Purple Fantasy 2001

Purple Fantasy by Guerlain, launched in 2001, was a modern fairy tale told through scent — a luminous and whimsical creation that blended freshness, sensuality, and a touch of playful mystery. The name “Purple Fantasy” immediately conjures images of dreamlike indulgence. “Purple,” a color long associated with luxury, mystery, and imagination, evokes twilight skies, ripe fruit, and velvet drapery — while “Fantasy” speaks to escapism, desire, and the allure of the unattainable. Together, the name suggests a fragrance meant to transport the wearer into a world of color and sensation — both modern and romantic, elegant yet free-spirited. The name flows easily on the tongue, its simplicity belying the sophistication of the scent it represents.

In 2001, the fragrance landscape was in transition. The exuberance of the 1990s — marked by bold, opulent power scents and sweet, gourmand compositions — was giving way to cleaner, airier fragrances that sought to balance freshness with individuality. The early 2000s were a period of subtle sensuality and sheer textures in both fashion and perfumery: sheer fabrics, metallic finishes, and pastel tones dominated the runways, while fragrances leaned toward luminous florals, transparent musks, and fruit-infused notes. Guerlain’s Purple Fantasy fit neatly within this evolution, offering a composition that was both delicate and spirited — youthful in tone, yet unmistakably refined in structure.

The word “Purple Fantasy” in scent would naturally suggest richness and dreamlike sensuality — a composition that is fruity yet sophisticated, light yet deeply feminine. Guerlain interpreted this through an accord centered on wild blackberries, a note that gives the perfume its vibrant, mouthwatering opening. The blackberry, with its tart juiciness and deep purple hue, evokes summer forests and indulgent pleasures. Layered over this are the bittersweet bigarade and bitter orange — their bright, slightly green character lending a crisp counterpoint to the fruit’s sweetness. Guerlain’s inclusion of a subtle apricot nuance, reminiscent of osmanthus, adds a creamy, suede-like dimension, suggesting soft skin and sun-warmed petals.

At its heart, the fragrance blooms with green tea, osmanthus, and jasmine, a trio that defines its gentle floral core. Green tea brings a modern freshness — serene and clear, with a delicate vegetal note that was particularly fashionable in early 2000s perfumery. Osmanthus, often sourced from China, adds its signature apricot and leathery tones, an elegant bridge between fruit and flower. Jasmine, one of Guerlain’s favorite materials, offers radiance and sensuality, softening the sharper edges and lending the composition its classic floral soul. Beneath this luminous heart lies a woody base, grounding the airy top and middle with a trace of warmth — cedar or sandalwood, used sparingly to maintain transparency.

When Purple Fantasy debuted, it stood apart from Guerlain’s traditional oriental richness. It was a fragrance of light — a modern waltz between freshness and softness, reflecting a new chapter for the house under Jean-Paul Guerlain. For women of the time, a perfume called Purple Fantasy would have embodied the spirit of possibility and personal allure — playful, confident, and just a little bit mischievous. It spoke to an era that embraced color and individuality, when scent was not only an adornment but an expression of mood. In the wider context of perfumery, Purple Fantasy aligned with contemporary trends for luminous fruity-florals but elevated them with Guerlain’s signature elegance and craftsmanship.

Ultimately, Purple Fantasy was less about fantasy as escape and more about fantasy as revelation — the everyday enchantment that lingers in color, light, and scent. It was a dream in violet tones, captured in glass — a whisper of sweetness on the skin, fleeting yet unforgettable.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Purple Fantasy is classified as a fruity floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, orange bigarade, bitter orange, neroli, coconut, wild blackberries
• Middle notes: green tea, apricot, osmanthus, jasmine, tuberose, violet, cardamom
• Base notes: sandalwood, cedar, iris

Scent Profile:

Purple Fantasy by Guerlain unfolds like a luminous daydream — one that opens in a burst of sunlight, deepens into a velvety floral heart, and settles into a soft, lingering haze of woods and iris. Each note feels deliberately chosen to evoke movement — from sparkling light to gentle warmth — creating a scent that is at once playful, feminine, and quietly sophisticated.

At first breath, the top notes shimmer with brightness and energy. The bergamot, likely sourced from Calabria, Italy, provides a sparkling citrus lift — effervescent and green, its natural compounds such as linalyl acetate and limonene give that crisp, slightly floral zest so emblematic of Italian bergamot oil. This radiance is quickly tempered by orange bigarade and bitter orange, two close relatives that add complexity and depth. The bigarade, or Seville orange, is more aromatic and resinous than sweet orange, containing linalool and citral, which lend a green, almost spicy edge. The bitter orange amplifies this with a tart freshness — less juicy, more structured — echoing the rind’s pith and the cool shadow of its leaves. Neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, drifts in next — honeyed yet airy, its soft white-floral quality bridging fruit and flower. The molecules nerolidol and linalool lend it a luminous, slightly green sensuality that captures the delicate radiance of orange blossoms swaying in sunlight.

Then, a surprising twist — a whisper of coconut, creamy but not sweet, rounds out the citrus sharpness with a silky, skin-like smoothness. Guerlain often uses subtle lactonic notes like this to create texture rather than overt gourmand warmth. Into this sunlit medley enters the wild blackberry accord — lush, juicy, and just tart enough to make the mouth water. Natural blackberry aroma is difficult to extract, so the perfumer likely employed synthetic molecules such as ionones (also found in violet and iris), ethyl maltol, and dihydromyrcenol to recreate its fruity-green nuance. The result feels like crushed berries still warm from the sun, their purple juice staining the fingers — playful, radiant, and irresistibly modern.

As the fragrance deepens, the heart reveals its velvety core — a symphony of florals and gentle spice. Green tea imparts clarity and freshness, evoking dew-covered leaves in morning light. Its faintly tannic aroma, often recreated through cis-3-hexenol and ionones, balances sweetness with vegetal transparency. Apricot slips in next, not the sugary fruit itself but its soft, golden scent derived from osmanthus, a blossom prized in China for its rich aroma of ripe apricots and suede. Osmanthus absolute is intensely nuanced — fruity, leathery, and warm — containing gamma-decalactone, the same molecule responsible for peach and apricot’s velvety fleshiness. Here, it connects the fruity opening to the floral heart, adding a sensual warmth that feels quietly indulgent.

The jasmine emerges next — lush and creamy, woven through with hints of indole, lending both brightness and flesh. Its narcotic sweetness is tempered by the crispness of tuberose, whose mentholated greenness lifts the blend while adding a touch of white-floral luxury. Both flowers contain benzyl acetate and methyl anthranilate, molecules that create that heady, sweet, and almost grape-like floral diffusion. These are softened by violet, powdery and cool, its ionones harmonizing with those in the blackberry and iris to create continuity from top to base. A trace of cardamom lends quiet intrigue — its camphorous, lemony warmth subtly threading through the florals, giving a sense of sophistication without overpowering.

