Nice, Dear c1893

Nice, Dear by Guerlain, launched in 1893, is a fragrance imbued with historical significance and refined symbolism. Guerlain chose the name Nice, Dear as a tribute both to Great Britain and to Queen Victoria, while also honoring the Greek goddess Nike—the Winged Goddess of Victory, whose Roman equivalent was Victoria. The name is pronounced “niece, deer” and evokes images of triumph, grace, and elegance. The fragrance conjures emotions of regal poise and refined femininity, as though capturing the serene dignity of a queen or the ethereal motion of a goddess gliding through a sunlit garden.

The inspiration for the scent came from a lush garden of white flowers, dominated by roses and jasmine. Imagine inhaling the soft, creamy sweetness of freshly bloomed roses, their petals releasing geraniol and citronellol, mingling with the narcotic, honeyed richness of jasmine, accented by jasmone, which lends a soft, powdery depth. Together, these florals create a luminous, airy bouquet. Subtle use of synthetic aroma chemicals would have enhanced the natural brightness and longevity of these ingredients, allowing the delicate garden essence to persist elegantly on the skin.

The perfume was launched at a time when Europe was immersed in the late Victorian era, a period marked by ceremony, structure, and cultural refinement. Fashion emphasized high collars, intricate lace, and elegant gowns, reflecting societal ideals of propriety and sophistication. In the same year, the new portrait of Queen Victoria, known as the “Old Head” or “Veiled Head,” appeared on British coinage, symbolizing the enduring dignity of the monarchy. Women of the period would have related to Nice, Dear as a fragrance that embodied both cultural prestige and personal refinement—a scented emblem of elegance and victory.

In the context of other perfumes on the market, Nice, Dear aligns with the widespread popularity of floral bouquets at the time, yet it stands out for its clarity, balance, and Guerlain’s characteristic craftsmanship. The combination of white florals, gentle powdery nuances, and subtle enhancements rendered it a fragrance both timeless and distinguished—a fragrant celebration of femininity, triumph, and historical homage.

Town topics, the journal of society - Volume 29 - Page 32, c1893:

"My dear Lena, you asked me to see about some small articles de toilette. So I went to Guerlain's and this is what he suggests for you.... A new perfume called 'Nice Dear' I thought irresistible. France we adopt a perfume and stick to it. One's scent is part of one's self l am sure you will like 'Nice Dear', to wish not to change again."

Wiener Mode: offizielles Organ des Hauses der Mode, 1893:

"From another source in Paris we are informed that washing with La Rubialine by Guerlain refreshes the complexion, especially if you use it every day. La Rubialine is not a make-up that works instantly but an excellent toiletry product that, when used regularly, preserves and beautifies the complexion. Le Nice Dear, an excellent handkerchief perfume also produced by Guerlain 15 rue de la Paix, has a refreshingly pleasant and long-lasting effect."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Nice, Dear is classified as a soft floral oriental fragrance. The inspiration was a garden full of white flowers, roses and jasmine.

• Top notes: neroli, orange blossom, apricot, jasmine, lemon, bergamot, cassie, rose tincture 
• Middle notes: methyl anthranilate, lavender, rose otto, honey, gardenia, jasmine, indol, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, orris, rosewood, patchouli
• Base notes: blond tobacco, jasmine, civet, oakmoss, leather, vetiver, ambergris, balsam, sandalwood, vanilla, storax and Tonkin musk

Scent Profile:

Nice, Dear by Guerlain, launched in 1893, is a soft floral oriental fragrance that evokes a serene, sun-dappled garden in full bloom. The top notes open with a bright, radiant neroli—the distilled essence of bitter orange blossoms from Tunisia—its crisp, green-floral aroma enhanced by subtle linalool, lending freshness and a sparkling vibrancy. Orange blossom deepens the citrus-floral profile with its slightly honeyed warmth, while apricot introduces a soft, juicy fruitiness that perfectly balances the citrus. 

The jasmine note contributes its creamy, narcotic sweetness, with benzyl acetate and jasmone naturally present, enriching the perfume with its signature floral elegance. Lemon and bergamot, each from their Mediterranean origins, add zesty brightness: bergamot’s light bitterness and lemon’s crisp tang create an invigorating opening that feels fresh yet rounded. Cassie (acacia) lends powdery, slightly green nuances, and rose tincture infuses the top with a delicate warmth, its natural citronellol and geraniol contributing a soft, velvety elegance.

The heart of the fragrance unfolds like a lush, sunlit garden. Methyl anthranilate, a naturally occurring aromatic in jasmine and orange blossom, gives a sweet, grape-like facet that lifts the florals. Lavender introduces aromatic clarity with its camphoraceous edge, while rose otto imparts a deep, sensual floral richness, accentuated by phenylethyl alcohol, which enhances its natural warmth. Honey adds a subtle gourmand sweetness, mingling with the creamy, green facets of gardenia. Indol, present naturally in jasmine and tuberose, deepens the scent with a soft, animalic warmth. Ylang ylang brings a rich, tropical floral note, while lily of the valley and orris root provide powdery, ethereal textures. Rosewood contributes aromatic, slightly camphoraceous nuances, and patchouli adds an earthy, grounding depth, providing structure to the bouquet.

The base notes transform the fragrance into a soft oriental trail, rich and enduring. Blond tobacco introduces a subtle warmth and smokiness, perfectly complemented by the creamy jasmine lingering from the heart. Civet, whether natural or synthetically recreated, adds an animalic, sensual depth that highlights the florals. Oakmoss imparts a forest-like green resonance, while leather adds richness and sophistication. Vetiver offers dry, earthy complexity, its naturally occurring vetiverol enhancing the composition’s elegance. Ambergris lends a luminous, marine-like warmth, while balsam and sandalwood introduce resinous and creamy woodiness. Vanilla adds gourmand sweetness, harmonizing with storax’s balsamic nuance, and Tonkin musk provides a soft, powdery, lingering sensuality. Together, these base notes anchor the perfume in a luxurious oriental warmth, blending seamlessly with the luminous florals to create a scent that is timeless, sophisticated, and evocative of an elegant garden at the height of bloom.

