Showing posts with label Jardins de Bagatelle 1983. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jardins de Bagatelle 1983. Show all posts

Saturday, July 27, 2013

Jardins de Bagatelle 1983

Jardins de Bagatelle by Guerlain, launched in 1983, is a perfume that captures the essence of Parisian elegance, opulence, and the joyful exuberance of a sun-drenched garden. The name—Jardins de Bagatelle, pronounced "Zhar-dan de Ba-ga-tel"—translates literally from French as “Gardens of Bagatelle,” referencing the famous Bagatelle Garden in Paris’ Bois de Boulogne, created in 1775 by the Comte d’Artois as a hunting retreat. The word bagatelle itself means “a trifle” or “a thing made for pleasure,” immediately evoking notions of delight, leisure, and indulgence. To the imagination, it suggests lush rose gardens, cascading blossoms, sunlight on sculpted lawns, and the playful charm of ornamental flowers. It is a name that conveys sophistication yet retains an air of whimsy—a fitting metaphor for a fragrance that is both radiant and luxurious.

Launched during the early 1980s, Jardins de Bagatelle reflects a period in perfumery known for bold, high-impact compositions. The decade was marked by excess and exuberance: fashion was characterized by strong silhouettes, bright colors, and an air of glamour; perfumes mirrored this with intense sillage and complex bouquets. Jean-Paul Guerlain created a fragrance for women who wished to celebrate both pleasure and seduction, offering a perfume that blossoms like an opulent floral garden and radiates joy, energy, and feminine sophistication. Women of the era, drawn to powerful floral scents, would have immediately recognized the fragrance as a statement perfume—luxurious, confident, and celebratory of the senses.

In scent, Jardins de Bagatelle opens with a sparkling, airy burst of white flowers, including neroli, jasmine, and gardenia, which impart luminous, radiant top notes. Neroli, distilled from the blossoms of bitter orange trees, gives a fresh, slightly honeyed floral lift, while jasmine offers a creamy, narcotic warmth, rich in indoles that enhance its skin-like sensuality. Gardenia adds a velvety, tropical depth, its natural coumarins providing a soft sweetness and texture. The heart of the fragrance is a bouquet of white florals over a base of tuberose, which, while historically known as “poisonous” in legend, here adds a captivating, aphrodisiac-like intensity. The tuberose is rich, narcotic, and radiant, lingering on the skin with an almost magnetic pull.

The base of Jardins de Bagatelle grounds the exuberant florals with woody notes of cedar, giving the fragrance structure, depth, and a subtle dry elegance. The combination of a radiant white floral heart and warm, slightly earthy woods exemplifies the 80s penchant for audacious, opulent florals, yet Guerlain tempers it with finesse, ensuring that the perfume is not merely loud but balanced, harmonious, and luminous.

Jardins de Bagatelle, in the context of 1980s perfumery, fits beautifully within the era’s trends of bold florals but remains distinctive through its complex layering, luminosity, and storytelling. It evokes a walk through the historic Bagatelle gardens, where every bloom is celebrated, and where pleasure and elegance are inseparable. More than a fragrance, it is a perfumed celebration of joie de vivre, offering women both a sense of power and a luxurious sensory escape—a true testament to Guerlain’s mastery of floral artistry.





From Guerlain:
"Jardins de Bagatelle is for women who always perfume themselves for the pleasure of seduction as well as for their own pleasure and enjoyment. These gardens are redolent with a multitude of white flowers, varieties of rose, hyacinths, daffodils and narcissus of exceptional luminosity, to the great delight of anyone who loves nature. 
Floral. Joyous, luminous, captivating. 
Jardins de Bagatelle is an airy and luminous essence, a sparkling fragrance. The heart is a real bouquet of white flowers (neroli, jasmine and gardenia) celebrating joie de vivre over a base of poisonous tuberose underscored with woody notes. Jardins de Bagatelle blossoms over a tuberose base. This raw material also has aphrodisiac powers. In the time of Louis XVI, its scent filled the air in the King's court to identify any unwed pregnant women: these women would faint under the effect of this poisonous flower!"


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? The vintage version (1985-1989) is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh flowery top, followed by a luxurious floral heart, resting on a floral woody base. Named after the legendary garden for lovers in Paris, this floral blend includes rose, tuberose, gardenia, magnolia, jasmine, neroli, absolute of orange blossom with a woody base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, flower calyx notes, lemon, violet, neroli, bergamot
  • Middle notes: gardenia,  jasmine, Provencal rose, orange blossom, tuberose, magnolia, ylang ylang, narcissus, orris, orchid, lily of the valley
  • Base notes: cedar, vetiver, patchouli, musk, civet, benzoin, tonka bean

Scent Profile:


Jardins de Bagatelle (vintage version 1985–1989) is a luminous celebration of white and garden-fresh florals, capturing the spirit of Parisian elegance and the opulent romance of the legendary Bagatelle gardens. From the very first moment, the top notes burst forth with a sparkling clarity. Aldehydes create a clean, airy shimmer, evoking sunlight glinting off dewy petals and lending a subtle soapy brilliance that enhances the natural floral ingredients. The flower calyx notes provide green, lightly vegetal nuances, as if you can smell the tender base of the blossoms themselves. 