Finally, Purple Fantasy settles into its serene, elegant base. Sandalwood, creamy and lactonic, forms the foundation — likely an Indian Mysore or sustainably sourced Australian variety. Its principal molecule, santalol, gives that velvety, lingering softness that feels like polished wood and warm skin. Cedarwood follows, dry and silken, grounding the composition with its slightly resinous, pencil-shaving aroma; its cedrol and thujopsene notes add both structure and radiance. The finale belongs to iris, one of Guerlain’s most beloved ingredients. Derived from the rhizome of the Iris pallida grown in Tuscany, this material lends a powdery, buttery texture, rich in irones — molecules responsible for its violet-like coolness and refined luxury. In Purple Fantasy, the iris wraps all preceding notes in a soft-focus glow, transforming fruit and flower into a delicate, lingering veil of powder and wood.

The interplay of natural and synthetic materials in Purple Fantasy is masterful — the synthetics do not replace, but rather illuminate the naturals, enhancing their radiance and longevity. The synthetic blackberry and apricot accords highlight the lushness of osmanthus; the ionones in violet smooth the transition to iris; the creamy sandalwood and cedar, bolstered by fixatives, lend quiet persistence.

Smelling Purple Fantasy feels like walking through a garden at dusk — the light fading, the air shimmering with floral breath and the faint sweetness of ripe fruit. It is a fragrance of twilight sensuality, where every note glows softly, like the afterimage of a dream painted in shades of violet and gold.

Bottles:

It was first presented in the 1 oz modified Louis XVI spray flacon (eau de toilette), but in a wild purple hue and satin and blue fabric drawstring pouch.

Fate of the Fragrance:

It was discontinued shortly after its introduction. It was then relaunched in 2005 as an eau de parfum in the Les Parisiennes line.

Rose Nacree du Desert c2012

Rose Nacrée du Désert — translated from French as “Mother-of-Pearl Rose of the Desert” (pronounced rohz nah-cray dew day-zair) — is a name that sounds as poetic as it smells. The phrase immediately conjures a vision of something both fragile and eternal: a shimmering rose blooming in the stillness of the dunes, its petals glistening like nacre under the rising sun. The choice of the word nacrée (“pearly” or “iridescent”) evokes softness, luminescence, and rarity, suggesting that this rose is not of the garden, but of the spirit — born from heat, silence, and sand. Guerlain, with its centuries-long tradition of translating beauty into scent, chose this name to evoke an image of mystery and refinement, merging French romanticism with the grandeur and sensuality of the Middle East.

When Rose Nacrée du Désert was launched in 2012, it arrived at a time when Western perfumery was undergoing a profound renaissance of oriental inspiration. The early 2010s saw the global perfume industry fascinated by the opulence of Middle Eastern raw materials — oud, saffron, amber, and rose — marking the beginning of what is often referred to as the “Oud Era.” Fashion mirrored this fascination: couture houses experimented with flowing silhouettes, gilded embellishments, and jewel tones that echoed the East’s splendor. Guerlain’s Les Déserts d’Orient collection was both a tribute and a dialogue — a way of bridging two perfume cultures through craftsmanship, authenticity, and shared sensuality.

The name Rose Nacrée du Désert also carries emotional depth. It speaks to dualities — delicacy and endurance, softness and strength, bloom and desolation. For women and men of the time, this fragrance represented not merely an aesthetic choice but an attitude: one of elegance rooted in mystery. It evoked the allure of travel, the poetry of solitude, and the beauty found in unlikely places. To wear such a perfume was to carry with you a secret — a rose that glows even when the world turns to shadow.

In scent, Rose Nacrée du Désert interprets its name with masterful precision. Thierry Wasser selected the Persian rose — grown in Iran and used here for the first time in perfumery — for its distinctively rich and saffron-tinged character. Unlike the soft, honeyed Bulgarian rose or the crisp Turkish variety, the Persian rose carries a darker, almost leathery nuance, its petals exuding a natural warmth that harmonizes effortlessly with the oud accord at the fragrance’s heart. The oud — built from patchouli, gaiac wood, and dry amber — provides depth and gravitas, yet remains refined rather than overpowering. It is an oud interpreted through Guerlain’s lens: polished, elegant, and suffused with light.

To the modern nose in 2012, Rose Nacrée du Désert stood apart from the numerous oud-and-rose pairings flooding the market. While many perfumes of the time pursued density and power, Wasser’s creation favored texture and balance — a silken interplay between smoky wood and translucent floral light. It honored the codes of oriental perfumery without imitation, capturing the romance of Guerlain’s French heritage while paying sincere homage to the perfumed traditions of the Middle East.

Ultimately, Rose Nacrée du Désert was more than a fragrance — it was a story in scent. It spoke of sunrise over the dunes, of a single rose glowing beneath an amber sky, its scent suspended between memory and mirage. It invited wearers, whether women or men, into that luminous stillness where time and beauty seem to pause — and where, just for a moment, one can breathe eternity.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Rose Nacree du Desert is classified as a woody floral fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: saffron note, Persian rose, patchouli
• Middle notes: cardamom, curcuma, cedar wood, oud accord
• Base notes: myrrh, benzoin

Scent Profile:

The first breath of Rose Nacrée du Désert opens like the dawn over the Persian landscape — warm, shimmering, and touched by the spice of sun-baked air. The initial impression is led by saffron, one of the most precious ingredients in perfumery and in history. Here, it feels like strands of red-gold silk — slightly metallic, honeyed, and leathery at once. The saffron note used by Guerlain is one specially crafted by Thierry Wasser, designed to replicate the complex, multi-faceted scent of the true Iranian spice, whose aroma owes much to safranal and picrocrocin, natural compounds that give it its bittersweet and leathery nuance. In perfumery, saffron often bridges floral and woody notes, creating a glowing, amber-like warmth that lingers just beneath the surface.

Immediately intertwined with it is the Persian rose, the beating heart of the fragrance. Grown in the highlands of Iran, this rose differs profoundly from its Bulgarian and Turkish cousins. The arid climate and mineral-rich soil produce blooms that are drier, more resinous, and more spiced — a rose with a subtle leathery tone and a faint thread of smoke. Chemically rich in citronellol, geraniol, and phenylethyl alcohol, its scent captures both the dewiness of fresh petals and the dusky shadow of the desert evening. The synthetic supports around the rose — modern aroma molecules that amplify its longevity — act as translucent veils, allowing the natural essence to retain its radiance without heaviness. Together, saffron and rose unfold like silk unfurling, a golden-red tapestry of warmth and sensuality.