This fragrance captures Guerlain’s signature artistry: a sophisticated layering of delicate, exotic, and opulent notes that balance freshness, floral richness, and oriental warmth. The combination of carefully sourced natural ingredients, alongside subtle synthetics that enhance longevity and brightness, ensures that each inhalation feels both fresh and infinitely refined, a tribute to elegance and historical craftsmanship.

Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Voila Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine 1900

Voilà Pourquoi J’Aimais Rosine, created by Guerlain in 1863 and reintroduced in 1900 for the Exposition Universelle in Paris, stands as one of the earliest examples of fragrance used not merely as adornment, but as personal narrative — a poetic expression of admiration and devotion. Its title, in French, translates to “That’s Why I Loved Rosine” (pronounced vwah-lah poor-kwah zhém roh-zeen), a phrase that reads like the wistful opening line of a love letter. It is both intimate and theatrical, fittingly dedicated to Sarah Bernhardt, the celebrated actress of the Belle Époque whose birth name was Henriette-Rosine Bernard. Bernhardt, muse and friend to the Guerlain family, embodied the era’s fascination with beauty, passion, and art — qualities that Guerlain captured in this perfume’s name and composition.

The phrase itself, Voilà Pourquoi J’Aimais Rosine, evokes a flood of images: the tender melancholy of lost affection, the golden glow of gaslight on a stage, the rustle of satin gowns, and the soft trail of powder and violet that follows a woman as she leaves a theatre box. The name feels nostalgic and confessional, as if the fragrance itself were an act of remembrance — a bottled sigh of longing. To the women of 1900, it would have suggested romance, refinement, and emotional candor, qualities deeply admired in an age that celebrated sentiment and artifice in equal measure.

When Guerlain reissued the perfume at the dawn of the twentieth century, Paris stood at the height of the Belle Époque — a period of optimism, cultural splendor, and technological progress. The 1900 Exposition Universelle marked France’s confidence as a leader in luxury and innovation. In fashion, the Gibson Girl silhouette reigned — corseted waists, high lace collars, and voluminous skirts — and the modern woman was beginning to emerge: independent, worldly, and expressive. Perfumery, too, was undergoing a transformation. The rise of synthetic aroma materials, particularly the early musks, ionones, and coumarin, allowed perfumers to craft more complex and abstract compositions. Guerlain’s reimagining of Voilà Pourquoi J’Aimais Rosine reflected this shift — an emotional, rather than merely floral, fragrance, designed to express sophistication and introspection rather than simple prettiness.

To smell Voilà Pourquoi J’Aimais Rosine is to experience a powdery floral heart veiled in soft leather and chypre shadows — a style that would not become widespread until decades later, making it remarkably ahead of its time. The flowers, dominated by jasmine, violet, rose, and iris, suggest the refined femininity of 19th-century perfumery, while the leathery and mossy base foreshadows the sensuality of early 20th-century chypres. This juxtaposition — delicate powder against supple hide — would have felt both romantic and daring, much like Sarah Bernhardt herself.

In the context of its era, Voilà Pourquoi J’Aimais Rosine was a bridge between tradition and modernity, between Victorian grace and Art Nouveau sensuality. While many fragrances of the late 19th century focused on single florals — violets, roses, or heliotropes — Guerlain’s composition carried emotional depth and texture. It was not merely a floral perfume; it was an evocation of memory and artistry, capturing the essence of a muse whose presence lingered long after she had left the stage.

For the women who wore it, Voilà Pourquoi J’Aimais Rosine would have been more than a scent — it was a statement of refined sentiment and individuality, a fragrance that whispered of intellect, artistry, and the tender complexities of love. It was, quite literally, the perfume of a story — and Guerlain ensured that the story, like its name, would endure.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Voila Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine is classified as a powdery floral fragrance for women with a leathery chypre base.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, lavender, leather
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, violet, vanilla, cinnamon, marjoram, patchouli
• Base notes: leather, rose, oakmoss, orris

Scent Profile:

As I inhale Voilà Pourquoi J’Aimais Rosine, I’m immediately transported to the romantic salons of Belle Époque Paris—a place where light filters through lace curtains, where the air itself seems powdered with mystery. The opening greets me with a citrus-lavender accord, bright yet restrained. The bergamot shimmers first, Italian in origin, its zest releasing sparkling aldehydes and linalyl acetate—molecules that lend both brightness and elegance. It’s not sharp but rather soft and sunlit, like a silken scarf catching morning air. 

Lemon joins in, its effervescence sharper, more crystalline, awakening the senses and setting the stage for what feels like a dance between freshness and nostalgia. Threaded through this brightness is lavender, aromatic and slightly camphorous, its floral-herbal duality softening the acidity of the citrus. French lavender is the most prized—grown in Provence, its cool clarity and balanced coumarin tone give the perfume an air of refinement. Then, from the shadows, leather rises—not raw or smoky, but supple, polished, like the inside of a finely crafted glove. It adds a tactile depth, grounding the airy top notes in something human and sensual, hinting already at the chypre character beneath.

The heart of Voilà Pourquoi J’Aimais Rosine blooms with flowers both tender and decadent, yet each petal seems powdered with memory. Jasmine unfolds first—lush, narcotic, with that unmistakable hint of indole that suggests both night air and warm skin. Likely derived from the grandiflorum variety cultivated in Grasse, its richness is tempered by the sweetness of rose, a nod to Guerlain’s enduring love for this queen of flowers. The rose feels velvety, perhaps an infusion of Bulgarian damask, with its high content of citronellol and geraniol lending both dewy freshness and a soft, honeyed undertone. Violet threads through these richer blooms, giving a powdery, nostalgic texture; its ionones—synthetic molecules discovered only decades before—recreate the scent of fresh violet petals, their tender sweetness evoking pressed sachets and silk-lined boudoirs.

As the floral bouquet deepens, unexpected notes surface: vanilla, cinnamon, and marjoram. The vanilla softens everything with a golden warmth, its vanillin molecules smoothing the sharper edges of the spices and tying the composition together with quiet sensuality. The cinnamon, likely Ceylon, brings a red warmth, sweet yet woody, its cinnamaldehyde lending a glow of intimate luxury—more salon than spice market. Marjoram adds a whisper of green warmth, herbal and slightly resinous, its terpenes enhancing the aromatic thread first introduced by lavender. Beneath it all, patchouli hums—a dark, earthy counterpoint that hints at the perfume’s future chypre heart.

