Le Sacre des Orientaux Presentation 2005

The very rare “Le Sacre des Orientaux”—literally translated as “The Coronation of the Orientals”—is a sublime celebration of Guerlain’s most iconic oriental fragrances, released in 2005 as an exclusive limited edition. Only 69 sets were ever created, making this a true collector’s treasure. Each set contained three 20 ml perfume extracts: Shalimar, L’Heure Bleue, and Samsara, all housed in Romesnil crystal quadrilobe flacons. The stoppers were adorned with genuine Swarovski crystals, carefully threaded through the traditional baudruchage seal, a delicate wrapping reminiscent of Guerlain’s historic artisanal finishing techniques.

The attention to detail extended beyond the flacons themselves: each perfume was distinguished by a colored baudruchage cord corresponding to its olfactory identity. Samsara was tied with red, Shalimar with navy blue, and L’Heure Bleue with royal blue, reflecting the traditional colors historically associated with each fragrance. This subtle yet meaningful choice elevated the set from a display of perfumes to a ceremonial presentation of artistry and heritage.

The set invites a fully immersive experience. L’Heure Bleue enchants with its refined, sophisticated charm, captivating the senses with delicate floral and powdery notes. Shalimar wraps the wearer in rich, sensual warmth, its vanilla-laden heart evoking deep oriental allure. Samsara offers a smooth, elegant embrace, its sandalwood and floral composition a testament to Guerlain’s mastery of oriental perfumery. Together, these fragrances in the Le Sacre des Orientaux set celebrate the sophistication, sensuality, and elegance that define Guerlain’s legendary orient-inspired creations.

Aqua Allegoria Ylang & Vanille c1999

Aqua Allegoria Ylang & Vanille was launched in 1999 as part of Guerlain’s innovative Aqua Allegoria collection, a series designed to capture the freshness and vitality of nature through luminous, single-themed fragrances. The name, pronounced as "ee-LAHNG ay vah-NEEL", translates directly from French as “Ylang & Vanilla”. It evokes images of sun-drenched tropical islands, flowering ylang-ylang trees, and the warm, comforting richness of vanilla beans. The name itself suggests sensuality, brightness, and approachable luxury—a combination of playful sweetness and elegant floral charm.

The late 1990s marked a period of experimentation and reinvention in perfumery. Fragrance trends were shifting toward lighter, fresher compositions that could be worn daily, alongside more gourmand and floral-oriented scents. Consumers sought perfumes that evoked both sophistication and vitality, fragrances that were immediately pleasurable yet subtly complex. In this context, a perfume named Ylang & Vanille would have appealed to women looking for a scent that was simultaneously exotic and comforting, combining tropical floral elegance with the soft sweetness of vanilla. The name conjures a sensory image of golden sunlight illuminating lush blossoms, offering a fragrant escape from the everyday into warmth, luxury, and serenity.

Olfactorily, Ylang & Vanille is classified as a floral fragrance for women, with the tropical creaminess of ylang-ylang at its heart. The ylang-ylang evokes a rich, velvety floral aroma that is simultaneously sweet, exotic, and slightly fruity, reminiscent of sun-warmed petals releasing their fragrance in a tropical garden. Vanilla, with its warm, soft, and slightly powdery sweetness, complements the ylang-ylang, adding a sensual, comforting depth that rounds out the perfume. Together, the two ingredients create a harmonious duet: the ylang-ylang brings brightness and floral vibrancy, while vanilla imparts warmth and lasting appeal.

In the context of the fragrance market at the time, Ylang & Vanille was both in line with trends and distinctive within them. While florals and gourmand notes were popular, Guerlain’s skill lay in crafting a scent that felt both natural and radiant, maintaining the freshness characteristic of the Aqua Allegoria line while presenting a smooth, enveloping floral gourmand blend. The perfume’s approachable elegance, combined with its sunny, tropical character, made it appealing to women seeking a fragrance that was fresh, joyful, and subtly exotic—an olfactory embodiment of modern sophistication balanced with timeless luxury.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Aqua Allegoria Ylang & Vanille is classified as a floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: carnation and ylang ylang
• Middle notes: jasmine, iris
• Base notes: vanilla

Scent Profile:

The first impression of Aqua Allegoria Ylang & Vanille is immediately luminous and floral. Carnation greets the senses with its warm, slightly spicy sweetness, a peppery-floral nuance that is both invigorating and elegant. It carries a subtle clove-like quality, often enhanced by eugenol, an aroma chemical that magnifies the natural spiciness of the flower, giving the fragrance a sophisticated, almost vintage floral edge. Alongside it, ylang-ylang unfurls its exotic, tropical bouquet. Sourced traditionally from Madagascar, Comoros, or the islands of the Indian Ocean, ylang-ylang is renowned for its creamy, heady floral aroma with a slightly fruity undertone—more complex and exotic than ylang-ylang from other regions. Its aroma is both sensual and uplifting, immediately evoking sun-drenched tropical gardens and the soft, warm air of a distant island paradise. The combination of carnation and ylang-ylang creates a top note that is simultaneously bright, sweet, and warmly floral, setting the stage for a rich, inviting journey.

