Reve de Lune c2012

Rêve de Lune by Guerlain was launched in 2012 as a sophisticated reimagining of Jean-Paul Guerlain’s earlier limited edition fragrance, Metallica (2000), later renamed Metalys. Thierry Wasser reworked the composition to create a concentrated parfum, elevating the intensity and richness of the original scent. The name Rêve de Lune, which translates from French as “Dream of the Moon” (pronounced "Rehv deh Loon"), evokes a sense of nocturnal mystery, romantic reverie, and ethereal elegance. The imagery conjured by the name is that of a moonlit night, silvered landscapes, and the quiet enchantment of twilight, encapsulating both wonder and intimacy.

The fragrance was launched during a period when perfumery trends were increasingly embracing deeper, more sensual compositions, with luxury consumers seeking perfumes that offered both uniqueness and narrative. 2012 was a time of refined minimalism in fashion and design, but with an appetite for luxury products that carried emotional and conceptual weight. Women of the period would likely have related to Rêve de Lune as a statement of sophistication and allure—an invitation to indulge in a fragrant fantasy, blending mystery and glamour.

Classified as a spicy oriental for women, Rêve de Lune aligns with Guerlain’s tradition of bold, sensual compositions. It distinguished itself through its balance of warmth and sparkle, offering a multi-layered experience that captured both the darkness and the luminescence suggested by its lunar-inspired name. Compared to other fragrances on the market at the time, it was unique in its reinterpretation of a past limited edition, preserving Guerlain’s signature olfactory identity while modernizing it with intensified depth and concentration, making it both a collector’s piece and a wearable work of art.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Reve de Lune is classified as a spicy oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon,bitter orange
• Middle notes: jasmine, ylang ylang, pepper, orange blossom, carnation
• Base notes: vanilla, tonka bean, balsma, resins

Scent Profile:

Rêve de Lune opens with a luminous, sparkling top accord where aldehydes immediately lend a crisp, effervescent lift, reminiscent of morning dew catching the first rays of moonlight. These synthetic aldehydes enhance the natural brightness of the citrus trio: Italian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, and bitter orange. The bergamot, known for its finely balanced sweet and tart nuances, brings a vibrant, slightly floral brightness, while the lemon adds a sparkling, zesty clarity. Bitter orange contributes a subtle depth and gentle bitterness that tempers the overt sweetness of the other two, giving the opening a nuanced, airy elegance. Together, this blend evokes the sensation of a soft, silvery glow across a moonlit horizon.

As the heart unfolds, the floral bouquet is rich, exotic, and intoxicating. Jasmine, harvested primarily from Grasse, France—the historic perfume capital—delivers its radiant, creamy, and slightly indolic character, heightened by naturally occurring benzyl acetate and jasmone, which impart a heady sweetness and sensual warmth. Ylang ylang adds a tropical, slightly fruity and floral opulence, contrasting the structured, almost green facets of pepper. The pepper note—vivid yet delicate—introduces a subtle spice, creating movement and intrigue in the heart. Orange blossom infuses a fresh, radiant sweetness with a hint of green freshness, while carnation, rich in eugenol, provides a warm, clove-like spiciness, echoing the fragrance’s oriental lineage. The heart feels vibrant and sensual, conjuring the quiet drama of a moonlit garden filled with exotic blooms.

The base of Rêve de Lune is anchored in warmth and depth, where resins and balsams provide a rich, enveloping softness. Vanilla, with its creamy, slightly sweet richness, is complemented by tonka bean, which adds a subtle almond-like warmth from its natural coumarin content. Together, they create a comforting, seductive foundation. Balsams and other resins contribute an earthy, resinous glow that balances the sweetness, while gently lifting the entire composition, lending a mystical, almost hypnotic aura. The result is a sensual, enveloping dry-down, reminiscent of a velvety nocturnal landscape touched by the soft luminescence of the moon—a perfect embodiment of the fragrance’s evocative name.

Every note is carefully orchestrated to harmonize the freshness of the top, the floral-spicy richness of the heart, and the warm, resinous depth of the base, creating a spicy oriental that is at once modern and timeless, luminous yet intensely intimate.

Bottle:

The 245ml Baccarat L’Abeille Aux Ailes Argent flacon is a striking testament to Guerlain’s dedication to artistry and exclusivity. This exquisite bottle features delicately sculpted wings, each painstakingly adorned with hand-applied silver leaf, creating a luminous, shimmering effect that captures light from every angle. The craftsmanship evokes the ethereal elegance of a winged bee in mid-flight, an enduring symbol of Guerlain’s heritage, refinement, and meticulous attention to detail.