As the fragrance deepens, the patchouli rises — dark, earthy, and slightly camphorous. Guerlain’s patchouli, likely sourced from Indonesia or India, is refined to highlight its most elegant aspects, removing the musty, damp facets while keeping its spicy depth intact. Patchouli’s main components, patchoulol and norpatchoulenol, create a grounding effect, linking the airy rose to the resinous heart that follows. Then comes the warmth of cardamom and curcuma (turmeric) — spices that shimmer like sunlight caught in amber. Cardamom adds a cool, aromatic brightness with its cineole and terpinyl acetate molecules, while turmeric offers an earthy, golden undertone, softening the sharper edges of the composition. Together, they lend the perfume both exotic warmth and balance — a reminder of spice markets and polished wooden chests.

The woody backbone of the perfume begins to assert itself through cedar wood and oud accord. Guerlain’s cedar, likely from Atlas or Virginia sources, imparts a pencil-shaving dryness and gentle smokiness, full of cedrol and thujopsene, lending both structure and calm. The oud accord is not raw agarwood, but a sophisticated recreation blending patchouli, gaiac wood, and amber materials to emulate the ancient resin’s dark, smoky sweetness. This accord ensures the oud remains elegant and wearable, without the animalic bite of natural oud oil. It provides a dusky, velvety texture — a shadow for the rose’s glow to play against.

As the perfume settles, the base emerges — myrrh and benzoin, the twin resins that anchor the entire composition. The myrrh, sourced from the Horn of Africa, breathes a bitter-sweet incense note, full of depth and solemnity, its complexity owed to furanoeudesma-1,3-diene and other aromatic sesquiterpenes that create its sacred, resinous aura. The benzoin, likely from Siam (Thailand), wraps everything in a golden balsamic sweetness — its vanillin-like qualities lending a honeyed warmth that echoes the saffron of the opening. The marriage of these two resins with the musky undertone of the oud gives the scent an enduring sensuality — smoky, sweet, and profoundly comforting.

The impression left by Rose Nacrée du Désert is one of fluid contrast — the shimmer of spice against the softness of floral petals, the sacred hush of resins against the glow of sun-warmed wood. Each note breathes in rhythm, capturing the soul of the desert itself: vast, mysterious, and quietly alive. It is both a fragrance and a reverie — a rose carved from sunlight and shadow, its every facet polished by the desert wind.

Bottle:

Available as: 75ml eau de parfum (unisex)

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Encens Mythique d'Orient c2012

Encens Mythique d’Orient (pronounced "Ahn-sahn Mee-teek doh-ree-ahn") translates from French to “Mythical Incense of the Orient.” The name immediately evokes mystery and grandeur — a sense of reverence, like entering a sacred place perfumed by centuries of history. The word “Encens” means incense, suggesting something spiritual, meditative, and enduring, while “Mythique” alludes to legend and timeless beauty. Together, the phrase conjures the image of an ancient temple at dusk, where wisps of aromatic smoke curl toward vaulted ceilings as golden light reflects off mosaic walls. It is a name steeped in both sensuality and serenity — the essence of the East as imagined through the poetic lens of French perfumery.

When Guerlain introduced Encens Mythique d’Orient in 2012, the house was reaffirming its deep connection to Orientalism — a theme that had defined much of its creative identity since the 19th century. The early 2010s were marked by a renewed fascination with luxury craftsmanship and exotic materials, as Western perfume houses sought to engage the growing Middle Eastern market. This period, often described as the “resurgence of artisanal perfumery,” emphasized richness, longevity, and opulent raw ingredients. Fashion, too, reflected this taste for the sumptuous and global — designers like Elie Saab, Balmain, and Valentino explored ornate embroidery, flowing silhouettes, and jewel-toned palettes that mirrored the lush complexity of Eastern aesthetics. Guerlain’s Les Déserts d’Orient collection arrived perfectly within this cultural moment, bridging French refinement with the region’s deep-rooted love of perfumed storytelling.

To a woman (or man) of that era, a fragrance named Encens Mythique d’Orient would have carried a sense of discovery and reverence. It spoke of luxury that transcended the material — of spirituality expressed through scent. The name suggested not a fleeting trend, but an eternal idea: incense as the universal language of devotion. It would have appealed to those drawn to fragrances that lingered like memory — elegant, introspective, and quietly powerful.

In olfactory interpretation, Encens Mythique d’Orient transformed its name into an experience that balanced the sacred with the sensual. Thierry Wasser built the perfume around frankincense, the age-old resin that embodies spiritual purity, and rose, the eternal symbol of love and beauty. Yet, at its core lies ambergris, one of perfumery’s rarest treasures, sourced from the waters surrounding New Zealand. Wasser’s innovative approach to this material — blending various ambergris blocks distinguished by their marine, warm, and animalic nuances — allowed him to create a “communelle” of extraordinary depth and smoothness. The result was not simply a perfume, but an olfactory composition that conveyed both majesty and intimacy.

Within the context of contemporary perfumery, Encens Mythique d’Orient stood apart from the minimalism that dominated much of Western fragrance design in the early 2010s. While many brands pursued sheer, clean compositions, Guerlain instead offered something unapologetically opulent — a fragrance that celebrated the raw materials themselves and the artistry of blending. It was modern in its polish, yet ancient in spirit, proving that the allure of the mythical East still held the power to enchant a new generation of perfume lovers.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Encens Mythique d'Orient is classified as a musky oriental fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: rose, aldehyde, saffron note.
• Middle notes: pink pepper, vetiver, patchouli.
• Base notes: forest floor notes, ambergris, frankincense.

Scent Profile:

At first breath, Encens Mythique d’Orient opens with a whisper of rose, a bloom that feels at once ancient and eternal. This is not a tender garden rose, but rather a lush, honeyed variety — most likely the Damask rose from Bulgaria, famed for its voluptuous depth and naturally high concentration of citronellol and geraniol, compounds that lend an exquisite blend of freshness and warmth. The rose here feels liquid and luminous, its dewy sweetness tempered by the shimmer of aldehydes. These aldehydes — synthetic molecules prized since the early 20th century — lift the floral heart like sunlight refracting through crystal, imparting an almost effervescent quality. They magnify the rose’s radiance, making it feel more airy, more celestial, as though the petals themselves were infused with starlight.

Threaded through this light is the golden, leathery strand of saffron, the “red gold” of perfumery. Likely drawn from Iranian or Kashmiri crocus stigmas — among the finest in the world — this note offers a duality of dry spice and soft warmth. The key molecule, safranal, contributes its distinctive metallic-hay tone, while traces of picrocrocin add a delicate bitterness that prevents the scent from turning overly sweet. In Encens Mythique d’Orient, the saffron serves as both bridge and contrast: it anchors the airy rose in something more tactile, more human — a whisper of skin and sun-drenched spice that hints at mystery and heat.

