Sous Le Vent 1932

Launched in 1932 in Europe and reaching the United States by 1934, Sous le Vent was created by Jacques Guerlain as a tribute to Josephine Baker, the legendary American-born entertainer who rose to fame in Paris during the 1920s. Baker was a sensation of the Jazz Age, celebrated for her electrifying performances, iconic banana skirt dance in La Revue Nègre, and her charismatic embrace of freedom, modernity, and African-inspired style. By dedicating a perfume to her, Guerlain honored a woman who embodied exotic elegance, daring confidence, and modern femininity — qualities that aligned perfectly with the personality of the fragrance itself.

The name Sous le Vent (pronounced in layman’s terms as “soo luh vahn”) is French for “Under the Wind,” and refers geographically to the Leeward Islands. These islands can mean either the western part of the Society Islands in French Polynesia or the northern islands of the Lesser Antilles in the Caribbean; both regions were historically connected to European colonial networks — the Lesser Antilles included French colonies such as Martinique and Guadeloupe. The term evokes images of gentle tropical breezes, sun-drenched beaches, and the soft sway of palms, with a sense of relaxed elegance and faraway sophistication. Emotionally, the name suggests freedom, escape, and the charm of the exotic — a perfume that transports the wearer to a lush, sunlit paradise.

The early 1930s were a period of transition and modernity in fashion and culture. The roaring 1920s had given way to a slightly more restrained elegance, yet women continued to embrace freedom of movement, shorter silhouettes, and a more streamlined, modern style. In perfumery, the era was known for its experimentation with chypre fragrances, a style pioneered in the 1910s and 1920s, blending citrus, floral, and mossy notes with a touch of mystery. Sous le Vent, classified as an aromatic chypre, reflected this trend but distinguished itself through its soft, subtle, and fragrant floral character, particularly inspired by the mimosa, which gives the perfume a delicate, powdery, sunlit warmth.

 

For women of the time, Sous le Vent would have embodied sophistication, liberation, and modern elegance. Its tropical associations, exotic inspiration, and connection to Josephine Baker would have appealed to the cosmopolitan woman, eager to express both refinement and a sense of worldly adventure. The scent itself — aromatic, floral, and slightly powdery — could be interpreted as a gentle Southern breeze: light, refreshing, yet lingering on the skin with warmth and elegance.

In the context of the 1930s fragrance market, Sous le Vent was both of its time and distinct. While chypre fragrances were popular, this creation introduced a delicate, airy, and flowery interpretation, contrasting with the heavier, more dramatic chypres and florals then available. Its subtlety, refinement, and the story behind its creation gave it a unique position — a perfume at once modern, sophisticated, and inspired by a living icon of contemporary culture, bridging the elegance of Parisian perfume tradition with the spirit of the Jazz Age and the allure of the exotic.

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Sous Le Vent is classified as an aromatic chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: cyclamen, anise, bergamot, galbanum
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, ylang ylang, verbena, tarragon, lavender, myrtle
• Base notes: oakmoss, balsamic notes and musk

A 1932 ad in Marshall Field & Company's catalog mentioned:

"Guerlain's new perfume, Sous Le Vent, rises from its irregular bottle as soft and alluring as a southern breeze lingering over a garden of flowers."

Scent Profile:

Sous le Vent opens with a crisp, verdant top that immediately evokes the sensation of a gentle tropical breeze brushing across sunlit foliage. The cyclamen lends a subtle, watery floral freshness, light and airy, reminiscent of morning dew on delicate petals, with its natural aldehyde-like qualities enhancing a sparkling clarity in the opening. Alongside it, anise introduces a green-tinged sweetness, a faintly licorice-like warmth that adds vibrancy and personality, while the bergamot — likely from Calabria, Italy — provides a sparkling, sun-drenched citrus brightness. Its naturally occurring linalyl acetate and limonene create a luminous, slightly sweet freshness that contrasts beautifully with the sharper, aromatic green of galbanum, which imparts a resinous, green earthiness reminiscent of Mediterranean landscapes. Together, these top notes form a bright, energetic, and slightly aromatic opening that immediately transports the senses to a sunlit, exotic locale.

The heart unfolds into a luxurious floral tapestry. Jasmine and rose — classic Guerlain hallmarks — provide a rich, creamy sensuality. The jasmine, likely sourced from Egypt, carries a heady indolic quality, balanced by benzyl acetate and linalool, giving a soft, honeyed sweetness, while Grasse or French rose adds a gentle, powdery elegance with its naturally high geraniol content, imparting freshness and depth. Lily of the valley contributes a delicate, green-floral charm, reminiscent of springtime gardens, subtly sweet yet airy, its aroma amplified slightly by early synthetics used to enhance longevity. Ylang ylang, from the islands of the Philippines, lends a tropical, creamy floral richness, enriched with benzyl benzoate and linalool, which introduces depth and a slight exotic spiciness. The addition of verbena, tarragon, lavender, and myrtle provides a layered aromatic complexity — verbena’s lemony freshness, tarragon’s bittersweet warmth, lavender’s soothing floral herbal quality, and myrtle’s soft, resinous green facets coalesce into a sophisticated, multi-dimensional floral heart, airy yet deeply resonant.

