Jasmiralda c1912

In 1912, Guerlain introduced Jasmiralda, a perfume created by Jacques Guerlain and later launched in the United States in 1917. The name itself is a poetic invention: “Jasmiralda” is a portmanteau of “jasmine” and “Esmeralda,” the heroine of Victor Hugo’s 1831 novel Notre-Dame de Paris (The Hunchback of Notre-Dame). Pronounced as "jass-mee-RAHL-dah", the name suggests both the luminous beauty of jasmine blossoms and the exotic allure of Hugo’s gypsy dancer.

Victor Hugo’s Notre-Dame de Paris is a story of love, desire, and tragedy set against the grandeur of medieval Paris. Esmeralda, the central female figure, is a free-spirited dancer whose beauty and innocence captivate all who encounter her—most notably Quasimodo, the bell-ringer of Notre Dame, and the priest Claude Frollo. The novel’s dramatic interplay of purity, sensuality, and doomed passion makes Esmeralda an enduring symbol of untamed femininity and fatal charm. Naming a fragrance Jasmiralda aligned Guerlain with this literary mystique, evoking images of romance, beauty, and exotic enchantment.

The word Jasmiralda itself evokes vivid imagery: a cascade of white jasmine blossoms glowing in moonlight, infused with an emerald-green vibrancy that hints at passion and intrigue. It was said to be Jacques Guerlain's favorite flower. It carries both softness and intensity, conjuring emotions of femininity, allure, and an almost otherworldly radiance. As a name, it suggested not only the scent of jasmine but also the idea of a woman who was captivating, mysterious, and untouchable.

The perfume’s debut in 1912 placed it at the twilight of the Belle Époque, a period characterized by artistic flourishing, opulent fashions, and cultural optimism before the devastation of World War I. Women’s fashion was shifting from the structured silhouettes of the late 19th century to the freer, more fluid lines of Paul Poiret and Mariano Fortuny. Flowing gowns, oriental-inspired textiles, and an embrace of exoticism were at the forefront of style. In perfumery, florals dominated—violet, rose, lilac, and, increasingly, jasmine were popular, often presented with soft, powdery accords that mirrored the elegance of the era.

To women of the time, Jasmiralda would have embodied both modernity and romantic escapism. The Belle Époque fascination with the exotic and the literary made the name instantly evocative, transporting wearers into Hugo’s world of passion and beauty. The fragrance’s dominant jasmine note would have been interpreted as lush, feminine, and sensual, yet softened into a refined floral suitable for daily wear. In scent terms, Jasmiralda was jasmine transformed into character: luminous and innocent at first breath, yet possessing a depth that hinted at seduction and tragedy.

In the context of other perfumes on the market, Jasmiralda was not radically unusual, as soft florals—especially jasmine-forward compositions—were already in vogue. Yet Jacques Guerlain’s interpretation carried the refinement and artistic vision for which the house was already becoming renowned. By anchoring the fragrance in a name that blended natural beauty (jasmine) with literary romance (Esmeralda), Guerlain distinguished it from more generic floral perfumes. It was both of its time and slightly ahead of it, laying the groundwork for Guerlain’s later explorations of sensual florals in the 1920s and beyond.

    

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Jasmiralda by Guerlain is classified as a soft floral perfume for women with a dominant jasmine note.

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Tunisian neroli, Portugal sweet orange, linalool, limonene, Egyptian jasmine 
• Middle notes: Grasse jasmine sambac, indole, benzyl acetate, methyl anthranilate, cis-jasmone, rose, De Laire's Bouvardia base, Tuscan violet 
• Base notes: ambergris, Tyrolean oakmoss, Mexican vanilla, Venezuelan tonka bean, Haitian vetiver, Tonkin deer musk, Abyssinian civet, Siam benzoin

Recently, I was fortunate enough to obtain a sample of Guerlain’s Jasmiralda from my good friend Alexandra Star, a dedicated collector who curates an impressive array of rare antique Guerlain treasures in her Etsy shop, Parfums de Paris. Alexandra’s shop is a haven for perfume enthusiasts who appreciate the artistry and history behind these elusive creations. If you’re curious to experience the sweet, bubblegum-like deliciousness of Jasmiralda for yourself—or simply wish to browse through a selection of remarkable vintage finds—I highly recommend taking a stroll through her offerings. Each piece carries with it not only fragrance but also a touch of Guerlain’s storied past.