As the fragrance deepens, the heart reveals a composition of pink pepper, vetiver, and patchouli, each chosen for its ability to both contrast and complement. The pink pepper from Réunion or Madagascar brings a lively, rosé-like sparkle — a gentle bite of limonene and β-pinene that tingles on the skin, brightening the composition’s edges. Beneath it lies vetiver, almost certainly Haitian, celebrated for its dry, woody elegance and its remarkably high vetiverol content, which imparts that noble smokiness Guerlain so often weaves into its orientals. The vetiver’s earthy rootiness harmonizes with the patchouli, whose Indonesian origin ensures a smoother, less camphorous profile — rich in patchoulol and norpatchoulenol, molecules that create a velvety, shadowed depth. Here, the natural patchouli is softened by subtle synthetic modifiers, perhaps Iso E Super or similar molecules, which add translucence and allow the richness to diffuse gracefully, like incense smoke in an airy hall.

Then comes the descent into the base — an atmosphere of forest floor, ambergris, and frankincense. The forest accord feels dark and damp, an evocation of moss and earth tinged with resin, likely supported by notes of oakmoss absolute or synthetic Evernyl, which reproduce the cool, leathery green facets of lichen without overpowering the composition. Ambergris, sourced from the coasts of New Zealand as Guerlain has described, brings an almost paradoxical duality — salty yet warm, marine yet animalic. Its primary component, ambrein, yields upon oxidation the ethereal, radiant tones of ambery and musky sweetness, wrapping the skin like sun-warmed silk.

Finally, frankincense rises — silvery and sacred. Extracted from Boswellia trees of Oman or Somalia, this resin contains α-pinene and limonene, which lend brightness, while incensole acetate provides the meditative, balsamic calm at the core of incense smoke. In Encens Mythique d’Orient, the frankincense does not burn; it smolders softly, mingling with the ambergris to create an illusion of divine stillness.

Altogether, the fragrance breathes like an ancient cathedral illuminated by desert light — rose petals scattered on stone, curls of incense winding upward through golden air. The synthesis of natural and synthetic elements is masterful: the aldehydes expand the rose, the synthetics refine the earthiness, and the ambergris accord amplifies the resins into something timeless. Encens Mythique d’Orient is not merely a scent but a reverie — a meditation on the meeting of heaven and earth, light and shadow, the seen and the unseen.

Bottle:

The Déserts d’Orient fragrances are housed in simple, streamlined bottles gorgeously illuminated by a shower of gold, like a symbol of riches: a sign of belonging to a world in which this precious material has always been given pride of place. Available as: 75ml eau de parfum

Fate of the Fragrance:

Guerlain's original "Encens Mythique d'Orient" from the Les Déserts d'Orient collection was discontinued and reformulated in 2019 into a new fragrance, Les Absolus d'Orient Encens Mythique.

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete c2012

Songe d’un Bois d’Été, launched in 2012 as part of Guerlain’s Les Déserts d’Orient collection, represents the meeting point between East and West—a tribute to the perfumed opulence of the Middle East seen through the lens of Guerlain’s refined French artistry. The name, Songe d’un Bois d’Été, is French for “Dream of a Summer Wood.” Pronounced "Sohnzh dun Bwah day-TAY", it evokes poetry, mystery, and sensual warmth. The word songe—meaning “dream”—immediately suggests reverie, a drifting of the senses into a luxurious, sun-drenched landscape. One imagines a forest glowing under a golden dusk, resin and smoke rising from the earth, the air thick with the scent of wood, leather, and spice. It is a name that feels both intimate and infinite—rooted in nature, yet touched by the ethereal.

When Songe d’un Bois d’Été was introduced, perfumery was experiencing a renaissance of Middle Eastern influence. Western houses were increasingly fascinated by oud, myrrh, amber, and the ancient rituals of perfumed oils and resins. Guerlain’s choice to release the Les Déserts d’Orient line exclusively to the Middle Eastern market was a respectful nod to this tradition—an acknowledgment that the region had long been the cradle of perfumery. In fashion, 2012 was an era of global fusion: opulent fabrics, metallic embroidery, and desert-inspired palettes appeared on couture runways. In scent, rich, resinous compositions—once considered niche—were becoming symbols of sophistication. For a woman or man of this time, wearing a perfume called Songe d’un Bois d’Été meant embracing the modern mystique of the Orient—a fragrance that spoke of refinement, sensual depth, and cultural reverence.

The name “Dream of a Summer Wood” is beautifully interpreted in scent. Thierry Wasser envisioned a forest warmed by the sun yet cloaked in shadows—a tension between heat and coolness, light and dark. The composition is anchored by woods—especially cedar and patchouli—which form the backbone of the perfume. Cedar, often sourced from the Atlas Mountains of Morocco, imparts its dry, aromatic tone, rich in cedrol and thujopsene, molecules that lend the scent its distinctive woody clarity. Patchouli, from Indonesia, brings depth and body—its earthy, camphorous character arising from patchoulol and norpatchoulenol. In this composition, patchouli’s natural damp darkness is polished and refined, evoking aged wood perfumed by desert winds.

Threaded through this heart is myrrh, one of perfumery’s most ancient resins, revered since antiquity for its bittersweet, balsamic warmth. Myrrh’s furanoeudesma-1,3-diene molecules give it its characteristic medicinal-amber tone, but Wasser softens its austerity with saffron—perhaps the perfume’s most striking feature. The saffron accord, created specially for this collection, glows like molten gold. Sourced from the fragile stigmas of the crocus flower—harvested by hand in Iran and Kashmir—saffron’s aroma blends leathery, spicy, and slightly honeyed notes. Its key aroma chemical, safranal, produces a radiant warmth that feels both exotic and human, enhancing the woody-leathery facets of the fragrance.

As the perfume deepens, hints of leather and amber emerge, adding tactile richness and a subtle sensuality. The “leather” here is not raw or smoky, but smooth and supple—an impression achieved through the blending of natural balsams with modern synthetics such as isobutyl quinoline or suederal, which lend texture and depth without heaviness. The interplay between saffron and leather is masterful: together they conjure the image of sun-warmed hide, incense smoke, and burnished wood.

Ultimately, Songe d’un Bois d’Été is a study in contrasts—light and dark, masculine and feminine, modern and ancient. Its structure is precise, yet its mood is dreamlike. Guerlain’s creation stands apart from many of the oud-laden scents of its time by focusing instead on the idea of wood and the feeling of heat, rather than the literal heaviness of resin. It feels contemplative and elegant, like the scent of a cedar forest at twilight—still warm from the day’s sun, yet cooling under a velvet night. For the wearer, it is an olfactory dream: one that lingers on the skin like memory, rich with mystery, sensuality, and the timeless soul of the desert.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Songe d'un Bois d'Ete is classified as a leather fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: bay leaf, neroli
• Middle notes: patchouli, saffron, jasmine, cedar 
• Base notes: leather, myrrh

Scent Profile:

Songe d’un Bois d’Été opens like the breath of an ancient breeze drifting through a dusky forest warmed by the last light of day. Created by Thierry Wasser for Guerlain’s Les Déserts d’Orient collection in 2012, the fragrance is a study in shadow and glow — a seamless fusion of resin, spice, and soft leather that mirrors the mystery and majesty of the desert night. Each note is carefully selected to evoke both the natural splendor of the East and the refinement of French perfumery, blending the two traditions in perfect symmetry.