In the heart of the fragrance, jasmine emerges with its radiant, luminous floral character. Likely sourced from Grasse, the “perfume capital of the world,” this jasmine possesses a clean, crystalline quality with slightly indolic depth, evoking the lush, opulent scent of night-blooming flowers. Its richness is balanced with iris, which contributes a soft, powdery, and slightly woody elegance. The iris—often derived from the Italian or French varieties of orris root—adds a velvety, almost ethereal texture to the heart, enhancing the floral interplay with a refined, powdery sophistication. Together, jasmine and iris deepen the floral bouquet, making it opulent yet harmonious, luxurious but not overwhelming.

Finally, the base note of vanilla unfurls like a warm, comforting embrace. Likely Madagascan in origin, the vanilla is creamy, sweet, and subtly balsamic, offering depth and longevity to the fragrance. Its familiar gourmand warmth contrasts beautifully with the floral brightness above, lingering softly on the skin. Synthetic elements, such as vanillin or ethyl vanillin, may be subtly blended to amplify the natural vanilla’s creaminess and ensure that the fragrance retains its sweet, cozy trail without becoming cloying. The overall effect is a seamless fusion: the sparkling, exotic florals of the top and middle notes gradually settle into a soft, enveloping warmth that feels intimate and inviting.

Aqua Allegoria Ylang & Vanille thus captures the essence of a sunlit tropical garden: the spicy brightness of carnation, the lush exoticism of ylang-ylang, the radiant elegance of jasmine, the powdery sophistication of iris, and the enveloping sweetness of vanilla. Each note is distinct yet harmoniously blended, creating a floral fragrance that is both radiant and comforting, playful yet elegant—a perfect reflection of Guerlain’s artistry in the Aqua Allegoria collection.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued around 2004.

Neroli Outrenoir c2016

Neroli Outrenoir was launched in 2016 as part of Guerlain’s L’Art & la Matière line, a collection devoted to rare, sophisticated fragrances crafted for enthusiasts of noble materials and refined composition. The name, pronounced as "neh-ROH-lee oot-reh-NWAR", combines “Neroli,” the luminous, sparkling essence derived from bitter orange blossoms, with “Outrenoir,” meaning “beyond black” in French. The pairing evokes a striking contrast: the bright, sunlit freshness of neroli against the dark, mysterious depths of shadowy woods and smoky resins. The words together conjure images of glowing citrus groves at twilight, where light and darkness intertwine, and evoke emotions of intrigue, elegance, and refined sensuality.

The mid-2010s, when the perfume was launched, were marked by a growing appreciation for unique, niche fragrances that blended natural materials with subtle modernity. Consumers sought perfumes that were both personal statements and experiences—luxurious, complex, and contemplative. A fragrance named Neroli Outrenoir would have appealed to women and men interested in a sophisticated duality: the brightness of citrus and flowers tempered by enigmatic, smoky undertones. The name itself signals a sensory journey, promising both clarity and mystery, inviting the wearer to explore contrasts and nuances within a single scent.

Olfactorily, Neroli Outrenoir is classified as a citrus floral woody fragrance. At the top, neroli radiates with sparkling, luminous brilliance, delivering the fresh, slightly green and zesty sweetness characteristic of bitter orange blossoms. This is complemented by bergamot, enhancing the citrus lift with a refined, sun-kissed sharpness, while petitgrain absolute adds a woody, aromatic depth drawn from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree. In the heart, the soft floral facets of orange blossom bloom, bridging the bright opening with the shadowy base.

The base unfolds with profound, mysterious notes. Smoky tea introduces a slightly bitter, dry facet, adding subtle tension to the fragrance, while myrrh contributes warm, resinous richness that deepens the composition. Dark woods provide grounding, earthy undertones, giving the perfume structure and a lingering presence. The interplay of light and shadow—the sparkling neroli against smoky and resinous elements—creates an olfactory chiaroscuro, reflecting the conceptual contrast implied by its name.

