Monday, September 1, 2025

Flacon Mauresque (Moorish) c1910 - ?

The Flacon Mauresque (Moorish), created around 1910, stands out as one of Guerlain’s most exotic and opulent designs, reflecting the fascination with Orientalist aesthetics that pervaded French decorative arts in the early 20th century. This long-necked, carafe-style bottle was almost certainly produced by Pochet et du Courval in a single mould, measuring 22.5 cm in height and with a generous capacity of 250cc. Its design was based on a 17th-century Persian or Moorish perfume flacon preserved in the Guerlain family collection, which served as a direct source of inspiration.


The body of the Flacon Mauresque has a distinctive four-sided belly paired with a tall, gadrooned neck, its form evoking both antique vessels and Oriental craftsmanship. The surface is richly decorated with lacquer and polychrome enamel, hand-painted with delicate motifs of daisies, flowers, geometric threads, and friezes of triangles or pastilles. These designs, applied in a variety of vivid colors, reinforced the sense of luxury and exotic refinement. Each example is slightly unique, as both bottle and stopper were mouth-blown, and the stoppers themselves varied in shape while also receiving the same lacquer and enamel treatments.

Guerlain used this rare Oriental-inspired bottle for several of its important perfumes, including Quand Vient l’Été, Jicky, L’Heure Bleue, and Kadine. The base of the bottle is embossed with “Guerlain Paris,” confirming its authenticity. The presentation box was no less striking: it bore a marbled effect in shades of brown, black, green, and orange, further enhancing the bottle’s exotic flair.

Because only one mould was created by Pochet et du Courval, and given the hand-decorated nature of its production, the Flacon Mauresque remains a particularly rare and highly coveted example of Guerlain’s artistry, a vessel that perfectly encapsulates the house’s early embrace of Orientalist design in both fragrance and presentation.


Sizes:


Pochet only made one mould: 

  • 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 22.5cm/8.86"


Bottles:













Flacon Lyre c1921-1959

The Flacon Lyre, produced from 1921 to 1959, is a clear glass bottle originally created by Baccarat to house the extrait Candide Effluve. Its elegant form, inspired by the lyre—a classical stringed instrument—reflects the artistic and decorative sensibilities of the early 1920s, when perfume bottles were increasingly seen as objects of art as much as vessels for fragrance. The bottle was designed with refined lines and proportions that emphasized both verticality and grace, making it a visually striking presentation for Guerlain’s luxurious extraits.


Baccarat produced five moulds of the Flacon Lyre, ensuring consistent quality and allowing for continued production across multiple fragrances. In addition to Candide Effluve, the bottle was later used for other prominent Guerlain scents, including A Travers Champs and Guerlinade, demonstrating the versatility of the design. Its understated elegance allowed it to complement a variety of perfumes without overwhelming their branding.

A particularly rare variation was produced in August 1924 by Pochet et du Courval. This single mould was created in very small quantities specifically for export to the United States, illustrating Guerlain’s early efforts to reach an international market. The combination of Baccarat’s main production and the limited Pochet export edition makes the Flacon Lyre both historically significant and highly collectible, bridging European luxury craftsmanship with the expansion of Guerlain’s global presence.


Sizes:


Baccarat (model#475):
  • 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 12.9cm/5.08" (1921-1959)
  • 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 14.7cm/5.79" (1921-1959)
  • 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 18.7cm/7.36" (1921-1959)
  • 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 23.5cm/9.25" (1921-1952)
  • 1 liter/1000ml - 29cm/11.42" (1921-1952)


Pochet & the Courval:

  • Mould #13638 = 30cc/30ml/1 oz (1924) produced very limited quantities to the USA


Labels:


The same gold and black paper label was available in two sizes:
  • Large: 3.1cm x 2.4cm for the three larger bottles.
  • Small: 2.5cm x 2.1cm for he two small sizes.

Bottles:






Scents:

  • A Travers Champs
  • Candide Effluve 
  • Guerlinade

Flacon L'Urne Antique c1830

The Flacon L’Urne Antique, created around 1830, is one of the earliest known Guerlain bottles, embodying the refined neoclassical sensibilities of the period. Made of colorless glass, the bottle was produced in four different moulds and carries one of the earliest molded brand inscriptions: “Guerlain – Rue de la Paix No. 15.” This marking not only situates the bottle in its historical context—during Guerlain’s early years at his celebrated boutique on the Rue de la Paix—but also provides collectors with one of the most tangible links to the house’s origins. Standing at just 4 inches tall, it is modest in scale yet rich in historical importance.

