Moynat and Guerlain Beauty Trunk

In April 2014, the storied French leather goods house Moynat partnered with Guerlain to create a truly exceptional piece of functional art: the “Malle de Beauté,” or beauty case, celebrating the grand re-opening of the legendary Orient Express luxury train service. Designed as both a tribute to timeless travel and to Guerlain’s enduring heritage, the case embodies the spirit of refinement and bespoke craftsmanship.

The exterior is a masterpiece in itself, crafted from vegetal-tanned calfskin leather in the signature deep blue of the Orient Express, accented with precise white stitching and luminous gold-plated brass hardware. The supple grain of the calfskin lends both durability and elegance, while the glint of the polished metal fittings evokes the golden age of luxury travel. Every detail is executed by hand, requiring over 250 hours of work by a single artisan, underscoring Moynat’s reputation for unrivaled savoir-faire.

Upon opening the case, the interior reveals a world of opulence. Hinged apple wood drawers and trays—lightweight yet resilient—expand outward in a fluid motion, offering a dramatic unveiling of the treasures within. The compartments are lined with plush beige velvet-like fabric, creating a tactile and visual contrast against the rich blue exterior. As the lid lifts, a backlit mirror magically illuminates, casting a warm glow over the contents, transforming the vanity into a private stage of beauty and ritual.

 Inside, the drawers and trays are meticulously sized to cradle Guerlain’s most exquisite offerings. Chief among them are four vintage Baccarat flacons of Shalimar parfum, each bottle a crystalline jewel carrying one of perfumery’s greatest masterpieces. The careful arrangement of Guerlain beauty items within makes the case not just a travel companion but a miniature boudoir, designed to bring a sense of indulgence wherever it journeys. Beyond cosmetics, its versatile layout also allows it to be used as a refined repository for jewelry, watches, or personal treasures.

Each Malle de Beauté was available only on a build-to-order basis, with prices ranging from $5,000 to $55,000, depending on client specifications. No two trunks were entirely alike, making each one a personal expression of luxury. This collaboration between Guerlain and Moynat, steeped in French artisanal tradition, remains not only a celebration of the Orient Express’s rebirth but also a symbol of beauty, elegance, and the romance of travel.

Iris Blanc c1883

Iris Blanc by Guerlain, launched around 1883, was a fragrance steeped in symbolism, refinement, and the artistic sensibilities of its age. The name itself, Iris Blanc (pronounced ee-rees blahnk in French, meaning “White Iris”), reflects both purity and elegance. In the Victorian Language of Flowers, the white iris symbolized innocence, faith, and spiritual purity. It was also linked to the Greek goddess Iris, the divine messenger who bridged heaven and earth with her rainbow, which imbued the flower with an air of mysticism and lofty grace. To name a perfume after such a blossom was to invite associations of refinement, ethereal beauty, and timeless femininity.

The imagery evoked by Iris Blanc would have been especially compelling to women of the late 19th century. The phrase conjures visions of white petals glistening with morning dew, bathed in soft sunlight, and releasing a powdery, faintly violet-like perfume into the air. It carried emotions of serenity, elegance, and restrained sensuality—a fragrance that whispered rather than shouted. For fashionable women of the period, Iris Blanc would have aligned with ideals of cultivated femininity, modest grace, and quiet sophistication, offering a fragrance that was both delicate and dignified.

The perfume emerged during the Belle Époque, a period of optimism, innovation, and cultural flourishing in France. Fashion at the time was marked by elegant gowns with cinched waists, flowing skirts, and elaborate lace details, while the arts celebrated refinement and modernity. Perfumery, too, was in transition. Traditional natural extracts, tinctures, and infusions still formed the backbone of fragrance creation, but by the 1880s, new synthetic aroma molecules such as amyl acetate (with its sweet, fruity notes), lignaloe (softly floral and woody), ionones (capturing the elusive scent of violets), heliotropin (powdery, almond-vanilla warmth), and terpineol (floral-lilac brightness) were beginning to expand the perfumer’s palette. These innovations allowed perfumers like Guerlain to enhance the natural delicacy of iris with greater radiance, persistence, and depth.

