Monday, September 1, 2025

Flacon Empire c1902-1959

Guerlain’s Flacon Empire, introduced in 1902, remains one of the house’s most elegant and enduring early presentations. Originally created to hold the extrait Bon Vieux Temps, the bottle was fashioned in clear glass and adorned with gilded enamel drapery, a motif drawn from the grandeur of the Empire style. With its refined, drum-like silhouette, the design conveyed a sense of neoclassical harmony and balance, perfectly suited to Guerlain’s vision of timeless luxury at the turn of the 20th century. The motif of gilded swags evoked both opulence and order, echoing the decorative traditions of Napoleon’s reign, while simultaneously offering a distinctly Parisian touch of modern elegance.

The inspiration for this flacon is said to have come from the Cirque d’Hiver (Winter Circus) in Paris, a celebrated venue where high society gathered for performances, galas, and extravagant soirées. Built in 1852 by architect Jacques Hittorff, the Cirque d’Hiver was a marvel of design—its polygonal exterior resembling a drum encircled by Corinthian columns, richly decorated friezes, and gilded details. Inside, the space dazzled with chandeliers, painted ceilings, and ornate ornamentation. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the circus had become a fashionable playground for Paris’s elite, who attended both circus performances and social events beneath its glittering dome. For Guerlain to draw inspiration from this setting underscored the flacon’s role as a symbol of cultural refinement, pleasure, and spectacle, resonating with the cosmopolitan world in which the house thrived.

Although conceived specifically for Bon Vieux Temps, the Flacon Empire soon demonstrated its adaptability. Guerlain employed the bottle for a number of other creations, including Sillage, Avril en Fleurs, and Fragrans, ensuring its long life within the catalog. By mid-century, it had become most closely associated with Après L’Ondée, which appeared in this form in both 80cc and 125cc sizes until the late 1950s. This enduring use cemented the bottle’s status as one of Guerlain’s classic flacons, embodying both continuity and sophistication.

The flacon was produced by Pochet et du Courval, one of France’s premier glassmakers and a long-standing partner of Guerlain. To support production, the firm created four separate moulds, one of which—mould no. 11880—was officially registered with the Conseil de Prud’hommes (industrial council) on March 7, 1903. The registration illustrates Guerlain’s commitment to safeguarding the originality and artistry of its designs at a time when presentation was becoming nearly as important as the fragrance itself.

Spanning more than five decades of use, from its debut in 1902 to its final circulation in 1959, the Flacon Empire stands as a bridge between Guerlain’s 19th-century apothecary traditions and its 20th-century embrace of artistry and style in perfume presentation. More than just a container, it embodied the theatricality and elegance of its age, uniting the grandeur of Empire design with the modern glamour of Belle Époque Paris.


Sizes:


  • Mould # 11373 = 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 7.5cm/2.95" (1902-1959)
  • Mould # 12167 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 9cm/3.54" (1907-1959)
  • Mould # 12237 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 11cm/4.33" (1907-1945)
  • Mould # 12238 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 13cm/5.12" (1907-1945)


Bottle:





Scents:

  • Apres L'Ondee
  • Avril en Fleurs
  • Bon Vieux Temps
  • Fragrans
  • Sillage

Flacon Stiligoutte de Voyage c1934-1983

The name Flacon Stiligoutte de Voyage can be translated as “travel dropper bottle.” The word stiligoutte comes from the French stylo (pen) and goutte (drop), a term historically used to describe dropper-style dispensers designed to deliver a liquid in controlled drops rather than a free pour. In Guerlain’s context, this meant a practical, hygienic design for dispensing its medicinal preparation, Élixir de Guerlain, without waste. The addition of de Voyage emphasizes its intended portability, making it a convenient bottle for travel use.

Created by Pochet et du Courval in 1934, the bottle was specifically designed for Élixir de Guerlain, the house’s antiseptic dentifrice. Only a single mould was produced—Mould #15035—with a capacity of 166cc. The shape was utilitarian but carefully considered, balancing Guerlain’s tradition of refinement with the practical needs of a medicinal product. In the 1970s, this mould was slightly modified, reducing the bottle’s capacity to 150cc while maintaining its essential design.