Only 57 numbered pieces of this exceptional edition were produced worldwide, emphasizing its rarity and collectible value. The combination of Baccarat’s renowned crystal clarity and the silvery luster of the gilded wings elevates the flacon from a mere container to a work of art, blending luxury, precision, and imagination. Each piece is a tactile and visual delight, designed to appeal to collectors and connoisseurs who appreciate the intersection of fine perfumery and masterful crystal artistry. At $25,000 US dollars, the flacon embodies both an investment in craftsmanship and a celebration of Guerlain’s storied legacy.

Paradis Interdit c2011

Paradis Interdit by Guerlain, launched in 2011 as an exclusive limited edition, is a fragrance steeped in mystery and sensuality. The name, pronounced as “Pa-ra-dee An-ter-dee,” translates from French as Forbidden Paradise. It evokes an alluring tension between desire and restraint, conjuring images of hidden gardens, secret alcoves, and the intoxicating thrill of something just beyond reach. The title alone suggests an experience both luxurious and daring, perfectly aligned with Guerlain’s tradition of creating perfumes that are as emotionally evocative as they are olfactorily sophisticated.

The fragrance was created during a period when haute perfumery was seeing a renewed focus on exclusivity, craftsmanship, and narrative storytelling in scent. In 2011, Guerlain was balancing its illustrious heritage with contemporary innovation, appealing to women who sought fragrances that conveyed individuality and refinement. Paradis Interdit speaks to this sensibility: it is a perfume designed for women drawn to elegance tempered with a hint of audacity, for those who want a fragrance that evokes secret pleasures and hidden worlds.

Thierry Wasser, Guerlain’s in-house perfumer, drew inspiration from the House’s historic book of formulas, containing over 180 years of perfume secrets. In doing so, he infused Paradis Interdit with a sense of continuity and lineage while giving it a modern floral expression. Classified as a floral fragrance for women, it is delicate yet layered, creating a sophisticated impression without overwhelming the senses. Its design and scent positioning placed it in line with the high-end, collector-oriented trends of the time, appealing to discerning clients who appreciated the House’s signature depth and elegance, yet it also stood out for its narrative and exclusivity.

In essence, Paradis Interdit is a celebration of refined mystery: a floral composition that captures the imagination while inviting the wearer to partake in a secret garden of olfactory pleasure. It embodies the Guerlain philosophy of marrying history and artistry, creating a perfume that is at once timeless and provocatively contemporary.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Paradis Interdit is classified as a floral fragrance for women.

• Top-notes: aldehydes, rose berries and mandarin
• Middle-notes: jasmine, gardenia and ylang-ylang
• Base notes: vetiver, labdanum, tonka bean, honey, sandalwood and white musk

Scent Profile:

Paradis Interdit opens with a luminous burst of aldehydes, immediately imparting a sparkling, airy quality that lifts the spirit. These aldehydes add a subtle metallic brightness, enhancing the natural radiance of the other top notes, while creating a sense of effervescence. Layered atop this shimmer are the tart, vibrant nuances of rose berries, whose slightly fruity, peppery facet evokes freshness and playfulness, and the sunny sweetness of mandarin, sourced from Southern Italy. Italian mandarin is prized for its juicy, sun-drenched quality, rich in limonene, which gives the perfume a crisp, sparkling citrus brightness without overwhelming the nose.

As the perfume begins to blossom, the heart reveals a creamy, intoxicating floral bouquet. Jasmine, drawn perhaps from the warm fields of Grasse, unfolds with its soft, narcotic sweetness, enriched by indole compounds that give it a warm, almost animalic depth. Gardenia adds a velvety, green creaminess, its lactones contributing a soft, milky richness, while ylang-ylang imparts an exotic, slightly heady aroma, tinged with tropical floral sweetness. The synergy of these three florals is balanced, not cloying, highlighting Guerlain’s mastery in layering multiple blooms so that each note is distinct yet harmonious.

The base notes of Paradis Interdit ground the fragrance with a rich, sensuous depth. Vetiver lends a smoky, earthy undertone, sourced from Java or Haiti, where its roots produce high levels of vetiverol and khusimol, giving an aromatic, woody complexity. Labdanum contributes resinous warmth, offering a subtle leathery quality and enhancing the longevity of the florals. Tonka bean introduces soft, vanilla-like sweetness from coumarin, harmonizing with the honey’s natural gourmand richness. Sandalwood, likely from Mysore, provides a creamy, milky woody resonance, its alpha- and beta-santalol contributing to a silky smoothness. White musk ties the composition together with a clean, velvety softness, reinforcing the powdery, lingering trail of the perfume.