As the fragrance settles, its base is both tender and enduring—a blend of leather, rose, oakmoss, and orris that speaks of both sensuality and sophistication. The leather deepens, now rich and shadowed, perhaps tinged with birch tar, which gives it a slightly smoky, vintage tone. Oakmoss, a defining material in early chypres, adds its cool, forest-like dampness—evergreen and mineral, with traces of coumarin and treemoss aldehydes that seem to bind the entire composition to the earth. It is this mossy depth that gives the perfume its gravitas, its whisper of mystery. Orris, the precious root of the Florentine iris, lends the finishing touch—a powdered, buttery smoothness born from its irone molecules. This note, rare and costly, adds a texture like vintage face powder, elegantly soft yet faintly melancholic, wrapping the wearer in a haze of quiet grace.

Smelled as a whole, Voilà Pourquoi J’Aimais Rosine feels like a memory suspended in time—a tender balance of light and shadow, youth and introspection. The interplay of powdered florals, gentle spice, and chypre leather creates the impression of refined sensuality, as though the perfume itself remembers a love story once lived. It’s both a fragrance and a reverie, an olfactory sonnet written in Guerlain’s unmistakable hand: luminous, romantic, and eternally poised between dream and desire.

Bottles:

Presented in the Fleuri flacon (parfum), created in 1900 by Pochet et du Courval. The bottle represents a flower vase topped with faux begonias.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Le Bolshoi Saison 2012 La Traviata

Le Bolshoi Saison 2012 La Traviata was launched in 2012 as a limited edition to commemorate the premiere of the Bolshoi Theatre’s 237th season in Moscow, featuring Giuseppe Verdi’s celebrated opera La Traviata. Guerlain chose this name to honor the enduring partnership between the historic perfume house and the Bolshoi Theatre, as well as to celebrate Guerlain’s role in supporting the theater’s restoration. The name itself is French and Italian, pronounced as “Le Bol-shwah Say-zon Deux Mille Douze La Trah-vee-ah-tah.” It evokes images of grand velvet curtains, glittering chandeliers, and the elegance and drama of a world-class opera. The fragrance conjures the excitement of a premiere night—the anticipation, the refined glamour, and the delicate balance between art and passion.

Launched in the early 2010s, a period marked by luxury perfumeries exploring heritage, storytelling, and limited editions, Le Bolshoi Saison 2012 La Traviata reflects Guerlain’s commitment to combining artistry with history. Women of the period, particularly those familiar with travel retail exclusives or high-end perfumery, would have related to this fragrance as a collectible statement of sophistication and cultural refinement. The name suggests theatricality and romance, an interpretation mirrored in the scent itself: floral notes evoking opulent bouquets laid at the feet of the performers, woody nuances reminiscent of polished stage floors, and musky warmth conjuring the intimacy of a private box in the theater.

Created by Jean-Paul Guerlain, the perfume is classified as a floral woody musk fragrance for women. As a recreation of Les Secrets de Sophie (2009), it situates itself in the tradition of Guerlain’s signature elegance while interpreting contemporary trends in perfumery—balancing classic composition with accessibility and modern sensibilities. Among other market offerings at the time, it stood out due to its cultural narrative, limited availability, and the prestige associated with the Bolshoi collaboration, making it both a collector’s item and a wearable homage to one of the world’s most iconic operatic institutions.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Le Bolshoi Saison 2012 La Traviata is classified as a floral woody musk fragrance for women. 

• Top notes:  bergamot, petitgrain, bitter orange and neroli
• Middle notes: jasmine, violet, ylang-ylang and orange blossom
• Base notes: vanilla, tonka bean, incense and white musk

Scent Profile:

Le Bolshoi Saison 2012 La Traviata opens with a radiant citrus symphony that immediately lifts the senses. The bergamot, sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, is bright and sparkling, its natural limonene contributing a crisp, slightly bitter freshness that awakens the skin. Layered alongside is the bitter orange, whose essential oil from Spain brings a deeper, slightly more resinous facet, enriched with natural linalool and myrcene, which add a soft floral undertone to the vibrant opening. Petitgrain from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree introduces a green, slightly woody brightness, while neroli—delicately harvested from Tunisian blossoms—adds a subtle honeyed, floral sweetness, giving the top notes a luminous and effervescent quality. Together, these notes evoke a crisp spring morning in a Mediterranean orchard, simultaneously refreshing and elegant.

At the heart, the composition unfolds into a floral bouquet of remarkable depth. Jasmine, likely from the highly prized Grasse region in France, exudes its velvety, indolic richness, with natural jasmone contributing warmth and sensuality. Violet petals lend a soft powdery nuance, their ionone molecules enhancing the airy, romantic character of the heart. Orange blossom reinforces the sweet, creamy facets of the fragrance, bridging the citrus top notes to the floral core. Ylang-ylang, sourced from the Comoros or Madagascar, provides a tropical richness, with its high concentration of linalool and benzyl acetate offering both floral opulence and a slightly exotic creaminess. These middle notes harmonize to evoke the grandeur of a theater box filled with fresh bouquets awaiting the opening curtain—a tribute to the elegance and drama of Verdi’s La Traviata.

The base notes ground the perfume with warmth and longevity. Musk, whether natural or enhanced with synthetic substitutes, adds a soft, animalic warmth that caresses the skin, enhancing the floral heart without overpowering it. Tonka bean, likely from Venezuela or Brazil, imparts a sweet, slightly spicy vanilla-like aroma thanks to its natural coumarin content, blending beautifully with the warm, creamy Bourbon vanilla to create a gourmand, comforting trail. Sandalwood and incense bring a smoky, resinous depth, with sandalwood from Mysore prized for its smooth, creamy, and long-lasting santalol-rich aroma, while the incense adds a subtle, spiritual lift reminiscent of candlelit opera halls. Together, these base notes anchor the composition, leaving a lingering sillage that is simultaneously elegant, intimate, and theatrical—an olfactory homage to the historic grandeur of the Bolshoi Theatre.

