Ylang Ylang c1879

Launched around 1879, Ylang Ylang by Guerlain reflects the 19th-century fascination with exotic botanicals and tropical flora. The perfume takes its name directly from the ylang-ylang tree (Cananga odorata), native to the islands of Southeast Asia. In layman’s terms, “Ylang Ylang” is pronounced ee-lahng ee-lahng, and the name itself evokes images of lush tropical gardens, golden blossoms hanging heavy on fragrant branches, and a warm, sultry breeze carrying their scent. To contemporary Parisians of the late 1800s, the word would have conjured fantasies of faraway lands, luxury, and the refined pleasure of indulging in exotic aromas—a perfect reflection of Guerlain’s commitment to crafting perfumes that combined elegance with a sense of adventure.

The perfume was launched during a period of intense interest in global exploration, colonial trade, and scientific discovery. European fashion and luxury culture were in the late Belle Époque, a time known for opulent fabrics, lavish social gatherings, and an enthusiasm for perfumes that could transport the wearer beyond the ordinary. Women of the era, embracing femininity, elegance, and subtle sensuality, would have been drawn to a fragrance called “Ylang Ylang” as both a statement of sophistication and a hint of exotic allure. The name alone suggests sweetness, sensuality, and the natural richness of the tropics—a perfume that whispers of golden sunsets and velvety petals.

From a compositional standpoint, Ylang Ylang perfumes of the 19th century were often based on mixed blends designed to evoke the fresh, heady aroma of tropical yellow blossoms. Guerlain would have utilized natural ylang ylang extracts, absolutes, and tinctures, emphasizing the flower’s creamy, slightly fruity facets and its warm, jasmine-like depth. Early formulations may also have included supporting florals such as jasmine or tuberose to amplify its richness. By the end of the century, synthetic ingredients like coumarin, vanillin, linalool, benzyl acetate, and musk xylene were sometimes introduced to enhance longevity, intensity, and clarity, while preserving the natural charm of the ylang ylang. These synthetics allowed the perfume to maintain its exotic freshness over hours, creating a balanced composition that was both opulent and wearable.

In the context of the market, Guerlain’s Ylang Ylang fit within the broader popularity of tropical flower perfumes, yet it stood out for its refinement and craftsmanship. While other perfumers experimented with ylang ylang, Guerlain’s approach combined scientific precision, artistry, and a subtle layering of supporting notes that created a scent both modern and timeless. Women of the era would have experienced it as a floral statement of elegance, capturing the exotic, the luxurious, and the subtly erotic all in one fragrant impression.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Ylang Ylang is classified as a floral oriental fragrance.

• Top notes: neroli, orange blossom, lemon, cassie, sweet orange
• Middle notes: ylang ylang, rose, jasmine, jonquil, tuberose
• Base notes: musk, benzoin, orris, tonka bean, vanilla, civet

Scent Profile:

Ylang Ylang by Guerlain opens with a radiant, sunlit top layer that immediately awakens the senses. Neroli, harvested from the blossoms of the bitter orange trees of Southern Italy, exudes a luminous, green-floral sweetness, rich in linalool and linalyl acetate, giving the perfume a crisp, sparkling vibrancy. Interwoven with neroli is orange blossom, sourced traditionally from Tunisia or Morocco, offering its soft, honeyed floral aroma, slightly indolic, providing depth to the opening. Lemon, with its bright limonene-rich zest, cuts through the richer florals, imparting a sparkling freshness that is both uplifting and invigorating. Cassie, the delicate yellow acacia flower, contributes a powdery, almost almond-like nuance, softening the citrus brilliance. Sweet orange, more rounded and warm than the lemon, balances the top notes with gentle juiciness, creating a radiant, citrus-floral introduction evocative of sun-drenched Mediterranean groves.

The heart blooms into a lush, tropical bouquet that feels both opulent and intoxicating. Ylang ylang, traditionally harvested from Madagascar or the Comoros, delivers a narcotic sweetness that is simultaneously creamy, floral, and slightly exotic, rich in benzyl acetate, geraniol, and linalool. Its presence is immediately enveloping, imparting an exotic warmth to the composition. Rose, often Damask or Bulgarian, unfurls with velvety elegance, its phenylethyl alcohol and citronellol lending a fresh yet deeply romantic floral character. Jasmine adds a heady, creamy floral intensity, balancing the sweet, slightly green notes of jonquil, a delicate yellow narcissus. Tuberose, with its rich, opulent, and slightly animalic aroma, enhances the heart’s depth and sensuality. Together, the middle notes create a flowering garden at its peak, evoking tropical evenings heavy with scent, where each petal releases a distinct, intoxicating aroma.

The base settles into a warm, sensual foundation that lingers long after the initial bloom has faded. Musk provides a soft, enveloping warmth, enhancing the perfume’s sensual aura. Benzoin, sourced from Siam, contributes a balsamic sweetness, its vanillin-like aroma complementing both the floral and gourmand elements. Orris root, cultivated primarily in Italy, lends a powdery, violet-like softness that adds refinement and creaminess. Tonka bean, rich in coumarin, offers a subtle almonded warmth that bridges the florals and woods seamlessly. Vanilla, with its creamy sweetness, enriches the oriental depth, enhancing the perfume’s warmth and softness. Finally, civet, either natural or synthetically reproduced, imbues a subtle animalic, skin-like sensuality that anchors the fragrance and intensifies its intimate, enveloping character.

The combination of these ingredients—citrus from the Mediterranean, exotic ylang ylang from Madagascar, rich florals from Europe, and warm orientals—creates a harmonious floral oriental masterpiece. Guerlain’s judicious use of natural absolutes alongside synthetic enhancers ensures that each note is not only discernible but elevated, allowing the fragrance to remain luminous, exotic, and timeless. Ylang Ylang is a perfume that simultaneously evokes sunlight, lush tropical gardens, and intimate elegance, inviting the wearer into a world of refined, sensual beauty.

