Bon Vieux Temps 1890

Au Bon Vieux Temps (translated as “The Good Old Times” and pronounced Oh Bon Vyuh Ton) carries a name steeped in nostalgia and sentimentality. Created by Aimé Guerlain in 1890, the title immediately evokes a longing for a gentler, bygone age — a world of lace and candlelight, of family parlors filled with the soft hum of conversation and the comforting scent of potpourri. The French phrase itself suggests warmth, memory, and tenderness — a wistful nod to the elegance and refinement of the past. When Jacques Guerlain reformulated and reintroduced the perfume in 1901 as Bon Vieux Temps, it was more than a fragrance revival; it was an homage to the continuity of memory, to the enduring beauty of tradition carried forward into a modernizing century.

The time in which this fragrance was first created — the Belle Époque — was one of cultural flowering and romantic idealism. Society in France was basking in optimism, technological progress, and artistic innovation, yet also clinging to nostalgia for the old world. In fashion, corsets were softening, silks and chiffons fluttered in delicate pastel shades, and the ideal of femininity was poised between the ornamental and the natural. Bon Vieux Temps fit perfectly within this landscape: its name and character appealed to women who cherished refinement and emotional depth. To wear it was to embrace the poetry of memory — a reminder that beauty, like time, lingers softly and cannot be rushed.

To imagine its scent is to open a time capsule. Bon Vieux Temps is described as a deep, unisex oriental chypre infused with the rich florals and musks that were beloved in the late 19th century. The first impression is tender yet complex — a whisper of violet and rose, their sweetness tempered by the faint mustiness of aged petals, recalling the interiors of porcelain potpourri jars that once adorned the mantels of genteel homes. These jars were filled with fragrant mixtures of dried flowers, spices, and resins — rose, orange blossom, violet, cinnamon, cloves, lavender, orris root, and patchouli among them — each one steeped in the slow, natural oxidation that produced a warm, velvety muskiness. The perfume seems to echo this same blend of the floral and the resinous, soft and spicy, sweet and dry.

The oriental aspect reveals itself in the base — ambergris, with its subtle marine saltiness, and musk, both natural and deep, evoking intimacy and warmth. Together, they lend a soft animalic hum beneath the florals, giving the perfume a tactile sensuality that would have been considered daring for its time. The chypre structure — rich mosses and resins balanced by delicate citrus — grounds the sweetness, keeping it refined and aristocratic. Unlike the fresh floral colognes of earlier decades, Bon Vieux Temps is shadowed, mature, and resonant — a fragrance that breathes with life and memory rather than sparkle.

In scent, Bon Vieux Temps would have captured the essence of “the good old days”: the comforting familiarity of cherished surroundings, the perfume of pressed linens and antique wood, the mingling of powder and musk on lace gloves. For women of the time, it represented continuity — a romantic reflection of heritage in a fast-changing modern world. It would have been perceived as elegant, sentimental, and quietly sophisticated, embodying Guerlain’s gift for transforming memory into fragrance.

In the broader landscape of perfumery, Bon Vieux Temps stood apart for its emotional resonance. Where other houses were leaning toward sharper, more modern florals, Guerlain created a perfume of depth and reflection — one that seemed to exist outside of time. It was less about innovation than preservation, an olfactory keepsake of the 18th and 19th centuries’ most beloved scents — violets, roses, musk, ambergris — reimagined through Guerlain’s poetic hand. In essence, Bon Vieux Temps is the perfume of remembrance: an intimate, tender bridge between the past and present, wrapped in the soft veil of nostalgia.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Bon Vieux Temps is classified as a unisex, deep oriental chypre with violet, rose, (potpourri jar scents) and ambergris notes. It was described as very "musky".

• Top notes: bergamot, neroli, orange, orange blossom, verbena, bay leaves, geranium, linalool
• Middle notes: myrtle, lavender, carnation, clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, jasmine, violet, orris, ionone, rose, geraniol, heliotrope, piperonal
• Base notes: frankincense, ambergris, castoreum, civet, oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli, musk, musk ambrette, tonka bean, coumarin, vanilla, vanillin, benzoin, sandalwood, vetiver, Peru balsam

Scent Profile:

To smell Bon Vieux Temps is to step into another century — a place of velvet drapery, beeswax-polished furniture, and the lingering perfume of flowers pressed into linen drawers. The air feels warm and intimate, dense with the scent of time itself. As the perfume unfolds, each ingredient seems to breathe a story from an age when perfumery was a poetic craft, not just chemistry. Guerlain’s Bon Vieux Temps is classified as a deep oriental chypre, both floral and musky, a composition that bridges nature and nostalgia. It opens with a radiant glow of citrus and herbs, softens into a powdery floral heart filled with clove-studded blossoms and violet powder, and settles finally into a base that hums with resins, animalics, and moss — a sensuous memory of the “good old times.”

The top notes arrive like a morning light through lace curtains — fresh yet mellow. Bergamot lends its characteristic sparkle, bright and slightly bitter, filled with natural aroma molecules such as linalyl acetate and limonene, which provide its crisp, airy lift. This bergamot, most likely from Calabria in Italy — where the fruit achieves its most nuanced oil — carries a lively green edge that dances beautifully with neroli, the steam-distilled oil from bitter orange blossoms. Neroli, traditionally sourced from Tunisia, offers a honeyed, dew-laden floral quality; its main components, linalool and nerolidol, give it a luminous, almost silken character. Orange and orange blossom echo this bittersweet duality, marrying zest and petal, while verbena — with its fresh lemon-herb greenness — adds an almost soapy clarity. The inclusion of bay leaf and geranium gives the opening a faintly spicy, aromatic sharpness, recalling the herbal notes of traditional potpourri. Linalool, both naturally present and possibly enhanced synthetically, connects these disparate elements — floral, citrus, and herbal — with a smooth, unified brightness.

As the fragrance develops, the heart notes emerge, deepening and warming into a velvety, floral-spiced accord. Here, violet and orris form the soft powder at the perfume’s core. Orris, derived from the rhizome of the Florentine iris and aged for several years before extraction, contributes buttery, suede-like tones thanks to its high content of ionones and irones — molecules that create that hauntingly powdery, violet-like scent. Ionone, a key synthetic used by Guerlain since the late 19th century, enhances these natural materials, amplifying their nostalgic, dusty sweetness while lending extraordinary persistence. Jasmine and rose bloom gently in the background — the jasmine likely from Grasse or Egypt, warm and indolic, while the rose, perhaps Bulgarian, exudes full-bodied floral depth with hints of honey and green. Heliotrope introduces an almondy tenderness through its compound piperonal, while geraniol and linalool, present in geranium and rose, enhance their dewy brightness.