In its entirety, Le Bolshoi Saison 2012 La Traviata is a sophisticated interplay of citrus brightness, opulent florals, and warm, resinous woods and musks. The natural ingredients provide richness and authenticity, while synthetics subtly enhance radiance, longevity, and the clarity of each note, making this fragrance both modern in performance and timeless in its evocative storytelling.

Bottle:

Le Bolshoi Saison 2012 La Traviata by Guerlain was available in 60ml versions of Eau De Parfum concentration exclusively in Moscow from September 2012. A limited number of 655 pieces was available with a price of 685 USD. There was also a limited number available for sale at the Champs-Élysées boutique.

 

Precious Heart c2004

Precious Heart by Guerlain was launched in 2004 as part of the brand’s then-new series of travel retail exclusives — fragrances designed to capture emotions associated with distance, affection, and longing. It followed With Love (2003), Guerlain’s first fragrance in the collection, both united by the universal theme of romance and connection across distance. The concept was elegant and heartfelt: to offer travelers a tangible reminder of the loved ones they were separated from, a perfume that could serve as both a gift and a token of remembrance. Guerlain’s creative team envisioned these scents as emotional keepsakes — fragrant messages of love, expressed through the house’s refined French artistry.

The name “Precious Heart” is tender and evocative, chosen for its universal emotional resonance. The word “precious” conveys something cherished, rare, and irreplaceable — an object or feeling held close to the soul. “Heart” represents emotion, sincerity, and the core of affection. Together, Precious Heart suggests the essence of love treasured deeply — the vulnerability and warmth that define human connection. The imagery it evokes is one of intimacy and sentiment: a small token kept in a locket, a letter carried across miles, or a quiet moment of remembrance. It reflects Guerlain’s poetic sensibility, translating emotion into perfume — something invisible yet profoundly felt.

The year 2004 marked a time of both modern elegance and nostalgia in the world of fashion and perfumery. The early 2000s were characterized by a return to femininity after the minimalist, sharp-edged trends of the 1990s. In fashion, soft silhouettes, romantic florals, and a touch of vintage glamour were reemerging — from chiffon dresses to delicate pastels. In perfumery, this period saw a growing fascination with transparent floral compositions and “clean” musks, yet niche houses were beginning to reintroduce richer, more emotional perfumes reminiscent of earlier eras. Consumers sought fragrances that felt personal and expressive, moving away from overly synthetic blends toward scents that told a story or captured a mood.

For women of the time, a perfume called Precious Heart would have felt reassuringly sincere — romantic but not extravagant, emotional yet refined. It appealed to the sentimentality of travel and the cherished bonds between loved ones, whether romantic or familial. The name’s gentleness echoed the cultural mood of the early 2000s: a time of reconnection, introspection, and renewed appreciation for small luxuries.

Created by Frank Voelkl, Precious Heart was classified as a green floral fragrance, a category known for its freshness and understated elegance. In the context of early-2000s perfumery, where gourmand and fruity florals such as J’Adore, Coco Mademoiselle, and Flowerbomb dominated the mainstream, Guerlain’s choice to release a green floral stood apart. It offered a subtler, more contemplative experience — a scent less about opulence and more about tenderness. Voelkl’s interpretation of Precious Heart likely captured that contrast beautifully: the verdant crispness of green notes symbolizing freshness and renewal, intertwined with soft florals representing love and affection.

In essence, Precious Heart was not merely a fragrance — it was a message in scent, designed for travelers and dreamers alike. Through its name, design, and delicate green floral composition, it expressed the quiet poetry of connection — a fragrant reminder that love, in all its forms, endures across distance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Precious Heart is classified as a green floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: grapefruit, lemon verbena
• Middle notes: magnolia, freesia, osmanthus, cardamom
• Base notes: sandalwood, musk, cedar

Scent Profile:

At first breath, Precious Heart opens like a radiant morning — crisp, luminous, and quietly full of promise. The grapefruit strikes first: bright, juicy, and tinged with a subtle bitterness that dances between sweet sunlight and shadow. Its sparkling zestiness is owed to nootkatone and limonene, natural aroma molecules that give grapefruit its effervescent lift. To preserve this vivid freshness, perfumers often enhance it with synthetic citral, extending the natural fruit’s brilliance far beyond its fleeting life on skin. Beneath that citrus light, lemon verbena unfolds — its leaves, native to the Mediterranean, release an aromatic green note that feels both lemony and herbaceous. The verbenone within gives it that distinct sharp-green sparkle, while the soft floral undertone rounds out the grapefruit’s acidity. Together, these two top notes shimmer like sunlight filtering through new leaves, immediately evoking the purity and optimism that the name Precious Heart implies.

As the fragrance begins to settle, a soft floral heart emerges — feminine, yet not fragile. Magnolia, with its creamy, citrus-tinted petals, lends a refined elegance; its natural linalool and eugenol molecules impart a subtle spiciness that feels warm and living, almost like skin kissed by sun. Freesia adds a dew-drenched clarity, with its peppery-green facets and gentle sweetness enhanced by the synthetic molecule lilial, often used to mimic its translucent bloom. The addition of osmanthus introduces a tender complexity — the apricot-like sweetness of this tiny golden blossom from China carries hints of suede and honey, rich in ionones and lactones that create its dual nature of fruit and leather. Finally, cardamom breathes warmth into the bouquet, its cool spice and faint eucalyptus freshness (thanks to 1,8-cineole and terpinyl acetate) giving the heart a vibrant rhythm — a reminder that love, too, has both softness and pulse.

The base of Precious Heart is serene, grounded, and comforting, like the lasting warmth of affection. Sandalwood, sourced from Mysore, India — prized for its creamy, milky depth — diffuses a smooth, almost tactile richness. Its main molecule, santalol, provides a velvety woodiness that perfectly cradles the airy top and floral heart. Cedarwood, drier and more linear, adds structure, its cedrol content lending a clean, silken edge that keeps the composition from becoming overly sweet. Finally, musk wraps everything in a soft, radiant embrace — a blend of natural and synthetic musks like galaxolide and muscenone, which extend the scent’s longevity and create an almost tactile aura, a whisper of skin.