Bottle:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

La Cologne Du Parfumeur c2010

La Cologne Du Parfumeur by Guerlain, launched in 2010, is a modern reinterpretation of the classical eau de cologne, designed for both women and men. The name, La Cologne Du Parfumeur, translates from French as “The Perfumer’s Cologne” (pronounced la koh-lon dy par-fuh-mur), evoking intimacy, craftsmanship, and personal artistry. It conjures the image of a master perfumer in his laboratory, thoughtfully blending citrus and green notes in a quiet, contemplative moment—a reflection of Thierry Wasser’s own description that he created this cologne for himself, as a personal, relaxing project alongside his work on Idylle. The words suggest elegance, discretion, and a refined simplicity, an homage to the classic colognes of the 19th and early 20th centuries while maintaining a contemporary sensibility.

The fragrance opens with an effervescent and luminous burst of citrus. The Italian bergamot sparkles with its natural limonene, providing a crisp, tangy brightness, while the sweet orange and orange blossom, harvested from Calabria, Italy, introduce a delicate floral sweetness. The orange blossom is particularly gentle, with green, crisp facets that lend a dewy freshness reminiscent of a Mediterranean orchard at sunrise. Lemon adds a sparkling, energetic accent, lifting the composition with a natural zing. The top notes immediately convey a feeling of vibrancy, cleanliness, and understated elegance—classic traits of the traditional eau de cologne reimagined for the modern wearer.

At its heart, the fragrance reveals subtle green and aromatic facets. A whisper of orange blossom continues to bloom, harmonizing with soft, green nuances that evoke freshly crushed leaves and herbaceous serenity. These green, almost vegetal tones balance the sweetness of the citrus, creating a sense of natural freshness that is simultaneously intimate and invigorating. The composition is elegantly simple yet nuanced, emphasizing the clarity and refinement of each note.

The base is rounded by musky undertones that provide intimacy and modernity. Soft musks add a lingering warmth and a subtle animalic quality, enhancing the natural vibrancy of the citrus and green notes while anchoring the fragrance on the skin. This musky foundation ensures the cologne does not feel fleeting, giving it depth and personality without overwhelming the airy, luminous character of the composition. The subtle inclusion of musks distinguishes it from classical colognes, giving it a contemporary twist that feels both personal and approachable.

Housed in a signature Guerlain bottle adorned with 69 bee motifs, La Cologne Du Parfumeur reflects the brand’s imperial heritage while celebrating craftsmanship. The cologne can be customized with gold detailing and personal initials, emphasizing its bespoke, artisanal quality. In 2010, amid a trend of fresh, unisex fragrances and a revival of classic cologne styles, this fragrance stood out for its refinement, intimacy, and green-musky originality. It offered a modern twist on a traditional form, combining elegance and casual sophistication, appealing to both men and women who appreciate freshness with subtle complexity—a true “perfumer’s” expression captured in a bottle.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? La Cologne Du Parfumeur is classified as a citrus aromatic fragrance for women and men. Unlike the other Eau creations, Cologne du Parfumeur cannot be combined with your usual fragrance, as it has the trail and hold of an Eau Fraîche.

• Top notes: citrus notes, Amalfi lemon, mint, galbanum
• Middle notes: African orange blossom, rosemary, lavender
• Base notes: white musk

Scent Profile:

La Cologne Du Parfumeur by Guerlain is a masterful study in freshness, a citrus aromatic fragrance designed for both women and men. Its opening is bright, sparkling, and almost effervescent. The citrus notes are immediately radiant, with Amalfi lemon at the forefront. This Italian lemon, grown along the sun-drenched Amalfi Coast, is prized for its vibrant, zesty character and slightly sweet nuance that distinguishes it from more bitter varieties like Sicilian lemon. The essential oil is rich in limonene and citral, giving the fragrance a luminous, sparkling top that is both crisp and intoxicating. Mint adds a green, cooling facet, lifting the citrus brightness while offering a subtle herbal bite. Galbanum, a resin derived from plants in the Mediterranean, introduces a deep, green, slightly balsamic tone, enhancing the natural freshness of the citrus while grounding it with a resinous complexity. Together, these top notes are an invigorating symphony, a first impression that is vibrant, clean, and sophisticated.

As the fragrance develops, the heart reveals a delicate floral-aromatic ensemble. African orange blossom, sourced from North and West Africa, brings a refined, honeyed floral quality that is softer and less indolic than Mediterranean orange blossom. Its aromatic molecules, particularly linalool and nerolidol, add warmth and creaminess, harmonizing beautifully with the fresh citrus above. Lavender provides a herbal-floral lift, its camphoraceous and slightly woody undertones evoking the sun-baked fields of Provence. Rosemary contributes an aromatic, resinous facet with subtle camphor and cineole notes, enhancing the heart’s green complexity while complementing the floral sweetness. The combination of these middle notes produces an elegant balance of brightness, herbal freshness, and soft floral sweetness—a delicate bridge between the sparkling top and the restrained base.

The base of La Cologne Du Parfumeur is understated yet vital, comprised solely of white musk. This musk creates a gentle, skin-like warmth, enveloping the wearer in a soft, lingering veil. Naturally, musk contains muscone and civetone, molecules that impart subtle animalic depth, while in this Eau Fraîche-style cologne, the synthetic enhancement smooths and refines the trail, ensuring the scent remains intimate and delicate without overpowering the crisp top and middle notes. The effect is a fragrance that feels natural, wearable, and extraordinarily refined—a modern cologne that respects the classical tradition while adding contemporary elegance.

La Cologne Du Parfumeur is intentionally designed as an independent creation; it cannot be layered with other fragrances without compromising its airy clarity. Its balanced interplay of citrus, green herbal notes, soft white florals, and delicate musk gives it a sophisticated, almost meditative character. From the sun-soaked Amalfi lemon to the subtle warmth of musks, each ingredient is carefully chosen and blended to create a fragrance that is simultaneously refreshing, intimate, and timeless—truly a cologne in the purist, perfumer’s sense of the word.