The spicy elements — clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg — infuse the heart with the warmth of old-world potpourri jars, where dried spices mingled with rose petals and resins. Clove contributes eugenol, the same natural molecule found in carnation oil, giving the fragrance its slightly medicinal, antique quality. Lavender and myrtle add herbal refinement, the former lending a clean, aromatic tone from its linalyl acetate, and the latter, a hint of camphor and sweetness. These spices not only scent the perfume but anchor its emotional tone: they are the ghosts of the home, the lingering perfume of wood cupboards and sachets of dried blooms stored in drawers.

The base of Bon Vieux Temps is where its soul resides — an opulent blend of natural resins, woods, animalic musks, and sweet balsams that speak to Guerlain’s mastery of sensuality. Frankincense and labdanum form the smoky, resinous backbone, both rich in ambered sweetness. Ambergris, once gathered from the sea, lends a salty, skin-like warmth — subtle and diffusive, making every note feel more alive. Patchouli from Indonesia contributes an earthy depth, while oakmoss adds its characteristic forest dampness, connecting the composition to the chypre family. Castoreum and civet bring the unmistakable animalic undertone that would have been highly prized in Aimé Guerlain’s time — civet adding a creamy, musky glow and castoreum a leathery, sensual purr.

The sweetness of the drydown is tempered by a delicate interplay of vanilla, benzoin, and Peru balsam, each adding its own warmth. Tonka bean, rich in coumarin, brings a dry almond-vanilla softness that merges seamlessly with vanillin — one of the earliest synthetic notes adopted by Guerlain. This combination of natural and synthetic vanillas became a Guerlain signature, giving longevity and richness to the blend. Sandalwood, likely from Mysore, provides the creamy, milky smoothness beneath it all, its santalols harmonizing the floral, resinous, and animalic elements into one continuous, golden hum. Vetiver adds a final trace of smoke and root — an anchor that keeps the perfume grounded in the earth even as its florals ascend toward memory.

To smell Bon Vieux Temps is to experience time suspended — a fragrance that feels like an heirloom. Its structure, a blend of nature’s deepest warmth and the early artistry of synthetics, bridges eras of perfumery. The floral-spiced heart, the musky, resinous base, and the luminous citrus top all coalesce into a scent that is less about perfume and more about remembrance — a whisper of powdered lace gloves, polished wood, and the faint, comforting perfume of the past that lingers softly on the air.

Bottles:

The perfume was originally housed in the Empire flacon (parfum) starting in 1902, the Louis XVI flacon (parfum) starting in 1902, and the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette) starting in 1923.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The historical record of Le Bon Vieux Temps paints a vivid portrait of its influence, both on the public imagination and the world of perfumery. In Country Life, 1902, a whiff of the fragrance in a foyer was described as recalling “a summer breeze laden with the hearts of flowers,” immediately evoking both freshness and elegance. The scent was already being recognized as “the latest pleasure of Madame la Mode,” signaling its fashionable appeal to Parisian society. 

Similarly, in Rapports (1902), the broader context of Guerlain’s oeuvre was emphasized. The article listed the House’s extensive repertoire dating back to 1788, including early masterpieces such as Excellence, Héliotrope Blanc, Impérial Russe, Pré d’Automne, Eau de Cologne Impériale, Poudre de Cypris, and Pâte Royale, alongside more recent creations like La Gavotte, Jardin de Mon Curé, Le Bon Vieux Temps, Eau de Cologne Hégémonienne, Extrait de Pot-Pourri aux Plantes Marines, and Voilà Pourquoi J’aimais Rosine. Each fragrance was displayed on consoles or pedestal tables—sometimes bare to emphasize the product itself—underscoring Guerlain’s unwavering dedication to luxury perfumery. The House’s pedigree was further solidified by awards from prestigious exhibitions: London, 1862; Paris, 1867 and 1889; Brussels, 1897; and jury distinctions in Antwerp, 1885, and Paris, 1878.

The personal resonance of Le Bon Vieux Temps is highlighted in accounts from La Semaine de l’Hippique (1903). In a playful exchange, two friends recognized one another’s use of the fragrance, affirming the perfume’s intimate role in social rituals and personal style. The dialogue reflects the way scents were not merely worn, but shared, discussed, and even subtly flaunted as a marker of taste and sophistication.

International perspectives reinforced this reputation. La Ilustración española y americana (1903) praised Guerlain’s ability to balance modern refinement with gentle subtlety, noting the fragrance’s rare quality of being both distinctive and smooth, traits that led to its widespread adoption among the Parisian aristocracy. Likewise, The Atlantic (1917) emphasized its nostalgic power, invoking memories of hoopskirts, potpourri jars, and the faded sweetness of grandmothers’ parlors. This connection between scent and memory helped solidify Le Bon Vieux Temps as more than a fragrance—it was a vessel of culture, history, and sentiment.

By 1937, the fragrance remained a central piece in Guerlain’s catalog, alongside notable creations such as Après l’Ondée, Sillage, Jicky, Chypre de Paris, and Tsao-Ko. Reviews in Stage reflect a continued recognition of its elegance and enduring charm, affirming its role as a defining scent of the House. Le Bon Vieux Temps, with its musky, potpourri-inspired warmth, floral nuances, and ambergris depth, exemplifies Guerlain’s artistry in blending historical richness with contemporary refinement—making it both timeless and immediately resonant to those who experienced it firsthand.

This collection of contemporary accounts demonstrates that Le Bon Vieux Temps was more than a fragrance; it was an emblem of Parisian sophistication, a bridge between eras, and a signature of the Guerlain legacy.

Bon Vieux Temps was discontinued, date unknown, it was still being sold in 1956.  

Un Air de Samsara 1995

Un Air de Samsara by Guerlain, launched in 1995, was conceived as a lighter, fresher interpretation of the brand’s iconic oriental fragrance Samsara. The name itself, Un Air de Samsara, is French, pronounced roughly as “Un Air duh Sam-sa-ra”. Literally, it translates to “A Breath of Samsara,” evoking the idea of a gentle, ephemeral, and spiritual essence — a nod to the original perfume while emphasizing a more airy, delicate sensibility. The word Samsara references the cyclical nature of life and rebirth in Sanskrit philosophy, giving the fragrance a sense of serenity, introspection, and subtle mysticism. Together, the name conjures images of floating incense, warm sunlight filtering through leafy canopies, and a fragrant breeze that is at once both grounding and ethereal.

The mid-1990s, when this perfume was launched, was a period marked by a fascination with lighter, fresher fragrances that could still carry depth and complexity. Women sought versatility — perfumes that felt intimate and wearable yet sophisticated enough to express personality. In fashion, there was a blend of minimalism and luxury: crisp tailoring, understated elegance, and subtle ornamentation. Un Air de Samsara fit seamlessly into this context, offering a scent that was refined without being overpowering, bridging the oriental richness of the 1980s with the emerging desire for airy, green, and slightly herbal florals.