From the first spray to the lingering dry-down, Paradis Interdit evokes the sensation of stepping into a secret, sunlit garden: airy, bright, and immediately inviting, yet layered with depth and sensuality. Each ingredient is chosen not only for its intrinsic olfactory character but for the way it interacts with the others, and subtle synthetic enhancements ensure clarity, longevity, and radiance, giving this limited-edition Guerlain floral a refined, multidimensional personality.

Bottle:

The 245ml Baccarat L’Abeille Aux Ailes Or flacon is a breathtaking example of luxury and artistry. Crafted in Baccarat’s renowned crystal, the bottle itself is a masterpiece of clarity and precision, each facet catching and reflecting light to create an almost ethereal glow. What immediately distinguishes this flacon is its hand-painted 18-carat gold wings, delicately applied to emulate the shimmering, intricate structure of a bee’s wings, lending the piece both elegance and a sense of movement as though the insect might take flight at any moment.

This edition is exceptionally rare—only 57 numbered flacons were produced worldwide, making it not only a vessel for fragrance but a collector’s treasure. The meticulous attention to detail in the gilding and painting underscores Baccarat’s reputation for perfection, where craftsmanship meets artistry. The size of 245ml further enhances the presence of the flacon, giving it a commanding yet graceful stature on any display.

With a retail value of $25,000, L’Abeille Aux Ailes Or transcends conventional perfumery presentation, standing as a celebration of both the house of Guerlain’s legacy and Baccarat’s mastery in crystal. It evokes not just the fragrance it contains but the grandeur, precision, and artistry of early 20th-century French luxury, offering a tactile and visual experience as much as an olfactory one. The combination of crystal, gold, and exquisite design transforms this flacon into a singular objet d’art, a symbol of exclusivity and refined taste.

Habit Rouge L'Extrait c2008

Habit Rouge L’Extrait by Guerlain, first released in 2008 as a limited edition, represents the purest and most opulent expression of the original Habit Rouge from 1965. What began as a special creation soon became an annual production due to its enthusiastic reception among collectors and connoisseurs of refined masculines. Unlike Guerlain’s continuously produced bestsellers, Habit Rouge L’Extrait appears in small, carefully crafted batches—its rarity only enhancing its allure.

From the very first impression, the fragrance commands attention with the same aristocratic poise and daring sensuality that defined the original Habit Rouge. The opening reveals a deeply concentrated and smoother interpretation of the familiar oriental accord—an interplay of warm citrus, ambered spice, and a distinct note of polished leather. The spirit of the classic fragrance is here, but magnified: the brightness of citrus is subdued to a subtle gleam, giving way quickly to the heart’s ardent warmth.

At its core lies a rich, spicy sensuality—a symphony of cinnamon, clove, and pepper—woven through with the smooth, slightly powdery nuance of Guerlinade. The heart beats with fervor, echoing the refinement of a tailored riding jacket and the thrill of galloping through the crisp air. As the fragrance deepens, the base reveals its true opulence: a velvety mélange of patchouli, warm vanilla, and supple leather, their harmony intensified in extract concentration. The leathery undertone, more refined than animalic, suggests the scent of well-tended saddlery—luxurious yet masculine, resonant yet never harsh.

The hallmark Guerlinade accord—the signature of tonka bean, vanilla, and opoponax—radiates with an enveloping warmth, lending the composition its sensuous, enveloping trail. Each note feels richer and more textured than in the eau de toilette or eau de parfum, as though the entire composition has been burnished to a glowing depth.

Encased in elegant presentation befitting its stature, Habit Rouge L’Extrait was made available in a 50 ml spray and in two grand bee flacons—500 ml and 1000 ml—for true aficionados of the house. It remains one of the first true men’s extraits ever created in perfumery—a daring concept executed with the finesse only Guerlain could achieve. Both audacious and supremely refined, it is a fragrance that embodies the passion, discipline, and artistry of a man—and a Maison—that dares to master emotion through scent.