The opening unfurls with bay leaf and neroli, an unusual pairing that immediately conjures contrast — aromatic and green against radiant floral light. The bay leaf, most likely from the Mediterranean basin, releases its sharp, camphorous aroma full of eugenol and cineole, molecules that lend both spice and clarity. It smells like crushed leaves warmed by the sun — peppery, dry, slightly medicinal, and almost masculine in its bite. The neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree in Tunisia or Morocco, counters this austerity with its golden softness. Linalool and limonene give neroli its delicate citrus sparkle, while indoles add an undercurrent of sensual warmth. Together, these two notes establish a tone of quiet strength — both contemplative and alive, as if the perfume is waking from a dream.

In the heart, the composition deepens into the richness that defines Songe d’un Bois d’Été. Patchouli, often sourced from Indonesia or India, anchors the center with its earthy, humus-like intensity. Its main components — patchoulol, alpha-bulnesene, and beta-caryophyllene — create a dark, grounding rhythm reminiscent of damp soil and polished wood. Yet, here it is refined, not heavy; Thierry Wasser tempers it with saffron, a specially crafted note designed for the Déserts d’Orient collection. True saffron, harvested from the stigmas of Crocus sativus flowers in Iran or Kashmir, is among the most precious ingredients in perfumery. Its unique molecules — safranal and crocin — release a scent that is simultaneously spicy, leathery, and faintly honeyed. Wasser’s saffron note mirrors this elusive beauty, amplifying the natural aroma with synthetics that enhance its luminous depth and elongate its life on skin.

Threaded through this heart is jasmine, possibly from Egypt, its narcotic sweetness softened by the warmth of cedarwood. The jasmine’s benzyl acetate and indole compounds bring an intoxicating floral glow that melts into the wood’s dry, balsamic smoothness. Cedarwood, particularly from Atlas or Virginia sources, provides a silken frame — pencil-shaving dry, lightly resinous, with a faint touch of honey. The interplay between jasmine’s opulence and cedar’s restraint evokes the sensation of sunlight filtering through a canopy — radiant and shadowed all at once.

As the fragrance settles, leather and myrrh dominate the base, creating a finale that feels both sacred and sensual. The leather accord, likely constructed from isobutyl quinoline and birch tar synthetics, exudes a smoky, animalic warmth that recalls well-worn saddles or burnished hide. It is softened by myrrh, a resin obtained from Commiphora myrrha trees native to Somalia and Yemen. Myrrh’s composition — rich in furanodiene and curzerene — yields a bittersweet aroma of balsamic resin, incense, and warm amber. Here, it infuses the leather with a golden, meditative depth, as though smoke from a ceremonial fire had woven itself into the fabric of the perfume.

Songe d’un Bois d’Été evolves like a journey through layers of shadow and flame. From the aromatic brightness of bay and neroli to the darkly spiced heart and smoldering resinous base, it tells the story of a dream half-remembered — one where the air is perfumed with the scent of sun-warmed wood, sacred smoke, and distant flowers. It is at once masculine and feminine, modern and timeless — a fragrance that seems to breathe with the rhythm of the earth itself.

Bottle:

The Déserts d’Orient fragrances are housed in simple, streamlined bottles gorgeously illuminated by a shower of gold, like a symbol of riches: a sign of belonging to a world in which this precious material has always been given pride of place.  Available as: 75ml eau de parfum

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Spiritueuse Double Vanille c2007

Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain, launched in 2007 as part of the exclusive L’Art et la Matière collection, is more than a perfume—it is a hymn to the warmth of memory, the intoxication of craftsmanship, and the mystique of true vanilla. The name itself is French: Spiritueuse (pronounced “spee-ree-tyuhz”) meaning “spirited” or “spirituous,” suggesting alcohol, essence, or something that uplifts and enlivens; and Double Vanille (pronounced “doo-bluh vah-nee”) meaning “double vanilla.” Together, the name evokes an image of a richly concentrated elixir—a heady, luxurious essence of vanilla amplified to its fullest expression. It conjures sensations of deep amber light, fine cognac, and sun-warmed wood, blending sensuality with spiritual reverence.

When Guerlain released this fragrance, the world was emerging from the minimalist transparency of the 1990s into a more indulgent, sensory era. The mid-2000s marked a return to richness in perfumery—a period when niche and artisanal scents began to challenge the conventions of mainstream perfumery. Fashions were luxurious yet understated: satin, lace, and metallic hues dominated runways, while fragrance lovers sought authenticity and depth. Spiritueuse Double Vanille arrived as a counterpoint to fleeting, fruity florals—it was introspective, romantic, and unapologetically rich. For women and men alike, it represented warmth, comfort, and sophistication—a scent that felt both intimate and timeless.

To interpret Spiritueuse Double Vanille in scent is to imagine liquid gold steeped in aged wood and ambered light. The fragrance opens with the gentle heat of pink peppercorns, their rosy sparkle adding brightness and lift to what might otherwise be a purely gourmand beginning. The pepper’s piperine molecules create a subtle, tingling warmth—an aromatic prelude that recalls the gentle burn of spiced rum. This leads into the heart, where rose and ylang-ylang unfold like silken petals on skin. The rose, likely Turkish or Bulgarian, carries a honeyed depth from its citronellol and geraniol components, while ylang-ylang from the Comoros or Madagascar contributes its creamy, narcotic floralcy—rich in benzyl acetate and p-cresyl methyl ether, giving a sensation of molten gold and tropical languor. These florals are not sweet in the conventional sense; rather, they expand and illuminate the vanilla at the center, like candlelight glowing through amber glass.

At its core lies the heart of the perfume—Madagascar vanilla, dark, boozy, and luscious. The vanilla orchid (Vanilla planifolia) is a marvel of nature and human ingenuity. Native to Mexico but hand-pollinated on islands such as Madagascar and Réunion, it yields beans that are slow-cured for months until they develop their signature aroma—a blend of vanillin, coumarin, anisaldehyde, and traces of guaiacol. These natural molecules give vanilla its dual nature: warm and comforting, yet carnal and smoky. Guerlain’s “double” vanilla effect is achieved by layering natural vanilla absolute with vanillin and other synthetic facets, enhancing its roundness and depth while adding a dry, slightly woody tone that prevents it from becoming cloying.