This flacon remained in production for nearly five decades, reflecting the enduring popularity of Élixir de Guerlain as a staple of the brand’s apothecary line. Though less ornate than Guerlain’s perfume bottles, the Stiligoutte de Voyage exemplifies the house’s commitment to thoughtful design even for its functional health-care products. Its long production life, from c.1934 until October 1983, also underscores the historical importance of Guerlain’s dental hygiene offerings, which once stood alongside its legendary perfumes as a key part of its catalog.

Flacon Elixir c1909-1939

The Flacon Elixir (c.1909–1939) was a utilitarian yet carefully executed design, created exclusively to house Guerlain’s dental preparations. Most notably, it contained Élixir de Guerlain, an antiseptic dentifrice that occupied an important place in the house’s catalog as part of its dedication not only to beauty but also to hygiene and personal care. This dual focus reflects Guerlain’s broader vision during the early 20th century, when the company offered both luxury perfumes and practical apothecary items.

The bottle itself was distinguished by a sealing method unique to this product. Around the neck, a strip of paper in blue, black, and white—printed with the name Guerlain—was carefully wrapped, serving as both a hygienic safeguard and a branded detail. This seal was secured with a narrow black ribbon threaded through the space in the stopper, ensuring that the contents remained untouched until use. The presentation thus communicated both reliability and elegance, underscoring Guerlain’s ability to elevate even the most functional articles.

Manufactured by Pochet et du Courval, the bottle was produced in four moulds over its lifespan. Each bore an embossed marking on the base reading Guerlain Made in France, a practical identifier that also affirmed its authenticity. While less decorative than Guerlain’s perfume bottles, the Flacon Elixir was nevertheless a thoughtfully conceived vessel, one that reflected the house’s standards of quality and refinement.

Produced until 1939, the Flacon Elixir is now a rare example of Guerlain’s early ventures into hygienic products, representing a fascinating intersection between luxury branding and everyday health care. Today, surviving examples serve as important reminders of the breadth of Guerlain’s historical offerings and the artistry the house extended even to its most utilitarian designs.

Sizes:


  • Mould # 14562 = 15cc/15ml/0.5 oz - 7cm/2.76" (1930-1939)
  • Mould # 15053 = 83cc/83ml/2.81 oz - 11cm/4.33" (1930-1939)
  • Mould # 12504 = 160cc/160ml/5.41 oz - 15.5cm/6.1" (1909-1939)
  • Mould # 12640 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 19.5cm/7.68" (1910-1939)


Bottle:



Flacon Eau de Guerlain c1974-1993

The Flacon Eau de Guerlain (1974–1993) was a strikingly original design created by sculptor Robert Granai in 1973. Granai, who frequently drew inspiration from nature, history, and archaeology, conceived the bottle after studying primitive stone-age tools in the museum of Saint-Germain-en-Laye. In particular, he was captivated by hand-worked sandstone fishing net weights, whose irregular, rounded shapes and notched edges were both functional and evocative. This archaeological reference connects seamlessly with the fragrance’s theme, as the utilitarian tools were linked to water—an association that resonates with the very name Eau de Guerlain.

The resulting bottle is a sculptural work in itself: its clear glass body is rounded with softly irregular curves, featuring a deeply grooved central indentation that emphasizes both tactility and movement. This organic, stone-like quality gives the flacon an elemental character, as though it had been smoothed and shaped by time and water. The design captures the spirit of Granai’s artistic approach, where everyday or ancient objects were elevated into refined, modern forms.

Fitted with a matching gilded screw cap, the bottle was dedicated exclusively to Eau de Guerlain and was never repurposed for other fragrances. Its production was undertaken by several glassmakers: Pochet et du Courval created four moulds, while Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres contributed two, ensuring both technical precision and consistency in this unusual design.