In the context of 2016, Neroli Outrenoir was distinctive yet aligned with contemporary perfumery trends. Niche and luxury fragrances increasingly explored contrasts—bright versus dark, natural versus abstract—allowing perfumers like Thierry Wasser to create multi-dimensional experiences. Unlike more conventional citrus-floral perfumes, Neroli Outrenoir embraces duality, presenting a luminous, floral opening that gradually reveals shadowy, enigmatic depth, making it both modern and timeless, approachable yet intriguingly complex.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Neroli Outrenoir is classified as a citrus floral woody fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: petitgrain, bergamot
• Middle notes: neroli, smoky black tea, orange blossom
• Base notes: myrrh, ambrette seeds, moss

Scent Profile:

Upon the first encounter, Neroli Outrenoir opens with the crisp, luminous brightness of petitgrain and bergamot. The petitgrain, distilled from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, offers a refined, slightly green-woody freshness with subtle floral nuances, more delicate and aromatic than the fruitier essence of the orange blossom itself. Bergamot, sourced from Calabria in southern Italy—the region renowned for producing the most balanced and nuanced bergamot in the world—adds a sparkling, zesty lift, its citrus radiance enriched by a natural bitterness that keeps the opening from being overtly sweet. Together, these top notes evoke a sunlit Mediterranean grove, where green leaves glisten alongside ripening fruit, creating a crisp, invigorating freshness that is immediately uplifting.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals a complex interplay of luminous florals and subtle smoky depth. Neroli, derived from the delicate blossoms of the bitter orange tree, fills the senses with a radiant, sweet-floral aroma tinged with citrus brightness and a honeyed nuance. This is layered with orange blossom, adding a softer, creamier floral dimension, enhancing the perfume’s sensuality and bridging the brightness of the top notes with the emerging depth of the base. Smoky black tea adds an unexpected, intriguing facet: a slightly bitter, dry, and aromatic note that introduces shadow and complexity, providing a dark contrast to the luminous florals. Together, the heart conveys both elegance and mystery, as if sunlight filters through a grove at twilight, illuminating blossoms while leaving shadows in their wake.

The base of Neroli Outrenoir grounds the fragrance in rich, resinous warmth and subtle earthy sensuality. Myrrh offers a balsamic, resinous richness with a faintly medicinal, warm sweetness, evoking sacred rituals and depth. Ambrette seeds, derived from Hibiscus abelmoschus primarily grown in India, contribute a musky, slightly animalic softness, providing warmth and a subtle sensuality that lingers on the skin. Finally, moss imparts an earthy, slightly green and damp nuance, reminiscent of forest floors and shaded groves, balancing the brightness of the citrus and florals with natural, grounding tones. Together, these base notes create a lingering trail of refined depth, harmonizing the sparkling citrus, radiant florals, and smoky heart into a seamless, evocative composition.

Neroli Outrenoir is a masterful citrus floral woody fragrance, where contrasts are carefully orchestrated: the crisp freshness of petitgrain and bergamot meets the radiant, sunlit florals of neroli and orange blossom, while smoky black tea and resinous myrrh add an enigmatic depth, and ambrette and moss provide a soft, grounding warmth. Each note is distinct yet harmoniously blended, creating a fragrance that is simultaneously luminous, mysterious, and sophisticated—an olfactory exploration of light and shadow, refinement and intrigue, perfectly embodying Guerlain’s L’Art & la Matière vision.

Bottle:

The fragrance is housed in a bottle of strikingly clean, contemporary lines, a design that exudes understated elegance and modern sophistication. Along the edge, a golden metal plate adds a touch of precious refinement, reminiscent of a gilded page in a luxurious book, subtly elevating the visual experience and evoking the sense of a treasured keepsake. The bottle is paired with a chic, vintage-inspired atomizer, thoughtfully designed with an ON/OFF mechanism, allowing the perfume to be transported safely and applied with ease, blending practicality with refinement.

Adding to the luxurious presentation, the bottle is nestled within a casket finished in amethyst “leather touch”, a tactile and visually appealing case that emphasizes exclusivity and elegance. The casket itself is versatile, allowing the owner to adapt or change the inner jewelry compartment at will, creating a sense of personalization and interaction with the perfume’s presentation. Together, these details transform the bottle into more than just a container—it becomes a sophisticated objet d’art, marrying contemporary aesthetics with Guerlain’s tradition of exquisite craftsmanship and thoughtful design.

Fate of the Fragrance:

This particular version has since been discontinued, having been released shortly after the accompanying atomizer-equipped bottle was withdrawn from the market. The atomizer, though visually chic and vintage-inspired, faced practical challenges: issues with evaporation and inconsistent spraying rendered it less functional than intended. Despite its brief availability, the combination of the elegant bottle and the luxurious casket remains a testament to Guerlain’s commitment to aesthetic refinement and innovative design, highlighting the brand’s attention to both beauty and experiential presentation—even when practical limitations necessitated the discontinuation of certain elements.