The base is where Spiritueuse Double Vanille achieves its serene majesty. Cedarwood lends its linear, resinous clarity—rich in cedrol and thujopsene, evoking the scent of aged barrels and fine tobacco. Benzoin from Laos deepens the composition with its balsamic sweetness, its benzoic acid and vanillin-like molecules echoing the main theme and binding all elements together with a golden resinous sheen. Finally, incense threads through the base, a whisper of sacred smoke that balances the gourmand warmth with a sense of transcendence. The result is an olfactory chiaroscuro—where sweetness meets shadow, sensuality meets serenity.

In the context of 2007, Spiritueuse Double Vanille stood apart. While gourmand notes had been popular since the early 1990s, none had achieved this level of refinement and emotional depth. Where other vanilla perfumes were playful or confectionary, Guerlain’s creation was soulful and mature—an aromatic meditation. The name, the story, and the craftsmanship all reflected the brand’s heritage of sensual luxury and poetic storytelling.

To wear Spiritueuse Double Vanille is to inhabit warmth itself: a silk shawl scented with smoke and sugar, a glass of fine rum beside a flickering fire, a memory of love sealed in amber. It is a fragrance that transforms vanilla from comfort to art—a spirituous double distillation of nostalgia and passion.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Spiritueuse Double Vanille is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: pink peppercorn and bergamot
• Middle notes: spices, ylang-ylang, cedar and Bulgarian rose
• Base notes: ambergris accord, benzoin, vanilla and incense

Scent Profile:

Spiritueuse Double Vanille unfolds like an amber tapestry woven with gold thread—each note a layer of warmth, smoke, and sweetness that feels both ancient and indulgently modern. As you first breathe it in, the opening greets you with a shimmer of pink peppercorn, its rosy hue immediately bright and lively. The tiny pepper berries from Réunion or Madagascar release a burst of piperine and linalool, molecules that lend a subtle, spicy sparkle. The scent tingles softly on the skin—effervescent and slightly fruity, reminiscent of crushed berries soaked in sunlight. Alongside it, bergamot from Calabria unfurls with its characteristic green luminosity. This Italian citrus, prized for its uniquely balanced ratio of linalyl acetate and limonene, lends a crisp, radiant freshness that acts as a glimmering prelude to the deeper story to come. The top is both bright and mysterious—a golden doorway leading into shadowed warmth.

As the first notes settle, the heart of the fragrance begins to glow with an enveloping sensuality. A soft veil of spices—cardamom’s cool camphorous breath, a hint of clove-like warmth, perhaps a trace of cinnamon—adds dimension and rhythm, like the pulse of exotic markets and aged barrels. Then comes ylang-ylang, one of the stars of the composition. Harvested from the Comoros or Madagascar, this tropical flower is renowned for its voluptuous, creamy scent. Rich in benzyl acetate, p-cresyl methyl ether, and linalool, it possesses both narcotic floral sweetness and an undercurrent of warm spice. In Spiritueuse Double Vanille, ylang-ylang drapes itself like silk across the composition, softening the intensity of the spices while amplifying the perfume’s golden warmth.

Next, Bulgarian rose blooms with regal grace—velvety, deep, and slightly honeyed. Bulgarian rose oil, distilled from Rosa damascena, is treasured for its layered complexity, which comes from its wealth of citronellol, geraniol, and phenylethyl alcohol. These molecules give it a multifaceted aroma that shifts between fresh petals, ripe fruit, and dew-kissed warmth. The rose acts as the emotional heart of the fragrance—romantic yet dignified, its softness balancing the richness of the vanilla to come. Threaded through these petals is cedar, dry and refined, its pencil-shaving clarity grounding the floral sweetness. Cedrol and thujopsene within the cedar add texture, evoking polished wood and the faint smoke of an open hearth.

The base—deep, lingering, and reverent—is where Spiritueuse Double Vanille truly lives up to its name. Vanilla from Madagascar forms the soul of the composition: dark, resinous, and intoxicating. The beans, hand-pollinated and cured under tropical sun, release an aroma rich in vanillin, coumarin, and anisaldehyde. These molecules lend the vanilla its complex character—warm, slightly woody, and infused with an almost rum-like sweetness. To enhance its natural depth, Guerlain layers the natural absolute with synthetic vanillin and ethyl vanillin, amplifying the creamy richness while giving it greater projection and longevity.

Supporting the vanilla is benzoin from Laos, its balsamic sweetness rounding out the perfume with a resinous, ambered warmth. Containing benzoic acid and vanillin-like compounds, benzoin acts as a bridge—binding the smoky and sweet elements into one seamless whole. Ambergris accord, recreated through synthetics such as ambroxan, lends a whisper of oceanic depth—a salty, animalic smoothness that gives the composition its sensual persistence. Finally, incense curls through the air like a thin trail of smoke, its sacred tone tempering the gourmand richness with solemn grace. Its olibanol and octyl acetate molecules contribute that signature cool, resinous hush that seems to lift the sweetness heavenward.

Smelling Spiritueuse Double Vanille is like tracing a journey through light and shadow. The bergamot sparkles, the florals glow, the woods smolder, and the vanilla hums like warm skin kissed by sunlight. The natural materials—each from a place where craft and climate converge perfectly—intertwine with modern synthetics to form something transcendent. It is not merely a vanilla perfume, but an olfactory spirit—at once carnal and sacred, intimate and infinite—a fragrance that embodies warmth, devotion, and the soul of Guerlain’s artistry.

Bottles:

original SDV bottle

SDV bottle as of 2011.

Current SDV bottle

Foin Coupe c1850

Foin Coupé by Guerlain, launched in 1850 and likely crafted in the 1830s, draws its evocative name from the French phrase meaning "cut hay." This name captures a vivid pastoral scene, conjuring the image of freshly harvested hay fields with their crisp, green, and slightly sweet aroma. The term "Foin Coupé" embodies the rustic charm and the sensory pleasure associated with the countryside at harvest time. By evoking the essence of new mown hay, the name suggests a fragrance that is both fresh and intimately connected to nature.

The olfactory interpretation of Foin Coupé would center around this imagery. The scent would likely open with vibrant, green notes reminiscent of freshly cut grass and hay, carrying a hint of the sweetness and dryness of sun-dried hay. This would appeal to both men and women of the time who were drawn to fragrances that mirrored the natural world and evoked a sense of pastoral tranquility.

During the 19th century, the popularity of Foin Coupé (Guerlain also released in English as "New Mown Hay") reflects a broader trend in perfumery of incorporating natural elements into scent compositions. Fragrances of this period often sought to capture the essence of nature, blending floral and green notes with a touch of the animalic to create depth. The use of natural extracts, infusions, and tinctures was common, but as the century progressed, the inclusion of synthetics like coumarin in the 1896 reformulation allowed for a more consistent and long-lasting representation of these natural scents.