The stopper is particularly striking, described as being in the “Chinois” style. Its distinctive mandarin hat–shaped form reflects the 19th-century fascination with Orientalist motifs, which often influenced European decorative arts. The ground glass stopper was fitted with kid leather to ensure a tight seal, and the closure was further secured with a silk bow, adding both practicality and refinement. This meticulous attention to finishing details speaks to Guerlain’s early reputation for elegance and craftsmanship, even in utilitarian aspects of packaging.

Labels for the Flacon L’Urne Antique were printed in the shape of a “blason” or shield—an early emblematic choice that emphasized heritage, prestige, and the protective quality of a coat of arms. These paper labels bore the perfume’s identification and reinforced the classical character of the presentation.

The bottle was not tied to a single fragrance but instead used to hold various Guerlain scents of the period, making it a versatile vessel within the house’s growing catalog. Today, surviving examples of the Flacon L’Urne Antique are considered extremely rare. Their scarcity, combined with their direct connection to Guerlain’s earliest years, makes them prized by collectors and historians alike as touchstones of the brand’s foundational period.


Sizes:

  • Mould #1398 = 2 oz (approx. 61cc) - 11.5cm
  • Mould #1415 = 4 oz (approx. 122cc) 
  • Mould #1406 = 8 oz (approx. 244cc) - 16.7cm
  • Mould #4038 = 1 once (approx. 30cc) (1860s)

Bottle:


  


Scents:

  • Amyris Polyolens
  • Bouquet de la Cour
  • Bouquet de Printemps
  • Bouquet des Bois
  • Bouquet de la Princess Beatrix
  • Bouquet de la Princess Clotilde
  • Bouquet du Chateau
  • Bouquet du Jockey Club
  • Bouquet du Prince Imperial
  • Bouquet du Regent
  • Bridal Bouquet 
  • Chypre
  • Cytise Sylvaria
  • D'Ayapana
  • E Pluribus Unum
  • Fantasie de Deauville
  • Fior d'Aliza
  • Fleur de Pecher
  • Genet d'Espagne
  • Geranium de Serre
  • Honey Water
  • Iris Blanc
  • New Bouquet
  • Ocean Spray Bouquet
  • Ordem E Progesso
  • Rococo A La Parisienne
  • Rose et Violette
  • Royal Perfume
  • Unter den Linden
  • Upper Ten
  • Violette des Alpes

Flacon Louis XVI c1902-2002

The Flacon Louis XVI, created in 1902 by Pochet et du Courval, is one of Guerlain’s most enduring and versatile bottle designs, remaining in use for a full century until 2002. Designed to hold extraits of some of the house’s most important early fragrances, it originally contained classics such as Après L’Ondée, Muguet, Le Mouchoir de Monsieur, Violette à Deux Sous, Le Bon Vieux Temps, Sillage, Avril en Fleurs, and Aï Loe, among others. Its elegant yet restrained silhouette made it suitable for a wide range of compositions, balancing sophistication with timeless appeal.

The form of the bottle reflects the refinement of the Louis XVI style, characterized by classical symmetry and harmonious proportions. Its simplicity allowed the perfumes themselves to remain the focal point, while the craftsmanship of the glass embodied Guerlain’s commitment to quality. Over time, the Flacon Louis XVI also served as the vessel for special limited editions, including Chamade, confirming its role as a flexible, prestigious design that could bridge different eras of Guerlain’s history.

The original presentation box for the flacon was equally restrained yet elegant: a cylindrical white case stamped with Guerlain Paris in gold leaf, underscoring the luxury and exclusivity of the contents. Pochet et du Courval produced eight different moulds for the bottle across its long production run, with the base bearing various molded inscriptions depending on the period, in chronological order: “Guerlain Paris,” “Guerlain Made in France,” or “Guerlain Bottle Made in France.” These inscriptions not only authenticated the bottles but also reflect the subtle shifts in Guerlain’s branding and production practices over the decades.

The bottle enjoyed a revival in 1977, when it was reissued in a 30 ml size for a wide variety of Guerlain’s iconic fragrances, including Shalimar, Mitsouko, L’Heure Bleue, Chamade, Liu, Sous le Vent, Habit Rouge, Eau de Cologne du Coq, Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat, Eau de Guerlain, Eau de Cologne Vétiver, and Eau de Verveine. This reintroduction reaffirmed the versatility and classical beauty of the design, making it a fitting vessel for both historic and modern Guerlain creations. In 1983, Après L’Ondée itself—one of the original perfumes bottled in this form—was reissued in the 30 ml Flacon Louis XVI, completing a circle of continuity within Guerlain’s long tradition.

By the time production ceased in 2002, the Flacon Louis XVI had come to symbolize Guerlain’s ability to preserve heritage while adapting to new eras, making it not only one of the house’s most practical designs but also one of its most historically significant.


