La Malle de Voyage - 160 Year Anniversary of the Bee Bottle c2013

La Malle de Voyage, created in 2013, stands as a striking celebration of Guerlain’s heritage, commemorating the 160th anniversary of the iconic bee bottle, or Abeille flacon. This extraordinary project brought together nine Maîtres d’art from the Institut National des Métiers d’Art (INMA) of France, granting each artisan complete creative freedom to design around a monumental one-litre bee bottle. The resulting pieces are not merely perfume containers but singular works of art—each a one-of-a-kind masterpiece embodying the finest craftsmanship of contemporary French artisans.

The artistic trunks were first displayed at the Maison Guerlain on the Champs-Élysées from December 2013 through February 2014 and later featured in Guerlain’s Exclusive Line Doors exhibitions in 2014, documented through both photographs and videos. These creations were destined not only as collector pieces but also to support the “Maîtres d’art – Students” initiative, ensuring that rare, exceptional skills are passed from master artists to apprentices under the supervision of the INMA.

 

Serge Amoruso, a Maître d’art specializing in rare leathers and trained at Hermès in traditional historical leather techniques, contributed a particularly striking trunk. His design, La Malle de Voyage (“The Travel Trunk”), is presented as two identical sections, split like a lightning bolt or a broken mold, evoking both movement and energy. The materials chosen are extraordinary: sumptuous red Morocco leather, delicately stamped parchment on the interior, midnight blue shagreen, and contrasting carbon fiber on the exterior. A fragment of meteorite crowns the trunk, symbolically opening the “doors of time” and infusing the work with a celestial, almost otherworldly allure.

Every element of La Malle de Voyage balances tradition and modernity, merging historical craftsmanship with contemporary artistic vision. The trunk exemplifies Guerlain’s dedication to artistic excellence and the preservation of rare artisanal skills, transforming the perfume bottle into a sculptural, narrative object that embodies both luxury and imagination.

Cananga Blanc 1879

Cananga Blanc by Guerlain, launched in 1879 and created by Aimé Guerlain, is a poetic homage to one of nature’s most opulent blossoms — Cananga odorata, better known as ylang-ylang. The name “Cananga Blanc” translates from French to “White Cananga,” pronounced kah-NAHN-gah blahnk. The choice of name evokes purity, elegance, and a sense of tropical luminosity softened by refinement. It suggests a flower bathed in morning light, its creamy petals glistening with dew — a vision that balances exotic warmth with the delicacy expected from a Parisian perfume house.

The ylang-ylang tree, native to the Philippines and Indonesia, thrives in humid tropical climates where its glossy leaves and star-shaped yellow blossoms release a heady perfume at dusk. The essential oil is extracted through fractional steam distillation, a process that separates the oil into several grades depending on when the volatile molecules are released. The first fraction — called ylang-ylang extra — captures the most ethereal, floral, and jasmine-like molecules such as linalool, benzyl acetate, and methyl benzoate, lending brightness and radiance. The deeper fractions yield heavier, more sensual notes rich in p-cresyl methyl ether and benzyl salicylate, which contribute creamy, slightly spicy, and animalic tones. It is this duality — airy and radiant above, sultry and narcotic below — that makes ylang-ylang an olfactory marvel.

The epithet “Blanc” (meaning “white”) was a deliberate contrast to the sensual richness of the raw material itself. In the 19th century, “white” symbolized purity, refinement, and modernity — qualities admired in the emerging urban sophisticate. Guerlain’s Cananga Blanc would have conjured an image of tropical exoticism tempered by Parisian grace, a fragrance that felt both foreign and familiar. Women of the late Victorian era, often bound by social restraint, were drawn to perfumes that suggested refinement with a whisper of sensuality beneath. Cananga Blanc provided exactly that balance: a floral bouquet that glowed with innocence yet carried the mysterious warmth of distant islands.

 

The late 1870s were part of the Belle Époque’s early stirrings, a time of industrial progress, artistic innovation, and heightened attention to luxury and beauty. Perfumery was entering a new age of sophistication, as scientific discovery and artistry began to intertwine. Natural materials such as ylang-ylang, jasmine, and rose were still dominant, but perfumers like Aimé Guerlain were beginning to explore the possibilities of synthetic aroma chemicals, allowing them to refine and elevate natural scents. Cananga Blanc reflected this shift — it maintained the authenticity of tropical flower essences while incorporating modern techniques to create a smoother, more enduring impression.

In the landscape of 19th-century perfumery, Cananga Blanc was both timeless and trend-aware. The popularity of ylang-ylang had already been established — nearly every major perfumery had a version — yet Guerlain’s interpretation stood apart for its elegance and restraint. Rather than drowning the composition in the flower’s narcotic sweetness, Aimé Guerlain allowed the luminous, creamy facets to shine, pairing them with subtle citrus or powdery undertones that gave the perfume a silken texture.