In the broader landscape of 19th-century perfumery, iris-themed fragrances were highly fashionable, with nearly every major house offering its interpretation. Recipes for iris perfumes appeared frequently in formularies of the time, each perfumer modifying the basic structure to create something distinct. Guerlain’s Iris Blanc stood out not only for its luxurious quality but also for its balance of natural iris with the emerging synthetics of the era, resulting in a fragrance that felt both familiar and modern.

For women of the Belle Époque, wearing Iris Blanc was more than simply adorning themselves with perfume—it was a statement of refinement, purity, and subtle sensuality. The scent itself would have been interpreted as soft, powdery, and gently floral, tinged with violet-like sweetness and underpinned by woody warmth, embodying the elegance of a white iris in bloom. In this way, Iris Blanc seamlessly reflected the ideals of its time while also anticipating the future of modern perfumery.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Iris Blanc by Guerlain is classified as a floral fragrance with a strong powdery facet, leaning toward a floral-powdery or floral-oriental style depending on its concentration.

• Top notes: lignaloe, amyl acetate
• Middle notes: jasmine, ylang ylang, ionone
• Base notes: orris root concrete, heliotropin, terpineol

Scent Profile:

The first impression of Iris Blanc unfolds with a curious duality—on one side, the natural softness of lignaloe and on the other, the synthetic sparkle of amyl acetate. Lignaloe, distilled from the wood of the linaloe tree, carries a smooth, floral-woody profile with balsamic undertones that soften the brightness of the opening. It is not harsh, but rather gently diffusive, giving the fragrance a subtle floral roundness right from the start. Against this, amyl acetate flashes forward with its unmistakable fruity nuance—bananas, pears, even a hint of apple candy. This synthetic note was often prized in late 19th-century perfumery for its playful freshness, offering a lively lift that natural ingredients alone could not provide. Together, these two notes create an unusual introduction: refined woodiness touched with a gleaming, almost gourmand fruitiness.

As the perfume settles, the heart opens into a lush bouquet where jasmine and ylang ylang dominate. Jasmine, likely of Egyptian origin, brings an opulent floralcy with narcotic, honeyed tones—heady, sensual, and unmistakably feminine. Ylang ylang from the Comoros or Madagascar adds its own creamy richness, a blend of banana-like fruitiness, delicate spiciness, and custard-like warmth. These natural florals are then intertwined with ionone, one of the groundbreaking synthetic discoveries of the late 19th century. Ionones reproduce the violet-like fragrance of orris root at a fraction of the cost, with a velvety, powdery softness that deepens the florals and lends them a mysterious haze. In Iris Blanc, ionone acts as the connective tissue between the radiant flowers and the powder-drenched base, enhancing the natural materials while also suggesting the very essence of iris.

The base is where the fragrance takes its name to heart. Orris root concrete provides the buttery, earthy, and powdery character that gives iris perfumes their legendary elegance. Orris from Tuscany and Florence was considered the most prized, harvested from the rhizomes of the iris pallida, aged and cured for years to release its violet-like fragrance. Here, it is softened and sweetened by heliotropin, a synthetic that captures the almond-vanilla scent of heliotrope flowers. Heliotropin is at once gourmand and powdery, enhancing the creamy texture of orris and giving it a comforting, almost confectionary warmth. Alongside it, terpineol contributes its lilac-like floral tone, fresh and subtly woody, expanding the floral spectrum into something both airy and long-lasting. The interplay of natural and synthetic is what makes the base so compelling—orris with its regal earthiness, heliotropin with its soft almond-powder sweetness, and terpineol with its crystalline floral lift.

Together, Iris Blanc feels like a study in contrast: the sparkle of fruit against balsamic wood, the lushness of exotic florals softened by violet powder, and the creamy elegance of orris enriched by heliotropin’s almond warmth. In the late 19th century, this combination would have seemed modern yet romantic, a fragrance that bridged the old world of natural extractions with the new frontier of synthetics. To smell it is to step into a refined powdery floral dream—airy yet grounded, natural yet enhanced—capturing both the grace of iris and the daring of innovation.

Bottles:

Presented in the carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1914.