Citrus top notes of lemon, bergamot, and neroli contribute a radiant freshness: bergamot from Calabria delivers sparkling brightness and sweet-bitter complexity, neroli from Tunisia or Morocco adds a honeyed, slightly bitter floral nuance, and lemon enhances the effervescence with crisp citric clarity. Violet adds a delicate powdery green softness, harmonizing the sparkling citrus and setting the stage for the heart.

The heart of Jardins de Bagatelle is a voluptuous floral bouquet, lush and multilayered. Gardenia brings a creamy, tropical floral richness, with natural coumarins providing soft, warm sweetness. Tuberose, highly narcotic in character, fills the air with its intoxicating, slightly animalic creaminess, the natural indoles lending a sensual, skin-like depth. Jasmine adds its opulent warmth, full of honeyed and indolic nuances, while Provencal rose contributes a velvety, dewy elegance, rich in geraniol and citronellol. 

Orange blossom absolute enhances the radiance, its soft, sweet, citrus-floral facets creating a luminous halo. Magnolia, ylang ylang, narcissus, orchid, orris, and lily of the valley layer additional complexity, with magnolia offering creamy floral lightness, ylang ylang lending exotic, slightly fruity warmth, narcissus adding soft animalic facets, orris giving powdery elegance, and lily of the valley contributing a transparent, green-floral delicacy. Together, these middle notes evoke the sensation of walking through a sun-drenched, fragrant garden, where every flower is at the height of bloom.

The base provides structure, warmth, and sensuality, grounding the exuberant florals with woody and resinous depth. Cedar imparts a dry, aromatic woodiness, while vetiver adds earthy complexity and a subtly smoky undertone. Patchouli contributes sweet, balsamic depth and a gentle, lingering warmth. The animalic accents of musk and civet enhance the skin-like sensuality, giving the florals a natural intimate trail. Rich resins like benzoin and the sweet warmth of tonka bean create a soft, enveloping finish, adding both longevity and a subtly gourmand nuance that contrasts beautifully with the brightness of the top and the richness of the heart.

Smelling Jardins de Bagatelle from first spritz to dry down is like strolling through a meticulously curated Parisian garden at the height of spring, where sunlight dances across petals, flowers release intoxicating, layered fragrances, and a gentle breeze carries the scent of earth and woods in the background. The vintage formula is rich, luminous, and balanced, showcasing Guerlain’s mastery of blending florals with green, citrus, woody, and animalic elements—each ingredient contributing its unique aroma chemicals, from the indoles of jasmine and tuberose that create narcotic depth, to aldehydes that amplify floral brilliance, to the balsamic and vanillin notes of tonka and benzoin that round and anchor the composition. This perfume exemplifies the 1980s floral powerhouse trend, yet it remains refined, elegant, and joyously expressive.


2010 Version:


  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, neroli, lilac
  • Middle notes: Provence rose, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, orange blossom, magnolia, ylang ylang, narcissus
  • Base notes: patchouli, cedarwood, vetiver, tonka bean, benzoin, musk

Jardins de Bagatelle (modern reformulation, circa 2010) opens with a sparkling, luminous top that immediately conveys brightness and clarity. The aldehydes create a clean, shimmering veil, enhancing the freshness of the florals in a more linear, less complex way than the vintage formula. The citrus notes—bergamot from Calabria, lemon, and neroli—offer their familiar radiant brightness: bergamot brings a slightly bitter-sweet lift, neroli contributes a honeyed floral sharpness, and lemon injects crisp, sparkling effervescence. Lilac adds a gentle, green-floral softness, lightly powdery, which brightens the top notes but is less earthy and texturally nuanced than the violet and flower calyx notes found in the vintage 1985–1989 version. This modern opening is more immediately cheerful and radiant, but some of the subtle “green shadow” of a garden morning present in the vintage version feels softened or diminished.

In the heart, the modern formula still celebrates a lush bouquet of white and pastel florals, with Provence rose, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, orange blossom, magnolia, ylang ylang, and narcissus forming the core. The Provence rose is soft and elegant, delivering a familiar floral warmth but with a cleaner, less opulent body than the vintage rose, which had more depth from geraniol, citronellol, and the Bouvardia base that added a subtle green-fruity nuance. Jasmine and tuberose remain narcotic and creamy, but in the modern formula they are slightly less dense; the indolic qualities are muted, so the scent feels brighter and more linear. Gardenia adds its creamy, tropical character, and orange blossom absolute continues to provide a luminous halo, though the addition of synthetics like hydroxycitronellal or a modern jasmine accord may give the florals a slightly more transparent, polished feel. Magnolia and ylang ylang bring gentle exotic facets, while narcissus provides its characteristic soft animalic and honeyed aroma, though again less rich and earthy than in the original. Overall, the heart is airy, cheerful, and opulent in a cleaner sense, less textured with leafy or green nuances than the vintage.