Bouquet de Lord Seymour c1840

Bouquet de Lord Seymour by Guerlain, launched around 1840 and also known simply as Bouquet Seymour, was one of the earliest perfumes created by Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain. The name itself was chosen in homage to Henry de Seymour (1805–1859), a wealthy English aristocrat and descendant of the Dukes of Somerset. A flamboyant figure in Parisian society, Seymour founded the prestigious Jockey Club of Paris, a gathering place for noblemen and horse enthusiasts. Guerlain’s decision to dedicate a fragrance to such a man was no coincidence—it reflected both the refined elegance and daring modernity that defined the brand from its earliest days.

The name Bouquet de Lord Seymour is French and translates literally to “Lord Seymour’s Bouquet.” The title evokes the image of a distinguished gentleman surrounded by polished splendor—the rustle of fine fabrics, the gleam of carriage lamps along the Boulevard des Italiens, and the faint echo of laughter from a salon filled with English and French nobility. The word bouquet in perfumery was often used to signify an elegant composition of blended floral and herbal essences, suggesting sophistication rather than a single flower’s simplicity.

The early 19th century, when this fragrance was created, was a period of renewal and cosmopolitan taste in Paris. The Bourbon Restoration had recently given way to the July Monarchy, and Paris was once again alive with a mingling of aristocratic refinement and bourgeois ambition. English culture exerted a strong influence over French fashion—London tailoring, equestrian sports, and Anglo-French salons were the height of chic. Within this atmosphere, Guerlain’s Bouquet de Lord Seymour would have embodied both gentlemanly elegance and continental grace, appealing equally to refined men and women of society.

Women of the time, enamored with the glamour of English nobility, would have viewed a perfume named after Lord Seymour as a mark of fashionable worldliness. It suggested aristocratic charm, a touch of reckless adventure, and refined sensuality—qualities that fit perfectly with the romantic spirit of the early Victorian age. To wear it was to adorn oneself with the invisible signature of English sophistication filtered through French artistry.

Interpreted in scent, Bouquet de Lord Seymour would likely have drawn inspiration from the popular “Jockey Club” compositions of the day, which blended aromatic herbs, citrus, and floral notes with leather and musky undertones. These fragrances were created to evoke the gentleman’s milieu—polished riding boots, freshly cut hay, and fine grooming oils—tempered with the soft sweetness of orange blossom or rose to make them approachable and refined. Guerlain, with his gift for harmony and balance, would have elevated this idea, giving the perfume both masculine depth and romantic softness, a bridge between the rugged English countryside and the polished salons of Paris.

In the wider context of perfumery, Bouquet de Lord Seymour aligned with the trends of its time but bore the distinct Guerlain touch that would become a hallmark of the house. While many perfumers produced floral or fougère compositions, few infused them with such narrative charm—a scent born of personality, place, and prestige. It was an early example of Guerlain’s genius for weaving storytelling and sophistication into fragrance, a tradition that would carry the house into global renown.

In 1828, the first Guerlain perfumery opened its doors within the elegant Hôtel Meurice in Paris—a place long favored by English travelers of means. At that time, the hotel’s façade featured small boutiques flanking its grand carriage entrance, giving it the charm of a private arcade. This was the era when English aristocrats journeyed to Paris in post carriages, bringing with them an air of refinement and curiosity for French luxury. Among these distinguished visitors was Lord Henry Seymour, whose arrival in his mail coach became a familiar sight. A figure of both notoriety and fascination, Seymour was affectionately—and somewhat scandalously—nicknamed “Milord l’Arsouille” by Parisians. The term arsouille, a colloquialism of the time, referred to a reckless, pleasure-seeking man—someone given to excess and mischief.

Despite his flamboyant reputation, Lord Seymour was known among those close to him as a generous and warm-hearted patron, a man whose extravagance was tempered by genuine kindness. Beneath the eccentric surface lay a refined sensibility and a love of beauty—qualities that drew him to Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain’s perfumery. Seymour became one of Guerlain’s earliest and most influential patrons, captivated by the subtlety and sophistication of the young perfumer’s creations. His admiration and endorsement lent the fledgling house immediate prestige, establishing Guerlain as a perfumer of distinction and innovation among both French society and visiting foreign elites.