Double Extrait d'Acacia 1840

Double Extrait d’Acacia by Guerlain, introduced in 1840, stands as one of the house’s earliest demonstrations of refinement and innovation. The name itself — Double Extrait d’Acacia (pronounced DOO-bluh ex-TRAY dah-kah-SEE-ah) — is French, meaning “Double Extract of Acacia.” In 19th-century perfumery, the term “double extrait” indicated a highly concentrated, luxurious preparation, often richer and longer-lasting than a standard eau or cologne. The phrase immediately evokes the image of abundance — a scent twice as deep, twice as velvety, capturing the full bloom of the golden acacia under the soft light of spring. It conjures emotion through its dual nature: gentleness and strength, delicacy and intensity, an embrace between innocence and sensuality.

The year 1840 places this perfume within the Romantic era, a time when Europe was swept up in art, poetry, and sentiment. Paris — then the heart of taste and luxury — was moving from the austerity of the early 19th century into a world of refinement and ornament. The July Monarchy under Louis-Philippe fostered stability and elegance; fashion favored fitted silk gowns, delicate lace collars, and soft pastel tones. Women of the period idealized nature, grace, and moral beauty — qualities mirrored in the tender fragrance of acacia. Perfumery, still a relatively artisanal craft, was deeply tied to natural materials. Essences were extracted through enfleurage, maceration, and distillation, producing gentle yet richly complex aromas that reflected the botanical world rather than abstract compositions.

To a woman in 1840, Double Extrait d’Acacia would have represented refinement and modern luxury. Acacia was then a fashionable floral note, celebrated for its soft, powdery sweetness and faintly almond-like undertone. Its scent carried associations of purity, modesty, and springtime bloom, yet also of a subtle sensuality that whispered beneath its freshness. The idea of a double extract suggested exclusivity — a perfume made with more essence, richer oils, and greater craftsmanship. To wear it was to signal not only taste but also discernment, a participation in the evolving world of perfumery that was beginning to move beyond mere toilet waters toward true artistic compositions.

The word “Acacia” itself would have evoked luminous imagery: clusters of creamy yellow blossoms trembling in the sun, bees hovering over honeyed petals, the faint shimmer of pollen carried by a warm southern breeze. Its fragrance — gentle yet pervasive — translated into scent the ideal of the 1840s woman: graceful, refined, and radiant without ostentation. The acacia flower, known for its resilience and sweetness, became a natural muse for perfumers who sought to capture both tenderness and endurance in their creations.

When Guerlain released Double Extrait d’Acacia, acacia-based perfumes were already beloved across Europe. Nearly every perfumer of note offered some version of the scent, usually built around floral absolutes, resins, and tinctures of natural origin. Recipes for Eau d’Acacia and Extrait d’Acacia circulated widely in professional formularies of the period, but each house sought to personalize the composition — adding hints of mimosa, violet, orange blossom, or rose to distinguish their version. Guerlain’s refinement lay in the name “Double Extrait” itself, implying a superior strength and purity. His version likely employed a higher concentration of floral materials, perhaps blended with light balsams or musks to give greater depth and longevity.

At the time, perfumery had not yet entered the synthetic age — that revolution would come decades later with the discovery of coumarin (in 1868) and vanillin (in the 1870s). Thus, Double Extrait d’Acacia was wholly a child of the natural world, relying on tinctures, infusions, and essential oils. Yet it also anticipated what was to come: the desire to intensify, to fix, to capture nature’s fleeting breath and make it last. This pursuit of concentration — of the double extract — was, in essence, a prelude to the very spirit of modern perfumery.

In its time, Double Extrait d’Acacia would have been admired not for its novelty, but for its refinement. It did not break from contemporary trends so much as elevate them. Within its softly glowing bottle, Guerlain distilled the poetry of acacia into something lasting and luminous — a perfume that reflected both the Romantic imagination of its age and the meticulous craftsmanship that would define his legacy for centuries to come.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Double Extrait d'Acacia is classified as an oriental woody floral (amber floral) fragrance.