The base in the modern reformulation emphasizes smooth, polished warmth rather than the earthy complexity of the vintage formula. Patchouli, cedarwood, and vetiver form a woody backbone, but they are lighter, with less of the subtle dry earthiness or smoky undertones present in the original. Tonka bean and benzoin contribute a creamy, sweet balsamic richness, while musk rounds the composition with soft, intimate sensuality. The vintage formula had civet and subtle aldehyde-boosted earthiness, which lent the fragrance a more natural, garden-like depth; this is largely absent in the modern version. The overall impression is bright, radiant, and clean, with a polished floral-woody base rather than a complex, earthy garden floor character.

Comparison with the vintage version reveals that the modern Jardins de Bagatelle feels lighter, brighter, and more linear, with a luminous, almost airy quality. It emphasizes the sparkling florals and citruses, whereas the vintage 1985–1989 formula provided a richer, more layered experience: deeper green and powdery nuances in the top, more indolic, creamy depth in the heart, and earthy, animalic undertones in the base. In essence, the modern version favors clarity, brightness, and accessibility, while the vintage offers textural complexity, richness, and a sense of a real Parisian garden with all its natural intricacies. Both are beautiful, but the vintage feels like a walk through a sun-dappled garden with soil, leaves, and flowers mingling, while the modern feels like a sunlit bouquet in a crystal vase: radiant, joyous, and immediately captivating.


Product Line:


Jardins de Bagatelle, initially launched as an eau de toilette, quickly became more than just a fragrance—it evolved into a complete sensorial experience by the mid-1980s. Recognizing the desire for a cohesive personal care ritual, Guerlain expanded the line by 1986 to include a range of bath and body products, allowing the signature luminous floral bouquet to envelop the skin in multiple forms. Each product was carefully designed to echo the radiant floral composition of the original eau de toilette, ensuring a seamless transition from fragrance to skincare.

The Concentrated Bath Oil offered a luxurious way to immerse oneself in the fragrance. A few drops dispersed in warm water released the luminous notes of neroli, tuberose, jasmine, and rose, while the oils left the skin soft and lightly perfumed. Complementing this, the Body Shampoo allowed for a delicate cleansing experience, the foaming lather releasing the sparkling aldehydic top notes along with the creamy floral heart, while leaving a subtle trace of the woody base on the skin.

Body Lotion and Body Cream extended the fragrance experience further, providing a soft, silky layer of hydration while gently infusing the skin with the floral-woody bouquet. The lotion offered a lighter, more immediate scent for everyday wear, while the richer cream lingered longer, emphasizing the depth of patchouli, cedar, and tonka bean present in the base.

For those who preferred more traditional cleansing, Bath Soap delivered the signature scent in a solid format, pairing gentle cleansing with the luminous floral character, while Talc allowed for a delicate powdery finish, leaving the skin with a soft, radiant veil reminiscent of a stroll through the Bagatelle gardens at dawn.

Guerlain also introduced perfumed deodorant options: the Mist, Spray, and Eau Déodorante. Each provided a subtle, refreshing layer of fragrance, allowing women to carry the luminous, joyful floral bouquet discreetly throughout the day. These products ensured that Jardins de Bagatelle was no longer simply a perfume but a complete olfactory lifestyle, allowing women to experience the garden’s radiant blossoms from bath to body care, reflecting Guerlain’s philosophy of integrating luxury fragrance into every aspect of daily life.

The absence of an extrait (parfum) kept the line more approachable and versatile, focusing on luminous, wearable florals rather than an intensely concentrated statement. This made the fragrance ideal for layering across multiple products, giving women the freedom to customize the intensity of their Jardins de Bagatelle experience while maintaining a consistent, radiant floral aura.



Bottles:


Presented in the Jardins de Bagatelle flacon, designed by Robert Granai. The original bottle has a smoke tinted stopper and cap, later editions have a completely clear cap/stopper. The Jardins de Bagatelle bottle was manufactured by two glassmakers: Saint-Gobain Desjonquères and Pochet et du Courval.

But by 2013, this bottle was replaced by the bee atomizer bottle.

Abandoning the late 1960s- early 1980s white and black zig zag box design for the black and gold box design that began with the introduction of Jardins de Bagatelle, Guerlain adopted this design to package fragrances which became the signature box style for the rest of the 1980s up until the early 2000s.


Fate of the Fragrance:


Jardins de Bagatelle Eau de Parfum (2021) a reformulation. It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. 
  • Top note: bergamot
  • Middle notes: tuberose, jasmine, neroli and gardenia
  • Base notes: woody notes


Jardins de Bagatelle Eau de Toilette (2021) a reformulation. It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. 
  • Top note:  bergamot
  • Middle notes: tuberose, jasmine, neroli and gardenia
  • Base notes: woody notes

Guerlain's Talc de Toilette

 Guerlain's Talc de Toilette was housed inside of a tin enameled in blue, off white and black.