Kadine c1911

 Kadine by Guerlain was launched in 1911, a perfume steeped in both personal history and cultural imagination. Gabriel Guerlain created it in tribute to Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma (1870–1899), Princess consort of Bulgaria, who was known for her devotion to the art of fragrance. From the gardens she tended, Marie Louise distilled what Gabriel Guerlain himself remarked no Parisian perfumer could obtain in such purity: the true essence of Bulgarian roses, unadulterated and intoxicating. Her family heritage also linked her to Parma violets, cultivated to capture their delicate, powdery sweetness in near-perfect form. But above all, she adored iris. While perfumers of the day used orris powder from its roots, she longed for something more elusive—a liquid iris note with depth and nuance, enriched with subtle tonalities and even a hint of citrus dissonance. Guerlain, whom she considered a friend, undertook the challenge and composed Kadine, a fragrance that embodied her vision of beauty and refinement.

The name “Kadine” draws its inspiration from the Ottoman Empire. In Turkish, Kadın (pronounced kah-DEEN) signifies a woman, but in the context of the Sultan’s court, a Kadine was more than that—she was a favorite, a consort elevated within the harem to the rank of wife. The name thus carried connotations of allure, privilege, and mystery. Jacques Guerlain, during a visit to the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, is said to have been struck by the portrait of a Kadine—her beauty, presence, and rumored sensitivity to scent left a deep impression. Naming the perfume Kadine evoked not only exoticism and opulence but also the power of fragrance to elevate and distinguish. To women in Paris of 1911, the word would have suggested an intoxicating blend of romance, Eastern luxury, and feminine power.

The year 1911 fell within the Belle Époque, a period in France defined by prosperity, innovation, and flourishing culture. Fashion, shaped by designers such as Paul Poiret, was moving away from the rigid corseted silhouettes of the 19th century toward freer, more fluid forms inspired by Orientalism. The exoticism of the East was a dominant motif—rich fabrics, jewel-toned colors, and flowing drapery set the stage for perfumes that echoed this fascination with the mysterious and the foreign. Women who wore Kadine would have felt they were stepping into this world of modern elegance tinged with Oriental fantasy, asserting both refinement and individuality.

Interpreted in scent, the word Kadine translates into a powdery, aromatic floral fragrance, rich in violets and iris. The Parma violet note lent the perfume its tender, velvety sweetness—cool, powdery, and romantic—while the Florentine orris root provided a creamy, earthy depth, giving body and persistence to the composition. Together, they created an accord that was both sophisticated and unmistakably feminine. The fragrance was designed not as a fleeting floral but as a textured, layered creation, with “fugitive half-tones” and subtle contrasts—qualities that mirrored the complexity of the name itself.

In the context of perfumery in the early 20th century, Kadine was at once of its time and distinct. Powdery florals were very much in vogue—violet especially, with iconic scents such as Coty’s L’Origan (1905) and Jacinthe or Muguet-based compositions reflecting this trend. Yet Kadine distinguished itself by elevating the violet with the noble iris, weaving in an aromatic sophistication that was less common. Guerlain’s choice to emphasize iris also foreshadowed a theme that would become central to the house’s identity, seen later in Après l’Ondée and L’Heure Bleue. Thus, while it fit seamlessly into the fashions of its day, Kadine carried the unique Guerlain signature that ensured it would stand apart.

  

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Kadine by Guerlain is classified as a powdery aromatic floral fragrance for women. It was heavy on the iris note, obtained by Florentine orris roots.

• Top notes: anise, Calabrian bergamot, Parma violet, aromatic notes, Portugal orange
• Heart notes: Florentine iris, Grasse jasmine, Bulgarian rose, Indian carnation, leather, Florentine orris, Parma violet leaf
• Base notes: Tonkin musk, almond, Mexican vanilla

Evening Star, 1913:

"Kadine is an iris, but so fragrant and lasting, so arranged and dressed up, that it seems a queen of odors."

A 1914 edition of Pearson's Magazine has this to say about the creation of Kadine.