Bottle:

Presented in the white bee bottle in various sizes.


Available as:

• 100ml ($96) 
• 250ml ($205) 
• 500ml ($300)

Le Bolshoi c2011

Le Bolshoi by Guerlain, launched in 2011, was a fragrance of exceptional significance and prestige. Introduced as a limited edition of only 400 bottles, it debuted on October 27th, just one day before the grand reopening of the historical Main Stage of the Bolshoi Theater in Moscow, a venue celebrated worldwide for its extraordinary contributions to ballet and opera. Guerlain, as one of the sponsors of the theater’s extensive renovation project, created Le Bolshoi to commemorate this milestone, aligning the elegance of perfumery with the cultural grandeur of the iconic institution.

The name “Le Bolshoi”, pronounced in layman’s terms as “Le Bol-shoy”, is French for “The Grand” or “The Great,” and directly references the theater’s illustrious reputation. The word evokes imagery of gilded auditoriums, sweeping stage curtains, and the artistry of dancers in fluid, dramatic motion. It conjures a sense of sophistication, timelessness, and the transcendent beauty of the performing arts, linking the perfume to a sphere of elevated cultural refinement.

The fragrance emerged in a period marked by a revival of classical and elegant motifs in perfumery, where historical references and limited editions were increasingly favored by collectors and connoisseurs. Women of the time, drawn to exclusive and culturally resonant scents, would have found Le Bolshoi deeply appealing—a perfume that celebrated artistry, elegance, and historical significance while offering a sensorial experience of floral refinement.

Created by Jean-Paul Guerlain, Le Bolshoi is a floral fragrance for women and serves as a recreation of the 2009 perfume Les Secrets de Sophie. While it reflected contemporary trends in florals, the perfume’s strong cultural narrative and association with a prestigious historical event set it apart from typical market offerings. Its carefully composed floral heart, captured in a luxurious bottle, translated the grandeur and artistry of the Bolshoi stage into an olfactory performance, creating a scent that was as much a tribute to culture and history as it was a wearable perfume.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Le Bolshoi is classified as a floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, bitter orange, petitgrain, neroli
• Middle notes: jasmine, violet, orange blossom, ylang-ylang
• Base notes: musk, tonka bean, vanilla and incense

Scent Profile:

Le Bolshoi opens with a bright and effervescent top accord, where the crisp bergamot immediately awakens the senses. This Italian bergamot carries a refined citrus sharpness, rich in linalyl acetate, limonene, and citral, providing both freshness and subtle sweetness. Layered alongside is bitter orange from Spain, whose rind offers a more astringent, slightly resinous character, adding depth to the citrus opening. Petitgrain, distilled from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, contributes a green, slightly woody facet, with natural linalool imparting a soft, aromatic clarity. Neroli, the delicate blossom of the bitter orange, elevates the opening with its luminous, honeyed floral facets, creating an immediate sense of refinement and elegance. Together, these top notes form a radiant, invigorating prelude that evokes the sparkling chandeliers of the Bolshoi’s grand stage.

The heart of Le Bolshoi unfolds with a lush, intoxicating floral bouquet. Jasmine, sourced from India or Egypt, dominates with its rich, heady sweetness and natural benzyl acetate and indole compounds, which contribute both its velvety floral warmth and a subtle animalic depth. Violet adds a soft, powdery, and slightly green nuance, reminiscent of velvet stage curtains. Orange blossom deepens the floral impression with its radiant, sun-drenched white-flower aroma, while ylang-ylang from the Comoros or Madagascar introduces an exotic, creamy tropical sweetness, with methyl benzoate and geranyl acetate enhancing the floral opulence. The middle notes are opulent yet balanced, capturing a sense of grandeur, elegance, and the sweeping drama of ballet in motion.

The base of the fragrance grounds the composition with a warm, sensual, and subtly resinous foundation. Musk provides a soft, skin-like warmth, while tonka bean, rich in coumarin, adds sweet, slightly almond-like and vanilla nuances. Vanilla amplifies this sweetness, offering comfort and richness, its natural vanillin complemented by synthetics to achieve a lasting, enveloping trail. Incense lends a smoky, ethereal, almost sacred aura, reminiscent of candlelit theaters, elevating the scent’s sophistication and giving the perfume a timeless, almost ceremonial finish. Each element in the base harmonizes to create a lingering impression that evokes elegance, mystery, and the grandiosity of the Bolshoi stage, making Le Bolshoi not only a perfume but a sensory journey into the world of classical art and refinement.

Bottle:

Fleurs de Guildo c1885

Launched in 1885, Fleurs de Guildo was created by Aimé Guerlain, the second generation of the legendary perfume house. Its name, meaning “Flowers of Guildo” in French (pronounced flur duh geel-doh), evokes both place and poetry. The word “Guildo” refers to the Château du Guildo, a ruined medieval fortress overlooking the Arguenon estuary in Brittany, France—a region known for its wild coastal beauty, heather-covered moors, and briny Atlantic breezes. To 19th-century French society, the name would have conjured images of windswept cliffs, sea-lavender, and fields of broom and gorse—flowers that thrive where land meets sea. The title alone suggested an idyll of purity and freshness, a floral fantasy rooted in nature rather than artifice.

During the 1880s, France was in the late Belle Époque period—a time of cultural refinement, artistic flourish, and a deep fascination with nature, travel, and romance. Fashion favored soft pastels, delicate lace, and floral motifs; women wore gowns trimmed with blossoms, and perfumes that mirrored these fashions were in high demand. Fleurs de Guildo arrived at a moment when perfumery was transitioning from purely single-note floral waters to more nuanced compositions that blended the realism of nature with the artistry of chemistry. It was also an era when Aimé Guerlain was experimenting with new accords and techniques, moving the house beyond cologne-style freshness into more emotional and evocative perfumery.