Altogether, Precious Heart feels like an intimate confession — fresh as morning air, tender as a petal, and warm as an embrace. Its green floral composition captures the essence of love in motion: youthful, sincere, and luminous, suspended between innocence and sensuality.

Bottle:

Precious Heart was presented in a flacon that perfectly embodied its romantic theme — a pink and red-colored modified Bouchon Cœur bottle, whose very shape and design language spoke of love and intimacy. The classic Bouchon Cœur, known for its inverted heart-shaped stopper, has long been one of Guerlain’s most poetic and feminine designs, originally symbolizing the idea of offering one’s heart. In Precious Heart, this design was reimagined with a modern sensibility: the glass shimmered in delicate tones of rose and crimson, echoing both tenderness and passion. The interplay of pink and red created a visual metaphor for the fragrance itself — a harmony of soft emotion and vivid energy. Subtly embossed with a heart motif and adorned with the fragrance name, the bottle felt at once youthful and timeless, an affectionate nod to Guerlain’s romantic heritage.

At launch, Precious Heart was available as a 50 ml eau de toilette spray, priced at €30, making it an accessible expression of Guerlain’s artistry for travelers seeking something both luxurious and sentimental. In addition, a men’s and women’s duo edition was offered at €69, designed to celebrate shared affection — two complementary bottles intended as a fragrant pairing for couples. This presentation reinforced the perfume’s central message: that love, in all its forms, is both precious and reciprocal. Together, the thoughtful packaging, heart-inspired design, and accessible pricing made Precious Heart not merely a perfume, but a keepsake — a tangible expression of tenderness meant to be given, worn, and remembered.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Likely discontinued around 2006.

Plus Que Jamais c2005

Plus Que Jamais by Guerlain was launched in 2005 as a tribute to the reopening of the Maison Guerlain boutique on the Champs-Élysées — the very heart of Parisian luxury and the spiritual home of the brand. Jean-Paul Guerlain, the last in the family line of master perfumers, composed the fragrance as both a personal statement and a celebration of Guerlain’s creative legacy. The name, Plus Que Jamais — French for “More Than Ever” (pronounced "ploo keh zhah-meh") — captures a sense of renewal and enduring excellence. It evokes the feeling that Guerlain, even after nearly two centuries, was still capable of surpassing itself — more elegant, more refined, and more alive than ever. The name suggests devotion, passion, and persistence — a phrase that resonates as both a declaration of love and an affirmation of identity.

The imagery surrounding Plus Que Jamais is rich with emotion. The words conjure an image of Paris at dusk — the gilded light reflecting off the façades of the Champs-Élysées, the scent of warm amber and powdery florals drifting through the evening air. It is a name that speaks of eternal sophistication and romantic confidence, the kind that only comes from a house with such storied heritage. The fragrance invites one to embrace the present moment with intensity — to love, to live, and to feel “more than ever.”

The mid-2000s marked a transitional period in perfumery — a time when houses were beginning to rediscover craftsmanship and exclusivity after a decade of mass-market releases. The niche fragrance movement was rising, and historic brands like Guerlain sought to reaffirm their artisanal roots. Plus Que Jamais emerged in this context as both a statement of continuity and a counterpoint to the minimalist trends dominating the early 2000s. While clean musks, ozonic florals, and gourmand notes were popular, Guerlain leaned back into its tradition — rich oriental accords, opulent florals, and the unmistakable Guerlinade base that defined its classics.

For women of the time, Plus Que Jamais embodied timeless Parisian femininity. It wasn’t merely a scent; it was an attitude — confident yet graceful, sophisticated yet emotional. It would have appealed to women who admired tradition but desired a modern expression of it, those who found allure in craftsmanship and the quiet power of legacy. In scent, the phrase Plus Que Jamais would be interpreted as layers of sensual warmth and depth — floral heart notes wrapped in ambered sweetness, underscored by Guerlain’s signature vanilla and tonka bean.

In the context of its era, Plus Que Jamais stood apart. It was not chasing contemporary trends but rather reaffirming the artistry of French perfumery. It was classic Guerlain — unapologetically luxurious, deeply emotive, and rooted in the brand’s history, yet still resonating “more than ever” with the spirit of modern elegance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Plus Que Jamais is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot and Tunisian neroli
• Middle notes: Comoros ylang ylang , jasmine, rose and iris
• Base notes: Bourbon vanilla, ambergris, vetiver and precious woods

 

Scent Profile:

Plus Que Jamais opens like the first inhale of morning light over Paris — radiant, effervescent, and alive. The first impression shimmers with aldehydes, those airy molecules that give a champagne-like sparkle to the composition. They lend a crisp, almost metallic brightness, magnifying the citrus accord that follows. From southern Italy comes Calabrian bergamot, prized for its uniquely nuanced aroma — more floral and rounded than the sharper bergamots from other regions. Its natural compounds, such as linalyl acetate and limonene, produce a soft, luminous freshness that feels simultaneously sunny and sophisticated. Intertwined with it is Tunisian neroli, distilled from the delicate blossoms of the bitter orange tree. Neroli from Tunisia is known for its luminous purity and honeyed undertone, richer and warmer than its Moroccan or Egyptian cousins. Together, these notes form a radiant halo — a breath of dawn before the heart of the fragrance unfolds.

As the aldehydic brightness settles, the floral heart of Plus Que Jamais unfurls like silk. The perfume’s sensual core is built around ylang-ylang from the Comoros, whose golden petals exude an opulent, creamy sweetness. Ylang-ylang is rich in benzyl acetate and p-cresyl methyl ether — molecules that contribute to its narcotic, almost tropical warmth. In this blend, it feels like liquid gold, melting into jasmine, likely of the grandiflorum variety, offering a narcotic bloom of indolic sensuality. Its indoles, the natural compounds that give jasmine its deep, animalic undertone, create a human warmth beneath the floral brightness. Rose, likely a blend of Bulgarian and Turkish varieties, introduces a velvety richness; its citronellol and phenylethyl alcohol contribute a natural freshness tinged with dew. Iris, derived from aged orris rhizomes, adds the powdery texture that Guerlain has long been known for — buttery, cool, and slightly earthy, creating a tactile softness that lingers like the scent of fine face powder and silk gloves.