Olfactorily, the perfume opens with a sparkling hesperidic top — bright bergamot and orange — mingling with refreshing mint and a soft whisper of green leaves, creating an invigorating yet delicate introduction. The heart reveals an assertive floral ensemble of narcissus, iris, and jasmine, each contributing its own character: narcissus brings a luminous, slightly honeyed depth; iris offers powdery elegance; and jasmine lends a soft, enveloping warmth. This combination creates a sophisticated floral complexity that feels alive and natural.

The base anchors the fragrance with the creamy, exotic richness of Mysore sandalwood, intertwined with Indian herbs that provide subtle spiciness and warmth. Despite the intensity of the oriental base, the composition remains surprisingly light and airy, maintaining a soft, enveloping quality that reflects the idea of a “breath” of fragrance. Compared to other perfumes of the 1990s, which were often heavier or dominated by overt florals or gourmand notes, Un Air de Samsara was distinctive for its harmonious balance of green freshness, florals, and oriental warmth — a modern, sophisticated reinterpretation of a classic.

Women of the mid-1990s would have perceived Un Air de Samsara as a refined, spiritual scent that could carry them through day and evening, evoking elegance and introspection without overwhelming their presence. The name, its airy execution, and its soft oriental-woody signature allowed it to stand apart from heavier perfumes while remaining unmistakably Guerlain — a subtle yet confident fragrance, blending tradition with contemporary sensibilities.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Un Air de Samsara is classified as a woody green oriental fragrance for women. It is begins with a hesperidic and minty top, accompanied by a whisper of soft, green leaves, followed by an assertive heart of narcissus, iris and jasmine, resting on a warm and intense base of Mysore sandalwood and exotic Indian herbs, but still extremely light and soft.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, mint, and leafy notes
• Middle notes: iris, narcissus and jasmine
• Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, Indian herbs

Scent Profile:

Un Air de Samsara by Guerlain is a masterful study in contrasts—light yet grounded, fresh yet deeply enveloping, a fragrance that invites you to experience each note as if you were encountering it in its natural environment. It opens with a hesperidic and minty top, immediately bright and sparkling. The bergamot, likely sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, carries a vibrant, slightly tart citrus character, richer and more nuanced than other bergamot varieties, thanks to its high content of limonene and linalyl acetate, which lend both freshness and a subtle sweetness. 

Lemon adds a sharp, clean facet, while the mint is crisp, aromatic, and slightly cooling, its menthol content providing an almost ethereal lift. Overlaying these is the delicate impression of green leafy notes, evoking dewy foliage on a spring morning, their fresh, slightly bitter greenness rounding out the citrus sparkle. Together, these elements create a top layer that is lively, invigorating, and immediately transparent—a whisper of nature captured in fragrance.

As the perfume evolves, the heart emerges with an assertive floral trio of iris, narcissus, and jasmine, each contributing a distinct facet. Iris, from the rhizomes of Florentine iris, brings a powdery, soft, and slightly earthy elegance, rich in irones that lend the characteristic velvety texture and subtle sweetness. Narcissus introduces a luminous, honeyed, and subtly narcotic floral aroma, resonant with compounds like jonon and narcissone that give depth and radiant warmth. 

Jasmine, likely Jasminum grandiflorum from Grasse, infuses a rich, creamy sweetness with indole-based animalic nuances, intensifying the florals and adding a sensual, living dimension. The combination of these florals feels expansive, yet the composition remains airy, with each note distinct but harmoniously interwoven, creating a heart that is soft, elegant, and softly intoxicating.

Finally, the base unfolds with the profound warmth of Mysore sandalwood and exotic Indian herbs. Mysore sandalwood is prized worldwide for its creamy, smooth, and slightly sweet woody aroma, which is richer and more resinous than other sandalwood varieties, owing to its high santalol content. This deep, enveloping wood forms a serene foundation for the subtle spiciness and aromatic complexity of the Indian herbs, which add a whisper of earthiness and subtle piquancy, enhancing the fragrance’s oriental depth. The base is warm and lingering, yet the perfume maintains its signature softness—there is no heaviness, no cloying richness; it is a gently enveloping trail that resonates with understated sophistication.

Experiencing Un Air de Samsara is like stepping into a sun-dappled garden in India, where sparkling citrus and cooling herbs mingle with radiant flowers, all resting on a bed of golden, creamy woods. Each ingredient contributes a story: the Italian bergamot for light and brilliance, the Grasse jasmine for sensuality, the Florentine iris for powdery elegance, and Mysore sandalwood for grounding, enduring warmth. The perfume’s lightness and balance, despite its oriental-woody foundation, make it a remarkable creation of the mid-1990s—feminine, graceful, and spiritually uplifting, a true testament to Jean-Paul Guerlain’s artistry.

Bottle:

Presented in a frosted elongated gold bottle designed after the Samsara flacon, by Robert Granai.

Ancillary Products:

In 1996, Guerlain expanded the sensory experience of Un Air de Samsara beyond the perfume itself by introducing a perfumed bath and shower gel alongside a non-alcoholic stick deodorant. These additions allowed admirers of the fragrance to envelop themselves more fully in its aromatic signature, creating a multi-dimensional ritual of scent. The bath and shower gel was designed to release the fragrance’s delicate, woody-green oriental notes in a gentle, creamy lather, letting the sparkling top notes of bergamot, lemon, and mint mingle with the soft floral heart of iris, narcissus, and jasmine as the warm base of Mysore sandalwood and Indian herbs gradually unfolded on the skin. In this form, the fragrance could be experienced intimately, blending with the natural moisture of the skin and leaving a subtle, lingering veil of scent.

Complementing this was the non-alcoholic stick deodorant, which translated the same aromatic sophistication into a practical, everyday product. Without the presence of alcohol, the formula offered a gentle, soothing application that minimized irritation while maintaining the integrity of the fragrance. The herbal and citrus facets—bergamot, lemon, mint—were accentuated here, evoking a sense of freshness throughout the day, while hints of the floral and woody base ensured the wearer remained enveloped in the luxurious, signature warmth of Samsara. Together, these bath and body products allowed women of the mid-1990s to experience Guerlain’s oriental-woody floral creation in new, sensorially immersive ways, bridging the elegance of perfumery with the intimacy of daily self-care rituals.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued (date unknown). Still being sold in 2003.