• Top notes: French acacia, Australian eucalyptus, Calabrian bergamot, Hungarian clary sage oil, Provencal lavender, anise, anisic aldehyde, Moroccan mimosa
• Middle notes: Grasse jasmine absolute, Grasse rose otto, Florentine orris, Mysore sandalwood, Sudanese myrrh, Somali olibanum, Omani frankincense, Maltese labdanum, Mediterranean cypress oil   
• Base notes: Tonkin musk tincture, musk xylene, musk ketone, Indian musk ambrette, Tyrolean oakmoss resin, Malaysian patchouli oil, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Siam benzoin, coumarin, Peru balsam, South American tolu balsam, ambergris tincture, ambreine, Canadian castoreum, Abyssinian civet  

Scent Profile:

Double Extrait d’Acacia unfolds like a perfumed manuscript of the 19th century — each note a paragraph of history, geography, and chemistry, intertwined. It opens with a luminous, honeyed breeze of French acacia, whose blossoms release a powdery, slightly almondy sweetness reminiscent of early spring mornings in Provence. Acacia’s main aromatic molecules, such as benzyl alcohol and anisaldehyde, lend the fragrance its soft, floral warmth, while the addition of anisic aldehyde enhances this natural profile — heightening the floral-vanillic glow and giving the opening a silken polish only possible through the union of nature and early synthetic chemistry.

Drifting through the upper notes is the cool, camphorous sharpness of Australian eucalyptus, with its cineole-rich vapors cutting through the sweetness like sunlight through mist. Its clarity contrasts beautifully with the luscious Calabrian bergamot, whose zest contains linalyl acetate and limonene — natural molecules that shimmer with green, citrusy radiance. Together, they give the composition an effervescent brightness before the warmth deepens. From Hungary, the herbaceous, nutty tones of clary sage oil rise; its sclareol content introduces a leathery undertone that bridges seamlessly into the later animalics. 

Provençal lavender, rich in linalool and coumarin, lends both serenity and structure — its blue haze of aroma binding the herbal, sweet, and woody facets. The faint whisper of anise, with its sweet licorice-like anethole, intertwines with acacia and mimosa, creating an airy floral gourmand effect, while Moroccan mimosa, with its creamy, honey-drenched blossoms, softens the sharper herbal edges. Moroccan varieties are prized for their powdery, violet-like nuance, achieved through natural compounds like methyl anthranilate and ionones — a profile that gives the perfume its tender golden hue.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart blossoms into a lavish floral symphony from Grasse, the cradle of French perfumery. Grasse jasmine absolute, rich in indole, benzyl acetate, and cis-jasmone, imparts a narcotic, honeyed sensuality — the olfactory embodiment of sun-warmed petals. Grasse rose otto joins it, opulent and full-bodied, its geraniol and citronellol lending dewy freshness while eugenol provides a subtle clove-like spice. 

The buttery, violet-powder depth of Florentine orris follows, its irones giving the composition a refined, suede-like softness. Beneath the florals, the sacred resins emerge — Mysore sandalwood, with its creamy santalols, radiates warmth and calm, its texture smooth and resinous. The sacred trio of Sudanese myrrh, Somali olibanum, and Omani frankincense weave a resinous tapestry — balsamic, smoky, and slightly peppered — enriched by the leathery amber of Maltese labdanum and the clean, green bitterness of Mediterranean cypress oil, which adds architectural structure to this rich middle section.

The base is an intoxicating descent into the depths of 19th-century perfumery — a world built upon the alchemy of nature and artifice. The Tonkin musk tincture, soft and animalic, merges with musk xylene and musk ketone, early synthetic musks that amplify the natural warmth, extending its longevity while smoothing the edges. The vegetal sweetness of Indian musk ambrette, rich in ambrettolide, adds a delicate, skin-like sensuality. 

The forest floor character of Tyrolean oakmoss resin and Malaysian patchouli oil introduces earthy, damp richness — mossy, smoky, and grounding. Mexican vanilla, warm and gourmand with vanillin, is mirrored and enhanced by synthetic vanillin, its crystalline purity brightening the natural extract. Siam benzoin and Peru balsam contribute balsamic sweetness, while South American tolu balsam adds caramel and spice. Coumarin, one of the earliest synthetic notes discovered in tonka beans, binds these creamy accords with almond and hay-like softness.

Finally, ambergris tincture and its molecular counterpart ambreine impart the shimmering, oceanic radiance of true amber — saline, soft, and glowing. The final animalics — Canadian castoreum and Abyssinian civet — lend the faintest growl, warm and intimate, reminiscent of fine leather and skin. These elements give the fragrance its unmistakable 19th-century character: opulent, sensual, and alive.