Guerlain's First USA Boutique 1984

In April 1984, the House of Guerlain marked an important milestone in its history with the opening of its first American boutique, located in the prestigious Bergdorf Goodman department store on Fifth Avenue, New York City. The announcement, made through an elegant press release, reflected the brand’s deep commitment to craftsmanship, refinement, and heritage. For nearly 160 years, Guerlain had been synonymous with French luxury and artistry in fragrance and skincare, and this new boutique represented not only its arrival in the United States but also the expansion of its Parisian identity into an American setting.

Designed to echo the opulent atmosphere of the Guerlain flagship on the Champs-Élysées, the Bergdorf Goodman rotunda was transformed into a space that embodied the maison’s unmistakable aesthetic—elegant, luminous, and refined. The boutique was conceived as more than a retail counter; it was an experience of Guerlain’s legacy, a place where beauty and tradition converged beneath the iconic Bergdorf chandeliers.

The opening coincided with the American debut of Issima, Guerlain’s ultra-luxurious skincare line, launched globally in 1980 and already acclaimed for its advanced formulation featuring Hydrolastine, a proprietary ingredient developed to revitalize and preserve the skin’s youthful elasticity. Offered exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman, the Issima range reflected Guerlain’s mastery not only in fragrance but also in the emerging field of scientific skincare—a synthesis of innovation and indulgence.

In addition to its skincare collection, the boutique introduced five previously unavailable Guerlain fragrances to the U.S. market, each representing a milestone in the house’s artistic evolution. These included Eau de Cologne du Coq (1894), a bright and effervescent citrus cologne; Après L’Ondée (1906), a poetic bouquet of violets and heliotrope evoking the freshness after a spring rain; Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat (1920), a sparkling and aromatic lemon composition; Vol de Nuit (1933), a mysterious chypre inspired by Saint-Exupéry’s novel of the same name; and Eau de Guerlain (1974), a modern reinterpretation of the maison’s citrus heritage.

The boutique also showcased Guerlain’s renowned floral soaps, each perfumed with the brand’s signature refinement—Iris, Geranium,Jasmine, Fleurs des Alpes, and Savon de Jeune Âge, a soft, delicately fragranced soap for youthful skin. These luxurious soaps, displayed in elegant packaging, exemplified Guerlain’s dedication to sensory beauty in even the smallest details.

The 1984 opening of Guerlain’s Bergdorf Goodman boutique symbolized the transatlantic bridge of Parisian elegance, bringing to New York the same sense of prestige and artistry long associated with the Champs-Élysées. It was more than a retail debut—it was the arrival of la tradition française de beauté on American soil, inviting a new audience to experience the timeless allure of the House of Guerlain.

Insolence Shimmering Edition c2008

Insolence Shimmering Edition by Guerlain, a limited edition, launched in 2008, captured the glamour and audacious femininity of its time — a reflection of confidence, sensuality, and playful extravagance. The name itself is layered with meaning. The French word “Insolence” translates to “boldness” or “impertinence,” suggesting a woman who is unapologetically herself — confident, luminous, and perhaps delightfully rebellious. When paired with “Shimmering Edition,” the name evokes not only this spirit of radiant self-assurance but also a visual and tactile fantasy: light dancing across skin, a silken trail of glitter, and the sparkle of laughter at twilight. The combination of fragrance and shimmer speaks to the idea of perfume not merely as scent, but as adornment — an invisible jewel that glows on the body.

The Shimmering Edition was released as part of an era fascinated by glamour and sensual expression. The late 2000s were defined by a blend of luxury and playfulness — metallic fabrics, luminous makeup, and pearlescent finishes dominated beauty and fashion. Designers such as Dior, Chanel, and Gucci celebrated femininity with an edge; fashion drew inspiration from 1980s opulence, reviving shimmer, sequins, and bold color contrasts. In perfumery, fruity florals and sweet, gourmand compositions reigned, offering a sense of youthful indulgence and emotional escapism during a time of both optimism and economic uncertainty. Within this context, Guerlain’s Insolence Shimmering Edition embodied the glamour of the decade while remaining loyal to the house’s tradition of sophistication and craft.

To the women of 2008, Insolence Shimmering Edition would have represented both empowerment and play — the ability to embrace sensuality without restraint. The fragrance’s luminous formula was accompanied by shimmering body milk and a powder brush infused with fine, micronized glitter, leaving a delicate iridescent veil on the skin. This tactile brilliance enhanced the experience of wearing perfume; it was scent turned spectacle, designed to make the wearer feel radiant and unforgettable. For a generation raised amid beauty tutorials, red carpet allure, and self-expression through fashion, “Insolence” became less a transgression and more a celebration of individuality.