Rex c1890s

Rex by Guerlain, launched in the 1890s, bears a name of simple grandeur. The word Rex comes from Latin, pronounced “reks,” meaning “King.” It evokes an immediate sense of authority, dignity, and timeless power—a title reserved for sovereignty itself. In choosing this name, Guerlain aligned the fragrance with an image of regal elegance and refinement, echoing the noble air of Bouquet du Roi (“The King’s Bouquet”), a well-known 19th-century composition that had inspired it. The name Rex suggested not only prestige but also continuity with a grand perfumery tradition—one that paid homage to the splendor of monarchy, even in an age when empires and courts were beginning to fade into modernity.

The 1890s were a time of transition and fascination with luxury. France stood at the height of the Belle Époque—a period of prosperity, artistry, and cultural brilliance. Paris thrived as the capital of style and sophistication, with women’s fashion embracing sinuous lines, elaborate silks, and the soft shimmer of pearls. Perfume had become not just an accessory but an expression of identity and refinement, often associated with social rank and cultivated taste. Guerlain, already renowned for crafting elegant scents for royalty and the elite, captured this spirit with Rex: a fragrance that felt both classical and commanding, echoing an era’s reverence for tradition while embracing new advances in perfumery.

To women of the time, a perfume named Rex would have carried an aura of majesty and strength. It suggested poise, self-assurance, and noble bearing—qualities admired in the cultured Parisienne who moved easily between art salons and evening galas. Wearing Rex might have felt like donning an invisible crown: subtle yet powerful, refined yet unmistakably present. It embodied the ideal balance between feminine grace and stately grandeur, appealing to a generation of women who sought elegance rooted in history but alive with modern allure.

In scent, Rex would have interpreted its royal theme through a structure rich in florals, resins, and warm oriental notes. The fragrance likely opened with bright, dignified hesperidic tones—perhaps bergamot and neroli—ushering in a floral heart of rose, jasmine, and tuberose that spoke of opulence and purity. The base, characteristic of Guerlain’s early oriental style, would have woven together sandalwood, benzoin, vanilla, ambergris, and musk, creating a composition at once stately and sensual. Each note built upon the last, suggesting layers of velvet, polished wood, and the gleam of gold—a fragrance with both weight and light, presence and refinement.

Within the broader landscape of 1890s perfumery, Rex reflected the dominant trends of the time rather than defying them. The late 19th century favored floral-oriental blends—perfumes that fused the grace of traditional bouquets with the warmth of exotic resins and balsams. However, Guerlain’s artistry ensured that Rex stood apart through its impeccable balance and craftsmanship. Where others might have been heavy or overly ornate, Guerlain’s Rex conveyed nobility through harmony—a true olfactory portrait of a kingly presence, captured in scent.

Thus, Rex was more than a name; it was a declaration of mastery. In an era enamored with beauty, invention, and history, Guerlain’s Rex embodied the crown of perfumery itself—a fragrance that spoke softly of power, refinement, and the eternal allure of the royal ideal.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Rex is classified as a floral oriental fragrance.

• Top notes: bergamot, neroli, rose, bitter almond
• Middle notes: clove oil, rose attar, orris, jasmine, violet
• Base notes: tonka bean, coumarin, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver, Tonkin musk, civet, ambergris

Scent Profile:

Rex unfolds like the entrance of royalty—majestic, deliberate, and commanding attention without needing to raise its voice. The first impression is a sparkling overture of bergamot, a citrus essence sourced from the sun-drenched groves of Calabria, Italy. Its aroma is both lively and refined—less sharp than lemon, more floral than orange—imbued with natural compounds like linalyl acetate and limonene that lend brightness and effervescence. The bergamot’s green zest is softened by neroli, distilled from the blossoms of bitter orange trees in Tunisia, whose honeyed, slightly metallic character adds grace and sensuality. Together, they create the effect of golden light on polished marble—both fresh and dignified. 

Beneath this freshness lies a whisper of rose, delicate yet confident, its velvety petals providing a soft floral bridge to the richness to come. The faint bitterness of almond, extracted from crushed kernels, introduces an edible warmth—a mingling of heliotropin and benzaldehyde molecules that evoke marzipan and sweet tobacco, suggesting both refinement and indulgence.

As the fragrance deepens, the heart becomes a lush floral tapestry. Clove oil, sourced from Madagascar, lends a fiery undertone through its main component, eugenol—a molecule prized for its spicy warmth and faintly woody nuance. It gives the perfume a pulse, a regal rhythm. This spice is tempered by rose attar, a distilled blend of rose petals and sandalwood traditionally crafted in Kannauj, India. This rose is darker, more resinous than its European cousins—its damascenone and phenylethyl alcohol components exhale sweetness edged by faint smoke, as though the flower were glowing in candlelight. 

The luxurious orris root, aged for years before distillation, lends its powdered, violet-like scent—an aristocratic texture created by irones that mimic the tactile softness of silk. Jasmine rises next, warm and narcotic, its indolic molecules shimmering with sensuality, while violet lends a breath of coolness, its ionones diffusing a soft, dreamy haze over the florals. Together they form an opulent bouquet—radiant, romantic, and utterly regal.

As the perfume settles, the composition reveals its true majesty in the base—a velvety, golden warmth that defines the Guerlain signature. Tonka bean, sourced from Venezuela, provides a foundation rich in coumarin, the molecule that lends the scent of new-mown hay and almond-like sweetness. Here it is both comforting and sensual, merging with benzoin from Siam, whose vanillic, resinous aroma adds body and a faint incense-like glow. Natural vanilla, with its vanillin and piperonal components, weaves a creamy sweetness that softens the resins and links them to the soft, earthy tone of vetiver from Haiti, whose vetiverol content gives an elegant dryness—a reminder of aged woods and clean earth.

The animalic notes give Rex its soul. Tonkin musk, once derived from the glands of the musk deer, provided a deep, warm sensuality with nuances of leather and skin; modern recreations retain that enveloping softness through muscone and macrocyclic musks. Civet, historically from the Ethiopian civet cat, contributes a subtle feline warmth—an element that, when used in trace amounts, transforms a composition from beautiful to carnal. Finally, ambergris, weathered from the sea, imparts a salty-sweet radiance that diffuses the heavier notes, acting as a natural fixative and enhancing the longevity and projection of the fragrance.

The interplay between natural and synthetic elements in Rex creates a structure both classical and forward-looking. Early synthetic isolates such as coumarin and ionones would have amplified the natural facets—heightening the almond tone of tonka bean, the powder of orris, and the violet haze—creating a composition of impeccable balance. The result is an olfactory portrait of nobility: warm yet restrained, sensual yet dignified.

To smell Rex is to experience the grandeur of the late 19th century distilled into scent—a fragrance that speaks of candlelit salons, heavy brocade, and the soft gleam of gold. It is the scent of sovereignty rendered in perfume form—composed not merely to adorn, but to command admiration.

Bottles:

Rex was housed in the Carre flacon as seen below.