Produced for nearly two decades, the Flacon Eau de Guerlain remains one of the house’s most distinctive modern presentations—a bottle that bridges the worlds of art, history, and perfumery while perfectly embodying the elemental freshness of the fragrance it contained.

Sizes:


Pochet et du Courval:

  • Mould #23256 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (1982)
  • Mould #23258 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 16cm/6.3" (1982) 
  • Mould # 21043 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 18cm/7.09" 
  • Mould #7 = 1 liter/1000ml - 21cm/8.27"

Gold screw stopper with "Eau de Guerlain" on the top.


Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres:
  • Mould #52105 (plan # 66490) = 125ml, base engraved "SGD"  (1973)
  • Mould # 52106 (plan # 66491) = 250ml, base engraved "Bottle Made in France -  Guerlain - Copyright 1973 - SHD" (1973)

Bottles:



 

Sunday, August 31, 2025

Flacon de Voyage (Travel Bottle) c1955-2002

The Flacon de Voyage (Travel Bottle), produced between 1955 and 2002, was originally introduced to house Eau de Cologne Ode. Its functional yet elegant design quickly proved versatile, and by the late 1950s it had been adopted as the standard presentation for Guerlain’s perfumed eaux de cologne in 100cc and 200cc formats. In 1959, the 200cc size became the definitive standard, solidifying the flacon’s role as a practical and recognizable part of Guerlain’s product line, holding eaux de cologne, eaux de toilette, eaux lustrale and lotion vegetales.

The bottle’s clean lines and durable construction were well-suited for frequent handling, making it ideal for travel, as its name suggests. Produced by Pochet et du Courval, five separate moulds were created over its production span, ensuring consistency across large-scale manufacture. Later, Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres took over, producing a single mould that continued the bottle’s legacy.

Packaging for the Flacon de Voyage evolved alongside Guerlain’s broader branding strategies. The earliest versions were presented in blue boxes accented with bands, a design that emphasized freshness and utility. Over time, this was replaced with a more streamlined white box, reflecting mid-century and later minimalist aesthetics while maintaining a sense of refinement.

Serving Guerlain for nearly half a century, the Flacon de Voyage represents both continuity and adaptability within the house’s history. It bridges the gap between practicality and luxury, offering consumers a reliable presentation for Guerlain’s eaux de cologne while embodying the timeless elegance associated with the brand.



Sizes:


Pochet et du Courval:

  • Mould #19024 = 50cc/50ml/1.7 oz - (1962)
  • Mould #18149 = 100cc/100ml/3.4 oz - (1955)
  • Mould #18150 = 200cc/200ml/6.7 oz - 12,8cm (1955)
  • Mould #19469 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - (1965)
  • Mould #19746 = 1 liter/1000ml - (1967)
Bottles had either smooth or ridged gold screw tops with white ring, later with black ring.


Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres:

  • Mould #4970 (plan #36088) = 100ml (1981-1996) base engraved: "Guerlain Paris SGD  Bottle Made in France."



Eau de Colognes:
  • Atuana
  • Cachet Jaune
  • Chamade (in 1969)
  • Chant d'Aromes (in 1962)
  • Chypre 53
  • Fleur de Feu
  • Jicky
  • L'Heure Bleue
  • Liu
  • Mitsouko
  • Ode
  • Shalimar
  • Sous le Vent
  • Vetiver (in 1959)
  • Vol de Nuit


Eau de Toilettes:
  • Eau de Cologne Imperiale
  • Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat
  • Eau de Lavande 
  • Eau de Verveine

Lotion Vegetales:
  • Jasmin
  • Jicky
  • L'Heure Bleue
  • Mitsouko
  • Mouchoir de Monsieur
  • Shalimar

After Shave:
  • Vetiver (in 1959)
  • Habit Rouge (in 1965)

Flacon de Guerre (War Time Edition) c1938-1945

The Flacon de Guerre (War Time Edition), produced between 1938 and 1945, was Guerlain’s pragmatic solution to the challenges posed by World War II. Made of clear glass, this vessel was nicknamed the “war bottle” because it became the standard container for exporting Guerlain perfumes during the conflict. Unlike Guerlain’s specialized and often elaborate flacons of earlier decades, the Flacon de Guerre was created as a uniform, practical option that could be adapted across multiple fragrances. Pochet et du Courval manufactured the bottle in seven mould sizes—10cc, 20cc, 30cc, 40cc, 82cc, 125cc, 250cc, and 500cc—allowing Guerlain to maintain production despite the extraordinary limitations of the time.