Interpreted through scent, the word “Insolence” becomes a declaration of exuberant femininity. Created by Maurice Roucel and Sylvaine Delacourte, the perfume is a fruity floral — a genre that dominated the 2000s but which Guerlain elevated through its signature refinement. The fragrance bursts open with bright, candied violet and red berries, suggesting youthful flirtation and sparkling confidence. Beneath this playful introduction lies a heart of orange blossom, rose, and iris, which lend softness and an elegant vintage echo — a subtle nod to Guerlain’s heritage. The base, smooth with tonka bean, sandalwood, and a hint of musk, grounds the exuberance in warmth and sensuality, turning what could be girlish sweetness into sophistication.

Though Insolence Shimmering Edition aligned with the contemporary taste for luminous, sweet florals, its execution was distinctively Guerlain — blending classic craftsmanship with modern glamour. The shimmer, both literal and olfactory, symbolized transformation: perfume as light, confidence as adornment, insolence as art. It was a fragrance that dared to be seen, yet remained effortlessly elegant — a radiant expression of womanhood at the cusp of a new decade.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Insolence Shimmering Edition is classified as a fruity floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: red berries, raspberry, lemon, bergamot
• Middle notes: violet, jasmine and rose  
• Base notes: sweet resins, balms and iris

Scent Profile:

To experience Insolence Shimmering Edition by Guerlain is to step into a halo of light and scent — radiant, playful, and unabashedly feminine. The fragrance opens in a burst of red berries and raspberry, their brightness effervescent and mouthwatering. The raspberry note, with its naturally occurring molecules such as ionones and raspberry ketone, provides both sweetness and a velvety texture, evoking the feel of ripe fruit warmed by sunlight. Red berries lend a tart, juicy liveliness that sparkles like pink champagne bubbles. The addition of lemon and bergamot, most likely sourced from southern Italy, cuts through the sweetness with a clean, zesty brilliance. Italian bergamot, prized for its luminous, floral-green complexity, contains linalyl acetate and limonene, aroma molecules that bring effervescence and freshness. Together, they give the opening a crystalline brightness — the olfactory equivalent of light refracting on a faceted gem.

As the composition settles, the heart unfurls a lavish bouquet of violet, jasmine, and rose — the classical trinity of feminine perfumery, here reimagined in a modern, glimmering harmony. Violet, rich in ionones, exudes a powdery, sweet, and slightly candied aroma reminiscent of violet pastilles. The ionones also bridge the floral and fruity notes, linking the sweetness of the top to the sensuality of the heart. Jasmine, most likely from Egypt, introduces a narcotic creaminess due to its natural benzyl acetate and indole, molecules that lend both radiance and sensual depth. Egyptian jasmine is particularly prized for its rich, warm, honeyed tone — more voluptuous than its Indian counterpart. The rose, possibly a blend of Bulgarian and Turkish varieties, anchors the floral heart with its deep, romantic warmth. The phenylethyl alcohol within rose contributes a soft, petal-like sweetness, while the use of synthetic rose notes such as damascones amplifies its fruitiness, adding a modern shimmer to the natural bloom.

As the perfume dries down, it becomes softer and more introspective. The base of sweet resins, balms, and iris envelops the skin like silk infused with golden light. The resins — perhaps benzoin from Laos or tolu balsam from South America — add a languid, vanillic warmth. Their natural components, such as benzoic acid and vanillin, create a soothing, ambered sweetness. Synthetic musks and vanillic molecules likely heighten this soft glow, extending the perfume’s radiance and lending it the “shimmering” quality that lingers long after application. The iris, one of Guerlain’s most beloved notes, is ethereal and tactile at once — its rooty, buttery, slightly powdery scent arising from irones, the precious molecules formed after years of drying the rhizomes. Italian iris, in particular, is valued for its purity and depth, imparting a cool, suede-like elegance that anchors the sweetness without ever dulling it.

The result is a fragrance that feels alive with light — from the sparkling fruit and citrus of its opening, to the luminous heart of violet and rose, and finally to the glowing, sensual base of iris and resin. The interplay of natural materials with refined synthetics gives Insolence Shimmering Edition its modern radiance — enhancing each facet until the perfume feels almost iridescent. It is as though scent itself has been dusted with starlight, leaving a whisper of sparkle and warmth wherever it touches the skin.