It was also available in stilboide fluide.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Rex was most likely discontinued within 1910-1920 period. It remains a rare Guerlain fragrance to be found today.

Guerlain Cosmetics & Skincare c1950s-1970s

Young Princess c1890

Young Princess by Guerlain, launched in 1890, exemplifies the house’s dedication to creating perfumes that conveyed elegance, refinement, and a sense of aristocratic grace. The name itself, Young Princess, evokes imagery of youth, delicacy, and a gentle sophistication—a fragrance designed to transport the wearer into a world of noble refinement. The term suggests innocence intertwined with poise, conjuring visions of a young woman draped in fine fabrics, attending a garden fête, or moving gracefully through the gilded salons of late 19th-century Europe. The name offered consumers not merely a scent but an aspirational identity: the ability to feel like royalty in everyday life, an intimate touch of elegance and dignity.

The fragrance emerged during the Belle Époque, a period celebrated for its artistic flourishing, technological innovation, and luxurious fashions. Women’s styles favored soft silhouettes, delicate laces, and floral embellishments, reflecting a culture that prized refinement and grace. In this context, Young Princess aligned perfectly with contemporary tastes, embodying the era’s preference for floral compositions that were sophisticated yet approachable. Guerlain’s creation would have appealed to women seeking to express subtle charm and cultivated taste, offering a soft, sweet, and polished floral character that was both elegant and memorable.

In comparison to other perfumes of the time, Young Princess balanced the prevailing trends with Guerlain’s signature artistry. While floral fragrances were common, this perfume distinguished itself through its particular refinement and harmonious layering of notes, producing a scent that was sophisticated but never overpowering. Its delicate sweetness and soft florals would have been immediately recognizable, leaving a gentle, lingering impression. Through Young Princess, Guerlain not only captured the essence of late 19th-century femininity but also demonstrated how fragrance could evoke emotion, identity, and aspiration, allowing every wearer to feel for a moment like royalty.

Parfums Préparés par Condensation:

Young Princess occupied a distinguished place within Guerlain’s Parfums Préparés par Condensation series, a carefully curated collection celebrated for its originality, refinement, and character. The series’ name, literally translating to “Perfumes Prepared by Condensation,” highlights the sophisticated steam distillation method used to extract aromatic compounds from raw materials—a technique widely employed in the 19th and early 20th centuries. In this process, flowers, plants, or other fragrant materials are exposed to steam, causing volatile aromatic compounds to vaporize. The resulting vapor is then cooled and condensed back into a concentrated liquid essence. Compared to simpler methods such as enfleurage or maceration, which rely on absorption or soaking, condensation captures a purer, more complete olfactory profile, preserving subtle nuances and enhancing the richness and longevity of the perfume. Guerlain’s inclusion of a fragrance in this series signaled not only technical mastery but also olfactory sophistication and artisanal quality.

Within the series, each perfume was designed to convey a distinct personality. Le Jardin de Mon Curé presented a flowery, persistent, and original character, while Belle France exuded a fresh and lingering aroma. Bouquet Mademoiselle offered a suave, gracefully charming scent, whereas Cyprisine was highly accentué, emphasizing certain notes for a striking impact. Dix Pétales de Roses was fresh, flowery, and smooth, while Gavotte and Grande Maréchale emphasized originality and enduring presence. Paris Nouveau and Rodomel highlighted sweet, flowery tones that were charming and lasting, and Tsao-Ko was particularly accentuated, making it immediately recognizable. Violette à Deux Sous offered a sweet, persistent, and suave impression. Young Princess, rounding out the series, conveyed a soft, sweet, and sophisticated character, offering a gentle elegance that harmonized with the series’ overall refinement.

The descriptors used across the series—accentué, suave, persistent, and original—carry precise meanings. An accentué fragrance emphasizes specific notes, rendering them prominent and memorable. A suave perfume is smooth and polished, harmoniously balanced to convey elegance without overwhelming the wearer. A persistent scent carries heavier, longer-lasting notes, leaving a subtle yet enduring trail, while an original fragrance introduces novelty, presenting inventive and unexpected olfactory experiences. Within this context, Young Princess exemplifies Guerlain’s ability to blend softness and sophistication, offering a delicate yet enduring expression of refinement and femininity that resonates with the technical artistry of the Parfums Préparés par Condensation series.

Fragrance Composition:

Young Princess would likely present as a gentle, refined floral bouquet with a soft, sweet elegance. Imagine lifting a delicate veil of scent: the first impression is airy and tender, with lightly sugared floral notes that are neither overwhelming nor sharp—almost like the scent of a freshly picked spring bouquet brushed with morning dew. There’s a subtle sweetness, evoking soft petals and perhaps a hint of powderiness, giving it a sophisticated, almost ethereal quality.

As the fragrance develops, you might detect layered floral nuances—rose, violet, and perhaps a whisper of jasmine—blended so harmoniously that no single note dominates, but each adds depth and dimension. This is a fragrance meant to feel gentle on the skin, softening into a lasting impression of warmth and elegance.

The base would bring subtle richness: faint musky and woody undertones that lend persistence, leaving a soft trail that’s graceful and understated. There’s no harshness here—rather, it’s a composed, elegant perfume that feels both comforting and refined, evoking the poise and gentle sophistication suggested by its name, Young Princess.

In short, it’s a tender, sweet, and floral fragrance, refined yet approachable, like the olfactory equivalent of a quiet, graceful presence in a room.

Bottles:

Young Princess was housed in the the flacon Plat, the perfume epitomized the grace, elegance, and aristocratic femininity associated with its time.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1894

Stilboide Fluide

Stilboide Fluide was one of Guerlain’s early grooming preparations — a refined liquid hair and beard groom that combined practicality with the elegance of perfumed luxury. Introduced as early as 1875, it exemplified Guerlain’s ability to merge beauty and function, transforming even the simplest of daily rituals into an act of sophistication. The name Stilboide itself evokes a sense of sheen and fluidity, fitting for a product designed to give hair a healthy luster and polished finish. In texture and purpose, it was much like brilliantine, a fashionable hair dressing of the late 19th century, prized by both men and women for its ability to add shine, tame frizz, and impart fragrance to the hair.

 "For that satiny sheen which a dash of brilliantine gives..."

The formula of Stilboide Fluide was primarily an alcohol-based mixture combined with perfume oils, which gave it both a grooming and an aromatic function. Over time, the alcohol component evaporates more readily than the dense aromatic oils — which explains why, in surviving vintage bottles today, the two substances have often separated, with the clear alcohol resting below and the golden oils rising to the top. When freshly mixed, however, the liquid would have glistened like pale amber and released a fine veil of scent when applied to the hair or beard.