Double Extrait d’Acacia, in its full orchestration, evokes not only the sweet floral breath of spring but also the velvet shadows of antique salons, incense smoke, and polished wood. It is both a botanical portrait and an olfactory sonata — the embodiment of perfumery’s golden age, where nature’s essence was refined through the emerging artistry of chemistry.

Bottles:

This is a super rare perfume this is the first time I have seen this particular perfume from Guerlain, though the bottle design known as the Flacon Carre, dates from 1879 onwards and was made by Pochet et du Courval, this bottle actually dates to after 1914 based on the label bearing the 68, Champs-Elysees Paris for the Guerlain boutique, prior to this move, older labels are marked with 15, Rue de la Paix.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1914.

Insolence- Crazy Touch Flacon 2014

In 2014, Guerlain introduced Insolence “Crazy Touch”, a playful and exuberant limited-edition collector’s bottle that reimagined the house’s modern classic with a touch of audacity. While the fragrance inside remained the original Insolence Eau de Toilette—a vibrant blend of violets, red berries, and iris—the visual presentation was entirely refreshed to capture the daring, flirtatious spirit that defines the scent.

The 50 ml Eau de Toilette was presented in the signature curvaceous Insolence flacon, a design known for its swirling, concentric glass forms that evoke the movement of petals in bloom. For this edition, Guerlain added a spirited twist: the base of the bottle was screen-printed with lively pink polka dots, creating a sense of motion and fun that danced across the clear glass. The pattern, at once whimsical and chic, seemed to capture the essence of “crazy touch” — a joyful rebellion against convention, full of feminine energy and charm.

Described by Guerlain as “a whirlwind of bold and exuberant pink spots,” this edition celebrated the youthful confidence and daring sensuality that Insolence embodies. More than a fragrance, Insolence Crazy Touch was a statement piece — an invitation to embrace color, laughter, and unapologetic self-expression, wrapped in the timeless elegance of Guerlain craftsmanship.

 

Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde c2014

Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde by Guerlain, launched in 2014 and crafted by Thierry Wasser, is a sparkling citrus aromatic fragrance designed for both women and men. The name Limon Verde, Italian and Spanish for “green lime,” immediately evokes images of sun-drenched tropical orchards, the zesty tang of freshly cut limes, and the effervescent energy of a Caipirinha cocktail on a riverbank. Pronounced as "LEE-mon VER-day", the name suggests freshness, vibrancy, and a playful, invigorating quality that mirrors the lively citrus heart of the fragrance itself.

From the first spray, Limon Verde reveals the bright, tart scent of lime, sourced traditionally from Brazil or the West Indies, where the fruits thrive under tropical sun. The essence is typically cold-pressed from the rind, producing a sharp, sparkling aroma rich in limonene, a key aroma compound that imparts its zesty, green facets. In perfumery, lime is valued for its uplifting, energizing qualities, and in Limon Verde it pairs harmoniously with complementary citrus and green notes, creating a fresh, invigorating introduction that immediately awakens the senses.

 

As the composition unfolds, its heart continues to radiate a tropical vibrancy. The aromatic structure balances lime with other citrus nuances and subtle green notes, conjuring the feeling of sunlight filtering through leaves along the Amazon, mingled with the sparkling effervescence of a freshly prepared cocktail. The fragrance evokes playfulness, optimism, and a carefree, spirited energy, perfectly suited to the contemporary fashion and lifestyle trends of 2014, a time when natural freshness and effervescent, unisex fragrances were highly celebrated in the perfume world.

The base of Limon Verde subtly anchors its brightness with soft, naturalistic undertones that provide a sense of continuity without diminishing the airy, vivacious top notes. While its composition emphasizes tropical freshness rather than depth or complexity, the use of fine aroma chemicals ensures longevity and clarity, enhancing the natural lime and green accords without overpowering them. In context, Limon Verde fits beautifully within the Aqua Allegoria line, which celebrates single-note or duo-note interpretations of natural essences, and aligns with the 2010s trend toward vibrant, approachable, and gender-neutral citrus fragrances. The result is a perfume that captures both the physical essence and emotional sensation of a lush, sunlit tropical escape, combining effervescence, elegance, and a touch of playful sophistication.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde is classified as a citrus aromatic fragrance for women and men.