Through this early connection, Guerlain’s reputation blossomed. The perfumes he crafted were celebrated for their refinement, novelty, and balance, qualities that mirrored the cosmopolitan elegance of his clientele. The patronage of men like Lord Seymour not only helped secure Guerlain’s place among Paris’s most esteemed artisans but also set the tone for the brand’s enduring association with aristocracy, taste, and the art of living beautifully. It was in this refined yet exuberant world—of carriages, candlelight, and whispered scandal—that Guerlain’s legacy first took root.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Bouquet de Lord Seymour is most likely based on the popular perfume of the day, Jockey Club, which would be a nod to Lord Seymour's Jockey Club in Paris. Jockey Club was designed to evoke the fresh greens at Epsom Downs. It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: bergamot, orange, lemon, citron, neroli petale, orange blossom, cassie, mimosa, rose, benzoic acid, amyl cinnamate, cinnamon
• Middle notes: lavender, English honey, Bouvardia base, tuberose, jasmine, rose, rose geranium, clove, heliotropin, violet
• Base notes: orris, storax, vanillin, ambergris, civet, coumarin, musk, medlar, tonka bean, Peru balsam, Mysore sandalwood, oakmoss, calamus, musk ambrette, styrax, Siam benzoin, tolu balsam, patchouli

Scent Profile:

Bouquet de Lord Seymour, likely inspired by the popular Jockey Club fragrance of the early 19th century, was a perfume crafted to evoke the fresh green air of the English countryside, mingled with the polished elegance of Parisian refinement. It was a floral oriental, the kind that balanced pastoral freshness with sensual depth—a composition that perfectly mirrored its namesake, Lord Seymour, whose extravagant charm concealed a cultivated and refined soul. To smell it would be to walk through an English garden at dawn, dressed in silk, with sunlight catching the dew on the hedgerows and the faintest trace of polished wood lingering in the air.

The fragrance opens with a burst of bright citrus—Calabrian bergamot, Sevillian orange, lemon, and citron—each bringing its own nuance of sunlight. Bergamot offers that soft, slightly bitter green edge, rich in linalyl acetate and limonene, which adds both brilliance and smoothness. The orange and lemon, high in citral and limonene, contribute zest and clarity, creating a sparkling freshness that feels effervescent rather than sharp. Then comes neroli pétale and orange blossom, both from the sun-drenched groves of Tunisia or southern France. Their sweet, honeyed facets—driven by linalool and indole—soften the citrus with a silky white floral sheen. Into this radiant bouquet, cassie and mimosa weave their delicate powdery warmth, their benzaldehyde and anisic aldehyde lending a faint almond-vanilla breath. A trace of rose rounds the accord, while the faintly spicy sweetness of benzoic acid, amyl cinnamate, and cinnamon hints at something deeper beneath the surface—a touch of Parisian exoticism hidden within English restraint.

As the top fades, the heart unfolds into lush florals and gentle aromatics, evocative of a sun-warmed conservatory. Lavender from Provence lends its clean, herbal freshness, rich in linalool and coumarin, bridging the crisp top notes with the warmth to come. English honey brings a golden sweetness, smooth and waxy, wrapping around bouvardia, tuberose, and jasmine—a trio of creamy, narcotic blooms filled with natural indoles and benzyl acetate. Rose and rose geranium echo the earlier floral notes, reinforcing their romantic core, while clove and heliotropin (a synthetic discovery of the late 19th century) add a spicy, almond-like note that enhances the natural heliotrope facet already present in the floral blend. Violet, high in ionones, adds a cool, powdery veil—an elegant restraint that makes the composition feel tailored and genteel, like a well-fitted riding jacket.

Then, beneath the florals, the base emerges with rich, sensual gravity—a masterful blend of natural resins, musks, and woods. Orris root, with its buttery, powdery elegance from ionones and irones, pairs beautifully with storax, styrax, and Siam benzoin, whose vanillic balsamic sweetness lends warmth and longevity. Vanillin, one of the earliest synthetics, amplifies these creamy aspects, creating a soft halo of sweetness around the deeper animalics. Ambergris tincture and civet add depth and sensuality, their subtle marine and leathery nuances evoking the warmth of skin. 

Tonka bean, coumarin, and medlar (a rare fruit note) give the base a round, almond-vanilla tone, further enriched by Peru and Tolu balsams with their caramel-like warmth. Mysore sandalwood, prized for its buttery richness and high santalol content, merges seamlessly with oakmoss and patchouli, creating a velvety, mossy finish. The inclusion of musk ambrette (a natural seed musk) and early synthetics like musk xylene would have enhanced the sillage, ensuring the perfume left a long, soft trail—an echo of the very word “sillage.”