The base of Plus Que Jamais reveals itself slowly, like embers glowing in the evening. Bourbon vanilla from Madagascar — rich in vanillin and coumarin — gives the perfume a voluptuous sweetness, warm but never cloying. Its depth is balanced by ambergris, that rare marine treasure formed in the sea and aged by time. Ambergris lends a soft, animalic warmth and a diffusive radiance that no synthetic can perfectly mimic, though modern perfumery often enhances it with ambroxide to replicate its velvety projection. Vetiver, likely from Haiti, brings an earthy, woody dryness — its vetiverol and khusimol molecules grounding the sweetness with green, rooty strength. The precious woods — a Guerlain signature — wrap the entire composition in refinement, likely a blend of sandalwood and cedar that provides a creamy, resinous structure.

As the scent evolves, Plus Que Jamais moves from bright aldehydic radiance to floral opulence, and finally to a golden, ambery softness. The natural ingredients and their synthetic counterparts intertwine seamlessly — the aldehydes amplifying the citrus, the synthetics supporting the florals, and the resins deepening the base — to create a perfume that feels both timeless and modern. It is at once luminous and sensual, elegant yet intimate — a love letter to the house of Guerlain itself, composed “more than ever” with mastery, warmth, and devotion.

Bottles:

The prestige edition of Plus Que Jamais was presented in one of Guerlain’s most breathtaking luxury formats — a 500 ml quadrilobe flacon, masterfully crafted from Baccarat crystal. This bottle, with its elegant symmetry and timeless form, pays homage to the storied heritage of Guerlain’s perfume artistry, echoing the same silhouette that has housed many of the house’s most iconic creations since 1908. The crystal itself captures and refracts light with exquisite clarity, allowing the golden amber perfume within to shimmer like captured sunlight. Each flacon was sealed with silk in the traditional manner, a gesture that recalls the house’s 19th-century packaging rituals. An ivory-toned label, refined and understated, graces the front, while the neck is adorned with a necklace of baroque pearls — a detail symbolic of timeless femininity and grace. This limited edition, retailing for $2,600, came as a collector’s set: a 7.5 ml refillable bottle for personal use and a 490 ml refill flacon of parfum, a testament to Guerlain’s blend of opulence and practicality, crafted for the true devotee.

For admirers seeking a more accessible expression, Guerlain released an eau de parfum version housed in a 60 ml flacon fitted with an atomizer. This version retained the refined aesthetics and craftsmanship associated with the house, presented at a more attainable level. Priced at $400, the set included a 7.5 ml refillable bottle of eau de parfum accompanied by a 50 ml refill, combining luxury with thoughtful convenience. Only 1,955 pieces of this edition were produced worldwide, a subtle nod to Guerlain’s founding year, 1828, and its long tradition of limited, artful releases that speak to collectors’ hearts.

Eventually, Plus Que Jamais found a more permanent home within Les Parisiennes, Guerlain’s exclusive collection that reimagines the house’s most beloved fragrances. In this incarnation, it was offered as a 125 ml Eau de Parfum, presented in the elegant, ribbed “bee bottle” — a tribute to the emblem of Napoleon III, which Guerlain first adopted in 1853. Retailing for $318, this version made Plus Que Jamais accessible once more to those seeking to wear a piece of Guerlain’s modern legacy — a fragrance that bridges the house’s storied past and its ever-evolving artistry.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued as of 2009.

Syringa du Japon 1870

Syringa du Japon by Guerlain was introduced in 1870, a creation by Aimé Guerlain that beautifully captures the romantic spirit of the late 19th century. The name “Syringa du Japon” is French, pronounced “See-ran-ga doo Zha-pon,” and translates to “Lilac of Japan.” The term Syringa refers to the Japanese tree lilac (Syringa reticulata)—a species admired for its clusters of creamy white flowers and their softly sweet, almond-vanilla scent. The addition of du Japon not only situates the flower’s origin but also evokes the fascination with Japanese art, nature, and aesthetics that swept through Europe during this time.

The name itself conjures images of tranquil oriental gardens, white lilacs shimmering under dappled sunlight, and the refined serenity associated with Japanese design. For a Parisian woman of the 1870s, the phrase Syringa du Japon would have felt exotic and sophisticated—a breath of floral opulence filtered through the mystique of the East. It would have suggested both refinement and escape, a fragrant portal to lands newly opened to European imagination after Japan’s emergence from centuries of isolation.

The year 1870 was a turbulent and transformative time. France was on the brink of the Franco-Prussian War, and within a year, the Second Empire had fallen, giving rise to the Third Republic. Yet, amid social unrest, fashion and culture continued to evolve. Women’s dress was opulent—corseted silhouettes with layers of silk, lace, and crinoline—yet there was an emerging desire for lighter, more personal forms of luxury. Perfumery, too, was entering a period of innovation: Aimé Guerlain was among the first to blend natural essences with synthetic aroma molecules, creating more complex and long-lasting compositions.

In this context, Syringa du Japon represented both tradition and progress. The scent—classified today as a floral oriental (floral amber)—blended sweet, creamy florals with warm, resinous undertones of amber, musk, and wood. The floral heart likely featured notes reminiscent of lilac, jasmine, heliotrope, and perhaps orange blossom, capturing the powdery, sun-warmed scent of Japanese tree lilac. The oriental base added a sensual, lasting warmth—an early expression of the Guerlain signature that would later define masterpieces such as Jicky (1889) and Shalimar (1925).

For women of the era, a perfume named Syringa du Japon would have felt like a fragrant jewel of refinement, aligning with the growing Parisian fascination for Japonisme—the art and design movement that celebrated Japanese motifs, fabrics, and aesthetics. The scent would have symbolized grace, poise, and a cosmopolitan curiosity—a whisper of faraway lands distilled into something intimate and wearable.