• Top note: lime
• Middle notes: green notes, tropical fruit, fig and sugar cane
• Base note: tonka bean

Scent Profile:

Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde by Guerlain is a luminous, citrus aromatic fragrance that immediately transports the senses to a tropical oasis. At the very first spritz, the lime bursts forth—its bright, tart, and sparkling character reminiscent of freshly sliced fruit under the warm sun. Traditionally sourced from Brazil or the West Indies, these limes are prized for their intensely zesty aroma, rich in limonene and citral, compounds that impart their signature vibrant, green, and slightly bitter facets. This initial citrus clarity is the heart of the fragrance, awakening the senses with an energizing, joyful lift that feels both crisp and natural.

As the scent settles, the heart notes reveal a lush, verdant complexity. Green notes evoke the smell of dewy leaves and freshly cut grass, while tropical fruit adds a juicy sweetness reminiscent of sun-ripened mangoes or pineapple. Fig contributes its rich, milky, and slightly green aroma, blending harmoniously with the sugar cane note, which offers a soft, gourmand-like sweetness. Together, these midnotes create an intoxicatingly fresh and vibrant bouquet that is at once playful, exotic, and grounded in nature’s richness. The combination of natural essences and fine aroma chemicals ensures that the tropical nuances are enhanced, their brightness sustained, and their juiciness made more vivid, without ever feeling artificial.

The dry-down introduces the warm, comforting depth of tonka bean, sourced from the fertile soils of South America, particularly Venezuela and Brazil. Rich in coumarin, tonka bean contributes sweet, balsamic, and slightly nutty nuances that anchor the airy top and middle notes, offering a gentle sophistication to the composition. The inclusion of synthetics here subtly amplifies the tonka’s warmth and longevity, allowing the initial citrus brightness and green vivacity to linger with a soft, lingering trail.

Overall, Limon Verde embodies a harmonious journey: the sharp exhilaration of lime, the verdant, juicy richness of tropical fruits and fig, and the warm, sweet embrace of tonka bean. It is a fragrance that captures both the playful energy of a sunlit tropical landscape and the refined elegance characteristic of Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria line, offering a unisex, approachable, and vibrantly modern aromatic experience.

Bottles:

Originally available as:

• 75 ml Eau de Toilette
• 125 ml Eau de Toilette

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued in 2017.

Oeillet 000 c1880

Oeillet 000 by Guerlain, launched around 1880, takes its name from the French word œillet (pronounced uh-yay), meaning carnation—a blossom long associated with love, passion, and refinement. The addition of “000,” or Triple Extrait, signified the perfume’s remarkable strength and purity, a mark of luxury and exclusivity. In essence, Oeillet 000 translates to Triple Extract of Carnation, a name that promised depth, richness, and intensity far beyond ordinary floral waters. To the 19th-century woman, this was a statement of elegant sensuality, a scent that embodied both boldness and grace.

The word œillet evokes vivid imagery—velvety red petals tinged with clove, their spicy sweetness unfolding in soft waves. It conjures emotions of romance and vitality, yet also discipline and polish; for in Victorian culture, the carnation symbolized devotion and admiration, a flower worn by gentlemen in buttonholes and adored by women for its lingering, peppery perfume. The name “Oeillet 000” suggests something both precise and indulgent—a scent crafted with care, yet opulent enough to intoxicate the senses.

The year 1880 fell within the Belle Époque, a period of cultural flourishing in France marked by elegance, optimism, and innovation. Paris was the world’s capital of luxury, where fashion, cosmetics, and perfume were integral to self-expression. Women’s dress at the time was elaborate—corseted bodices, trailing skirts, and silken gloves—and perfume served as the invisible complement to this visual splendor. Guerlain’s Oeillet 000 would have suited the sophisticated woman of this era—poised, socially aware, and drawn to the refined sensuality that only a house like Guerlain could produce.