 

Bottle:

Insolence Shimmering Edition was presented in a luxurious, modern reinterpretation of Guerlain’s signature flacon — a sculptural form whose metal-clad body catches the light like molten silver. The sleek metallic finish mirrors the iridescent quality of the fragrance itself: a play of luminosity, reflection, and sensual depth. Though faithful in shape to the original Insolence bottle, this edition transforms it into an object of radiance, echoing the perfume’s name and concept — insolence not as defiance, but as confidence, brilliance, and self-assured beauty.

The collection was conceived as a complete sensory experience. The 50ml Eau de Toilette embodies the heart of the composition — its fruit-and-floral sparkle translating into a luminous veil of scent that clings delicately to the skin. Accompanying it, the 6.8 oz Shimmering Body Milk extends the ritual, hydrating the skin while infusing it with a soft, satin sheen. Micronized glitter particles — impossibly fine and weightless — are suspended within the silky emulsion, catching the light with every movement, creating the illusion of a glowing aura. The scent lingers lightly, interwoven with the tactile pleasure of touch and reflection, enhancing the wearer’s natural radiance.

The most playful and decadent of the trio, the 0.21 oz Shimmering Powder Brush for the Body, transforms perfume into adornment. With each sweep of the brush, a dusting of perfumed powder kisses the shoulders, décolleté, or hair, leaving behind a barely-there shimmer reminiscent of moonlight on skin. The micronized glitter — chosen for its subtlety and refinement — reflects light in a way that is more luminous than glittering, more elegant than ostentatious. It recalls the soft glamour of Guerlain’s golden age of powder and perfume, when scent was not merely worn but worshiped, layered and experienced in ritual.

Together, these shimmering editions form a cohesive, multisensory expression of Insolence — a perfume not only to be smelled, but seen and felt. The metal bottle gleams with modern sensuality, while the glittering textures of the body milk and powder bring Guerlain’s heritage of opulent craftsmanship into the 21st century. It is an embodiment of radiance — scent turned into light, and light turned into luxury.

Attrape Coeur c2005

Attrape-Cœur, one of Guerlain’s most romantic and elusive fragrances, carries with it a name steeped in emotion, longing, and intrigue. Translated from French, “Attrape-Cœur” (pronounced "ah-trahp-kur") means “heart-catcher” or “heart-thief.” The phrase immediately conjures a sense of passionate seduction and tender vulnerability — a perfume designed to both ensnare and be remembered. The name evokes the thrill of falling in love, the bittersweet ache of memory, and the softness of an embrace — emotions that perfectly align with Guerlain’s long-standing mastery of sensual, emotive perfumery.

When it was reintroduced in 2005 under the name Attrape-Cœur, this perfume was no longer simply a beautiful scent — it was an invitation to feel. The name itself captures the essence of what perfume is meant to do: to reach inward and stir the heart. It recalls the wistful nostalgia of J.D. Salinger’s The Catcher in the Rye, whose French title happens to be L’Attrape-Cœurs — a subtle nod to innocence, loss, and the yearning to preserve beauty in a fleeting world. For Guerlain, the name symbolizes love’s dual nature: tender yet powerful, fleeting yet unforgettable.

The fragrance first appeared in 1999 as Guet-Apens, meaning “ambush” — another phrase tied to emotional and sensual intrigue. The two names are poetic opposites: Guet-Apens spoke of seduction as a snare, while Attrape-Cœur transformed it into an affair of the soul. When Guerlain reintroduced the perfume under its new name in the early 2000s, it was entering a perfumery landscape that had grown increasingly modern and minimalist. Yet, Attrape-Cœur defied this by embracing opulence — a rich, enveloping ambery floral that stood apart from the era’s aquatic, clean, and synthetic trends.

The early 2000s were defined by a revival of sensual femininity in fashion and fragrance. Sheer fabrics, metallic tones, and couture nostalgia replaced the stark minimalism of the 1990s. Houses like Dior and Chanel were returning to classical codes reimagined for a new millennium, and Guerlain followed suit — reaffirming its identity as the keeper of romantic, timeless luxury. Attrape-Cœur fit this perfectly: elegant yet modern, an amber-laced floral that whispered of powdered silk, polished woods, and golden light.

Women of the period, balancing contemporary confidence with a renewed fascination for vintage glamour, would have found in Attrape-Cœur a scent of intimacy and sophistication. It was neither girlish nor ostentatious, but rather deeply personal — a fragrance meant to be worn close to the skin, like a secret. The name itself, “Heart-Catcher,” would have resonated with the romanticism of the time: love stories rediscovered, passion expressed through refinement, and individuality celebrated through scent.