The necessity for such a standardized bottle arose from wartime restrictions and rationing. Access to specialty glass, decorative finishes, and even skilled glassmakers was limited, as many glass houses were appropriated for wartime production or disrupted by the Nazi occupation. By employing a simple, multipurpose flacon, Guerlain could continue distributing its perfumes while navigating these constraints.

The presentation was further simplified with paper labels printed in stark black and white, accented only by the iconic Marly horse in red. Labels were tailored in five proportional sizes, ranging from 2 cm x 1.2 cm for the smallest 10cc and 20cc bottles, up to 5 cm x 2.8 cm for the 250cc version. This pared-down aesthetic was a direct reflection of the wartime climate, when luxury had to be expressed in restrained and resourceful ways. Today, the Flacon de Guerre stands as a historical reminder of Guerlain’s resilience and adaptability during one of the most difficult periods of the 20th century.

Sizes:


  • 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz (1939-1945)
  • 30cc/30ml/1 oz (1938-1945)
  • 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz (1938-1945)
  • 82cc/82ml/2.77 oz - 10.3cm/4.06" (1938-1945)
  • 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz (1938-1945)
  • 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz (1938-1945)
  • 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz (1938-1945)

Labels:

  • 2cm x 1.2cm for the 10cc and 20 cc bottles
  • 2.8cm x 1.6cm for the 30cc and 40 cc bottles
  • 3.4cm x 1.9cm for the 82cc bottle
  • 3.9cm x 2.2cm for the 125cc bottle
  • 5cm x 2.8 cm for the 250cc bottle

Bottles:











Scents: 

  • A Travers Champs
  • Bouquet de Faunes
  • Candide Effluve
  • Champs Elysees
  • Coque d'Or
  • Fleur de Feu
  • Fleur Qui Meurt
  • Gardenia
  • Gavotte
  • Geranium d'Espagne
  • Guerlilas
  • Guerlinade
  • Imperial Russe
  • Jasmin
  • Jasmiralda
  • Jicky  
  • Kadine
  • Kriss
  • L'Heure Bleue
  • Lilas
  • Liu
  • Mitsouko
  • Shalimar 
  • Tsao-Kao
  • Vague Souvenir
  • Vega
  • Verveine 

Flacon de Cave (Wine Decanter Flacon) c1830-1938

Guerlain’s Flacon de Cave, also referred to as the Flacon Chinois, is a quintessential example of early 19th- and early 20th-century perfume bottle design, in use from approximately 1830 to 1938. Typically produced in a generous 500 cc size, this bottle served as the standard vessel for a wide range of Guerlain products, including eaux de colognes and eaux de toilettes. Each bottle was accompanied by a label clearly indicating the product, reflecting both practicality and the house’s attention to presentation.

Crafted by the esteemed glassmaker Pochet et du Courval, the Flacon de Cave is characterized by its substantial form, often cylindrical or slightly tapered, reminiscent of traditional wine decanters, which may explain the alternate designation. Many examples were gilded, adding a touch of luxury and highlighting the elegance of the era’s commercial perfume containers. This bottle represents both the functional and decorative priorities of Guerlain during the period, combining a generous capacity with a refined aesthetic suitable for display in both domestic and professional settings.


Sizes:

  • 500cc/500ml/16 oz - 21cm/8.27" (1830-1938), engraved with Femme Drapeaux on reverse until 1911 
  • 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 16cm/6.3" (1911-1938)


Bottles:






Guerlain's Talc de Toilette

 Guerlain's Talc de Toilette was housed inside of a tin enameled in blue, off white and black.