The name Fleurs de Guildo would have held particular allure for women of the time. The reference to flowers—the eternal symbol of femininity—paired with a Breton landscape, spoke of innocence, youth, and unspoiled nature. In L’Art de la toilette chez la femme: Bréviaire de la vie élégante, the perfume was noted as being particularly suited to young women, emphasizing freshness, grace, and natural charm over opulence or sensuality. It was not the scent of a grand ballroom, but of a seaside garden in early morning light.

Interpreted in scent, Fleurs de Guildo was described as “a fresh and delightful perfume, saturated with the essence of plants that grow along the seashore.” The composition combined green, herbal, and floral notes—including lavender, broom, violet, and wild rose—with airy touches that suggested sea spray and heather. There would have been a gentle, sun-warmed sweetness balanced by the crispness of the coastal breeze. Its delicate floral heart and soft musky base would have made it both comforting and invigorating, much like a walk along the Breton cliffs where wildflowers sway in the salt air.

In the context of its time, Fleurs de Guildo was both modern and traditional. While it followed the popular trend of “bouquet” fragrances inspired by nature, it also stood out for its realism and freshness—qualities that hinted at the later emergence of marine and green floral families in perfumery. It demonstrated Aimé Guerlain’s gift for transforming the natural world into fragrance poetry: a composition that spoke of earth and air, youth and elegance, and a fleeting moment of beauty made eternal in scent.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Fleurs de Guildo is classified as a floral amber (ambery floral) fragrance.

• Top notes: broom, lavender, heather, sweet briar 
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, violet, geranium 
• Base notes: heliotrope, ambergris, vanilla, musk

Scent Profile:

At first breath, Fleurs de Guildo unfolds like the soft exhalation of the Breton coast itself—salt-laced air carrying the scent of moorland flowers and wild herbs warmed by the sun. The composition opens with the tender, honeyed breath of broom, a flowering shrub that grows in abundance on the heaths near the Château du Guildo in Brittany. Its fragrance is sweet yet dry, recalling warm hay and distant meadows. Chemically rich in methyl anthranilate and ionones, broom gives a natural warmth and faintly animalic sweetness, bridging floral and herbal tones. From France, broom has a particular golden delicacy—less indolic than Mediterranean varieties, yet more radiant—evoking the open hills and sunlit coasts of northern France.

Intertwined with broom’s sunny glow comes the clean, herbaceous lavender, perhaps from Provence, whose crisp linalool and linalyl acetate molecules lend the perfume both brightness and calm. The scent of heather, seldom used in modern perfumery, adds a dry, floral-green note reminiscent of wild honey and damp moss—an impression of the rugged Breton moors. Sweet briar, or wild rose, completes the opening with a tart, apple-like greenness (thanks to citronellol and geraniol) that catches in the air like dew clinging to morning petals. Together, these top notes create the illusion of wind through wild grass and blossoms—fresh, airy, and slightly wistful.

As the perfume deepens, the floral heart unfurls with classic Guerlain refinement. A soft rose—likely Bulgarian or French May rose—blooms at the center, lush and velvety. Its characteristic phenylethyl alcohol and citronellol give natural sweetness balanced by the faint peppery spice of geranium, whose own rosy facets add lift and clarity. Jasmine, perhaps from Grasse, infuses a narcotic richness through its benzyl acetate and indole, lending sensual warmth without overpowering the delicate floral balance. Lily of the valley (likely recreated through early synthetic accords, as the flower yields no natural extract) brings a green, aqueous shimmer to the bouquet—its hydroxycitronellal-like brightness giving a feeling of wet petals and morning light. Violet, rich in ionones, adds a powdery, wistful tone—a touch of romantic melancholy that links the floral heart to the soft sweetness of the base.

As it settles, Fleurs de Guildo drapes itself in warmth. Heliotrope, with its almond-vanilla aroma derived from heliotropin (piperonal), lends a tender, creamy sweetness that softens the sharpness of the earlier floral notes. Ambergris, the treasure of the sea, provides a faintly salty, musky-animal warmth that deepens the perfume’s marine inspiration. Natural ambergris contains ambrein, which oxidizes into sweet, ambery compounds that give radiance and longevity—an olfactory echo of the ocean’s depths. Vanilla, likely from Madagascar, contributes a lush, balsamic roundness, its vanillin molecules enhancing both sweetness and comfort. Finally, musk—whether natural in the 19th century or a recreated synthetic accord—enfolds everything in a soft, sensual veil, binding the composition with a human warmth that lingers on the skin.

The result is a fragrance that feels alive with place and memory—a portrait of Brittany’s moors and sea air, translated into scent. The interplay between the floral freshness of broom and rose, the green purity of lily of the valley and heather, and the tender warmth of heliotrope, vanilla, and ambergris creates a harmony both pastoral and romantic. Fleurs de Guildo captures that liminal space where land meets sea, where flowers bloom amid salt and wind. It is at once innocent and sensual, refined yet wild—the scent of blossoms carried on the coastal breeze, timeless in its grace and unmistakably Guerlain in its soul.

Bottles:

Housed in the Carre flacon and others.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1886, the Journal des demoiselles placed Guildo among the most fashionable perfumes of the winter season, alongside elegant names such as Primavera d’Espagne and Impérial Russe. The tone is one of admiration: “The newest creation, Guildo, has achieved remarkable success—its fragrance is exquisite and sweet, with a freshness that lingers beautifully.” These words suggest that Guildo offered a kind of brightness uncommon in winter perfumes of the time, which often leaned toward heavy ambers or spicy orientals. Instead, Guildo brought the freshness of the coast into the perfumed salons of Paris—a scent of vitality, tempered by sweetness, that promised refinement and renewal amid the chill of the season.