1875 ad

What set Guerlain’s version apart was not merely its formulation but the fragrances that perfumed it. Depending on the period, Stilboide Fluide was offered in various Guerlain scents — a mark of refinement and personalization. Whether it was the powdery sweetness of Jicky, the floral charm of Eau de Cologne Impériale, or another house creation, each version subtly perfumed the wearer’s hair with a fragrance that lingered throughout the day. This scented grooming product reflected a time when perfuming one’s hair was considered an intimate form of luxury — an invisible halo of refinement and allure.

 The Delineator, 1935

"To pick up a wave with unexpected swiftness there are Yardley's Setting lotion, lavender-scented, has more convenient atomizer, and Guerlain's Water Lustrale. For that satiny sheen which a dash of brilliantine gives, I offer you Guerlain's Stilboide — perfumed with your favorite "Shalimar" - glamourous."

A fascinating detail from period advertisements notes that the product was made “to maintain the curl of the so-called English papillotes.” Papillotes referred to a hairstyling technique in which small strips of paper were used to wrap sections of hair before curling — a method popular among both fashionable women and men of the 19th century. When the hair was released, it formed soft, defined curls that framed the face. The Stilboide Fluide, lightly brushed through the hair or applied to fingertips before styling, would have enhanced the curl’s shape, adding gloss and flexibility while delicately scenting the coiffure.

In its time, Stilboide Fluide represented more than a grooming aid; it was an embodiment of the Victorian and Belle Époque ideals of personal elegance. The ritual of applying it — much like using pomade or scented powder — spoke to an age in which grooming was an art form and fragrance was part of one’s social presence. Today, surviving bottles of Stilboide Fluide not only reveal the technical sophistication of early Guerlain formulations but also tell a story of a bygone world where even hair care was touched by perfumed artistry.

Scents:

Some of the earliest Stilboide Fluid scents were:

• Bouquet
• Chypre
• Coq Gaulois
• Derniere Cri
• Des Pages
• Fragrans
• Heliotrope
• Jicky
• Makis
• New Mown Hay
• Pepita
• Rex
• Simplex
• Sornette
• Violette
• Ylang Ylang

Stilboide Fluide was available in the following scents:

• Apres L'Ondee
• A Travers Champs
• Bouquet de Faunes
• Candide Effluve
• Chypre
• Chypre 53
• Coque d'Or
• Cuir de Russie
• Dawamesk
• Djedi
• Eau de Cologne Extra Dry
• Fleur de Feu
• Fol Arome
• Guerlarose
• Guerlilas
• Guerlinade
• Hegemonienne
• Jasmin
• Jicky
• Kadine
• L'Heure Bleue
• Liu
• Mitsouko
• Muguet
• Parfum des Champs Elysees
• Rue de la Paix
• Shalimar
• Sillage
• Sous Le Vent
• Une Rose
• Vague Souvenir
• Vega
• Violette
• Vol de Nuit

 

 

Pola Negri, c1920s, holding a Guerlain atomizer (spraying her coiffure with brilliantine).

Bottles:

The Stilboide Bottle as we recognize it, was first used in 1922. It was created by Pochet et du Courval in two moulds:

• Mould #13349 = 10.6cm - 60cc
• Mould #13561 = 13.5cm - 120cc

These had various ground glass stoppers and were housed in the blue banded cardboard box.

Colored Crystal Quadrilobe Bottles 2016

In 2016, Guerlain unveiled an extraordinary celebration of color, craftsmanship, and sensory imagination with the Color Collection—a series of limited-edition crystal quadrilobe flacons that transformed the art of perfumery into a symphony of sight and scent. This collection was inspired by the principle of synesthesia, the fascinating idea that one sense can evoke another—where color can be “felt” as fragrance, and scent can be perceived as hue.

Each of the five bottles in the collection glows with a brilliant, jewel-like radiance, as if sculpted from pure light. The classic quadrilobe flacon, a shape synonymous with Guerlain’s prestige and first designed in 1908 by Baccarat, serves as the perfect canvas for this chromatic fantasy. Its symmetrical curves and precise geometry take on new vitality when rendered in vibrant crystalline colors—each tone seemingly pulsing with its own emotional resonance, from deep sapphire to emerald, ruby, amber, or amethyst. These colors were not chosen at random; rather, they evoke moods and sensations, suggesting how a color might “smell” if given fragrance—an interplay between sight and scent that feels almost musical in its harmony.

Each flacon is crowned with a silken barbichage tassel, meticulously crafted and hand-fluffed by the Dames de Table, the skilled artisans of Guerlain’s atelier. Their delicate work lends a final touch of elegance, as the tassel softly cascades over the bottle’s neck—its threads shimmering in the light, echoing the hues of the glass beneath. This detail, so simple yet so sumptuous, elevates each piece into an object of haute parfumerie art, where every gesture of craftsmanship matters.

Retailing for 650,00 €, these radiant bottles were conceived not only as collector’s treasures but as personal keepsakes—the kind of gift imbued with both meaning and beauty. Guerlain suggested that the bottles could also represent birthstones, their luminous colors aligning with the traditional gems of each month. Thus, the collection invites a more intimate gesture: a perfume bottle that is both a symbol of identity and affection, marking birthdays, anniversaries, or milestones with a deeply personal touch.

The Guerlain Color Collection stands as a testament to the Maison’s poetic vision—where artistry meets emotion, and color itself becomes perfume. Each flacon is more than a vessel; it is a prism through which the invisible art of fragrance is made visible, tangible, and endlessly radiant.

Spiritueuse Double Vanille:

Spiritueuse Double Vanille radiates from its bottle in a fiery shade reminiscent of a Padparadscha sapphire—that rare and mesmerizing gem that glows somewhere between rose and golden sunset. The color captures the duality of the fragrance itself: warm yet radiant, exotic yet comforting. The Padparadscha sapphire, along with its blue counterpart, is associated with the month of September and the zodiac sign Taurus, both linked to steadfast beauty and sensual groundedness. In the world of gemstones, the sapphire also symbolizes fidelity and wisdom, making it the traditional gift for a 65th wedding anniversary—a fitting parallel to the enduring richness and depth of this composition.

 

Classified as an oriental fragrance for women, Spiritueuse Double Vanille opens in a blaze of warmth and mystery. The first breath reveals a glimmer of pink pepper, adding a delicate sparkle that tingles the senses, immediately followed by the golden luminosity of bergamot. This citrus note—sourced from Calabria—is prized for its balance of brightness and softness, imparting a refined freshness that tempers the sweetness to come. Incense curls through these top notes, its resinous smoke adding intrigue and a meditative hush, as though the perfume’s story begins at dusk, when the air turns honeyed and still.

