Flacon Louis XVI c1902-2002

The Flacon Louis XVI, created in 1902 by Pochet et du Courval, is one of Guerlain’s most enduring and versatile bottle designs, remaining in use for a full century until 2002. Designed to hold extraits of some of the house’s most important early fragrances, it originally contained classics such as Après L’Ondée, Muguet, Le Mouchoir de Monsieur, Violette à Deux Sous, Le Bon Vieux Temps, Sillage, Avril en Fleurs, and Aï Loe, among others. Its elegant yet restrained silhouette made it suitable for a wide range of compositions, balancing sophistication with timeless appeal.

The form of the bottle reflects the refinement of the Louis XVI style, characterized by classical symmetry and harmonious proportions. Its simplicity allowed the perfumes themselves to remain the focal point, while the craftsmanship of the glass embodied Guerlain’s commitment to quality. Over time, the Flacon Louis XVI also served as the vessel for special limited editions, including Chamade, confirming its role as a flexible, prestigious design that could bridge different eras of Guerlain’s history.

The original presentation box for the flacon was equally restrained yet elegant: a cylindrical white case stamped with Guerlain Paris in gold leaf, underscoring the luxury and exclusivity of the contents. Pochet et du Courval produced eight different moulds for the bottle across its long production run, with the base bearing various molded inscriptions depending on the period, in chronological order: “Guerlain Paris,” “Guerlain Made in France,” or “Guerlain Bottle Made in France.” These inscriptions not only authenticated the bottles but also reflect the subtle shifts in Guerlain’s branding and production practices over the decades.

The bottle enjoyed a revival in 1977, when it was reissued in a 30 ml size for a wide variety of Guerlain’s iconic fragrances, including Shalimar, Mitsouko, L’Heure Bleue, Chamade, Liu, Sous le Vent, Habit Rouge, Eau de Cologne du Coq, Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat, Eau de Guerlain, Eau de Cologne Vétiver, and Eau de Verveine. This reintroduction reaffirmed the versatility and classical beauty of the design, making it a fitting vessel for both historic and modern Guerlain creations. In 1983, Après L’Ondée itself—one of the original perfumes bottled in this form—was reissued in the 30 ml Flacon Louis XVI, completing a circle of continuity within Guerlain’s long tradition.

By the time production ceased in 2002, the Flacon Louis XVI had come to symbolize Guerlain’s ability to preserve heritage while adapting to new eras, making it not only one of the house’s most practical designs but also one of its most historically significant.

Sizes:

• Mould # 13619 = 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 9cm/3.54" (1924) amended 30ml/1 oz (1983-2002)
• Mould # 7 = 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 9cm/3.54", modification of the 30cc bottle (1950-1959)
• Mould # 7 = 75cc/75ml/2.5 oz - 11.3cm/4.45", modification of the 80cc bottle  (1971)
• Mould # 11383 = 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 11.3cm/4.45" (1902-1962)
• Mould # 11656 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 12.8cm/5.04" (1903-1965)
• Mould # 11779 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 16.4cm/6.46" (1904-1959)
• Mould # 12156 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 21.5cm/8.46" (1907-1959)
• Mould # 13253 = 1 liter/1000ml- 25.5cm/10.04" (1920-1959)

A ground glass stopper was used until 1960, and then glass stoppers fitted with "plastemeri" plastic plugs became the norm, so from 1960-2002, these bottles will have the plastic plugs on the stoppers.

Bottles:

Original Scents:

• Apres L'Ondee
• Ai Loe
• Avril en Fleurs
• Le Bon Vieux Temps
• Mouchoir de Monsieur
• Muguet
• Sillage
• Violette a deux Sous

1977 Issued Scents:

• Chamade
• Eau de Cologne du Coq
• Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat
• Eau de Guerlain
• Eau de Cologne Vetiver
• Eau de Verveine
• Habit Rouge
• L'Heure Bleue
• Liu 
• Mitsouko
• Shalimar
• Sous le Vent

1983 Issued Scent: 

• Apres L'Ondee

Flacon Lanterne Bleue (Blue Lantern) c1935-1943

The Flacon Lanterne Bleue (Blue Lantern), produced between 1935 and 1943, is one of Guerlain’s most striking Art Deco-era designs. Its form, a cube-shaped “lantern” rendered in rich cobalt glass, gave the bottle both modernist simplicity and dramatic visual presence. The flacon’s deep, midnight-blue tone was not merely decorative but also functional, shielding the perfume from exposure to light and helping to preserve its integrity. Each bottle was fitted with a clear glass stopper of flared cubic form, echoing the geometry of the base while creating a subtle play of contrast between dark body and translucent top.