In perfumery, carnation fragrances were already admired for their warm, spicy floral character, but Guerlain’s Triple Extrait stood apart for its exceptional concentration and polish. While many perfumeries of the period offered oeillet perfumes, Guerlain elevated the form by refining the balance between natural carnation absolutes and emerging synthetics such as eugenol and isoeugenol—aroma compounds found in clove and ylang ylang that replicate the flower’s distinctive, spicy profile. These synthetics enhanced the perfume’s complexity, lending it a luminous warmth and long-lasting vibrancy that natural materials alone could not achieve.

In scent, Oeillet 000 would have opened with the peppery sparkle of fresh carnation petals, softened by traces of clove and rose. The heart likely bloomed into a lush bouquet of warm florals, underscored by powdery notes and a faintly balsamic sweetness. As it settled on the skin, the perfume would reveal a velvety, ambery base, its spiciness mellowed by soft woods and musk—a composition both bold and romantic, perfectly suited to the refined yet passionate sensibilities of the era.

In the context of 19th-century perfumery, Oeillet 000 both aligned with contemporary floral trends and transcended them through its concentration and technical artistry. Guerlain’s mastery lay in transforming familiar floral themes into olfactory luxury—taking something traditional, like the carnation, and rendering it sublime through precision, imagination, and depth. Oeillet 000 was not merely a perfume; it was an expression of craftsmanship and identity, the scent of a woman who understood beauty as both art and power.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Oeillet 000 is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: carnation, eugenol, orange blossom, cassie
• Middle notes: clove, isoeugenol, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang 
• Base notes: vanilla, civet, storax

Scent Profile:

To smell Oeillet 000 is to encounter a fragrance that seems to smolder softly in the air—a velvety, spicy floral that fuses warmth and elegance with the precise craftsmanship that defined Guerlain’s 19th-century artistry. It opens with the unmistakable fire of carnation, the flower that inspired its name, whose scent is not purely floral but textured with spice, clove, and a faint medicinal sweetness. The carnation note—drawn from natural extracts and enriched by eugenol, a key molecule also found in clove—creates the perfume’s signature duality: at once feminine and assertive, a bloom with both beauty and bite. This opening is lifted by a breath of orange blossom, radiant and honeyed, which softens the carnation’s sharper edges and brings a gentle sunlight warmth to the first impression. Alongside, cassie (from the acacia tree of Egypt and southern France) adds a powdery, mimosa-like greenness with faint violet and almond undertones, grounding the brightness with a natural, skin-like warmth.

As the perfume unfolds, the spicy facets deepen. Clove—rich, dark, and aromatic—merges with isoeugenol, a synthetic molecule developed to echo the natural oil but with a smoother, rounder profile. Together, they amplify the floral fire of carnation, giving it both longevity and luminosity. The middle notes bloom with rose, jasmine, and ylang ylang, each contributing a different shade of sensuality: the rose lending its classic, powdery romance; jasmine infusing a narcotic, indolic depth; and ylang ylang from the Comoros islands bringing a creamy, almost banana-like lushness. These tropical blossoms, with their natural components such as benzyl acetate, linalool, and methyl anthranilate, form a luxurious heart that transforms the sharp clove notes into something rounder and more feminine. The interplay between these natural essences and their synthetic counterparts—particularly the eugenol derivatives—creates a harmony of heat and softness, mimicking the living carnation more faithfully than nature alone could provide.

As it settles, Oeillet 000 becomes warmer, more intimate, and deeply sensual. The base glows with vanilla, its sweetness thickened by the balsamic tones of storax, a resin prized for its leathery, smoky warmth. Civet, in minute quantity, adds a faintly animalic undertone—an echo of skin, warmth, and luxury—that transforms the floral spiciness into something profoundly human and tactile. This was a hallmark of Guerlain’s work: a subtle sensuality that never shouted, but lingered like a secret.

The effect is of a fragrance alive with contrast—floral yet spicy, warm yet polished, natural yet artfully refined. You can almost imagine the materials themselves: the spiced air of a Parisian boudoir, the gleam of cut carnations in crystal vases, and the soft rustle of silk as perfume warms against the skin. Oeillet 000 was more than a scent; it was a sensory portrait of 19th-century femininity, rendered in clove, rose, and amber light.

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre Flacon (parfum) and the flacon Goutte (eau de toilette).

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1931 (as just Oeillet).