At its heart, the fragrance blossoms into a sensual harmony of jasmine, Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, cedar, and spices. The jasmine, lush and narcotic, lends a solar creaminess that feels both exotic and serene. From Bulgaria, the rose introduces a rich, honeyed depth—a fragrance known for its high content of natural phenylethyl alcohol, giving it its velvety and long-lasting quality. Ylang-ylang, a tropical flower from the Comoros Islands, contributes its unmistakable buttery sweetness, laced with banana and clove-like undertones. The spices weave through this floral heart like threads of gold—perhaps cardamom, clove, or even a whisper of cinnamon—adding warmth and a gentle exoticism. Meanwhile, the cedarwood provides structure: dry, noble, and faintly smoky, grounding the bouquet with a touch of the forest.

As the scent deepens, Spiritueuse Double Vanille unveils its sumptuous base—an opulent embrace of amber, benzoin, vanilla, and incense. The vanilla here is not a mere sweet note but a complex symphony of vanillin, coumarin, and trace resins, all drawn from the sun-cured pods of Madagascar. Its aroma is simultaneously creamy, smoky, and woody, enriched by the benzoin resin from Laos, which adds a caramel-like smoothness. Amber glows like candlelight, radiating a sweet resinous warmth, while the lingering incense brings continuity from top to base—its sacred, balsamic smoke giving the fragrance a spiritual gravitas.

In Spiritueuse Double Vanille, natural and synthetic elements intertwine to perfection: the real vanilla absolute is bolstered by modern vanillin molecules that amplify its richness and extend its presence, ensuring it smolders beautifully on the skin for hours. The result is a scent that feels like liquid light—an ambered flame encased in a gemstone bottle. Sensual, comforting, and timeless, it captures the essence of warmth itself, glowing with the quiet luxury and eternal beauty of its sapphire muse.

Santal Royal:

Santal Royal is presented in a bottle of deep emerald green, a hue that seems to shimmer with mystery and quiet power. The color evokes both nature’s lush abundance and the regal elegance long associated with precious gemstones. The emerald, prized since antiquity, is the birthstone for May, symbolizing renewal, vitality, and eternal love. It also corresponds to the zodiac sign Cancer, a sign known for its emotional depth and sensitivity—qualities that echo through this perfume’s soulful, enveloping character. Traditionally, the emerald is given to commemorate a 20th wedding anniversary, representing a mature, enduring bond—one that mirrors the fragrance’s luxurious depth and lasting resonance.

 

Classified as a leathery oriental fragrance, Santal Royal opens with a radiant interplay of neroli and cinnamon. The neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, lends a honeyed luminosity with hints of green and floral brightness—a nod to Mediterranean warmth and sunlight. Cinnamon follows with its rich, spicy sweetness, adding a flicker of warmth that immediately conjures opulence and sensuality. Together, these top notes create a golden prelude that glows against the darker backdrop to come.

At the heart of the composition lies rose and sandalwood, the pairing that defines the fragrance’s noble character. The rose is lush and velvety—both romantic and majestic—while the sandalwood, revered for centuries as a sacred wood, offers creamy, resinous smoothness. The sandalwood’s origin in this blend is particularly significant: Indian sandalwood is among the most prized varieties, known for its sweet, warm, and milky aroma, which is both grounding and transcendent. Its essential oil contains natural molecules like santalol, which provide lasting tenacity and a sense of meditative calm. Here, sandalwood’s natural richness is deepened by synthetic boosters that extend its longevity, ensuring that its golden warmth lingers like polished silk on the skin.

As the scent settles, Santal Royal reveals its profound base of leather, agarwood (oud), amber, and musk—a foundation that feels simultaneously regal and intimate. The leather accord adds a supple, tactile sensuality, like the soft inside of a glove, while the oud brings smoky, resinous shadows—earthy and spiritual, as if whispering ancient secrets. Amber infuses a glowing, honeyed depth, its labdanum-derived warmth enhancing the oriental opulence. Finally, musk envelops the composition in a gentle, skin-like softness, binding the elements together into a seamless, lingering caress.

Encased in its emerald-green flacon, Santal Royal radiates an aura of timeless grandeur. It is a perfume of contrasts—light and shadow, silk and smoke—reflecting the symbolic qualities of its gemstone counterpart: renewal, harmony, and enduring strength. Much like the emerald itself, this fragrance embodies a beauty that feels both eternal and alive, serene yet irresistibly magnetic.

L'Heure de Nuit:

L’Heure de Nuit glows with quiet sophistication, dressed in the tranquil hue of a Kashmir sapphire—a gemstone prized for its velvety, cornflower-blue depth and its ability to capture light as if from within. This particular sapphire, celebrated for its rarity and serene radiance, symbolizes purity, wisdom, and inner peace. Associated with the month of September and the zodiac sign Taurus, the sapphire also holds deep sentimental significance as the traditional 45th wedding anniversary stone—a symbol of enduring devotion and steadfast love. Its soft blue tone perfectly reflects the fragrance’s spirit: elegant, introspective, and luminous, much like the lingering light of dusk that inspired its name, “The Hour of Night.”

 

Classified as a floral woody musk, L’Heure de Nuit is a modern reverie born from the heart of Guerlain’s heritage. It reimagines the tender poetry of L’Heure Bleue—the fragrance of twilight—with a fresher, more diaphanous touch, balancing the nostalgic softness of the past with a radiant contemporary clarity. The perfume opens with the delicate, powdery caress of heliotrope, a flower whose scent evokes almond, vanilla, and warm sunlight. Its aroma comes from natural molecules such as heliotropin (piperonal), which lend a sweet, almond-like warmth with a faint gourmand nuance—nostalgic and comforting, like the memory of skin warmed by the fading sun.

In the heart of the composition, a luminous bouquet unfolds—orange blossom, jasmine, rose, and iris—each petal contributing its own shade of emotion. Orange blossom, sourced from the bitter orange trees of North Africa, adds a radiant freshness with honeyed undertones, its key molecule linalool lending a sense of purity and innocence. Jasmine, rich in indole and benzyl acetate, brings both sensuality and creaminess—its scent like silk brushing against bare skin. The rose, likely Bulgarian or Turkish, offers a velvety warmth and a trace of fruitiness, grounding the brightness with romance. Finally, iris, one of perfumery’s most prized and time-consuming ingredients, adds an elegant, powdery depth. Derived from the aged rhizomes of the Iris pallida of Tuscany, it imparts a buttery, cool, almost silken texture—melancholy yet luminous, the scent of moonlight itself.

As the fragrance settles, the base reveals a soft and intimate harmony of white musk and sandalwood. The musks, both natural and synthetic, wrap the skin in a second-skin warmth—clean yet sensual, like the whisper of silk sheets or the trace of perfume caught in hair. The sandalwood, likely from New Caledonia, offers a creamy, milky smoothness with faint smoky facets due to its naturally occurring santalol compounds. It provides a serene and grounding finish, anchoring the delicate florals without overpowering them.