Created by Pochet et du Courval, the design was originally introduced to hold extraits of Jicky, Rue de la Paix, Cuir de Russie, Jasmin, Sous le Vent, and several other Guerlain compositions. Over time, the flacon became a standard presentation for as many as thirty different fragrances offered by the house in France, Europe, and the United States. Five separate moulds were produced by Pochet et du Courval, with bottles typically embossed on the underside with both the word “Guerlain” and the firm’s entwined “HP” mark. Although widely adopted, in France the bottle was marketed more selectively: from February 1937 until the end of 1943, only the 80 cc, 125 cc, and 250 cc sizes were available, reserved for specific scents such as Ambre, Cuir de Russie, Gardenia, Lavande, Pois de Senteur, and Verveine.

The labeling system for the Lanterne Bleue was precise and consistent. A white-and-gold paper label was always placed on the underside of the bottle, never on its faces. Three sizes were produced to correspond to the different formats: a 2.6 cm label for the three larger bottles, a 1.8 cm label for the medium size (7.3 cm in height), and a 1.4 cm label for the smallest (5.4 cm in height). This understated placement ensured that the bold form and rich blue glass remained uninterrupted by paper decoration, emphasizing the flacon’s architectural purity.

Though its production ended during the war years, the Flacon Lanterne Bleue retained a certain mystique and was revived in 1999 when Guerlain reissued the design to house a limited edition 125 ml extrait of Guet Apens. This reintroduction not only honored the elegance of the original form but also reconnected a late 20th-century fragrance release with Guerlain’s interwar design heritage, reminding collectors of the house’s long tradition of marrying utility with beauty in its bottle designs.

Sizes:

• Mould #15240 = 10cc/10ml/0.338 oz - 5.4cm/2.13" (May 1936, size reserved for export) 
• Mould #15205 = 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 7.3cm/2.87" (March 1936, size reserved for export)
• Mould #15150 = 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 9.7cm/3.82" (Sept 1935-1943) 
• Mould #15207 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (March 1936, reissued in 1999 125ml/4.2 oz - 12cm/4.72" for Guet Apens) 
• Mould #15209 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 14cm/5.51" (May 1936-1943) 

Bottles:

Scents:

1. Ambre
2. Apres L'Ondee
3. Cuir de Russie
4. Gardenia
5. Guerlinade
6. Guet Apens (1999)
7. Jasmin
8. Jicky
9. Kadine
10. Lavande
11. L'Heure Bleue
12. Liu
13. Mitsouko
14. Pois de Senteur
15. Rue de la Paix
16. Sous le Vent
17. Vega
18. Verveine
19. Violette

Flacon Vase Medicis c1925-1963

The Flacon Lalique, produced between 1925 and 1963, holds a unique place in Guerlain’s history, as it represents the only bottle ever designed for the house by René Lalique. Known within Guerlain as the “Lalique” bottle and also referred to as the "Vase Médicis", the design first appeared in 1925 for the launch of Bouquet de Faunes. That same year, Guerlain also adopted the bottle for Jasmin, a perfume with deep roots in the house’s heritage, originally dating back to the 1840s and later reformulated in 1906 and again in 1924. While Bouquet de Faunes was short-lived, Jasmin continued to be offered in this bottle until the early 1960s, making it the primary fragrance associated with the design.

The bottle itself is a masterpiece of classical inspiration filtered through Lalique’s refined Art Deco sensibility. Its frosted glass form recalls the silhouette of an ancient Medici vase, complete with a pedestal foot. The decoration is rich with symbolism: laurel leaves encircle the pedestal, while the body is adorned with the heads of two fauns and two nymphs, the latter motif borrowed directly from the sculptural ornamentation at Guerlain’s boutique at 68 Avenue des Champs-Élysées. Just above the foot, the name “Guerlain” is molded into the glass. Two distinct versions of the flacon exist. The earlier, used from 1925 to 1940, features molded wavelets encircling the shoulders below the neck. The later version, produced from 1940 into the 1960s, omits these wavelets and instead bears “Made in France” molded into the foot. The flat, circular stopper, also in frosted glass, is pierced with four holes through which the baudruchage cord was threaded, securing the seal. The cord was typically made of beige, black, or black-and-yellow silk, adding a refined finishing touch.

The presentation box was equally luxurious. The bottle was housed in a cylindrical case clad in green leather and fastened with two press studs. The words “Guerlain” (in italics) and “PARIS” (in capitals) were printed in gold on the sides of the base. Inside, the bottle rested on green satin lining, held in place by two brass clips that embraced the pedestal foot. The elegant simplicity of this box design echoed the grandeur of the flacon itself while ensuring the perfume’s protection.