"Perfumes were a hobby with her. From her gardens, she distilled what Gabriel Guerlain says no Paris perfumer is able to buy unadulterated - the true concentrated essence of Bulgarian roses. Parma violets, the invention of her family, yielded her almost their exact fragrance. Above all, she loved the iris, the flag or fleur de luce of the old French Kings. Orris powder from the root is known to all; but no perfumer had succeeded in producing what the delicate fancy of Marie Louise hit on - a concentrated liquid iris that was not insipid, a central iris decorated with fugitive half-tones and a tantalizing suspicion of orange for dissonance. Gabriel Guerlain, that grand old artiste whom she called her friend, made it up for her under the name "Kadine", which is Turkish or Bulgarian for "queen" and "woman"; and such it was finally destined to become a precious modern scent. And a glory of the rue de la Paix. Who, today, paying $5 for seven grammes of it, will dream of what it typified in the reveries of the blonde daughter of the Bourbon-Parmas - the destiny of her beloved Ferdinand: the ancient fleur de lis, royal emblem of their common ancestry, adorned with the haunting half tones of every modern devotion to the people!"

Scent Profile:

Kadine opens with a curious and elegant brightness, its first impression both aromatic and sweetly floral. The faintly licorice-like anise rises first, airy and herbaceous, a cooling breath that clears the senses and sharpens anticipation. Just beneath, the citrus of Calabrian bergamot unfurls—bright, slightly bitter, but with a floral undertone unique to the orchards of southern Italy. Calabrian bergamot was, and still is, considered the finest in the world, prized for its complexity and its balance of green, floral, and citrus facets, unlike the harsher bergamots of other regions. Woven into this sparkling freshness is the powdery sweetness of Parma violets. Cultivated by the Bourbon-Parma family, these blossoms carried not only delicate fragrance but also aristocratic heritage; their aroma is tender, almost crystalline, evoking pressed petals and sugared confections.

A burst of Portugal orange—a term used in 19th-century perfumery for sweet Seville orange—adds juiciness and sunlit warmth, softening the sharper edges of the bergamot. Together, these top notes create an opening that is airy, polished, and slightly nostalgic: cool herbs and citrus enlivened by tender powdery violets.

As the fragrance deepens, the heart becomes opulent, floral, and textured. The unmistakable signature of Kadine lies in its Florentine iris, derived from orris roots aged and powdered for years before distillation. Only the roots from Tuscany yielded such a creamy, buttery richness, blending violet-like sweetness with a faintly woody, carroty earthiness. Unlike the dry, powdery orris often found in lesser perfumes, Florentine iris lent Kadine a silken texture, at once powdery and radiant, with soft “half-tones” that gave it an almost musical quality.

The floral chorus expands with jasmine from Grasse, warm and narcotic, carrying honeyed, indolic richness that makes the iris seem more alive, more human. Bulgarian rose, distilled from the legendary Valley of Roses, adds a liquid velvet depth: lush, slightly spicy, with nuances of honey and clove that distinguish it from lighter Turkish roses. From India comes carnation, fiery and clove-like, lending spiced warmth to the cool elegance of iris and violet. These florals do not sit separately but weave together, creating a luxurious harmony that is softened yet emboldened by a faint leather accord—a fashionable touch in early 20th-century perfumery, suggestive of refinement, books, and travel trunks.

The violet leaf from Parma brings a sharper green note, crisp and metallic, balancing the powdery sweetness of the flowers with a modern freshness. This leafy greenness, often achieved through natural isolates such as ionones (discovered in the late 19th century), heightened the violet effect. Ionones gave violets persistence and radiance beyond what natural petals could yield, allowing the scent to shimmer with facets of raspberry, wood, and powder. Here, the synthetic element did not overshadow the natural violet but amplified it, giving Kadine both body and longevity.

The base is sumptuous, warm, and quietly sensual. Tonkin musk, one of the most precious animalic materials of its day, imparts depth and radiance, its powdery, slightly leathery warmth fusing the perfume with the wearer’s skin. Almond lends its sweet, marzipan-like note, soft and comforting, an echo of the powdery iris. Finally, Mexican vanilla rounds out the composition with golden warmth: rich, creamy, and faintly spicy. Compared with Tahitian or Bourbon vanilla, Mexican vanilla was considered deeper, darker, and more resinous, its complexity adding gravity to the floral bouquet.

The result is a fragrance that feels simultaneously aristocratic and exotic. The powdery iris and Parma violet lend delicacy and refinement; the Bulgarian rose and Grasse jasmine provide richness; the carnation and leather introduce fire and strength; while musk and vanilla offer intimacy and sensuality. It is a perfume that speaks of cultivated gardens and Oriental palaces, of powdered gloves and silk gowns, of a woman who is both elegant and commanding. Kadine translates its name into scent by embodying allure, privilege, and mystery: a favorite elevated above all others.