By 1887, in Les Lettres et les Arts, critics were describing Fleurs de Guildo in near-poetic terms. They spoke of Guerlain’s genius for turning the illusion of flowers into something alive: “With a master’s touch, he captures the delicate soul of the most elusive blossoms, distilling their essence into a single drop that transforms imitation into life.” The text evokes the perfume as an act of artistic resurrection—the transformation of lifeless imitation into something breathing, singing, and vital. The mention of violet, rose, geranium, broom from the Breton moors of Guildo, heliotrope, and lily of the valley creates a sensory tableau of wild and cultivated florals mingling together. The broom and heather lend the perfume its coastal authenticity—earthy, honeyed, and windswept—while the soft violet and heliotrope introduce an air of delicacy and dream. The image of “the bouquet that awakens, breathes, and sings” captures precisely what Guerlain achieved: a symphony of scent that felt more alive than nature itself, contained within a flacon that “gleams like Venetian crystal.”

By 1890, the Journal des demoiselles again noted Guildo as a fragrance of great distinction, pairing it with Jicky—then Guerlain’s daring new modern masterpiece. “Guildo is pleasant and long-lasting; it produces a lively and stimulating impression, reminiscent of the fragrance of plants growing along the seashore.” Here the emphasis shifts toward its marine freshness, a quality that must have felt exhilarating and new to 19th-century sensibilities accustomed to heavy floral or resinous compositions. To describe a perfume as stimulating—evoking the scent of “plants growing along the seashore”—is to imagine that briny, windswept vitality distilled into something wearable. It appealed, the reviewer noted, to “those who enjoy pronounced scents”—women who desired perfume with presence, yet grounded in nature’s realism.

Taken together, these accounts trace the evolution of Fleurs de Guildo from fashionable novelty to a beloved Guerlain signature. It was admired not only for its freshness and realism but also for its poetic soul—a perfume that made the flowers of Brittany bloom anew in Parisian air. Guerlain’s artistry lay in translating landscape into fragrance: turning broom and heather, violet and heliotrope, into a scent that captured the romance of the Breton coast, the freshness of sea wind, and the grace of a bouquet that “awakens, breathes, and sings.”

Discontinued, date unknown. Still available as late as 1890.

Esprit de Reseda 1828

When Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain launched Esprit de Réséda in 1828, he chose a name that perfectly encapsulated the spirit of early 19th-century perfumery—refined, poetic, and intimately tied to nature. The name is French, pronounced “eh-spree duh ray-zay-dah.” Translated literally, it means “Spirit of Mignonette,” referencing the delicate flowering plant Reseda odorata, known for its softly spicy, green, and sweetly powdery fragrance. The word “esprit” conveys not only the essence or extract of a flower, but also the intangible “spirit”—its mood and personality captured in perfume form. In this sense, Esprit de Réséda evokes a fragrance born from both art and emotion—the soul of the mignonette distilled into scent.

The imagery conjured by the name alone is tender and wistful: a sunlit garden in early summer, where the air hums with bees and the breeze carries the faintly honeyed, spicy scent of the reseda blossoms. Mignonette, though modest in appearance, was adored in 19th-century Europe for its gentle yet persistent perfume—an aroma often described as comforting, feminine, and slightly melancholic. It was the scent of pressed lace handkerchiefs, of garden walks at twilight, and of tender sentimentality. The perfume’s name, therefore, would have appealed to women of the Romantic era as something both elegant and deeply personal, a quiet luxury to be worn close to the skin.

Launched at the dawn of the Romantic period, Esprit de Réséda emerged during a time when European society was turning away from the rigid formalities of the late 18th century and embracing emotional expression, art, and nature. The 1820s were marked by a revival of sentimentality and refinement. Women’s fashions favored flowing empire gowns and soft curls—fabrics like muslin, silk, and lace replaced the heavy brocades of earlier decades. In perfumery, this period saw a renewed fascination with floral compositions—rose, violet, orange blossom, and mignonette were among the most beloved notes. Perfumes were no longer purely functional; they became extensions of personality, a reflection of refinement and mood.

In this cultural landscape, Esprit de Réséda represented both innovation and tradition. Its structure—a floral heart softened with oriental undertones—followed the established conventions of the day, yet Guerlain’s treatment of the mignonette note made it distinctive. Reseda’s natural scent is complex, combining facets of rose (due to geraniol), violet-like sweetness, and faint green-spicy warmth. By highlighting this interplay, Guerlain created a perfume that was both familiar and intriguingly layered.

As time progressed, mignonette fragrances became a hallmark of 19th-century perfumery. Nearly every major house offered its own version, often called Réséda, Rezeda, or Mignonette. Each perfumer adjusted the recipe—perhaps adding more rose for softness, or more spice for warmth—to create a signature variation. Early formulas were entirely natural, made from tinctures and enfleurage extracts of the flower. By the late 19th century, however, with the discovery of synthetic aroma compounds like geraniol (a key component of reseda’s floral tone), perfumers could enhance the flower’s character, emphasizing its radiant, green-floral brightness while extending its longevity. These innovations allowed perfumers to more accurately reproduce the delicate, fleeting scent of real mignonette blossoms—something that natural extraction alone could not fully achieve.

In the context of its time, Esprit de Réséda would have felt both classic and modern—a perfume that reflected the genteel sensibilities of the 1820s while hinting at the sophisticated artistry that would come to define Guerlain in the decades ahead. To the women who wore it, this fragrance was likely more than just a cosmetic adornment; it was a token of grace, emotion, and cultivated taste. Esprit de Réséda captured the ephemeral charm of a garden flower and translated it into a luxurious, enduring essence—a poetic beginning for what would become one of the most storied perfume houses in the world.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance, evoking the soft, sweet, and slightly spicy character of the mignonette flower.