Scent Profile:

When first inhaling Jasmiralda by Guerlain, the fragrance greets you with an airy sparkle, shimmering with citrus and white flowers. Calabrian bergamot, prized for its radiant balance of tartness and floral nuance, unfurls with a green-tinged brightness, while Portugal’s sweet orange layers in juicy, sun-soaked sweetness. Tunisian neroli, distilled from bitter orange blossoms, lends honeyed softness tinged with a slight green sharpness, its quality distinguished by the country’s warm Mediterranean climate that produces flowers rich in both freshness and depth. Supporting these naturals are linalool and limonene, aroma molecules abundant in citrus peels. Linalool imparts a smooth floral transparency that cushions the sharper citrus facets, while limonene amplifies the zesty sparkle. Even at this stage, Egyptian jasmine begins to glow through—lush, creamy, and faintly indolic, hinting at the opulence to come.

The heart is where Jasmiralda reveals its most memorable quality: a bubblegum-like sweetness born of jasmine’s natural chemistry. Grasse jasmine sambac, harvested in Provence’s legendary fields, is the star—lush and narcotic, with fruity facets that lean toward apricot and banana. Within jasmine’s molecular makeup lie benzyl acetate and methyl anthranilate—two compounds central to the “candy” impression. Benzyl acetate brings a juicy, grape-like brightness, while methyl anthranilate is famously reminiscent of Concord grapes and artificial grape candies, lending the composition its playful, bubblegum sparkle. Balancing this sweetness is cis-jasmone, which contributes a slightly bitter, green-tea nuance, keeping the fragrance from becoming cloying. Indole, another natural constituent of jasmine, adds a sensual, almost animalic undertone, evoking blossoms in full bloom under the sun. Alongside jasmine, rose lends velvety softness, while Tuscan violet, with its ionone-rich powdery sweetness, enhances the candied floral tones.

Perhaps most fascinating in this heart is De Laire’s Bouvardia base, one of the legendary proprietary accords created by the French house De Laire in the late 19th century. Bouvardia flowers themselves are rarely used in perfumery, so De Laire’s base reimagines their scent: a creamy, warm floral accord of rose, jasmine, orange blossom and violet ionones with facets of spice, fruit, and soft woods. This base brought consistency, richness, and longevity to perfumes, and in Jasmiralda it acts as a bridge—deepening the jasmine while cushioning it with a velvety sweetness that amplifies the “confectionary” quality of the perfume.

As the fragrance settles, the base provides both grounding and mystery. Ambergris, historically valued for its marine, salty warmth, lends radiance and diffusion, making the florals glow from within. Tyrolean oakmoss, sourced from alpine forests, contributes an earthy, slightly leathery mossiness that contrasts beautifully with the candied heart. Mexican vanilla infuses a rich gourmand depth, creamy and resinous, while Venezuelan tonka bean provides coumarin, a molecule with almond-hay sweetness that ties back to jasmine’s bubblegum-like aura. Haitian vetiver adds a smoky-grassy thread, cutting through the gourmand richness with elegance. Then come the animalics: Tonkin deer musk (now replaced by ethical recreations) gives warmth and sensuality, while Abyssinian civet offers a slightly leathery, carnal purr. Finally, Siam benzoin, with its balsamic, caramel-vanilla sweetness, rounds the perfume in a resinous glow, leaving behind a trail that is both playful and profoundly sensual.

The bubblegum facet of Jasmiralda emerges from this unique interplay: jasmine’s natural esters (benzyl acetate and methyl anthranilate) mingling with the fruity sweetness of orange, the powdery lift of violet ionones, and the creamy softness of the Bouvardia base. The effect is both unexpected and enchanting—a floral that behaves like candy, yet anchored in the elegance and complexity of Guerlain’s golden age of perfumery. It is jasmine transformed into something whimsical and daring, at once innocent and carnal, lighthearted yet steeped in luxury.

 

Bottles:

Jasmiralda was presented in the elegant Flacon Bouchon Fleurs (Floral Stopper Bottle), used between 1914 and 1950, a design that perfectly captured the romantic spirit of its inspiration. The stopper, adorned with delicate floral motifs, echoed the lush bouquet within, while the graceful proportions of the glass lent a timeless refinement. Surviving examples appear in at least two different sizes, offering collectors a glimpse into Guerlain’s dedication to artistry in presentation. Later, beginning in 1923, the eau de toilette version was offered in the streamlined Goutte flacon, whose teardrop silhouette reflected the house’s move toward modern elegance while still preserving the sense of delicacy and sophistication that defined Guerlain’s early 20th-century creations.

 

Fragrance Composition:

Jasmiralda was eventually discontinued, though the exact date remains uncertain. Archival evidence confirms that it was still available as late as 1941, suggesting that the fragrance enjoyed a relatively long presence within Guerlain’s catalog. Its disappearance likely reflected the shifting tastes of the mid-20th century, when heavier, musky florals gave way to newer styles and modern compositions, yet Jasmiralda’s legacy endures as one of Guerlain’s most romantic and distinctive early creations.