The base notes ground the composition with the classic chypre foundation. Oakmoss provides a soft, earthy, and slightly leathery backdrop, rich in evernyl and other natural components that evoke forest floors and sun-warmed stone. Its texture is enhanced by balsamic resins, which add warmth and rounded depth, creating a lingering softness that supports the florals without overpowering them. Finally, musk ties the composition together, adding a subtle animalic warmth and sensuality that lingers delicately on the skin. The interplay of natural musks with the aromatic and floral heart ensures that Sous le Vent feels alive and dynamic, evoking the impression of sun, sea breeze, and blooming gardens in perfect harmony.

Overall, Sous le Vent is a fragrance that balances freshness, floral sophistication, and subtle warmth, transporting the wearer to a breezy, exotic paradise. Its aromatic chypre structure is simultaneously modern and timeless, offering the brightness of Mediterranean and tropical florals, the complexity of herbs and aromatic green notes, and the comforting depth of oakmoss and musk. The use of both natural essences and early synthetics allows the perfume to maintain its clarity and longevity, while capturing the airy, sunlit elegance for which Jacques Guerlain was renowned.

Reformulated Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a leather chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes of bergamot, lavender, tarragon
• Middle notes of jasmine, carnation and a green accord
• Base notes of iris, oakmoss, leather and precious woods

 

Bottles:

Originally presented in a bottle called the Rayonnet (parfum) in 1934 in various sizes also used for Vol de Nuit, from 1949-1972, it was housed inside a bottle shaped like a small keg, the Tonnelet (parfum). Also presented in the quadrilobe flacon (parfum), Goutte flacon (eau de toilette) and the Montre flacon (eau de cologne).

photo by ebay seller jajezus

image: eurofinegifts

Fate of the Fragrance:

Still available for sale around 1954. The perfume was discontinued sometime around 1972.  

2006 Reissue:

Sous le Vent (2006) – Translated as "Under the Wind", this version was reformulated by Jean-Paul Guerlain and relaunched as part of Guerlain's Il Était Une Fois (Once Upon a Time) collection, a limited-edition series reviving classic fragrances from the Guerlain repertoire. It has since been discontinued. It is classified as a leather chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, lavender, tarragon 
• Middle notes: jasmine, carnation and a green accord
• Base notes: iris, oakmoss, leather and precious woods

Scent Profile:

The 2006 reimagining of Sous le Vent transforms the original airy, aromatic chypre into a rich, leather-infused chypre, reflecting modern sensibilities while maintaining the elegance and sophistication of Jacques Guerlain’s creation. The opening notes strike immediately with the crisp yet herbaceous brightness of bergamot, lavender, and tarragon. The bergamot, likely sourced from Calabria, Italy, offers a sun-kissed, sparkling citrus facet, rich in limonene and linalyl acetate, lending a gentle sweetness that contrasts beautifully with the sharper, aromatic bite of tarragon. Tarragon’s subtle anise-like character, full of estragole, introduces a green spiciness that enlivens the initial impression. Lavender, a cornerstone of both French and Mediterranean perfumery, brings a cool, aromatic clarity and a powdery, slightly camphorous edge, whose naturally occurring linalool enhances the citrus and herbal interplay, giving the opening a sophisticated, almost metallic freshness.

The heart of the fragrance unfolds with a restrained floral elegance. Jasmine provides its characteristic warmth and sensuality, rich in indoles that impart a soft animalic depth, while carnation adds a spicy, rosy nuance, thanks to its eugenol content, which provides warmth and a slightly peppery vibrancy. The green accord — an abstract note combining grassy, leafy, and herbaceous elements — infuses the composition with a verdant freshness reminiscent of a dew-laden forest clearing, grounding the florals in an airy, naturalistic context. Unlike the original 1932 version, which was dominated by mimosa and tropical florals, the 2006 rendition favors a more restrained floral heart that emphasizes elegance over exuberance.

In the base, the composition deepens into a rich, leathery, and woody terrain. Iris contributes a powdery, almost soft-soapy texture, with its ionone-rich profile lending elegance and a velvety finish. Oakmoss, a staple of chypre fragrances, offers an earthy, slightly damp richness that reinforces the classical Guerlain structure while harmonizing with the new leathery facet. Leather, an unusual but increasingly popular addition in modern reinterpretations, introduces a subtle smoky warmth and animalic depth, enhancing the sensuality and sophistication of the fragrance. Finally, precious woods — likely a blend of sandalwood, cedar, and possibly guaiac wood — provide a dry, resinous warmth, lengthening the longevity and creating a polished, elegant finish.

Compared to the original 1932 Sous le Vent, which floated on aromatic florals and mimosa-inspired lightness, the 2006 version is darker, richer, and more grounded, reflecting contemporary trends for leather-infused chypres. The modern reinterpretation emphasizes structure, depth, and sensuality, turning the breezy elegance of the original into a perfume that feels intimate, enveloping, and powerful. Each ingredient — from the crisp bergamot to the smoky leather and powdery iris — is carefully balanced, creating a sophisticated, multi-dimensional experience. While the 1932 version evoked sunlit tropical gardens and airy breezes, the 2006 rendition evokes polished wood-paneled rooms, luxurious leather furnishings, and the subtle warmth of a classic European study, retaining Guerlain’s hallmark elegance while presenting it through a modern olfactory lens.