Together, these ingredients tell a story of contrast and harmony—the crisp, green brightness of England meeting the lush sensuality of the Orient, interpreted through French craftsmanship. The citrus and herbs lend movement, the florals add romance, and the resins and musks ground the perfume in timeless sophistication. Bouquet de Lord Seymour would have smelled both fresh and aristocratic, an olfactory reflection of its patron—refined, daring, and unforgettable, leaving behind a lingering trace of elegance long after the wearer had passed.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued (date unknown) Still being sold in 1886. 

Naissance Shalimar Exceptional Presentation 2009

For Christmas 2009, Guerlain unveiled an extraordinary collector’s piece that celebrated the timeless legacy of Shalimar—a perfume that has come to embody sensuality and refinement for nearly a century. Entitled “Naissance Shalimar Guerlain,” this breathtaking creation was designed by the renowned French sculptor Serge Mansau, whose visionary approach to perfume presentation transformed flacons into art. Mansau’s concept was to represent the birth of Shalimar itself—an olfactory legend brought to life through a sculptural narrative of transformation and revelation.

The composition features five Baccarat crystal flacons, all vintage and originally produced in the 1930s, displayed within a transparent Plexiglas slab that measures 38.5 cm in length and 15 cm in height. Four of these exquisite flacons, empty and suspended within the clear structure, seem to emerge gradually from the acrylic—each bottle revealing a little more of its shape than the one before it, symbolizing the progressive “awakening” or evolution of Shalimar. The fifth and final bottle, a 20 ml flacon filled with freshly made parfum extrait, stands free at the front—its rich golden liquid glowing like a living heart at the center of the composition.

The interplay between the crystal and the Plexiglas evokes a sense of time suspended, of fragrance crystallized in motion. The Baccarat bottles, with their sensual curves and the familiar fan-shaped stoppers, are reminders of Shalimar’s Art Deco heritage and Guerlain’s long partnership with the famed French glassmaker. The contrast between the solid, modern Plexiglas and the delicate, hand-blown vintage crystal mirrors the meeting of eras—1930s elegance reinterpreted through the lens of contemporary artistry.

Mansau’s sculpture captures more than beauty; it tells a story. The gradual emergence of the flacons suggests not only the “birth” of the perfume but also the rebirth of Shalimar through the generations—its formula reimagined, its bottle reinvented, yet its soul eternally the same. Only 19 sets of this extraordinary piece were ever produced, making it one of the most exclusive and conceptually profound Shalimar editions in Guerlain’s history.

The “Naissance Shalimar” stands as both an homage and a meditation—an exploration of the life of a perfume, from inspiration to immortality, captured in glass and light. It is at once sculpture, perfume, and time capsule: a moment of Shalimar’s eternal story made tangible.

 

Jadis c1883

Jadis was launched in 1883 by Aimé Guerlain, a period marked by the elegance and refinement of the late 19th century in France. The name, pronounced as "zhah-DEE", is derived from the French word meaning “in the past.” It evokes nostalgia, romantic reflection, and a sense of timeless elegance—images of candlelit salons, embroidered gowns, and leisurely strolls through manicured gardens. The word suggests a connection to history and memory, inviting the wearer to embrace a fragrance that feels at once classic, sophisticated, and intimately personal.

The late 19th century was a time of opulence and cultural flourish in Europe, with fashion emphasizing ornate detailing, rich fabrics, and a taste for refinement and luxury. Perfumes of this era were designed to complement these lifestyles, offering women and men a subtle yet powerful way to express elegance and personal style. A fragrance named Jadis would have resonated with consumers seeking something evocative, refined, and slightly introspective, connecting them to the romantic ideals of an earlier era while remaining rooted in contemporary sophistication.

Olfactorily, Jadis is classified as a musky vanilla fragrance for both men and women. Its soft, enveloping warmth would have been both comforting and alluring, with vanilla providing a creamy, sweet richness and musk lending a skin-like, lingering sensuality. The combination of these two notes creates an intimate aura, blending gourmand sweetness with subtle animalic depth, allowing the fragrance to feel luxurious yet approachable.