The result is a fragrance that feels like twilight distilled—the quiet moment between day and night when the air turns soft and introspective. L’Heure de Nuit is both nostalgic and modern, a tender ode to Guerlain’s romantic past reimagined for the contemporary woman. Its sapphire-toned bottle and its scent together evoke serenity, mystery, and the gentle promise of nightfall—an eternal hour suspended between light and shadow.

 

 

Oriental Brulant:

Oriental Brûlant glows with a fiery opulence, its crystal flacon capturing the deep, smoldering hue of a Burmese pigeon blood ruby—a gemstone so prized for its saturated crimson color that it has become the very emblem of passion and vitality. This gemstone, representing the month of July and the Capricorn zodiac sign, also marks the 40th wedding anniversary, symbolizing enduring love and devotion forged in fire. Just as the ruby’s glow seems to contain an inner flame, so too does Oriental Brûlant radiate warmth and sensuality—a fragrance that feels at once glowing and comforting, mysterious and magnetic.

 

Classified as an oriental fragrance for women, Oriental Brûlant is a study in contrasts: smooth and creamy, yet richly spiced; luminous at first, then deep and enveloping. The scent opens with the sun-drenched brightness of tangerine, its effervescent top note sparkling with the freshness of ripe fruit. Italian tangerines, renowned for their balance of sweetness and zest, lend the fragrance a playful, luminous beginning. The essential oil contains limonene and gamma-terpinene, aroma molecules that create the impression of juiciness and vibrancy—an inviting first breath that evokes the heat of an orange grove under a Mediterranean sun.

As the perfume begins to warm on the skin, the heart reveals the soft indulgence of almond—creamy, slightly bitter, and mouthwatering. The note recalls both marzipan and toasted nuts, offering a velvety gourmand texture that bridges citrus brightness and oriental depth. Natural almond oil contains benzaldehyde, which gives it that characteristic sweet, nutty scent, while synthetic almond accords enhance its smoothness and longevity. This balance of natural and crafted elements gives the fragrance its tender, edible warmth—like the scent of a pastry just out of the oven mingling with the faint trace of skin.

The base unfolds with the full, voluptuous richness typical of Guerlain’s oriental creations. Tonka bean, a classic house signature, provides a creamy and balsamic depth. Harvested from the seeds of the Dipteryx odorata tree native to Venezuela and Brazil, tonka beans are rich in coumarin, a molecule that exudes a warm, slightly hay-like sweetness reminiscent of vanilla and almonds. Paired with vanilla, the effect becomes irresistibly soft and enveloping—silken, with a faint smokiness that feels like embers glowing at the base of the perfume. The styrax resin completes the composition with its resinous, slightly leathery undertone. Extracted from the bark of Liquidambar orientalis, styrax adds a subtle note of caramelized smoke, deepening the fragrance and lending it an almost antique sensuality.

Together, these ingredients weave a symphony of warmth and sensual harmony. Oriental Brûlant feels like liquid fire—its opening bright as a flame, its heart tender as its embers, and its base glowing with quiet intensity. The ruby-red bottle mirrors the fragrance perfectly: both are timeless emblems of passion and strength, radiating beauty born from heat and transformation. To wear it is to be enveloped in the luxurious glow of Guerlain’s oriental heritage—a fragrance that smolders rather than shouts, leaving behind a trail as rich and enduring as the gemstone that inspired it.

 

  

L’Eau de Parfum du 68:

L’Eau de Parfum du 68 is a fragrance that radiates with the quiet duality of light and shadow, of warmth and coolness, just like the gemstone that inspires its bottle — the ametrine, a natural fusion of amethyst and citrine. The flacon itself glows in bicolor crystal, merging purple and golden hues that evoke both spiritual calm and solar radiance. Ametrine’s unusual blend of violet and amber tones mirrors the essence of the perfume within: a composition that seamlessly balances floral grace, spicy depth, and woody warmth. Though ametrine has no official month, its connection to both February’s amethyst and November’s citrine imbues it with symbolic richness — representing harmony, clarity, and transformation. Appropriately, it could mark either the 6th or 13th wedding anniversaries, occasions that celebrate enduring balance between passion and serenity.

 

Classified as a woody spicy floral fragrance, L’Eau de Parfum du 68 feels both timeless and modern, like an olfactory reflection of Guerlain’s storied address at 68, Champs-Élysées — a house of perfume and artistry. The fragrance opens with a warm yet radiant introduction of immortelle and rose, two ingredients that perfectly embody contrast. The immortelle, or everlasting flower, comes from the Mediterranean coast and is known for its honeyed, herbal scent with nuances of maple syrup and dried straw. Its aroma, rich in neryl acetate and italidione, imparts a golden warmth that glows from the first inhalation. The rose, likely Bulgarian or Turkish, provides a counterpoint — fresh, velvety, and luminous. Its natural geraniol and citronellol molecules lend the opening a floral brightness that tempers immortelle’s sun-drenched sweetness, much like the interplay between the purple and gold hues of the ametrine.

The heart of the fragrance deepens into a spiritual and resinous warmth. Incense rises at the center, its smoky tendrils creating an almost meditative stillness. The resins used in perfumery, such as olibanum, contain alpha-pinene and limonene, contributing a balsamic freshness that balances the density of the smoke. Alongside it, heliotrope unfurls its powdery, almond-like scent — soft, nostalgic, and luminous. The benzoin, sourced from Siam or Laos, brings a balsamic sweetness reminiscent of vanilla and amber, rich in benzoic acid and vanillin compounds that lend the composition both warmth and comfort. A dusting of spices, perhaps clove, cinnamon, or pink pepper, adds vibrancy and keeps the heart alive with quiet movement, like sunlight flickering through stained glass.

The dry down reveals the refined craftsmanship that defines the Guerlinade — the signature base accord that forms the soul of many Guerlain creations. This blend of tonka bean, vanilla, iris, and woods gives L’Eau de Parfum du 68 its silken texture and lingering sensuality. The woods and leather notes add structure and sophistication, grounding the composition with an earthy richness. Tonka bean, harvested in South America, contributes its creamy warmth through its high coumarin content, which blends beautifully with the balsamic benzoin and the faint sweetness of heliotrope. The result is an enveloping trail that feels simultaneously classic and modern — a luxurious echo of Guerlain’s heritage infused with quiet sensuality.

Wearing L’Eau de Parfum du 68 is like stepping into the gilded twilight of the Champs-Élysées boutique itself — where crystal refracts amber light and the air hums with the faint trace of incense and powdered flowers. It is both radiant and introspective, an exquisite harmony of opposing forces that captures the dual nature of ametrine: warmth and calm, sun and shadow, body and spirit intertwined in fragrant alchemy.