• Top notes: bergamot, neroli, orange, bitter almond, cassie, geranium, reseda geraniol
• Middle notes: tuberose, jasmine, violet, rose, orange blossom, orris resin, clove, nettle
• Base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, benzoin, styrax, musk, tolu balsam, Peru balsam, costus, ambergris, ambrette, labdanum, storax

Scent Profile:

To experience Esprit de Réséda by Guerlain is to step into a 19th-century garden at the height of summer—a space where blossoms release their fragrance into warm air laced with the faint sweetness of polished woods and resins. The perfume unfolds slowly, each note revealing another layer of the mignonette’s elusive charm—soft, floral, green, and faintly spicy—rendered here through a symphony of natural and resinous ingredients. It is a floral oriental in structure, but delicate in temperament: tender and human, yet quietly sensuous beneath its powdered petals.

The opening greets the senses with the bright, sunlit sparkle of bergamot from Calabria—its effervescence clean yet slightly bitter, awakening the air like the first slice of a green-gold fruit. Bergamot’s natural compounds, linalyl acetate and limonene, give it that uplifting citrus shimmer, while its soft floral nuance blends seamlessly into neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree of Tunisia. Neroli’s luminous white-flower sweetness is counterbalanced by the honeyed, waxy tones of orange and the subtle almond-like warmth of bitter almond, whose benzaldehyde content imparts a softly marzipan-like aroma—delicate and nostalgic. These top notes, so characteristic of Guerlain’s early works, create a radiant overture that feels both pure and emotionally stirring, like a memory revived by light.

Soon, the green-floral heart of the perfume unfurls, where cassie—the yellow-flowered acacia from Provence—lends its powdery, mimosa-like richness. Cassie’s naturally occurring ionones and methyl salicylate give it both violet and spicy balsamic facets, softening the sharper citrus top into something more velvety and romantic. Geranium, likely from Réunion or Egypt, adds its rosy, slightly minty freshness, rich in citronellol and geraniol, which also naturally occur in the reseda flower itself. Reseda geraniol, the defining note of this fragrance, captures the mignonette’s quiet beauty—floral, green, and faintly powdery, yet touched by a peppery warmth. In the natural flower, this complexity arises from its blend of phenylacetaldehyde, benzyl alcohol, and geraniol, which together produce an aroma that sits between rose, violet, and freshly cut greens. Guerlain’s genius was in weaving these materials to recreate the flower’s shy sweetness and subtle spice, while the use of pure geraniol amplified its radiance, lending a longer-lasting brightness to what nature had made fleeting.

As the perfume deepens, the middle notes bloom into a lush bouquet. Tuberose and jasmine introduce heady, voluptuous white floral tones, rich in indole—a compound that, in small quantities, adds a warm, animalic sensuality to otherwise pure florals. Their presence gives the mignonette heart more body and natural realism, as if the garden itself has warmed under the afternoon sun. Violet and rose lend tenderness: the violet’s ionones add powdery softness, while the rose—likely Bulgarian—provides richness and romance through its natural phenylethyl alcohol. Orange blossom continues to thread through the heart, linking the top and middle with a luminous floral continuity, while orris resin (from the rhizome of the iris) introduces a buttery, violet-like texture that feels refined and nostalgic. A hint of clove—its eugenol warmth subtly spiced—anchors the bouquet, and a delicate trace of nettle provides a green edge, balancing sweetness with a touch of nature’s austerity.

The drydown is sumptuous, anchored in Guerlain’s signature oriental base—an opulent tapestry of resins, balsams, and musks. Sandalwood from Mysore offers its creamy, milky smoothness, rich in santalols that impart warmth and depth. Tonka bean brings its comforting aroma of coumarin—the scent of freshly mown hay and almond—melding beautifully with vanilla and benzoin, both of which add golden sweetness and a resinous glow. Styrax, tolu balsam, and Peru balsam contribute balsamic richness, their benzoic and cinnamic resins giving warmth and longevity to the blend. Costus root adds an earthy, slightly animalic facet, while ambergris and ambrette impart a sensual muskiness that feels both human and ethereal. The labdanum and storax lend a final smoky-amber depth, their leathery, resinous notes wrapping the perfume in an elegant, time-worn softness.

Smelling Esprit de Réséda in full bloom is to experience a conversation between nature and early perfumery’s art. The natural aroma of mignonette—gentle, shy, and fleeting—is here transformed into something enduring and luminous. The synthetics such as geraniol and coumarin do not replace nature; they extend her voice, highlighting the nuances that might otherwise fade too quickly. Together, they create an olfactory portrait of serenity and emotion—a scent that feels both like a walk through a sun-drenched garden and the echo of a memory long cherished.

In the end, Esprit de Réséda is more than a perfume—it is the distilled essence of Romanticism itself: soft yet passionate, natural yet artful, and imbued with the wistful tenderness of the age from which it was born.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1839.

Esterhazy Mixture c1828

Esterhazy Mixture, created in 1828 by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain and later renamed Eau d’Esterhazy in 1850, stands as a testament to the opulent elegance of early 19th-century perfumery. Its name pays homage to the Esterházy family, one of Hungary’s most influential noble dynasties, evoking images of stately balls, gilded salons, and a lifestyle of refined grandeur. The fragrance itself, widely recognized as a rich floral oriental for women, captured the tastes of an era when perfume was both a personal adornment and a symbol of social prestige. Housed in the elegantly squared Carré flacon, the bottle reflected the sophistication of the scent within, making it a coveted item among connoisseurs and fashionable society.

The French rendition of Esterhazy Mixture opened with the bright, green freshness of vetiver, its earthy, slightly smoky aroma providing a solid foundation that was at once grounding and noble. In German variations, ingredients such as calamus root added a subtly sweet, spicy, and aromatic warmth, while lemon brought a sparkling citrus lift, perfectly balancing the depth of the floral and oriental accords. Nutmeg introduced a delicate spiciness, and bitter almond contributed a gentle, marzipan-like nuance, heightening the complexity and luxuriousness of the blend. Finally, musk rounded the composition, imparting a soft, animalic sensuality that lingered on the skin, ensuring the fragrance’s lasting appeal.