Sizes:


  • Mould # 13619 = 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 9cm/3.54" (1924) amended 30ml/1 oz (1983-2002)
  • Mould # 7 = 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 9cm/3.54", modification of the 30cc bottle (1950-1959)
  • Mould # 7 = 75cc/75ml/2.5 oz - 11.3cm/4.45", modification of the 80cc bottle  (1971)
  • Mould # 11383 = 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 11.3cm/4.45" (1902-1962)
  • Mould # 11656 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 12.8cm/5.04" (1903-1965)
  • Mould # 11779 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 16.4cm/6.46" (1904-1959)
  • Mould # 12156 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 21.5cm/8.46" (1907-1959)
  • Mould # 13253 = 1 liter/1000ml- 25.5cm/10.04" (1920-1959)


A ground glass stopper was used until 1960, and then glass stoppers fitted with "plastemeri" plastic plugs became the norm, so from 1960-2002, these bottles will have the plastic plugs on the stoppers.

Bottles:



Original Scents:

  • Apres L'Ondee
  • Ai Loe
  • Avril en Fleurs
  • Le Bon Vieux Temps
  • Mouchoir de Monsieur
  • Muguet
  • Sillage
  • Violette a deux Sous

1977 Issued Scents:

  • Chamade
  • Eau de Cologne du Coq
  • Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat
  • Eau de Guerlain
  • Eau de Cologne Vetiver
  • Eau de Verveine
  • Habit Rouge
  • L'Heure Bleue
  • Liu 
  • Mitsouko
  • Shalimar
  • Sous le Vent

1983 Issued Scent: 

  • Apres L'Ondee

Flacon Lanterne Bleue (Blue Lantern) c1935-1943

The Flacon Lanterne Bleue (Blue Lantern), produced between 1935 and 1943, is one of Guerlain’s most striking Art Deco-era designs. Its form, a cube-shaped “lantern” rendered in rich cobalt glass, gave the bottle both modernist simplicity and dramatic visual presence. The flacon’s deep, midnight-blue tone was not merely decorative but also functional, shielding the perfume from exposure to light and helping to preserve its integrity. Each bottle was fitted with a clear glass stopper of flared cubic form, echoing the geometry of the base while creating a subtle play of contrast between dark body and translucent top.

Created by Pochet et du Courval, the design was originally introduced to hold extraits of Jicky, Rue de la Paix, Cuir de Russie, Jasmin, Sous le Vent, and several other Guerlain compositions. Over time, the flacon became a standard presentation for as many as thirty different fragrances offered by the house in France, Europe, and the United States. Five separate moulds were produced by Pochet et du Courval, with bottles typically embossed on the underside with both the word “Guerlain” and the firm’s entwined “HP” mark. Although widely adopted, in France the bottle was marketed more selectively: from February 1937 until the end of 1943, only the 80 cc, 125 cc, and 250 cc sizes were available, reserved for specific scents such as Ambre, Cuir de Russie, Gardenia, Lavande, Pois de Senteur, and Verveine.

The labeling system for the Lanterne Bleue was precise and consistent. A white-and-gold paper label was always placed on the underside of the bottle, never on its faces. Three sizes were produced to correspond to the different formats: a 2.6 cm label for the three larger bottles, a 1.8 cm label for the medium size (7.3 cm in height), and a 1.4 cm label for the smallest (5.4 cm in height). This understated placement ensured that the bold form and rich blue glass remained uninterrupted by paper decoration, emphasizing the flacon’s architectural purity.

Though its production ended during the war years, the Flacon Lanterne Bleue retained a certain mystique and was revived in 1999 when Guerlain reissued the design to house a limited edition 125 ml extrait of Guet Apens. This reintroduction not only honored the elegance of the original form but also reconnected a late 20th-century fragrance release with Guerlain’s interwar design heritage, reminding collectors of the house’s long tradition of marrying utility with beauty in its bottle designs.


Sizes:


  • Mould #15240 = 10cc/10ml/0.338 oz - 5.4cm/2.13" (May 1936, size reserved for export) 
  • Mould #15205 = 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 7.3cm/2.87" (March 1936, size reserved for export)
  • Mould #15150 = 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 9.7cm/3.82" (Sept 1935-1943) 
  • Mould #15207 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (March 1936, reissued in 1999 125ml/4.2 oz - 12cm/4.72" for Guet Apens) 
  • Mould #15209 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 14cm/5.51" (May 1936-1943) 

Bottles:














Scents:

  1. Ambre
  2. Apres L'Ondee
  3. Cuir de Russie
  4. Gardenia
  5. Guerlinade
  6. Guet Apens (1999)
  7. Jasmin
  8. Jicky
  9. Kadine
  10. Lavande
  11. L'Heure Bleue
  12. Liu
  13. Mitsouko
  14. Pois de Senteur
  15. Rue de la Paix
  16. Sous le Vent
  17. Vega
  18. Verveine
  19. Violette