In the context of other fragrances available at the time, New Mown Hay stands out for its distinct approach. While many perfumes were focusing on rich, floral, and exotic notes, Guerlain's choice to craft a scent around the more humble and earthy aroma of cut hay offered a refreshing contrast. This innovative approach highlighted a growing appreciation for authenticity in scent and a deepened connection to the natural world, marking Foin Coupé as both a product of its time and a unique departure from prevailing trends.

 

New Mown Hay emerged as a quintessential fragrance of the 19th century, resonating with the pastoral elegance and rustic charm of its namesake. During this period, like Guerlain, nearly every perfumery boasted their own rendition of this scent, reflecting its widespread appeal and significance. The perfume's formulation, detailed in numerous perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias, combined floral notes with subtle animalic undertones, capturing the essence of freshly cut hay.

Initially crafted using natural extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures, New Mown Hay would have conveyed a rich, multifaceted aroma reminiscent of sun-drenched fields. These ingredients aimed to evoke the crisp, green scent of newly harvested hay, blended with floral notes to enrich the fragrance's complexity. However, as the 19th century progressed, the introduction of synthetic compounds transformed the perfume industry. In 1896, New Mown Hay was reformulated to incorporate coumarin, a synthetic essence isolated in 1868 and known for its hay-like scent. This innovation enhanced the perfume's longevity and consistency, marking a significant shift in fragrance composition and demonstrating the era's growing embrace of synthetic materials alongside traditional natural ingredients.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet, woodsy floral fragrance for men and women. It had notes of new mown hay, herbal notes, tonka, sweet woodruff.

• Top notes: bergamot, rose geranium, neroli, lavender
• Middle notes: herbs, moss rose, orris, clove, sweet woodruff, almond
• Base notes: tonka bean, musk, benzoin, vanilla, styrax, sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss

The scent of new mown hay has always been a favorite in perfumery. Foin Coupé as it is known in France, evokes the fresh hay cut during a sunny day. Like an open window, this scent recalls sun-drenched summer days. It is made up of different herbs and wild flowers. The fragrance of new mown hay usually has to be made synthetically. The sweetness comes from coumarin, an aromatic lactone being present in several grasses, sweet vernal grass and bison grass, for instance. The coumarin is glycosidically bound in the green plants but is liberated upon withering of the grass.

In perfumery, the "new mown hay" scent is almost an archetype. Based on coumarin (and analogues), and often supplemented with mossy and green nuances, this odor complex enters a multitude of fragrances. Actually coumarin was one of the first perfumery ingredients to be made by organic synthesis. Coumarin was created by William Perkin of England in 1868, an important aroma-chemical which has a hay-like aroma with coconut under tones, however it is banned as a food additive in the United States due to toxicity; is used to produce anti-coagulant medicines, rat poison, a valuable component of incense and perfumes. Coumarin is a fine white crystal that smells like new mown hay. It gives a mild powdery sweet hay note and a great deal of volume and fullness to a perfume. Tonka bean contains a lot of coumarin and smells similar.

An early perfumery masterpiece utilizing synthetic coumarin was Fougère Royale by Houbigant, launched in 1882. Houbigant combined the sweet scent of Coumarin with lavender, citrus and woody notes. It is this basic structure that defines a Fougere. Guerlain created Jicky in 1889 which was their first scent using coumarin.

Hay Absolute: Of the genus foin coupe. The term Hay in this place refers to the type of 'new mown hay.' ; has been used for perfume base creations for many decades; the aroma is powerful and extremely sweet, quite diffusive, coumarin-like and faintly herbaceous, very uniform and tenacious. Used in perfumery not only in 'new mown hay' bases, or in combination with flouve, melilot, tonka, woodruff, deertongue, etc., but also as an individual note to be introduced whenever a truly herbaceous sweet under tone is required.
 

Scent Profile:

Foin Coupe is a fragrance that captures the essence of a sunlit meadow after the harvest, blending sweet and woodsy notes to create a sophisticated olfactory experience.

The top notes of Foin Coupe introduce a bright and invigorating scent profile. As you first encounter this fragrance, you are greeted by the sparkling citrus freshness of bergamot. It’s as if you’ve just walked into a lush garden, with the bergamot’s zesty aroma lifting your spirits. Intertwined with this is the delicate, slightly rosy fragrance of rose geranium, offering a subtle floral touch that is both calming and uplifting. Neroli adds a layer of sweet, citrusy depth, reminiscent of orange blossoms in full bloom, while lavender infuses the scent with its soothing, herbaceous quality, conjuring images of sun-drenched fields and tranquil relaxation.

As the fragrance evolves, the middle notes unfold, revealing a rich tapestry of herbal and floral elements. The scent of fresh herbs brings a green, slightly medicinal edge, evoking the aroma of an herb garden on a warm day. Moss rose introduces a gentle, velvety floral note, adding a touch of sophistication. Orris root, with its soft, powdery essence, creates a subtle, luxurious backdrop. The warm, spicy aroma of clove mingles with the sweet, green fragrance of sweet woodruff, reminiscent of freshly mown hay and grassy fields. Almond introduces a creamy, nutty nuance that enhances the fragrance’s overall sweetness, reminiscent of freshly cut hay mixed with a hint of nutty warmth.

The base notes of Foin Coupe anchor the fragrance with a complex, woodsy sweetness. Tonka bean delivers a rich, vanilla-like aroma with subtle hints of spice, adding depth and warmth. Musk provides a sensual, animalic undertone, while benzoin’s resinous sweetness creates a comforting, balsamic quality. Vanilla and styrax together evoke the richness of a warm, sunlit day, with a creamy, sweet aroma that lingers enticingly. Sandalwood offers a smooth, creamy woodiness, adding a touch of earthiness, while patchouli contributes a rich, musky depth. Oakmoss ties the composition together with its earthy, forest-like quality, evoking the scent of damp woodland and the natural richness of the earth.

Overall, Foin Coupe presents a harmonious blend of sweet, woodsy, and floral notes, creating a fragrance that is both inviting and complex, embodying the serene beauty of the countryside and the elegance of a well-crafted perfume.

Bottle:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

It was reformulated in 1896 to include the newly discovered synthetic essence coumarin. Discontinued, date unknown.  John Lloyd Clayton: "Not sure the exact date that it was discontinued, but it must have been available through the late 1940's, as Tennessee Williams mentions it (and Mouchoir de Monsieur) in a letter written to Carson McCullers in 1948. He mentions being in London but plans to pick bottles of each of those when he is "passing through Paris." You can find the reference on page 202 in the Selected Letters, vol. 2."