Ladies In All Climates - Face Powder 1897

Once upon a time, in the elegant year of 1897, Guerlain introduced a remarkable innovation in beauty — Ladies in All Climates, a universal light powder designed to illuminate and refresh the complexion. At a moment when Impressionist painters were capturing the fleeting shimmer of light and photography was beginning to reveal subtle gradations of tone and shadow, Guerlain sought to do the same for the skin. This powder was a poetic interpretation of light itself — a beauty product that mirrored the way sunlight played across a landscape or the way soft shadows curved along the cheek.

The creation of Ladies in All Climates was more than cosmetic; it was cultural. During the late 19th century, travel was becoming increasingly possible for women. Steamships, railways, and new modes of transport opened the world to the adventurous and the refined alike. Guerlain, ever attuned to the needs of the modern woman, envisioned a powder that could accompany her across every latitude — from the soft mists of Paris to the blazing sun of the French colonies. Wherever she went, this delicate veil of powder promised to preserve her complexion’s freshness and grace.

At the time, pale skin was a mark of refinement, and sun exposure was considered unladylike. Ladies in All Climates was therefore more than a vanity item; it was a form of protection — a means to maintain the aristocratic pallor admired in the Belle Époque. Guerlain’s formula helped women retain their fair coloring even under tropical skies, combining lightness, refinement, and a subtle radiance that seemed to filter the face through a soft-focus lens, much like the art and photography that inspired it. The powder was originally available in four shades: White, Rachel, Pink, and Flesh.

The powder’s name itself was a declaration of universality — Ladies in All Climates — a phrase that spoke to inclusivity before its time. It suggested a beauty without borders, adaptable to all women, whatever their origin, wherever they might be. Guerlain’s genius lay not only in his formulas but in his understanding of the modern woman’s aspirations: her wish to move freely, to explore, and yet to remain effortlessly composed.

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Harper's Weekly, 1903:

"Beware all face powders which have the effect of whitening too much. The major part of these powders contain chemically active constituents which in time spoil the skin. Guerlain's powder 'Ladies in all Climates' is a product which is absolutely harmless, it vivifies the complexion and my ladies, prudence counsels you not to seek further effects from its use."

The Queenslander, Saturday 25 December 1915:

"Guerlain (15 Rue de la Paix, Paris) With his most respectful compliments calls attention to his POWDER. LADIES IN ALL CLIMATES. This Powder, which is made in four shades, White, Rachael, Pink, and Flesh Colour, is an absolutely neutral product; it cannot affect in any way the epidermis. Moreover, it is soft, and has a very agreeable perfume. It is so much neutral that it can be used during any medical treatment, even with sulphurous baths."

2013 Limited Edition:

In 2013, Guerlain paid homage to its storied past by reissuing one of its most legendary creations — Ladies in All Climates — in an exclusive limited edition of only 400 numbered pieces. This modern reinterpretation was more than a revival; it was a tribute to over a century of Guerlain’s artistry in the delicate craft of face powders. Carefully recreated with the same spirit of refinement as the 1897 original, the 2013 edition sought to veil the skin in the same luminous softness, evoking that timeless impression of freshness and poise that defined the Belle Époque woman.

Each compact was a work of art in itself, echoing the luxurious craftsmanship and design sensibilities that have long distinguished Guerlain. The powder within retained its ethereal quality — an ultra-fine texture that seemed to dissolve upon application, leaving the complexion haloed in a transparent light, as if touched by the softest morning sun. Its transparency was key: neither matte nor glistening, it lent a natural radiance, a voile de lumière that enhanced the skin rather than masking it.

By releasing only 400 pieces, Guerlain transformed the reissue into a collector’s treasure, an object that celebrated both beauty and heritage. The limited numbering underscored its exclusivity, linking each compact to a lineage that stretched back more than a century — to a time when women carried their Guerlain powders in silver or tortoiseshell cases as symbols of sophistication and travel-ready elegance.

In this 2013 edition, Guerlain achieved a delicate balance between tradition and innovation. The powder captured the same light-infused philosophy of the original Ladies in All Climates, while benefiting from modern advances in texture and formulation. It was a powder designed not only to beautify but to evoke — to remind the wearer of an era when makeup was an art, a ritual, and an expression of timeless grace.