Fol Arome c1896

Fol Arôme by Guerlain was originally launched in 1896, a period marked by optimism and artistic innovation in the Belle Époque, when Paris was at the height of cultural sophistication. Jacques Guerlain chose the name “Fol Arôme,” which is French for “Mad Aroma” or “Crazy Fragrance” (pronounced fohl ah-ROHM), suggesting a perfume that is audacious, exuberant, and daring. The name evokes images of lush, exotic gardens, warm tropical breezes, and a bold, adventurous spirit—an olfactory invitation to escape the ordinary and indulge in fragrant fantasies. For women of the time, the idea of a perfume called Fol Arôme would have conveyed both sophistication and exotic allure, promising a scent that was unconventional, warm, and captivating.

The perfume was crafted as a warm, aromatic floral, designed to transport the wearer to faraway lands. It combined tropical flowers—those with a lush, velvety richness reminiscent of pineapple or banana, rather than the familiar crispness of European blooms—with exotic woods and spices. Notes included cinnamon, sandalwood, and aromatics like pepper and green peppers, alongside bois du rose—a lightly odorous wood from French Guiana, distinct from traditional rosewood. This nuanced blend of tropical florals, spices, and rare woods lent the fragrance both warmth and complexity, setting it apart from the lighter, more conventional florals that dominated the market at the time.

The period of Fol Arôme’s launch was one of experimentation and fascination with the exotic, fueled by colonial trade and growing interest in tropical ingredients. Perfumes that incorporated distant or unusual raw materials were highly prized, and Guerlain’s access to secret tropical essences—closely guarded within the house—allowed the fragrance to stand out as both luxurious and novel. Compared to other fragrances of the late 19th century, which favored more restrained European florl bouquets, Fol Arôme was unusually bold, a statement of olfactory adventure and artistry. The 1912 reformulation only refined these exotic elements, preserving the perfume’s character while modernizing its composition to maintain relevance in a rapidly evolving perfumery landscape.

Women wearing Fol Arôme would have experienced a warm, enveloping scent that hinted at distant lands, mysterious flowers, and richly spiced woods. The perfume’s “mad aroma” lived up to its name, offering an intoxicating interplay of tropical freshness, aromatic spice, and luxurious woods—a fragrance that felt daring, elegant, and entirely Guerlain.

c1918 ad

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Fol Arôme is classified as a warm, aromatic floral fragrance for women. It was described as a warm perfume of tropical flowers and woods.

• Top notes: jasmine, anise, pineapple, lavender, bergamot, cinnamon, green pepper
• Middle notes: jasmine, daffodil, rose, ylang ylang, De Laire's Bouvardia base, mint, clary sage, marjoram, orris, black pepper
• Base notes: French Guiana bois du rose, sandalwood, musk, carnation, sweet acacia, vanilla

Evening Star, 1913:

"Rue de la Paix is softly sweet, restful, nothing pungent, but haunting and even makes a crave. Costs $5 for the smallest bottle, of scarcely seventy grams liquid contents. Guerlain's 'Fol Arome' is a perfume of flowers, but of what you would call tropical flowers. It is a warm perfume, as a pineapple or banana compared to an apple. There are also tropical woods in it, cinnamon, sandalwood, aromatics like pepper, and green peppers and bois du rose, not what we called rosewood, but an odorous wood, very light, from French Guiana. The elder Guerlain says that they have several tropical essences which are a secret of their house."

Scent Profile:

Fol Arôme by Guerlain is a lush, warm, and aromatic floral fragrance that immediately envelops the senses in an exotic embrace, transporting you to faraway gardens where tropical blooms thrive under a golden sun. At first spray, the top notes burst forth with the creamy sweetness of jasmine, its natural indoles lending a heady, animalic sensuality, softened by the subtle, licorice-like sparkle of anise. Pineapple adds a juicy, sun-ripened tropical facet, evoking the brightness and warmth of a far-flung orchard, while bergamot imparts a crisp, luminous citrus top that lifts the composition with airy clarity. The aromatic warmth of cinnamon swirls through the opening, offering a gentle spice reminiscent of distant markets, while green pepper contributes a piquant, almost vegetal kick, giving the initial spray a lively, effervescent energy. The lavender adds a classic Guerlain herbal signature, softening the fruit and spice with its aromatic, slightly camphorous character, rounding out the introduction with refinement.