Esterhazy Mixture followed a traditional bouquet structure, blending florals and orientals in a manner that was both rich and harmonious. Its widespread popularity, rivaling that of traditional colognes, highlights the 19th-century desire for perfumes that were bold yet refined, opulent yet wearable. The scent’s enduring reputation, alongside its elegant presentation, ensured it remained a celebrated classic of Guerlain’s early creations until at least 1853. Through its thoughtful blend of exotic and European ingredients, Esterhazy Mixture exemplifies the artistry, sophistication, and global influences that shaped perfumery during this period.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance.

• Top notes: orange, neroli, bergamot, citron, cassie, rose
• Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, jasmine, clove, rosewood, orris
• Base notes: musk, civet, sandalwood, ambergris, vanilla, tonka bean, vetiver, tobacco, Peru balsam

Scent Profile:

Esterhazy Mixture, classified as a floral oriental fragrance, is a masterful composition that unfolds like a symphony of exotic and familiar aromas, each layer revealing a story of place, tradition, and craftsmanship. At first encounter, the top notes greet the senses with a radiant burst of orange, neroli, bergamot, and citron, each contributing a sparkling citrus brightness. The neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree in the sun-drenched groves of southern Italy, carries a green, slightly honeyed floral facet, rich in linalool and linalyl acetate, which softens and enriches the citric sharpness. Bergamot, harvested from the Calabrian coast, is distinctive for its bitter-sweet nuance, tinged with a delicate floral warmth, thanks to its naturally occurring limonene and esters. The cassie, or acacia absolute, imparts a subtly powdery and honeyed nuance, while rose in the top notes adds a fresh, dewy elegance, lifting the composition with early aromatic complexity.

The heart of the fragrance blooms with a rich floral bouquet: orange blossom, rose, jasmine, clove, rosewood, and orris. Orange blossom, gathered in Morocco or Tunisia, brings a radiant, indolic sweetness, imbued with naturally occurring linalool and nerolidol, lending depth and sensuality. Jasmine, often sourced from Egypt or India, enriches the blend with its creamy, narcotic facets, a combination of benzyl acetate and jasmone giving it its hallmark elegance. The clove note introduces a warm, spicy vibrancy, anchored by eugenol, which plays beautifully against the soft, powdery facets of orris root, derived from Italian iris rhizomes, whose delicate floral-woody aroma is heightened by the naturally occurring irones. Rosewood, from South America, adds an aromatic, slightly camphorous nuance, balancing the heady florals with clarity and refinement.

The base notes provide an opulent, lingering foundation: musk, civet, sandalwood, ambergris, vanilla, tonka bean, vetiver, tobacco, and Peru balsam. Musk, originally from natural sources but often enhanced synthetically, wraps the perfume in a soft, animalic warmth, harmonizing with civet, which brings its subtly fecal yet intoxicating sensuality, evoking the depth of classical oriental perfumery. Sandalwood, from Mysore in India, provides a creamy, balsamic, and woody richness, while ambergris, harvested from the oceans near New Zealand or the Caribbean, gives the fragrance a marine-ambery lift with extraordinary longevity. Vanilla and tonka bean, rich in vanillin and coumarin, lend sweet, gourmand accents, melding beautifully with the smoky, resinous facets of Peru balsam and the earthy green spice of vetiver, harvested from Haiti or Java, with its naturally occurring vetiverol and vetivone. Finally, tobacco adds a dry, aromatic warmth, grounding the fragrance in a sophisticated oriental character.

Together, these ingredients create a luxurious, multi-layered composition where citrus and floral facets shine over a deep, warm, and sensual base. Each note, whether exotic or familiar, contributes its own personality, enhanced subtly by synthetics where needed to ensure balance and projection, resulting in a perfume that is rich, complex, and unmistakably Guerlain. The fragrance evokes an era of 19th-century elegance, aristocratic refinement, and the worldly curiosity that inspired some of the maison’s most celebrated creations.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Fleurs d’Italie c1836

Fleurs d’Italie—meaning “Flowers of Italy” in French (pronounced flur dee-tahl-yee)—is one of Guerlain’s earliest creations, dating back to around 1836, when the house was still in its formative years under Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. The name itself conjures images of the Italian countryside bathed in golden light—terraced gardens overflowing with orange blossoms, jasmine climbing along villa walls, and the soft hum of bees among citrus groves. To the 19th-century imagination, Italy was the land of romance, art, and eternal beauty—a muse for poets, painters, and perfumers alike. Choosing the name Fleurs d’Italie aligned Guerlain with the era’s fascination for all things Italian, a nation idealized as the cradle of classical culture and the heart of sensual aesthetics.

The phrase evokes warmth and emotion: sun-drenched afternoons, marble statues surrounded by blooming oleanders, and the bittersweet scent of flowers carried by sea air. In scent, Fleurs d’Italie might be imagined as a floral composition infused with Mediterranean light—orange blossom and neroli symbolizing purity, jasmine for sensuality, and perhaps a faint trace of myrtle, rose, or iris recalling the hills of Tuscany. It suggests elegance without heaviness, refinement balanced with vivacity—an olfactory portrait of an idealized Italy filtered through the romantic sensibility of the 1830s.

The perfume emerged during the Romantic Era, a time when Europe was captivated by art, emotion, and the natural world. In Paris, the bourgeoisie’s growing affluence fueled new desires for refinement and personal luxury. Women wore crinoline gowns, adorned their hair with flowers or feathers, and carried delicate glass flacons filled with scented waters or extracts—an essential part of their toilette. Perfumery was undergoing its first great flowering: chemists and artisans alike were experimenting with distillation techniques, natural essences, and early attempts at fragrance fixation. Guerlain, with his scientific precision and aesthetic instinct, was at the forefront of this transformation.