Archival references show that as late as 1956, Guerlain continued to market both Bouquet de Faunes and Jasmin in three sizes of the Lalique bottle. However, by 1963, only Jasmin remained available, offered exclusively in the 80 ml version. The bottle was finally retired in 1964, bringing an end to Lalique’s brief but significant collaboration with Guerlain. Today, the Flacon Lalique stands as a rare and treasured artifact, celebrated both for its artistry and its status as the sole example of René Lalique’s direct work for the Guerlain house.

Sizes:

• 80ml/2.7 oz - 9.7cm/3.82" (1925-1963)
• 125ml/4.2 oz - 11cm/4.33" (1925-1958)
• 250ml/8.4 oz - 13.5cm/5,.31" (1925-1960)

Versions:

• 1925-1940: 1st version with waves just below neck
• 1940-1963: 2nd flat version without waves, marked "Made in France" on the foot

Bottles:

Scents:

• Bouquet de Faunes
• Jasmin

Flacon Guerlinade c1998

The Flacon Guerlinade of 1998 was created to hold the extrait of Guerlinade, a limited-edition fragrance composed by Jean-Paul Guerlain in celebration of the house’s 170th anniversary. Produced by Pochet et du Courval, the bottle was conceived as a tribute piece, distinct from the earlier Guerlinade perfume of 1921, and firmly rooted in Guerlain’s tradition of drawing upon history and world culture for inspiration.

The design of the bottle was modeled after a bronze wine carafe that Jean-Paul Guerlain had acquired during his first travels to Tibet. Captivated by its archaic yet noble form, he adapted the vessel into what he christened the vase tibétain. Rendered in glass by Pochet et du Courval, the flacon embodied both a sense of timelessness and a worldly sophistication, connecting Guerlain’s heritage to a broader cultural dialogue. A select version of the design was also executed by Baccarat, underscoring the celebratory nature of this anniversary release.

The perfume itself was presented with equal care. Each bottle was housed in a presentation box lined with embossed parchment paper, its surface decorated with richly illustrated polychrome designs that heightened the sense of luxury and occasion. The pairing of an exotic, historically inspired flacon with a finely crafted case made the Flacon Guerlinade not just a container for perfume, but an anniversary keepsake symbolizing Guerlain’s legacy and continuity into the modern era.

Size:

• 50ml/1.7 oz - 11cm/4.33"

Bottle:

  

Flacon Guerlilas c1927-1949

Guerlain’s Flacon Guerlilas, also known as the "tank" bottle, produced between 1927 and 1949, was created specifically to house the extraits of Guerlilas and later, beginning in 1934, Guerlarose. The bottle was manufactured by two of the premier French glassworks of the period, Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval, both of whom were long-standing collaborators with Guerlain. Baccarat, renowned for its refined crystal craftsmanship, produced four moulds, while Pochet et du Courval added one mould of their own. This partnership ensured both availability and consistency in supply, while also reflecting the prestige Guerlain enjoyed in working with such elite manufacturers.

The Flacon Guerlilas itself was a study in restraint and elegance. Its design emphasized clean proportions and clarity rather than elaborate embellishment, making it a versatile form adaptable across several fragrances. Over its period of production, the bottle carried three different label styles, distinguished by their striking color combinations: white and purple, green with silver and black, and yellow with silver and black. Each label contributed to the distinct identity of the fragrance it accompanied. The original Art Deco presentation box was equally refined—black with silver bands—bearing the same label motif as the bottle, reinforcing a cohesive and sophisticated presentation.

Interestingly, the Baccarat version of the Flacon Guerlilas was not exclusive to Guerlain. Rival perfumery Gueldy also adopted this very design for perfumes such as Ambre and Bal des Fleurs. This crossover illustrates the realities of the perfume industry in the interwar years, when glassmakers often supplied the same bottle design to multiple houses. In Guerlain’s case, however, the bottle still carried the prestige of Baccarat’s workmanship and the weight of the house’s own heritage, making it distinct in association even if not unique in form.

Today, surviving examples of the Flacon Guerlilas embody the transitional elegance of Guerlain’s interwar era, a period when the house skillfully balanced tradition with modernity. While understated compared to some of Guerlain’s more elaborate presentations, the bottle remains an object of fascination for collectors. Its dual history—as both a vessel for Guerlain’s perfumes and as a design shared with another house—underscores the complex interplay between exclusivity and practicality in perfume bottle production. It is a testament not only to Guerlain’s artistry but also to the interconnected nature of French perfumery and glassmaking in the early 20th century.