Bottles:

Kadine was originally launched in 1911 in the Flacon Carré, a square, clear bottle that served as a standard presentation for Guerlain perfumes of the time, accompanied by the bottle with the elegant Quadrilobe stopper, which would become one of the house’s enduring signatures. As the fragrance’s popularity continued, it was offered in a range of bottles across the decades. In 1923, Kadine appeared in the Goutte flacon for the eau de toilette, a graceful teardrop shape that emphasized lightness and everyday wear. From 1926 to 1939, it was also housed in the Petit Beurre, nicknamed the “Butter Pat” for its flat, rounded form reminiscent of a small serving of butter—a design cherished by collectors for its charm and simplicity. From c1935-1943, it was housed in the Flacon Lanterne Bleue for parfum.  During the years of World War II, Kadine was presented in the Flacon de Guerre (1938–1945), a practical, utilitarian design necessitated by shortages of luxury materials. Finally, in 1955, Guerlain introduced Kadine in the iconic Amphore flacon, a graceful, elongated bottle with flowing curves that reflected the elegance of mid-century design and gave the fragrance a timeless new identity.

Photo from the vintage perfume vault

Fate of the Fragrance:

Kadine was eventually discontinued, though the exact date remains uncertain; records confirm that it was still available for purchase as late as 1956. Today, original bottles of Kadine are regarded as exceptionally rare, surviving examples often surfacing only in private collections or at specialized auctions. When they do appear on the market, they command extraordinarily high prices, a reflection not only of their scarcity but also of the fragrance’s historical significance within the Guerlain legacy. Collectors prize these bottles as much for their elegant presentations as for the enduring aura of mystery and refinement the perfume represents.

2005 Reissue:

In 2005, Kadine was reformulated and reintroduced by Jean-Paul Guerlain, breathing new life into one of the house’s early 20th-century creations. This modern edition was re-packaged with updated presentation, yet it retained the essence of the original concept. Classified as a powdery aromatic floral fragrance for women, the 2005 Kadine sought to capture the elegance and refinement of its 1911 predecessor while aligning with contemporary tastes. The reformulation paid homage to the powdery iris and violet heart that defined the original, allowing a new generation of perfume lovers to experience the timeless sophistication of Kadine through a refreshed lens.

• Top notes: anise, bergamot, violet, aromatic notes 
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, carnation, leather, orris, violet leaf 
• Base notes: musk, almond, vanilla

Scent Profile:

When smelling the 2005 reformulation of Kadine, the first impression is strikingly luminous yet intriguingly spiced. The top opens with the cool, liquorice-like sharpness of anise, its herbal sweetness immediately creating an air of mystery. This mingles with the zesty freshness of bergamot, most often sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, whose fruit is prized above all others for its balance of bright citrus sparkle and delicate floral undertones—never too acidic, never too bitter. The pairing of bergamot with violet creates a soft halo effect: violet’s candied, powdery sweetness has both nostalgic charm and an elegant restraint, while the violet leaf, with its green, ionone-rich facet, adds a crushed-leaf freshness that keeps the floral note from veering into confection. The “aromatic notes” woven into the top are subtle—herbal and almost Mediterranean in character—bringing to mind thyme, rosemary, or clary sage, airy counterpoints that temper the sweetness with a crisp botanical freshness. Here, synthetics like ionones are essential, deepening the violet’s velvety character while simultaneously enhancing its petal-like delicacy, lending body where nature alone might fade too quickly.

The heart unfolds with a refined floral interplay. Jasmine, likely from Grasse or possibly India, radiates its narcotic richness, lush yet luminous, its indoles softened to give a silken glow. Rose provides the balance—a Bulgarian or Turkish rose note, deep and slightly honeyed, marrying beautifully with jasmine in a classic floral accord. Carnation enters with a spicy, clove-like accent, a touch of warmth that lifts the florals and keeps them from becoming too docile. This spiciness flows seamlessly into the surprising accent of leather, which brings a tactile, animalic richness that feels daring for a feminine perfume of this character. At the heart of it all lies orris, distilled from the dried rhizomes of Florentine iris. Orris is one of perfumery’s costliest materials, treasured for its buttery, powdery, violet-like elegance. Its tenacity and complex texture provide the very soul of Kadine, giving it a powdery sophistication unmatched by other flowers. Violet leaf, again, plays its role here—green and dewy, its ionone character enhancing the orris and violet interplay, grounding them with a touch of realism, as if one were holding a freshly picked bouquet still attached to its leaves.