As Fol Arôme settles, the middle notes reveal a lush heart of tropical and European florals. Jasmine deepens, harmonizing with velvety daffodil and soft rose, creating a luminous floral trio that feels simultaneously rich and airy. Ylang ylang brings its creamy, heady, tropical aroma, tinged with banana-like sweetness, while Bouvardia—a De Laire proprietary base—adds a delicate powdery floral nuance that enhances the bouquet’s elegance. The herbal lifts of mint, clary sage, and marjoram introduce aromatic freshness and complexity, while orris root imparts a soft, powdery iris-like texture. Black pepper introduces a subtle, warming piquancy, threading the florals with an understated, refined spice that keeps the fragrance from becoming cloying.

In the base, Fol Arôme deepens into a sensual and exotic foundation. The rare bois du rose from French Guiana, a delicately odorous tropical wood distinct from the traditional rosewood of Asia, offers a light, sweetly woody character that is both mysterious and elegant. Sandalwood adds its creamy, milky richness, enveloping the floral heart with a comforting warmth. The animalic depth of musk and the subtle carnation-like nuance of carnation bring intimacy and sensuality, while sweet acacia and vanilla provide a gourmand, comforting sweetness. The overall dry-down is a perfectly blended balance of exotic florals, warm woods, and aromatic spices—a fragrance that is both audacious and refined, capturing the “mad aroma” its name promises.

Fol Arôme stands out for its use of tropical ingredients, spices, and aromatic herbs, combining natural essences with Guerlain’s proprietary bases to create an olfactory experience that feels exotic, opulent, and meticulously layered. Each element—from the heady indoles in jasmine to the tropical woodiness of French Guiana’s bois du rose—is carefully chosen to evoke warmth, adventure, and sensuality, making it a truly distinctive perfume for its era.

Bottles:

Fol Arome was presented in a remarkable succession of flacons, each reflecting Guerlain’s dedication to artistry, craftsmanship, and the celebration of luxury. The fragrance was first offered in the Vinaigrier Ottoman bottle, a design originally used in 1870, inspired by traditional Ottoman forms. Its exotic lines and elegant contours complemented the tropical and aromatic character of the perfume, signaling an adventurous sophistication even before the scent touched the skin.

Around 1900, Fol Arome was presented in the Flacon Persane for the parfum, a long-necked, slender bottle that enhanced the sense of refinement and elongation, echoing the perfume’s warm and elegant olfactory personality. By 1902, the Flacon Empire was introduced, though surviving examples are rare; its classical architectural influence provided a stately frame for the luxurious fragrance.

The quadrilobe flacon, launched in 1908 for the parfum, became a signature Guerlain design. Its four-lobed stopper offered both stability and visual elegance, a perfect complement to the fragrance’s layered complexity. In 1912, Guerlain elevated Fol Arome further with the ‘Bouchon Cœur’ bottle, crafted by Cristalleries de Baccarat. This heart-shaped crystal stopper sparkled with clarity and brilliance, making the flacon a jewel in itself—a visual statement as luxurious as the scent contained within.

In 1923, the Goutte flacon was introduced for the eau de toilette, a teardrop-shaped bottle that captured the fluidity and delicacy of the perfume, emphasizing the ethereal nature of its tropical floral notes. By 1955, the Amphore flacon appeared for the parfum version, its classical amphora-inspired columnar shape highlighting refinement and timelessness. Some sources suggest that Fol Arome may also have been offered in the Montre flacon as an eau de cologne, demonstrating Guerlain’s intent to make this luxurious fragrance available in multiple formats and concentrations.

Across these varied presentations, the flacons of Fol Arome do more than contain the perfume—they tell a story of elegance, creativity, and the house’s unyielding pursuit of visual and olfactory artistry. Each design, from the exotic curves of the Ottoman bottle to the sparkling heart of the Baccarat crystal, mirrors the fragrance’s rich, tropical warmth and ensures that Fol Arome remains a statement of taste, sophistication, and historical significance.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Fol Arome was originally launched in 1896, a period when perfumery was embracing both exoticism and the innovative use of aromatic ingredients from around the globe. Its warm, tropical floral character captured the imagination of early 20th-century women, offering a luxurious and sophisticated scent that contrasted with the lighter, more conventional florals of the era. In 1912, the fragrance was reformulated and relaunched, reflecting Guerlain’s commitment to refinement and evolving taste, while preserving the original essence that had made it beloved.

Despite the changes, Fol Arome maintained its popularity for decades, still being sold in 1941, during a period when perfumery was heavily influenced by wartime constraints but also a desire for small luxuries. In 1947, Guerlain re-launched the original formula, reasserting its classic status in the post-war perfume market, when women sought scents that evoked both elegance and optimism. This edition remained available through 1958, reflecting enduring appreciation for its warm, aromatic floral composition.