Sizes:

Baccarat produced four moulds (Ref. #711):

• 40ml/1.35 oz - 5.4cm/2.13" (1930-1949)
• 80ml/2.7 oz - 7.4cm/2.91" (1930-1949)
• 125ml/4.2 oz - 8.3cm/3.27" (1930-1949)
• 250ml/8.4 oz - 11cm/4.33" (1930-1949)

Pochet et du Courval produced one mould:

• Mould #14146 = 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 7.4cm/2.91"

Bottles:

Scents:

• Guerlilas
• Guerlarose

Flacon Gratte Ciel (Sky Scraper) c1948-1960

Guerlain’s Flacon Gratte Ciel (Sky Scraper), created in 1948, was originally designed to house the perfume Fleur de Feu. The striking verticality of the design earned it the nickname “Gratte Ciel,” or skyscraper, while it was also sometimes referred to as Grand Parapluie (large umbrella) for its towering conical form. Though introduced for Fleur de Feu, the bottle was later adopted in 1952 to hold the extrait of Atuana, appearing in three sizes—40cc, 80cc, and 125cc. Its use was relatively short-lived, as the design was discontinued by 1960, making surviving examples highly prized among collectors today.

The bottle itself was made of colorless pressed glass, with a distinctive architectural silhouette. It was molded in the shape of a grooved conical urn, its body tapering upward with vertical fluting, and was mounted on a square pedestal that emphasized its sculptural, monumental presence. The design was completed with a grooved oval cylinder stopper, which echoed the bottle’s linear ornamentation while maintaining a balanced proportion with the urn-shaped body. This harmony of form and structure gave the flacon a refined modernity that suited Guerlain’s postwar aesthetic. Six moulds were created by Pochet et du Courval to produce this bottle, dedicated solely to the extraits of Fleur de Feu and Atuana.

The presentations of the Flacon Gratte Ciel were as luxurious as the perfumes it contained. For the larger sizes, Guerlain housed the bottle in finely crafted wooden presentation cases made of poplar. These elegant cases were designed to open like a book, lined with white silk interiors that cradled the flacon. The exteriors were covered with colored silk to distinguish the perfumes: Atuana in vivid red silk, and Fleur de Feu in white silk. Smaller bottles, while less elaborate, still reflected Guerlain’s attention to detail and refinement. These came in cardboard cases covered with suede-textured paper scattered with golden leaf designs, with interiors also lined in white silk. The Atuana cases were finished in red suede paper, while Fleur de Feu was presented in gray suede paper.

The bottles were labeled with pampille-style paper tags, attached to the neck with a cord wound neatly around the glass. These labels were small, jewel-like details that added both functionality and decoration. For Fleur de Feu, the large sizes carried labels measuring 2.1cm x 2cm, while the smaller bottles bore labels measuring 1.7cm x 1.7cm. For Atuana, the label proportions were slightly different: the 125cc bottle had a circular label measuring 2.2cm in diameter, while the 40cc and 80cc bottles carried smaller 1.8cm diameter versions. These subtle distinctions highlight Guerlain’s precision in presentation, tailoring every element of packaging to scale and proportion.

Sizes:

• Mould #17354 = 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz - 11.5cm/4.53", octagonal foot (May 1949)
• Mould #17264 = 28cc/28ml/0.947 oz - 12.8cm/5.08", octagonal foot (Dec 1948) (limited edition 1999 30ml/1 oz - 12cm)
• Mould #17356 = 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 13.8cm/5.43", octagonal foot (June 1949)
• Mould #17072 = 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 18.2cm/7.17", square foot (Feb 1948)
• Mould  #17387 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 20.6cm/8.11", square foot (July 1949)
• Mould #17389 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 25.1cm/9.88", square foot (July 1949)

Bottles:

Scents:

• Atuana
• Fleur de Feu

Flacon Goutte (Teardrop) c1923-2001

Guerlain’s Flacon Goutte (Teardrop Bottle), introduced in 1923, became one of the house’s longest-lived standard presentations, remaining in use until 2001. Created by Pochet et du Courval, and later also produced by Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres, the bottle was originally designed to hold only eaux de toilette. Its form was intended as the new standard for Guerlain’s toilet waters, replacing the “flat fancy” bottle of 1890. Elegant yet practical, the design emphasized both refinement and accessibility, a balance that helped cement its enduring presence in the Guerlain line.