The base settles into warmth and sensuality. Musk lends its velvety, skin-like softness, rounding the fragrance into a lingering caress. In earlier eras this note may have been evoked by natural Tonkin musk, but in modern formulations it is expressed through sophisticated white musks, their crystalline smoothness both clean and diffusive, designed to amplify the floral heart rather than overpower it. Almond adds a bittersweet, marzipan-like gourmand touch, rich and comforting, while vanilla—likely sourced from Mexico or Madagascar—brings both warmth and sensual sweetness. Mexican vanilla is particularly prized for its deep, creamy, almost smoky undertones, lending a richer base than the brighter, fresher qualities of Madagascar vanilla. This triad—musk, almond, and vanilla—creates a velvety cushion for the powdery iris and violet, softening the spice and leather notes into a dreamy haze.

Together, the 2005 Kadine feels like a fragrance that honors its powdery, floral roots while weaving in subtle gourmand and leather nuances. The natural beauty of iris, violet, rose, and jasmine is amplified by carefully chosen synthetics such as ionones and musks, which extend and refine their natural qualities, making them more diffusive and long-lasting. The result is an elegant, powdery aromatic floral, rich with memory and yet modern in its clarity—a scent that feels both tenderly nostalgic and unexpectedly bold.

2021 Reissue:

In 2021, Kadine was once again revived, this time reformulated by Guerlain’s in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser. Presented as a floral fragrance designed for both women and men, this exclusive edition reimagined the historic composition for the modern era while maintaining its heritage of refinement. Released in a precious 30 ml parfum concentration, Kadine (2021) was produced as a strictly limited edition of only 935 pieces worldwide, underscoring its rarity and collectable appeal. With a retail price of 690 Euros, the fragrance was positioned as a true luxury item, celebrating both Guerlain’s history and its continued ability to transform archival creations into contemporary masterpieces.

• Top notes: bergamot and green notes 
• Middle notes: iris, jasmine and rose 
• Base notes: vanilla and leather
  

Scent Profile:

The opening of Kadine greets you with a luminous burst of bergamot, its zest bright and sparkling, almost like sunlight dancing on morning dew. Sourced from Calabria, Italy—the cradle of the finest bergamot—the fruit carries a subtle bittersweet nuance that distinguishes it from other citrus varieties. Here, its freshness is at once invigorating and refined, a slightly green tartness underscored by delicate floral undertones. Intertwined with the bergamot are green notes, a verdant tapestry that evokes the scent of freshly cut grass, tender leaves, and the crisp scent of spring air. These green nuances lend the top accord a sense of natural immediacy, grounding the citrus brightness in an organic, almost dewy reality. In a subtle but vital way, aroma chemicals like cis-3-hexenol may be employed to heighten this verdant crispness, emphasizing the leafiness without overwhelming the senses.

As the heart unfolds, a soft, powdery floral bouquet emerges. Iris rises with its unique, velvety elegance, a root-based floral that carries both a buttery, slightly woody aroma and a delicate, ethereal powderiness. Iris from Florence, Italy, renowned for its finely balanced nuance, imparts a creamy softness that melds seamlessly with the surrounding florals. Nestled alongside it, jasmine blossoms in a sensual, luminous radiance. This jasmine, likely from Grasse, France—the historic epicenter of perfumery—boasts an unparalleled balance of indolic richness and bright floral clarity. Its aroma is creamy yet transparent, filling the air with a gentle intoxicating warmth. Rose adds a complementary layer, its petals seemingly plucked at the height of their bloom. If sourced from Bulgaria or Turkey, the rose carries a deep, rich, almost wine-like complexity, while subtle synthetic enhancers such as phenyl ethyl alcohol may intensify the natural freshness and lift the floral brightness, harmonizing the heart notes for a modern, enduring floral signature.

The overall effect is a floral accord that is at once tender and radiant, powdery yet lively, designed for both women and men. Each ingredient is carefully chosen not only for its inherent olfactory qualities but for the way it interacts with its companions: bergamot and green notes spark a crisp introduction, iris lends a luxurious powderiness, jasmine evokes luminous sensuality, and rose grounds the fragrance in timeless floral elegance. The interplay between the natural and the synthetic ensures that Kadine 2021 retains clarity, longevity, and a subtle modern twist, while remaining respectful of classical floral craftsmanship.