In the context of the 1880s, Jadis fit within popular trends emphasizing soft, opulent accords that balanced sweetness and warmth, yet it distinguished itself through its refined musky-vanilla composition. Unlike many highly floral or heavily spiced perfumes of the period, it offered a more understated elegance, appealing to those who appreciated subtle complexity and the evocative power of scent to conjure memory and emotion. With its evocative name and sophisticated balance, Jadis stands as a testament to Guerlain’s ability to merge artistry, nostalgia, and wearable luxury.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Jadis is classified as a musky vanilla fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: Tonkin musk, bergamot
• Middle notes: orris, white musk, castoreum, civet
• Base notes: vanilla 

Scent Profile:

Jadis by Guerlain opens with an immediate impression of Tonkin deer musk, a rare and precious material whose aroma is intensely animalic, slightly sweet, and skin-like, creating an enveloping sense of intimacy. Its rich musky compounds—muscone and muscopyridine—lend a warm, lingering presence that is at once grounding and seductive. Alongside this, bergamot—likely sourced from the fertile groves of Calabria in southern Italy—adds a sparkling, citrus brightness with lightly bitter and green nuances. The bergamot’s limonene and linalyl acetate provide a crisp, effervescent contrast to the deep sensuality of the musk, balancing the opening with freshness that elevates rather than diminishes the animalic intensity.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals a sophisticated interplay of orris, white musk, castoreum, and civet. Orris, extracted from Italian or French iris rhizomes, offers a powdery, slightly floral warmth with soft woody undertones. The irones in orris enhance the bouquet with a creamy, violet-like elegance that complements the animalic notes. White musk adds a clean, soft, modern touch, toning the more potent natural musks while reinforcing longevity and sillage. Castoreum, traditionally obtained from beaver glands, contributes leathery, resinous, and slightly smoky facets, weaving a tactile, almost sensual richness into the heart. Civet adds a subtle warmth and complexity, its naturally occurring civetone deepening the animalic aura while harmonizing with the musk and castoreum to form a luxurious, enveloping heart. Together, these elements create a layered, textural experience: simultaneously powdery, leathery, and animalic, with a refined balance of softness and intensity.

The base of Jadis is anchored by vanilla, sourced from Madagascar or Bourbon pods, offering a creamy, sweet, and resinous warmth that tempers the animalic richness above. Its key component, vanillin, blends seamlessly with the musk and castoreum, transforming the raw animalic power into a soft, enveloping aura that lingers on the skin. This sweet, almost gourmand foundation provides comfort and sensuality, smoothing the fragrance into a velvety finish that is long-lasting and intimate.

Overall, Jadis is a masterful synthesis of animalic and gourmand elements, where the bright citrus of bergamot and the powdery elegance of orris counterbalance the richness of musk, castoreum, and civet. The final result is a fragrance of sophistication and sensuality, simultaneously bold and refined, offering a musky, vanilla-drenched journey that evokes both warmth and intimacy.

 

Bottles:

Presented in the flacon Plat, the perfume epitomized the grace, elegance, and aristocratic femininity associated with its time..

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1898.

Extrait de Caryophilus album c1848

Extrait de Caryophilus Album, launched in 1848 as part of Guerlain’s celebrated Jardin d’Hiver Collection, exemplifies the maison’s dedication to elevating single botanical notes into refined, aristocratic compositions. The name Caryophilus Album is derived from Latin, referring to the white carnation, and is pronounced as "Ka-ree-OH-fi-lus AL-bum". It evokes images of pristine floral elegance: a bouquet of softly swaying carnations, their petals pure and delicate, exuding a sweetness with a whisper of spice. The title conveys sophistication and classical refinement, mirroring the 19th-century taste for learned and exotic references in luxury perfumery.

The fragrance itself is a spicy floral oriental, built around the nuanced aroma of white carnation. Caryophilus album offers a gently sweet floral heart punctuated by subtle clove-like spiciness, which brings warmth and complexity to its otherwise delicate character. This combination would have been heightened by the skilled blending of natural extracts, infusions, and tinctures, creating a harmonious bouquet that is both graceful and subtly provocative. The spice adds an unexpected depth, balancing the soft floral sweetness and aligning with contemporary preferences for multi-layered fragrances that appeal to both the senses and the intellect.

In the context of 1848, France was in a period of social and political change, with the February Revolution marking the end of the July Monarchy. Yet high society continued to prize elegance and refined taste, often expressed through fashion, jewelry, and fragrances. Women of the period would have related to Caryophilus Album as a statement of sophistication and discernment, a scent that signaled both knowledge of contemporary trends and an appreciation for natural elegance. The perfume’s floral oriental character would have felt both familiar and distinguished, in line with the era’s fascination with botanical essences while standing out for its delicate, spicy signature.

Interpreted in scent, Caryophilus Album conjures the image of a sunlit conservatory, where soft white carnations bloom alongside hints of warm spices. It is simultaneously gentle and intriguing, capturing the refinement of a 19th-century salon while offering a subtle sensuality. In its time, this perfume was both a reflection of popular trends—floral, subtly spiced compositions—and a unique expression of Guerlain’s artistry, demonstrating the maison’s ability to transform a singular botanical note into an elegant, enduring signature of luxury.

