Flacon Tabatiere (Snuff) c1927-1972

Guerlain's Flacon Tabatière (Snuff Bottle) was created between 1927 and 1972 as the exclusive vessel for the perfume Liu, inspired by the heroine of Puccini’s opera Turandot. In the opera, Liu embodies the ultimate feminine virtues—loyalty, tenderness, and self-sacrifice—qualities that her mistress Turandot, the emperor’s daughter, lacks. The story is tragic: Liu’s devotion to the prince Calaf leads her to choose death rather than betray his identity, symbolizing the purity and intensity of love. This narrative informed the design and symbolism of the perfume bottle itself.

The Flacon Tabatière is a chunky, black crystal bottle, shaped to resemble a traditional Chinese tea caddy, though it is often referred to as a “snuff bottle” due to its squat, geometric Art Deco form. The bottle’s front bears a large vertical label in gold foil and black paper, while the recessed center of the flat, square, ground-glass stopper features a metallic gold foil round paper label with Guerlain’s name rendered in an abstract font. The letters "Liu" in gold on the bottle’s body subtly symbolize the secret and devotion central to the character’s story.

Two renowned French glassmakers were responsible for producing the bottle: Baccarat, which created a single mould, and Pochet et du Courval, which produced five moulds. Made entirely in black crystal, the Flacon Tabatière was exclusively reserved for Liu, highlighting its luxurious and singular purpose. Its combination of Art Deco geometric styling, symbolic references to Chinese culture, and literary inspiration make it one of Guerlain’s most distinctive and evocative perfume flacons.

Sizes:

Baccarat:

Baccarat only produced one mould:

• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 7.8cm/3.08" - (limited edition of only 6000 single copies, often unsigned, this has never been reissued)

Pochet et du Courval:

Pochet produced five moulds:

• Mould #15025 = 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 5.9cm/2.32" (1934, export version)
• Mould #15369 = 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 6.4cm/2.52", ground glass stopper (1937)
• Mould #14188 = 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 7.8cm/3.07", with out without acid etching: "Guerlain - Paris 0 France."  (1927)
• Mould #14423 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 9cm/3.54" (1929)
• Mould #14425 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 11cm/4.33" (1929)

Bottles:

Limited Edition:

In 1994, Guerlain celebrated the heritage of the Flacon Tabatière by reissuing Liu in a sumptuous limited edition that faithfully echoed the original Art Deco design. This reissue comprised 3,000 bottles, each holding 75ml of the parfum. The bottles were produced by Pochet et du Courval and fitted with a “plastemeri” stopper, a modern adaptation that retained the look and function of the original square, black stopper while offering greater durability.

The presentation emphasized luxury and exclusivity. Each bottle was sold in a black outer box, accompanied by a booklet detailing the perfume’s history and the story behind its iconic design. While the original edition of Liu had been 80ml (2.7 oz), the reissued version was slightly reduced to 75ml (2.5 oz), reflecting minor adjustments in modern production standards without compromising the elegance of the original flacon. This reissue allowed collectors and enthusiasts to own a piece of Guerlain’s Art Deco legacy while enjoying the perfume in a carefully crafted, historically resonant container.