The bottle’s most recognizable feature was its frosted glass stopper, cleverly shaped as two interlocking cockle shells. This detail gave the flacon a natural, organic charm while remaining distinctively Guerlain. Early examples bore the famous Étiquette Dauphin, or “Dolphin Label,” which showed two dolphins rendered in a “newsprint” style. This label was reserved exclusively for bottles fitted with ground glass stoppers or with the later “plastemeri” stopper fittings. The dolphin label was used consistently from 1923 until the late 1970s, when it was replaced by a modernized black-and-gold oval label (1980–1987). From 1988 onward, labels disappeared altogether, replaced by silkscreened lettering directly on the bottle.

The stopper system evolved significantly over the decades. From 1923 until 1973, traditional ground glass stoppers were employed. In 1973, Guerlain introduced ground glass stoppers fitted with “plastemeri” plastic dowels to prevent sticking and ensure a secure fit. Between 1980 and 1987, these were replaced with gilded glass screw-on caps, also fitted with plastemeri dowels, reflecting the more glamorous packaging trends of the time. Finally, from 1987 until the bottle’s discontinuation in 2002, Guerlain used simple glass stoppers with plastemeri fittings. These changes illustrate both technological advances in packaging and evolving aesthetic preferences.

The Flacon Goutte was used to present some of Guerlain’s most celebrated fragrances. A 1939 advertisement proudly announced: “Toilet water in an oval bottle with atomizer top is new, $5.” By 1940, the bottle was offered in a $5 size across a wide range of Guerlain’s best-loved perfumes, including Shalimar, L’Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Coque d’Or, Liu, Mitsouko, Sous le Vent, and Jicky. The accessible price point and elegant presentation made these classics available to a broader clientele.

The boxes accompanying the Flacon Goutte also changed over the decades. Initially, the bottles were sold in cardboard boxes decorated with blue bands. These were later replaced by packaging featuring a “coffee bean” motif, and eventually by a striking black-and-white “zigzag” design that reflected mid-century modernist influences. Together, the evolution of the packaging and the bottle itself mirrors Guerlain’s ability to adapt to shifting tastes while preserving the brand’s distinct identity.

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval:

• Mould #20778 = 50cc/50ml/1.7 oz - 8 to 9cm/3.15" to 3.54" (1973) 
• Mould # 15470 = 100cc/100ml/3.4 oz - 12 to 13cm/4.72" to 5.12" (1938) 
• Mould # 13513 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 16 to 17cm/6.3" to 6.69" (1923)
• Mould # 13514 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 20 to 21cm/7.87" to 8.27" (1923)
• Mould #13515 = 1 liter - 25 to 26cm/9.84" to 10.24" (1923)

Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres Bottles:

• Mould #4458 (plan #21886) = 4ml, sample bottle, base engraved "Guerlain" (1976-1987)
• Mould #4840 (plan #71570) = 50ml - 8.9 cm, glass plastemeri stopper (1983-1988)
• Mould #4838 (plan #71571) = 100ml - 12.5 cm, glass plastemeri stopper (1983-1994) 
• Mould #4836 (plan #71572) = 250ml - 16.8 cm, glass plastemeri stopper (1983-1995)

 Base of SGD bottles are molded with "Guerlain-Paris- Made in France."

Stoppers:

• 1923-1973: ground glass
• 1973-1980: glass with plastic dowel
• 1980-1987: gilded glass with screw on plastic dowel
• 1987-2002: glass with plastic dowel

Labels:

• 1923-1979: newsprint dolphin label
• 1980-1987: black and gold oval label
• 1987-2001: no label, silk-screened serigraphy on bottle instead

Bottles:

Scents:

This bottle held over 40 different scents:

1. Apres L'Ondee 
2. A Travers Champs 
3. Bouquet de Faunes 
4. Cachet Jaune  
5. Candide Effluve 
6. Chamade 
7. Champs Elysees 
8. Chant D'Aromes 
9. Chypre 53
10. Coque D'Or 
11. Cuir de Russie
12. Dawamesk
13. Djedi
14. Eau de Cologne du Coq
15. Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles
16. Fleur de Feu
17. Fol Arome
18. Gardenia 
19. Geranium d'Espagne
20. Guerlilas
21. Habit Rouge 
22. Heliotrope
23. Jasmin
24. Jicky
25. Kadine
26. L'Heure Bleue
27. Lavande
28. Lilas
29. Liu
30. Mitsouko
31. Mouchoir de Monsieur
32. Muguet
33. Oeillet
34. Parure
35. Pour Troubler
36. Quand Vient L'Ete
37. Rue de la Paix
38. Shalimar/No. 90
39. Sous Le Vent
40. Une Rose
41. Vague Souvenir
42. Vega
43. Vetiver
44. Violette
45. Vol de Nuit