In terms of its olfactory message, Attrape-Cœur interprets its name in layers of warmth and tenderness. The fragrance opens with a luminous, velvety brightness — a prelude to intimacy. Soon, its heart reveals a deep floral accord woven with iris, jasmine, and perhaps a touch of violet, balanced by the honeyed, ambery undertones that define Guerlain’s signature style. Its base, rich with sandalwood, vanilla, and musk, captures the enduring warmth of a lingering embrace — the “heart caught” and held.

Against the backdrop of late-1990s and early-2000s perfumery — dominated by transparent florals, ozonic notes, and minimalist compositions — Attrape-Cœur was unmistakably unique. It was a perfume that looked backward and forward at once: an homage to Guerlain’s heritage and an assertion of its relevance in a new era. Rather than following trends, it quietly redefined them, reminding the world that emotion, memory, and craftsmanship could still triumph over fleeting novelty.

To wear Attrape-Cœur was, and still is, to wear a story — a narrative of love captured and preserved in amber light, the echo of a heartbeat rendered in scent.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Attrape Coeur is classified as an ambery floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: peach and cinnamon
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, violet, iris, tuberose
• Base notes: orris, vanilla, musk, leather, sandalwood, ambergris and oakmoss

Scent Profile:

When first encountering Attrape-Cœur, the sensation is one of quiet captivation — as though the fragrance doesn’t announce itself, but rather draws you in, like a whispered secret. It opens in a soft, golden haze where peach and cinnamon entwine with exquisite restraint. The peach, velvety and sun-warmed, carries the plush sweetness of late summer fruit, its lactonic undertones lending a round, creamy texture that melts into the skin. This note recalls the finest French peach absolutes once extracted for perfumery — their richness achieved through a balance of natural fruity esters like γ-decalactone, which gives that distinct “fuzzy skin” effect. 

Against this, Ceylon cinnamon (Cinnamomum verum) unfurls its warm, honeyed spice. Unlike the harsher cassia, true Ceylon cinnamon has a delicate sweetness and a woody-smooth depth; its natural cinnamaldehyde lends both structure and sensual heat, tempering the peach’s softness with quiet passion.

As the perfume settles, the heart blossoms into a dreamlike floral arrangement that embodies Guerlain’s signature romanticism. Jasmine, likely sourced from Grasse or Egypt, brings an indolic richness — those faintly animalic molecules such as indole and methyl anthranilate giving it both body and sensual allure. Its opulence is tempered by rose, possibly Bulgarian or Turkish, with facets of honey and lemon, its natural geraniol and citronellol giving vibrancy to the bouquet. 

Violet lends a powdery tenderness, derived from ionones — aroma molecules that evoke crushed petals and soft suede — while iris, with its prized orris butter from Italian rhizomes, anchors the heart in luxurious texture. The iris’s ionones and irones add an aristocratic dustiness, evoking silk powder puffs and faded love letters. Amid these, tuberose contributes a narcotic creaminess, its naturally occurring methyl benzoate and salicylates lending an intoxicating, almost luminous sweetness that swells like moonlight through satin.

The base of Attrape-Cœur is where its heart is truly caught — a tender and magnetic warmth that lingers like the memory of a lover’s touch. Orris deepens here, fused with vanilla from Madagascar — rich in vanillin and coumarin, its sweet balsamic notes softening the edges of the composition. The musk provides an enveloping sensuality — synthetic, of course, yet engineered to replicate the soft, skin-like warmth of natural deer musk now long banned. These musks, such as galaxolide or muscone, enhance the floral body, creating a lasting trail that feels intimate and tactile. 

Leather introduces an animalic undertone — not harsh, but refined, recalling fine gloves and vintage handbags, the effect achieved through birch tar and isobutyl quinoline, both adding a smoky green depth. Sandalwood, likely from Mysore in its era, offers creamy, sacred warmth through its natural santalols, while ambergris, once sourced from the sea, lends an ethereal salinity and radiant diffusion, harmonizing the blend with a soft golden glow. Finally, oakmoss grounds everything in earthy elegance — its treemoss absolutes rich in evernyl and atranol, imparting a velvety mossiness that ties the floral heart to the wooded earth below.

Together, these elements form an olfactory poem — Attrape-Cœur is both tender and resolute, ephemeral and eternal. The interplay of fruit, spice, and flower seems to pulse with life, while the base — ambered, mossy, and softly musky — hums with emotion. Each note feels suspended in time, a perfect balance between the natural and the imagined. The synthetics here don’t obscure the natural materials — they illuminate them, like light falling across a painting, heightening the textures and revealing the warmth beneath.