Secret Intention 2000

Secret Intention by Guerlain, launched as a limited edition for Valentine’s Day in 2000, was a fragrance that perfectly captured the mood of its era—one of quiet sensuality, emotional depth, and sophisticated allure. The phrase carries layers of meaning. “Secret” evokes something hidden, private, or intimate—something not meant for all eyes or ears—while “Intention” suggests purpose, desire, or the will to act. Together, the words form an alluring paradox: an unspoken desire, a thought concealed yet powerfully felt. It implies intimacy and mystery, the sort of quiet, knowing sensuality that does not announce itself but is unmistakably present. The title alone evokes images of dimly lit rooms, whispered promises, and fleeting glances that say more than words ever could.

When Guerlain released Secret Intention, the world was entering a new millennium—a period defined by optimism, technological innovation, and a renewed fascination with luxury and self-expression. In perfumery, the late 1990s and early 2000s were dominated by clean, sheer fragrances, transparent florals, and tea-based accords. The decade prior had been marked by the opulence and power of 1980s perfumes—think of bold, aldehydic florals and musky orientals—but by the turn of the century, women were gravitating toward subtler, more personal scents that felt modern and introspective. Minimalist design, sheer fabrics, and fresh, luminous beauty were the prevailing fashion ideals. This was the time of Gucci by Tom Ford, Calvin Klein’s Truth, and Bvlgari’s Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert—all emphasizing quiet sensuality rather than overt seduction.

Within this context, Secret Intention represented Guerlain’s interpretation of the modern woman—elegant, intelligent, and emotionally complex. The fragrance’s structure reflected this duality: a woody floral composition with an original tea and jasmine accord, enlivened by cardamom and coriander. The tea note, airy yet substantial, symbolized introspection and calm—a private moment of reflection. Jasmine, the eternal symbol of femininity and sensuality, added warmth and carnal depth, while the spices gave it a playful edge, a touch of unpredictability. Cardamom lent a silken coolness with its green, aromatic facets, while coriander introduced an almost peppery brightness that danced across the floral heart. Together, they created a perfume that felt both intimate and confident—modern femininity distilled.

For women of 2000, a perfume called Secret Intention would have felt like a whisper of empowerment. It spoke to the allure of the inner life—the idea that seduction did not require drama or bold display but could instead be quiet, deliberate, and deeply personal. The scent would have appealed to those who preferred subtle sophistication over ostentation, aligning perfectly with the understated glamour of the early 2000s.

In comparison to its contemporaries, Secret Intention both aligned with and elevated prevailing trends. Its transparency and tea-jasmine structure echoed the modern minimalism popularized by brands like Bvlgari and Kenzo, yet its Guerlain signature—refined balance, sensual warmth, and the subtle inclusion of spices—gave it greater emotional depth. While many fragrances of the time leaned toward the purely clean or aquatic, Secret Intention added intrigue and emotion. It was a fragrance of quiet power—not a loud declaration of love, but a soft confession only meant for one’s intended.

In essence, Guerlain’s Secret Intention was more than a perfume; it was a message wrapped in scent—a reflection of the private, nuanced ways women of the new millennium were learning to express their desires.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Secret Intention is classified as a floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: coriander, Ceylon tea, Calabrian bergamot, cardamom and lemon
• Middle notes: May peony, jasmine and neroli
• Base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean and vanilla

Scent Profile:

When first uncapped, Secret Intention releases an aura that feels both private and magnetic—like a quiet breath of confidence and desire. The opening is bright yet nuanced, where every note unfolds like a whispered thought. Calabrian bergamot comes first, sparkling and luminous. Harvested from the sun-warmed coast of Calabria in southern Italy, this bergamot is among the world’s finest, prized for its balance of sweetness and tartness. Its essential oil brims with linalyl acetate and limonene, molecules that lend the scent its citrusy lift and effervescent freshness. This natural radiance is subtly polished by synthetics that accentuate its sheen—giving it a clean, almost transparent glow, like sunlight refracted through crystal. Alongside it, lemon adds sharper clarity and an acidic gleam, its citral-rich essence slicing through the air like the first inhale of morning light.

Then, the perfume takes an unexpected turn—Ceylon tea, deep and serene, rises from beneath the citrus. Originating from the mist-covered highlands of Sri Lanka, this tea note carries earthy tannins, smoky dryness, and a quiet astringency that anchors the brightness above. Naturally rich in ionones and phenolic compounds, tea’s scent bridges the gap between freshness and warmth, offering a contemplative calm. Coriander seed follows, its warm, nutty undertone touched with citrus. It lends a silken spice—its linalool-rich aroma soft yet slightly woody, imparting both liveliness and sophistication. Interwoven with it, cardamom from India glimmers with a cool, aromatic sweetness. Containing cineole and terpinyl acetate, it contributes a delicate tension—an invigorating contrast between green brightness and sensual warmth. The effect of these spices is quietly seductive, like a faint pulse beneath a composed exterior, suggesting the hidden depth behind the perfume’s name.

As the top notes settle, May peony begins to bloom—a soft, rosy floral that feels freshly gathered from a spring garden. This flower, native to Europe and named for its ephemeral season, offers a tender, almost dewy scent that seems to hover just above the skin. It is supported by jasmine, the heart and soul of sensual femininity. Guerlain often favored jasmine from Grasse, prized for its creamy, indolic richness, but here it’s used more gently—its benzyl acetate and indole molecules balanced with transparency, evoking white petals kissed by morning light. Neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, adds a luminous green shimmer. Sourced from Tunisia or Calabria, its scent is uniquely bittersweet—rich in linalool and nerolidol, molecules that bring a honeyed softness with an edge of herbaceous zest. Together, these flowers form the emotional core of the perfume: elegant, modern, and quietly romantic.

The base of Secret Intention reveals the warmth that was only hinted at before. Sandalwood—most likely from Australia or India—emerges smooth and creamy, its santalols providing a soft, velvety texture that lingers like a second skin. This note gives the composition its emotional anchor: serenity, confidence, and depth. Then comes tonka bean, with its coumarin-rich aroma of almond and hay. This natural compound softens the edges, blending the florals and woods into a warm, caressing sweetness. Finally, vanilla unfurls—a Guerlain signature. Derived from Madagascar pods rich in vanillin and heliotropin, it envelops the fragrance with a tender sensuality, deepened by modern synthetics that amplify its creamy warmth without heaviness.

Together, these ingredients tell a story in scent: a dance between light and shadow, candor and mystery. The brightness of citrus and spice recalls the outward composure of a confident woman, while the tea, flowers, and creamy woods beneath reveal her inner warmth and intention—unspoken yet deeply felt. Secret Intention lives up to its name: it is not a fragrance that declares itself, but one that invites discovery, lingering like a secret shared between two hearts.

Bottle:

 It was presented in a clear rounded bottle accented with gold-tone “claws,” holding 1 oz of Eau de Toilette. 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.