Flacon Vase Medicis c1925-1963

The Flacon Lalique, produced between 1925 and 1963, holds a unique place in Guerlain’s history, as it represents the only bottle ever designed for the house by René Lalique. Known within Guerlain as the “Lalique” bottle and also referred to as the "Vase Médicis", the design first appeared in 1925 for the launch of Bouquet de Faunes. That same year, Guerlain also adopted the bottle for Jasmin, a perfume with deep roots in the house’s heritage, originally dating back to the 1840s and later reformulated in 1906 and again in 1924. While Bouquet de Faunes was short-lived, Jasmin continued to be offered in this bottle until the early 1960s, making it the primary fragrance associated with the design.

The bottle itself is a masterpiece of classical inspiration filtered through Lalique’s refined Art Deco sensibility. Its frosted glass form recalls the silhouette of an ancient Medici vase, complete with a pedestal foot. The decoration is rich with symbolism: laurel leaves encircle the pedestal, while the body is adorned with the heads of two fauns and two nymphs, the latter motif borrowed directly from the sculptural ornamentation at Guerlain’s boutique at 68 Avenue des Champs-Élysées. Just above the foot, the name “Guerlain” is molded into the glass. Two distinct versions of the flacon exist. The earlier, used from 1925 to 1940, features molded wavelets encircling the shoulders below the neck. The later version, produced from 1940 into the 1960s, omits these wavelets and instead bears “Made in France” molded into the foot. The flat, circular stopper, also in frosted glass, is pierced with four holes through which the baudruchage cord was threaded, securing the seal. The cord was typically made of beige, black, or black-and-yellow silk, adding a refined finishing touch.

The presentation box was equally luxurious. The bottle was housed in a cylindrical case clad in green leather and fastened with two press studs. The words “Guerlain” (in italics) and “PARIS” (in capitals) were printed in gold on the sides of the base. Inside, the bottle rested on green satin lining, held in place by two brass clips that embraced the pedestal foot. The elegant simplicity of this box design echoed the grandeur of the flacon itself while ensuring the perfume’s protection.

Archival references show that as late as 1956, Guerlain continued to market both Bouquet de Faunes and Jasmin in three sizes of the Lalique bottle. However, by 1963, only Jasmin remained available, offered exclusively in the 80 ml version. The bottle was finally retired in 1964, bringing an end to Lalique’s brief but significant collaboration with Guerlain. Today, the Flacon Lalique stands as a rare and treasured artifact, celebrated both for its artistry and its status as the sole example of René Lalique’s direct work for the Guerlain house.


Sizes:


  • 80ml/2.7 oz - 9.7cm/3.82" (1925-1963)
  • 125ml/4.2 oz - 11cm/4.33" (1925-1958)
  • 250ml/8.4 oz - 13.5cm/5,.31" (1925-1960)

Versions:


  • 1925-1940: 1st version with waves just below neck
  • 1940-1963: 2nd flat version without waves, marked "Made in France" on the foot


Bottles:







Scents:

  • Bouquet de Faunes
  • Jasmin

Flacon Guerlinade c1998

The Flacon Guerlinade of 1998 was created to hold the extrait of Guerlinade, a limited-edition fragrance composed by Jean-Paul Guerlain in celebration of the house’s 170th anniversary. Produced by Pochet et du Courval, the bottle was conceived as a tribute piece, distinct from the earlier Guerlinade perfume of 1921, and firmly rooted in Guerlain’s tradition of drawing upon history and world culture for inspiration.

The design of the bottle was modeled after a bronze wine carafe that Jean-Paul Guerlain had acquired during his first travels to Tibet. Captivated by its archaic yet noble form, he adapted the vessel into what he christened the vase tibétain. Rendered in glass by Pochet et du Courval, the flacon embodied both a sense of timelessness and a worldly sophistication, connecting Guerlain’s heritage to a broader cultural dialogue. A select version of the design was also executed by Baccarat, underscoring the celebratory nature of this anniversary release.

The perfume itself was presented with equal care. Each bottle was housed in a presentation box lined with embossed parchment paper, its surface decorated with richly illustrated polychrome designs that heightened the sense of luxury and occasion. The pairing of an exotic, historically inspired flacon with a finely crafted case made the Flacon Guerlinade not just a container for perfume, but an anniversary keepsake symbolizing Guerlain’s legacy and continuity into the modern era.

Size:


  • 50ml/1.7 oz - 11cm/4.33"


Bottle:



  

Guerlain's Talc de Toilette

 Guerlain's Talc de Toilette was housed inside of a tin enameled in blue, off white and black.