To smell Attrape-Cœur is to experience love translated into scent — that moment between surrender and remembrance, when the heart is caught and held in amber light.

Bottles:

Presented in a white bee bottle, part of the Les Parisiennes line.

• 125ml eau de parfum

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued in 2010.

Mi-Mai c1914

Mi-Mai by Guerlain, launched in 1914, is a delicate homage to the gentle and renewing qualities of mid-May, reflected both in its name and its scent. The French term “Mi-Mai” literally translates to “mid-May” and is pronounced "mee-my". The name evokes images of lush spring gardens, tender blooms, and the soft, fresh air of a day when nature is in full renewal. It conveys a sense of lightness, vitality, and understated elegance, suggesting a fragrance that captures the fleeting charm and freshness of early summer days.

The fragrance was created by Jacques Guerlain during a period of social and cultural transition in Europe, just at the onset of World War I. Fashion at the time emphasized soft femininity, with flowing dresses, delicate laces, and pastel colors, echoing the gentle, green freshness of the season. Women of the era would likely have related to Mi-Mai as an olfactive reflection of their own aspirations for grace, beauty, and serenity amidst an increasingly uncertain world.

Classified as a green, feminine fragrance, Mi-Mai captures the essence of young leaves, dewy grass, and early floral notes, resonating with the early 20th-century trend for naturalistic scents that celebrated the outdoors. While other perfumeries of the period also explored green and floral compositions, Jacques Guerlain’s approach combined refined elegance with subtle complexity, creating a scent that was both familiar and distinct. The fragrance stands as a testament to Guerlain’s ability to translate seasonal and emotional nuances into olfactory art, offering a sophisticated and lively tribute to the month of May.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Mi-Mai is classified as a green floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, violet
• Middle notes: rose, lilac, jasmine, lily of the valley, ylang ylang and musk
• Base notes: suede and vanilla

Scent Profile:

Mi-Mai unfolds as a luminous green floral fragrance that gently celebrates the freshness and vitality of early spring. From the very first spritz, the top notes open with the delicate radiance of jasmine, its warm, honeyed facets instantly lifting the senses with a soft, floral sweetness. This is complemented by the subtly green, dewy aroma of lily of the valley, evoking a meadow in mid-May with its crisp, watery green nuances. Rose introduces its classic elegance, providing a romantic, velvety heart, while violet adds a soft powdery touch, imparting an airy, slightly sweet greenness that is both youthful and refined. Together, these top notes create a verdant bouquet that is at once sparkling, soft, and invigorating.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a more layered floral composition. Rose deepens with a richer, more textured presence, drawing on both its Damask and Bulgarian qualities for a full-bodied, honeyed floral warmth. Lilac offers its airy, slightly green aroma, reminiscent of spring gardens just awakening, while jasmine resurfaces, enhancing the creamy, narcotic floralcy with its indolic depth. Lily of the valley continues to add a crisp brightness, lifting the heart with subtle watery freshness. Ylang-ylang introduces an exotic, slightly creamy, and narcotic dimension, infusing the bouquet with a warm, sultry sweetness that contrasts and complements the lighter florals. A gentle musk undercurrent weaves through the heart, imparting a soft, skin-like warmth and adding longevity to the delicate florals.

In the base, the fragrance settles into a tender, comforting embrace. Suede provides a smooth, slightly powdery, leathery richness that grounds the lighter florals, evoking elegance and understated sophistication. Vanilla adds a soft, sweet warmth that lingers on the skin, rounding out the composition with a comforting, creamy finish. Together, the base notes anchor the ethereal top and heart notes, leaving a lingering trail of subtle warmth, refined sweetness, and green floral elegance.

Overall, Mi-Mai is a harmonious orchestration of fresh green florals and gentle musky-vanilla undertones, capturing the very spirit of a mild mid-May day in a sophisticated and timeless scent. It reflects Guerlain’s mastery in balancing light, airy florals with a delicate depth, creating a fragrance that is both immediately appealing and quietly enduring.

Bottles:

Presented in a ‘Bouchon Fleurs’ bottle (parfum) with a frosted stopper molded with flowers.

Parfum came in three sizes, prices quoted below were for c1941:

• 2 oz, $14.00
• 4 oz, $20.00
• 8 oz, $40.00

early bottle for Mi-Mai, photo from ebay stopper is broken off.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued by 1951.