A perfume called Fleurs d’Italie would have appealed deeply to the women of this period. It embodied cosmopolitan sophistication and escapism—an aromatic journey southward at a time when travel to Italy was a romantic dream for many. Wearing it would have been akin to adorning oneself with the atmosphere of the Grand Tour: the refinement of Rome, the charm of Florence, the languor of Naples. The name alone promised warmth and beauty in a bottle—a poetic reprieve from the grayness of northern winters.

As a floral oriental fragrance, Fleurs d’Italie likely combined lush white florals with the warmth of amber, spice, or balsamic undertones—a structure that hinted at both purity and sensuality. At the time, most perfumery revolved around simple floral waters and colognes; a richer, orientalized floral would have been novel and luxurious. It bridged the familiar delicacy of European blossoms with the exotic allure of Eastern resins and spices—a precursor to the complex compositions that would later define Guerlain’s signature.

The formula’s endurance speaks to its popularity. By the mid- to late-19th century, Fleurs d’Italie—also known in Italian as Fiori d’Italia—had become a genre unto itself. Nearly every perfumer offered a variation, each striving to capture that same luminous Mediterranean spirit. Early versions were crafted solely from natural extracts, tinctures, and infusions, but by the 1880s, under Aimé Guerlain, a revised edition called Fleur d’Italie incorporated the era’s newest innovations: synthetic aromachemicals like vanillin, coumarin, and ionones. These new materials gave a modern lift and long-lasting warmth to the original natural bouquet, emphasizing the radiance of the florals while making the scent more enduring and diffusive.

Thus, Fleurs d’Italie was not just a perfume, but a reflection of its time—a dialogue between romantic idealism and scientific progress, between natural beauty and artistic innovation. It captured the spirit of 19th-century Europe: nostalgic, exploratory, and yearning for beauty that transcended borders. In its name, its sentiment, and its scent, Fleurs d’Italie remains a fragrant love letter to Italy’s timeless allure.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Fleurs d'Italie is classified as a floral oriental fragrance.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, neroli, orange, cassie, lavender, rose geranium, rose oil, jonquil 
• Middle notes: jasmine, carnation, tuberose, orange blossom, rose otto, clove, Bouvardia base, reseda, violet, ionone, orris 
• Base notes: patchouli, rosewood, civet, styrax, tolu balsam, musk, ambergris, ambrette, tonka bean, coumarin, vanilla, vanillin, benzoin, sandalwood, vetiver

Scent Profile:

Experiencing Fleurs d’Italie is like walking through a sun-drenched Italian garden at the height of spring, where every blossom is at its peak, and the air is infused with warmth, sunlight, and the faintest hint of distant spice. The opening bursts forth with citrus and aromatic florals, immediately lifting the senses. Bergamot—from the sun-kissed groves of Calabria—shimmers with sparkling freshness, its natural limonene and linalyl acetate creating a crisp, bright aura that feels simultaneously sweet and slightly bitter. 

Lemon reinforces the citrus clarity, while neroli, distilled from the delicate white blossoms of bitter orange trees, offers a honeyed floral nuance that softens the brightness. The inclusion of orange essential oil enhances the radiant sweetness, evoking Italian orchards under a warm sun. Floral green facets emerge from cassie (acacia), lavender, and rose geranium, contributing lightly powdery, herbaceous, and aromatic undertones, while rose oil adds a sophisticated floral richness. Jonquil, with its gentle, slightly fruity nuance, threads through, lending an elegant softness that prefaces the heart of the fragrance.

The heart of Fleurs d’Italie blooms like an opulent bouquet, layering florals both radiant and exotic. Jasmine, likely sourced from the Comoros or Grasse, envelops the senses with narcotic sweetness; its natural indole content adds a sensual, skin-like warmth. Carnation and clove provide subtle spiciness, their eugenol-rich essence lending warmth and a touch of powdery intensity. Tuberose, creamy and opulent, unfurls in waves of sweetness, harmonizing with the luminous orange blossom. 

Rose otto, harvested from Bulgaria or Turkey, imparts a velvety, honeyed depth, rich in geraniol and citronellol, evoking petals freshly picked in morning dew. Supporting florals—Bouvardia base, reseda, violet, and the violet-like ionone—give texture and powdery elegance, while orris root imparts a soft, buttery, iris-like veil, rounding the bouquet with gentle complexity. Together, the heart is creamy, floral, and warmly spicy, an olfactory echo of Italian gardens kissed by sunlight and shadow.

The base of Fleurs d’Italie is a luxurious tapestry of woods, resins, and musks, lending the fragrance its enduring warmth and depth. Patchouli and rosewood introduce earthy, aromatic complexity; patchouli’s camphoraceous undertones provide depth, while rosewood contributes smooth, sweet warmth. The animalic richness of civet, enhanced by the balsamic sweetness of styrax, tolu balsam, and benzoin, melds seamlessly with musk, ambergris, and ambrette, producing a sensual, skin-like embrace. Tonka bean, coumarin, and vanilla/vanillin provide creamy, powdery sweetness, their molecules softening the resins and woods while emphasizing the floral heart. Sandalwood adds a refined, milky woody softness, and vetiver provides a dry, slightly smoky finish, balancing the richness of the base.

Smelling Fleurs d’Italie as a whole, one perceives a radiant yet comforting perfume, where the bright citrus top notes evoke sunlight, the creamy, spicy floral heart suggests lush gardens in full bloom, and the warm, resinous base anchors the scent with sensuality and elegance. The interplay of natural extracts and synthetics—such as ionones and vanillin—enhances the realism of the flowers while giving longevity, projection, and harmony, illustrating Guerlain’s mastery of blending nature and science. This perfume is a quintessential floral oriental, celebrating both the elegance of 19th-century perfumery and the enduring allure of Italy’s floral landscapes distilled into a bottle.

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Fleurs d'Italie remained in production well into the early 20th century, still being sold in 1903. The fragrance was also marketed as Fleur d’Italie from 1852 and continued under that name at least until 1885.