In the landscape of its time, Syringa du Japon was forward-looking. While many perfumes of the mid-19th century remained simple soliflores—single-note floral waters—Guerlain’s creation displayed a more sophisticated architecture, one that foreshadowed the modern structure of perfumery. It wasn’t merely a lilac fragrance; it was an evocation, a sensory interpretation of the East filtered through French romanticism—a delicate harmony of purity, sensuality, and travel captured in scent.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental (floral amber) fragrance — with a sweet, creamy, and slightly spicy floral heart resting on a warm, resinous, and musky base.

• Top notes: sweet orange, Portuguese orange, lemon, neroli, citral, green notes, acacia, mock orange, methyl anthranilate, honeysuckle, methyl acetophenone
• Middle notes: orange blossom, hydroxycitronellal, anisic aldehyde, reseda, rose, magnolia, jasmine, indole, lilac, heliotropin, cinnamic alcohol, isoeugenol, ylang ylang, alpha ionone
• Base notes: sandalwood, rosewood, pepper, patchouli, tonka bean, vanilla, musk, opoponax

Scent Profile:

Syringa du Japon (1870) – Created by Aimé Guerlain is translated as "Japanese Mock Orange".

Later on, the perfume probably made use of synthetic Syringa, explained below.

Bulletin de la Société d'encouragement pour l'industrie nationale, Volume 96, 1897:

"As we have noted about the essence of roses it is likely that this species as well as their perfumes pelargonium must not only geraniol and citronellol but still ethers compounds of these alcohols. The work of MM. J. Dupontet, J. Guerlain we have already mentioned as well as the observations made by MM. E. Charabot and G. Chiris confirm this hypothesis Terpineol Terpilénol G10H18O. This compound has a pleasant scent of syringa is sold commercially in perfumery under the name of Syringa, Lilacine, Muguet, etc.. The old syringa extracts were completely eliminated by terpineol products. Used in measured amounts in effect provides a scent that is indistinguishable from the fresh flowers of syringa. This compound is a product of hydration of turpentine or a dehydration product of terpine."

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Though discontinued at an unknown date, records show it was still being sold as late as 1897.

Shore's Caprice c1873

Shore’s-Caprice by Guerlain, launched in 1873, belongs to that luminous early chapter of the House’s history when perfumery still moved in poetic rhythms—when scents were meant to adorn a handkerchief or a velvet ribbon rather than the skin itself. Created by Aimé Guerlain, it was described as an extrait pour le mouchoir—a concentrated essence designed to perfume the delicate linen squares ladies carried everywhere. The name Shore’s-Caprice immediately conjures the romance of the sea, the glimmering edge where water meets land. Its title, in English rather than French, was unusual for Guerlain at the time and likely intended to evoke the cosmopolitan elegance of the Belle Époque’s earliest stirrings—a nod to fashionable seaside retreats and to the growing fascination with English and American society.

The word Caprice itself—meaning a whim, a fleeting fancy—suggests something spontaneous and unpredictable. Combined with Shore, it becomes a poetic contradiction: the restless spirit of the ocean paired with the momentary impulse of human emotion. The name itself flows like waves meeting the sand. It evokes imagery of seafoam, wind-tossed hair, and the delicate salt that lingers after a walk along the shore. To the Victorian imagination, such a name would have felt both daring and romantic. It hinted at travel and freedom, ideas that were particularly intoxicating in an era when women’s lives were still largely governed by social decorum.

The 1870s were years of change and elegance—a period marked by the end of the Franco-Prussian War and the rebirth of Paris as the world’s artistic and fashionable capital. Women wore tightly corseted gowns, layers of lace, and elaborate bustles, and they carried perfumed handkerchiefs as accessories of refinement. Fragrances at the time often took inspiration from nature’s purest expressions—floral bouquets, herbaceous waters, and marine breezes. Perfumers such as Lubin, Ed. Pinaud, and Woodworth had introduced “Ocean Spray” or “Sea Breeze” scents—delicate marine-inspired compositions that sought to capture freshness and modernity in a bottle. Shore’s-Caprice fit perfectly into this trend, aligning Guerlain’s artistry with a fashionable fascination for the sea, travel, and nature’s vitality.

Created for Comtesse Emanuella Pignatelli Potocka, a celebrated beauty and muse of her era, and later favored by Julia Forsell, Shore’s-Caprice was said to be inspired by the sea itself. The scent—though now lost to time—was likely a delicate, airy perfume built around ozonic florals and crystalline musks, with hints of green herbs and saltwater impressions that would have evoked linen drying in a sea breeze. In spirit, it may have resembled the “fur perfumes” mentioned by Gabriel Guerlain decades later—soft, powdery compositions designed to scent pelisses and muffs, evoking luxury and sensual warmth beneath the cool maritime theme.

To women of the late nineteenth century, a perfume called Shore’s-Caprice would have represented freedom within elegance—a whisper of wanderlust captured in a refined gesture. It spoke to a world expanding beyond drawing rooms, to steamer voyages, promenades by the sea, and the thrill of modern leisure. In scent, the name might translate as a marriage of air, salt, and sunlit florals, expressing the unpredictable beauty of the sea and the fleeting pleasures of love. Though its formula remains unknown, its poetry endures—one of Aimé Guerlain’s most mysterious and evocative creations, standing gracefully among the oceanic fantasies that rippled through perfumery in the 1870s and 1880s.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Shore's Caprice is classified as a floral oriental (ambery floral) fragrance with fougère nuances.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, petitgrain, cassia, lavender, sea wormwood, thyme
• Middle notes: samphire, marjoram, wild sage, savory, fennel, jasmine, wild rose
• Base notes: myrtle, sandalwood, cedar, pine resin, oakmoss, ambergris, civet, cistus

Scent Profile:

Imagine lifting the stopper of Shore’s Caprice, a perfume that immediately conjures the fresh, bracing air of a windswept coastline. The top notes open with a bright splash of bergamot and lemon, their sparkling citric oils releasing limonene and linalyl acetate, producing an invigorating, sunlit freshness that instantly awakens the senses. From Italy and southern France, these citrus fruits are renowned for their vibrant, tart brightness, distinguished from other regions by their richer, sweeter overtones.

