Guerlarose c1930

Guerlarose, launched in 1930, is a name that fuses the Guerlain legacy with the timeless beauty of the rose. The word itself is French—pronounced simply as "Gair-la-rose"—and translates quite literally to “Guerlain Rose.” It reads like both a declaration and a signature, as if Guerlain were claiming its own interpretation of the queen of flowers. The name evokes images of freshly cut roses opening their velvet petals at dawn, dewy with the first light, but also carries the weight of refinement, heritage, and a distinctly Parisian elegance.

The year 1930 situates the fragrance at the dawn of the Art Deco period, a time of bold lines, glamour, and modernism. The exuberance of the Roaring Twenties had been tempered by the economic hardships of the Great Depression, but in Paris, fashion and luxury still thrived. Women embraced more streamlined silhouettes, shorter hemlines, and a liberated approach to beauty. Perfumery, too, was shifting—florals were becoming more daring, often paired with aldehydes, exotic woods, or sensual musks. Against this backdrop, Guerlarose presented a reassuringly classic yet modern floral: the eternal rose rendered through the Guerlinade’s soft, vanillic warmth.

For women of the period, a perfume called Guerlarose would have resonated on multiple levels. On one hand, the rose had long been associated with romance, femininity, and softness—a comfort in uncertain times. On the other, Guerlain’s confident branding and the perfume’s sophistication positioned it as more than just a pretty floral; it was a statement of refinement, a way of embodying the Parisian chic that women everywhere aspired to. The name itself suggested both intimacy and prestige: a rose that was not generic, but distinctly Guerlain’s.

Interpreted in scent, Guerlarose offered what its name promised: an ode to rose, elevated by Guerlain’s signature accord of vanilla, tonka, and iris. The result would not have been a simple soliflore, but a rose wrapped in powdery softness, shaded by subtle balsamic depth, and made luminous with gentle aldehydic brightness. Compared to other fragrances of the time, it balanced tradition with innovation. While floral perfumes were abundant, Guerlarose distinguished itself by layering the queenly rose over the unmistakable Guerlinade, ensuring both familiarity and originality.

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Guerlarose by Guerlain is classified as a floral fragrance for women featuring beautiful rose notes over the Guerlinade accord.

• Top notes: rose, lemon, aldehyde, bergamot, rose geranium
• Middle notes: rose, violet, jasmine, heliotrope, orange blossom
• Base notes: almond, orris, tonka bean, vanilla, ambergris, vetiver

 

Recently, I was fortunate enough to obtain a sample of Guerlarose from my good friend, Alexandra Star, who curates an impressive collection of rare antique Guerlain treasures in her Etsy shop, Parfums de Paris. For those who would like to experience the well-blended floral sweetness of this long-discontinued gem, Alexandra’s shop is a wonderful place to explore—each piece offered there is a testament to her eye for beauty and passion for perfume history.

Scent Profile:

Guerlarose opens with a radiant rose, the unmistakable queen of flowers unfolding immediately. Its aroma is lush and velvety, sweet with a slight green freshness, suggesting roses grown in Grasse, where the high sun and cool nights produce blooms rich in natural esters, giving the petals a soft, honeyed nuance. This is heightened by rose geranium, a leafier, more herbaceous counterpart that adds a green, almost minty lift, balancing the fullness of the petals and providing a gentle aromatic complexity. Lemon and bergamot bring a sparkling citrus brightness, their essential oils contributing zesty top notes that open the fragrance with a light, sunlit effervescence. Layered over this is a subtle shimmer of aldehydes, adding a crisp, slightly metallic lift that enhances the floral bouquet and gives the perfume a modern, airy elegance uncommon for its time.

At the heart, Guerlarose deepens into a floral symphony. Jasmine enriches the composition with its intoxicating indolic warmth, its oil from Egypt or India prized for richness and heady complexity. Violet provides powdery softness, ethereal and almost translucent, complementing the green-tinged rose geranium, while heliotrope contributes a gentle almond-like sweetness, softening the heart and weaving it into a comforting, enveloping floral tapestry. Orange blossom introduces a delicate, sun-kissed note with a slightly creamy facet, enhancing the natural floral brightness without overpowering the rose. Together, these florals create a harmonious, multi-dimensional bouquet, balancing intensity with elegance.

The base grounds the fragrance with warmth and sensuality. Almond, sweet and nutty, resonates alongside tonka bean, which adds balsamic sweetness enriched by vanillin-like compounds naturally present in the bean. Orris root brings a soft, powdery veil, lending the perfume a delicate iris-like dryness, while vanilla amplifies the comforting, gourmand undertones. Ambergris, a rare marine-derived note, adds subtle saltiness and animalic warmth, enhancing the floral heart and giving longevity to the perfume. Vetiver, earthy and smoky, provides depth and structure, contrasting the sweetness and powdery florals with a sophisticated, slightly woody resonance. Together, these base notes build a long-lasting, multi-layered foundation, making Guerlarose feel at once intimate and radiant.

What makes Guerlarose exceptional is the interplay of natural and synthetic elements. Aldehydes highlight the floral brightness, providing a lift that natural rose and citrus alone could not achieve, while heliotrope and tonka bean’s vanillin-like compounds work in concert with natural orris and almond to create a powdery gourmand warmth. The result is a fragrance that captures the elegance of classic roses yet feels modern, luminous, and enduring—the hallmark of Guerlain’s signature Guerlinade accord.

Smelling Guerlarose is like walking through a sun-drenched rose garden at dawn: petals soft and dewy, layered with hints of sweet almond, distant woods, and the lingering warmth of amber—a perfume that is both comforting and unforgettable.

Fashions of the Hour, 1930:

"Guerlilas and Guerlarose, are such utterly bewitching antidotes. And finally because the smart black and green boxes will perk up a dressing table no end. Each bottle holds 2 ounces. $15 apiece."

Scribner's Magazine, 1930:

"Guerlilas (lilac) and Guerlarose (rose), make most timely gifts. For what more in keeping with the present style than the discreet elegance of perfumes distilled from the flower itself? The purity of the scent remains absolutely unchanged."

 

Advertising & Selling, 1931:

"Guerlarose and Guerlilas are encased in a magnificent pillar of black and silver in alternate horizontal bands which might be the work of Brancusi himself." 

Fortune, 1931:

"Guerlilas and Guerlarose, two flower odeurs, are the latest expressions of Guerlain genius. Choose as you will, but let the fairest name on your Christmas list be the one matched with a perfume by Guerlain."

 

Bottles:

Presented in four different size ‘Guerlilas’ bottles as well as the quadrilobe flacon.

Photos from polyvore, drouot, wikipedia, basenotes, museu del perfum

Fate of the Fragrance:

Guerlarose was launched by Guerlain in 1930, during a period of both elegance and experimentation in perfumery. While the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown, records show that it was still being sold as late as 1961, giving the fragrance a market presence of at least three decades. Its enduring availability reflects both the appeal of its floral composition and Guerlain’s practice of maintaining classic scents over time, even as new launches emerged. Today, Guerlarose’s longevity on the market adds to its mystique, making it a cherished example of early 20th-century Guerlain artistry.