Eventually, Fol Arome was discontinued, but its long lifespan—spanning more than six decades—underscores its significance in the Guerlain oeuvre. The fragrance’s ability to adapt to different eras, while retaining its tropical floral warmth, demonstrates both the house’s artistry and the timeless appeal of a well-crafted perfume that balances exotic ingredients, aromatic complexity, and olfactory sophistication.

2020 Reissue:

In 2020, Guerlain honored the legacy of Fol Arome with a meticulously reworked version of the discontinued 1912 formula. Created under the guidance of Thierry Wasser, this modern revival remains faithful to the original extrait, capturing the warm, tropical floral elegance and aromatic complexity that made the fragrance iconic over a century ago. The relaunch reflects Guerlain’s dedication to historical accuracy and olfactory artistry, balancing nostalgia with contemporary refinement.

This limited edition is strikingly exclusive, with only 964 examples released worldwide. Each 30ml extrait is housed in the crystal Bouchon Cœur flacon, a signature design that elevates the perfume into an object of beauty as much as scent. The heart-shaped stopper sparkles with the clarity and craftsmanship of Baccarat crystal, emphasizing the luxury and collectible nature of this edition. Priced at $775 USD, the fragrance is both a celebration of Guerlain’s heritage and a statement piece for collectors and connoisseurs.

The 2020 Fol Arome embodies a sensorial journey: from the first waft of tropical florals and warm spices to the lingering richness of exotic woods, musk, and vanilla. Its limited availability and faithful recreation of the original formula make it a rare opportunity to experience a historical masterpiece in a contemporary context, connecting the past and present in a truly elegant olfactory experience. As of 20205, this exceptional edition is still available, with a new price of $800.

Fragrance Composition:

 

• Top notes: mint, peach, Provencal lavender, bergamot
• Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, sambac jasmine, sage, narcissus
• Base notes: carnation, acacia, vanilla, orris, powdery notes

Scent Profile:

The 2020 revival of Fol Arome by Guerlain opens with a sparkling, refreshing interplay of mint, peach, lavender, and bergamot, immediately awakening the senses. The mint is crisp and invigorating, its herbal sharpness tempered by the juicy sweetness of sun-ripened peach, which provides a velvety, almost tactile fruitiness that contrasts beautifully with the aromatic clarity of Provence lavender. Bergamot, sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, adds a luminous, citrusy top note that feels sunny and effervescent, its natural bitter-sweetness enhanced subtly by the underlying green facets of the mint. Together, these top notes create an invigorating and playful introduction, a modern flourish that immediately draws attention yet remains sophisticated.

As the fragrance settles, the heart reveals a lush bouquet of Grasse rose and Grasse jasmine, two iconic flowers from the historic perfumery region of Grasse, France. The Grasse rose exudes a creamy, dewy sweetness, rich in natural phenols that impart depth and complexity, while Grasse jasmine carries the narcotic, indolic character synonymous with the Sambac and Grandiflorum species, its natural molecules like jasmone and benzyl acetate giving a honeyed, heady lift. Intertwined with these blooms are sage and narcissus, which add an aromatic and slightly green, peppery nuance; sage contributes camphorous freshness and herbaceous clarity, while narcissus offers a creamy, slightly waxy floral nuance that enhances the opulence of the bouquet. This heart is both warm and enveloping, a delicate yet intensely floral passage that bridges the sparkling top with the creamy, comforting base.

The base unfolds with carnation, acacia, vanilla, orris, and powdery notes, grounding the composition in warmth and sophistication. The carnation imparts a spicy, clove-like nuance, its eugenol content giving a natural warmth that blends seamlessly with French acacia, which adds soft honeyed sweetness and a subtle golden floral undertone. Vanilla provides a comforting gourmand touch, its vanillin molecules balancing the natural spiciness of the florals. Orris root, renowned for its violet-like powderiness and creamy texture, adds a luxurious, lingering depth that evokes classic Guerlain elegance. Finally, subtle powdery facets round out the base, tying the composition together with a soft, enveloping finish that feels intimate and timeless.

In its entirety, this modern Fol Arome captures the essence of the original 1912 extrait, yet the precision and clarity of the 2020 version bring each ingredient into sharper relief. The interplay of natural essences from Grasse and Provence with carefully calibrated aromatic and powdery nuances demonstrates Guerlain’s mastery in balancing tradition and contemporary refinement. Every inhalation is a journey—from sparkling freshness to heady floral heart, to the soothing, sensual caress of the base—inviting the wearer into a world of elegance, warmth, and timeless sophistication.