Jardin d’Hiver Collection:

Guerlain’s Jardin d’Hiver Collection, launched in 1848, represents a remarkable celebration of botanical singularity and refined artistry. Each fragrance within the collection is devoted to a single floral or plant note, captured with painstaking care to highlight its unique character and essence. The collection’s Latin-styled names—Tilia microphylla, Lathyrus odorans, Mimosa fragrans, Cyperus ruber, and the most recent addition (1853), Mimosa Esterhazya—lend an air of classical sophistication, evoking the scholarly prestige and aristocratic refinement associated with the study of plants and natural sciences. These names, both precise and exotic, signal the high level of craft and attention devoted to each fragrance, appealing to a clientele who valued knowledge, taste, and exclusivity.

At the 1851 Universal Exposition, these perfumes competed not merely as products of luxury, but as demonstrations of technical mastery and artistic innovation. Each extrait is a distillation of a single botanical note, conveying the essence of the plant in a way that is at once vivid, nuanced, and enduring. Tilia microphylla, for instance, would have unfolded with the delicate, honeyed softness of its linden blossoms, while Mimosa fragrans exudes a sunlit, powdery warmth, evocative of early spring mornings. Cyperus ruber, with its earthy, subtly green facets, contrasts with the intensely floral sweetness of Lathyrus odorans, creating a spectrum of olfactory experiences within a unified concept.

The collection was designed for the highest echelons of society, intended for women who were not merely consumers of fragrance but arbiters of taste and refinement. These perfumes were not relegated to the dressing table as casual adornments; they were worn as statements of identity and prestige, perfuming the air with subtlety and elegance. In essence, the Jardin d’Hiver Collection embodies the aristocratic ethos of mid-19th century Paris—a union of botanical scholarship, artistic sophistication, and the cultivated elegance expected of the queens of fashion and fortune. Each fragrance is an intimate portrait of a singular flower, captured with the utmost care, and presented as a jewel of olfactory refinement.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  It is classified as a spicy floral oriental fragrance.

• Top notes: Italian neroli oil, nerol, Tunisian orange blossom, iso eugenol, phenylacetaldehyde, Jordanian almond, Moroccan cassie, amyl salicylate, isobutyl phenylacetate, linalool, Algerian jonquil, hyacinthine
• Middle notes: French carnation, Zanzibar cloves, Ceylon cinnamon, caryophyllene, benzyl isoeugenol, linalool, Grasse rose oil, geranyl formate, Grasse jasmine, Manila ylang ylang, Florentine orris, ionone
• Base notes: heliotropin, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, benzyl acetate, terpineol, Hungarian clary sage oil, ethyl benzoate, Tibetan musk, Indian musk ambrette, Maltese labdanum, ambergris

 

Bottle:

Presented in the carre flacon.

Petit courrier des dames: Journal des modes, 1848:

"By creating the Château des Fleurs, inventing the Jardin d’Hiver, and making flowers fashionable in all the salons of Paris, the trend of perfumery simultaneously returned—after having been somewhat neglected due to the overuse of amber, musk, and vetiver. Yet the perfumes that reappear today bear no resemblance to those bourgeois emanations of old-fashioned coquetry. At Guerlain, 11 Rue de la Paix, however, belongs the right to this thoroughly modern renewal, offering compositions more delicate, more suave, more gentle on the nerves, and more voluptuous to the sense of smell than any other.

Ladies of good society are recognized by these perfumes, just as the high lineage of noble families is recognized by their coats of arms; and when a lock of hair flutters near you, when a magnificent handkerchief falls beside you, or when a fresh, coquettish glove happens to brush near your lips, you can judge by the fragrance emanating from that hair, that handkerchief, or those gloves whether the woman to whom they belong has received at Guerlain the mark of good taste, fashion, and refinement.

New odors composed by Guerlain:

• Extrait de Lolium agriphyllum 
• Extrait de Phlomis asplenia, 
• Extrait d'Azalea melaleuca
• Extrait de Cyparisse Elaidon
• Extrait d'Hyemalis anthelia
• Extrait de Cytise sylvaria 
• Extrait d'Anthemia nobilis 
• Extrait de Cyperus ruber  
• Extrait de Tilia micropluilla
• Extrait d'Hymenaea nitida 
• Extrait de Mimosa fragrans
• Extrait de Caryophilus album 
• Extrait d'Amyris Polyolens 
• Extrait de Polyanthe suaveolens  
• Extrait de Lathyrus odorans  
• Extrait d'Ocymum dulce 

By bringing to light these entirely new perfumes, Guerlain points out that they can only be found at home, and recommends to be on guard against the imitations that one will try to make."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.