Intertwined with these citrus notes, petitgrain adds a green, slightly bitter nuance, while cassia lends a warm, cinnamon-like spiciness, its cinnamaldehyde contributing a familiar, comforting warmth. The lavender—likely from the high Provençal fields—imbues a herbaceous, aromatic sharpness, combining camphoraceous and floral aldehydes. And subtly anchoring the coastal theme, sea wormwood, thyme, and wild Mediterranean herbs lend a saline, aromatic complexity reminiscent of a walk along cliffs by the sea, with their monoterpenes and thujone contributing crisp, slightly resinous accents.

As the fragrance unfolds into its heart, a wild, untamed garden emerges. Samphire gives a briny, marine-green nuance, perfectly evoking plants clinging to coastal rocks, while marjoram and wild sage offer a sweet, aromatic warmth with gentle resinous undertones. Savory and fennel contribute subtle anisic and peppery highlights, adding dimension and a savory counterpoint to the floral elements. The florals themselves are central: jasmine, heady and luminous, produces indoles and benzyl acetate that bring a creamy, sensual sweetness; wild rose adds a fresh, naturalistic fruitiness and the faintly tart, green facets that distinguish wild varieties from cultivated roses. Together, the middle notes conjure a richly layered bouquet of coastal flora meeting the wild meadows, deeply aromatic, yet delicately balanced.

Finally, the base notes provide a grounded, enduring warmth that wraps the composition in both comfort and intrigue. Myrtle gives a balsamic, slightly camphorous green depth, while sandalwood and cedar provide smooth, creamy woods with lingering santalols and cedrols that complement the sharpness of the top notes. Pine resin and oakmoss contribute earthy, resinous tones, adding a natural, forest-like undertone. The ambery sensuality emerges through ambergris, its sweet, marine-tinged warmth enriched by subtle synthetic enhancers that stabilize its volatility. Civet adds an animalic warmth, tempered by the aromatic freshness of the woods, while cistus (labdanum) brings a golden, resinous depth, rounding the fragrance with rich, slightly sweet balsamic undertones. Together, the base lingers like the memory of a stormy, sunlit coast at twilight, a harmony of earth, wood, salt, and resin.

From first spray to lingering drydown, Shore’s Caprice is a symphony of contrasts: the bright zest of citrus and herbs, the lushness of wild florals, and the grounding, ambered warmth of its base. The combination of natural extracts and synthetics allows the perfume to maintain fidelity to nature—evoking the wild coastal gardens of Europe—while enhancing longevity, projection, and a contemporary polish that ensures this 19th-century creation remains timeless and evocative today.

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon (parfum).

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1873, Le Mémorial diplomatique introduced Shore’s-Caprice as “the new scent for the proposed handkerchief,” a refined extrait designed for delicately perfuming the linen and lace that fashionable women carried everywhere. Guerlain, then located at 15 rue de la Paix, was already known for its elegance and technical precision, and this fragrance was listed alongside Royal Hunt as a choice favored by the Parisian elite. In those days, handkerchief perfumes — concentrated extraits dabbed onto fine fabrics — were considered the height of taste, meant not to overwhelm the air but to leave a subtle, personal trace.

By 1874, the Journal des demoiselles praised Shore’s-Caprice as one of the “best perfumes,” noting its unusual composition “of plants from the shores of the sea.” This description, rare for the period, places the scent within the growing Victorian fascination with nature, travel, and the exotic, while anchoring it in a poetic maritime theme. The “plants of the seashore” — likely aromatic herbs such as samphire, sea wormwood, thyme, and myrtle — would have given the perfume an invigorating greenness, fresh yet soft, quite distinct from the heavy floral bouquets popular in the same decade.

The Ilustración Española y Americana in 1874 situates Shore’s-Caprice in a broader constellation of Guerlain’s offerings — a house already celebrated for its elegant soaps, facial powders, and toilet waters. The passage reveals that Shore’s-Caprice was among the most “sought after essences of the handkerchief adopted by Parisian high fashion,” suggesting its popularity among well-traveled, cosmopolitan women who valued refinement and novelty. Its association with other Guerlain creations like Bouquet de la Neva and Parfum de France places it firmly within the elite olfactory vocabulary of the period: refined, distinctive, and unmistakably French, yet touched by the romance of distant landscapes.

By 1879, Théâtre de la Porte Saint-Martin advertisements confirm Shore’s-Caprice’s endurance and prestige. Listed alongside such iconic Guerlain perfumes as Bouquet Impérial Russe and Eau de Cologne Impériale, it remained a “sought-after” fragrance — one that appealed not only to society women but to actresses and artists of the Parisian stage, who often dictated fashion trends. The continued use of the perfume in this period underscores its luxurious versatility — it was elegant enough for court presentation yet lively and modern enough for the theater.

By 1886, in Pour Être Aimée: Conseils d'une Coquette by Louise Gagneur, Shore’s-Caprice had acquired a specific, rather sophisticated purpose: “completely special and original… it suits especially to neutralize the too pronounced odor of certain furs.” This practical note reveals the perfume’s cool, crisp strength, its ability to balance rich animal scents with fresh marine and herbal nuances — perhaps why it was favored in the colder months when women wore fur stoles and muffs. A similar note in the Revue Illustrée (1887) confirms this same function, describing it as “the original fragrance to neutralize the strong odor of certain furs.” It was both utilitarian and elegant — a refined solution to a distinctly upper-class problem.

By the time it appeared in the New York Times in 1901, Shore’s-Caprice had already endured for nearly three decades, listed among Guerlain’s “Extracts by the Ounce.” Its inclusion in export catalogs and American advertisements shows that it had crossed the Atlantic, appealing to the growing market of U.S. consumers seeking authentic Parisian luxury.

From these accounts, Shore’s-Caprice emerges as a perfume of distinction and subtlety — one that captured the bracing freshness of coastal air through natural means long before synthetic “marine” notes existed. It stood apart from the powdery florals and gourmand vanillas of its time, offering something clean, elegant, and worldly. Its connection to the sea, its use as a fur perfume, and its association with the refined rituals of handkerchief perfuming all point to a scent that was both practical and poetic, evoking the salt-kissed air of faraway shores while remaining firmly rooted in the polished elegance of 19th-century Parisian life.

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in the 1930s.