To a woman of the 1880s, Cananga Blanc would have represented the romance of the tropics filtered through the lens of French refinement — the scent of faraway shores captured in crystal, at once daring and decorous. In scent, the name “Cananga Blanc” translates to sunlight on white petals, a whisper of jasmine and custard, and the lingering caress of warm, polished skin — the embodiment of exotic beauty made elegant and eternal.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Cananga Blanc is classified as a floral musk fragrance — more specifically, a soft floral musk with powdery undertones.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, neroli, cananga
• Middle notes: bitter almond, jasmine, ylang ylang
• Base notes: orris, musk

Scent Profile:

Cananga Blanc unfolds like a quiet sunrise over a tropical garden, its opening notes awakening the senses with a luminous freshness that softens gracefully into creamy florals and a tender, powdery base. It is a floral musk, delicate yet resonant — a harmony of citrus light, white blossoms, and silken musks that together form a portrait of restrained exoticism wrapped in Parisian refinement.

The perfume begins with the vivid sparkle of bergamot and lemon, two quintessential citrus oils sourced from southern Italy — Calabrian bergamot with its green, floral brightness, and Sicilian lemon prized for its effervescent zest. Bergamot’s complex composition includes linalyl acetate, limonene, and bergapten, which give the fragrance both sparkle and softness, its slightly floral nuance tempering the lemon’s sharp acidity. The combination evokes the impression of fresh linens warmed by sunlight, their brightness perfectly balanced to avoid harshness. Interwoven through this freshness is the sweet, honeyed whisper of neroli, the precious distillation of bitter orange blossoms from the orchards of Tunisia. Neroli’s high linalool and nerolidol content lends a soft, waxy luminosity, bridging citrus to flower, light to warmth.

Then comes cananga, the namesake of the perfume — Cananga odorata, the tropical tree native to the Philippines and Indonesia. Its fragrance is velvety and golden, recalling both jasmine and custard, but darker, more sensual, and slightly leathery. Steam-distilled directly from the tree’s yellow blossoms, cananga oil contains benzyl acetate, p-cresyl methyl ether, and methyl benzoate, which together create its unique creamy, floral-animalic tone. Compared to ylang-ylang “extra” — the highest grade obtained from the same tree — cananga’s scent is deeper and earthier, less refined but richer in character, as if the tropical sun itself had melted into the petals. Guerlain’s inclusion of this note gives Cananga Blanc its dual personality: purity touched by sensual warmth, exoticism tamed by elegance.

The heart of the fragrance unfolds with bitter almond, jasmine, and ylang-ylang. The almond accord is both gourmand and nostalgic — created using benzaldehyde, which imparts the familiar aroma of marzipan and cherry pits. Its slight bitterness counterbalances the lush sweetness of the florals. Jasmine, likely of the Grasse or Egyptian variety, adds narcotic depth, its indoles and benzyl alcohols bringing both radiance and animalic warmth. When combined with the creamy, banana-like sweetness of ylang-ylang — itself derived from the same Cananga tree, but from a different distillation — the perfume blossoms into a soft, buttery floral cloud. The natural indolic tones are refined by gentle synthetics, ensuring that the floral richness remains enveloping yet transparent, never cloying.

As the scent settles, the orris root emerges, lending a powdery sophistication that feels like the faint trace of face powder on silk gloves. Extracted from aged rhizomes of the iris pallida of Tuscany, orris butter contains ionones and irones, which give it its violet-like, suede texture. It anchors the perfume with elegance, transforming the earlier florals into something timeless and tactile. Finally, musk — originally of animal origin but now recreated synthetically — brings a clean, sensual finish. Modern musks such as galaxolide and muscone replicate the warmth of skin freshly bathed, their diffusive smoothness enhancing the natural materials without overpowering them.

Smelled as a whole, Cananga Blanc feels like a soft white veil scented by sunlight and blossoms — citrus brightness fading into the creamy heart of tropical flowers, then settling into a whisper of powder and skin. The interplay of natural absolutes and synthetics gives the perfume its dual magic: the authentic texture of real petals and the luminescent clarity of an idealized dream. It is both delicate and enduring, like the lingering fragrance of white blooms carried on a warm evening breeze.

Bottles:

It was a perfume that was available in the carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in 1903.

Guerlain's 2014 Holiday Beauty Collection

For the 2014 Holiday Beauty Collection, Guerlain returned to one of its most emblematic design motifs with the gilded bowtie flacon, now featured in a limited edition shimmer powder. Aptly themed A Night at the Opera, this collection evokes the grandeur and drama of the theater, drawing inspiration from the opulent décor, lighting, and elegance of classical opera houses. The bowtie motif, known as Coque D’Or, is rendered in a luminous gilded finish that catches the light like a finely polished stage prop, immediately conveying luxury, sophistication, and timeless artistry.

This limited edition shimmer powder sits at the center of the collection, its presentation reflecting the meticulous attention to detail that Guerlain has long been celebrated for. The gleaming bowtie on the flacon is not merely decorative—it signals the House’s historical mastery of design, connecting each product to Guerlain’s heritage of elegance and theatricality. The powder itself promises a delicate shimmer, a subtle interplay of light across the skin reminiscent of the glittering chandeliers and gilded balconies of a grand opera hall.

In addition to the shimmer powder, the A Night at the Opera line features several other exclusive creations, each bearing the iconic Coque D’Or bowtie. Collectively, the collection is both a tribute to Guerlain’s storied past and a celebration of the festive season, combining visual grandeur with luxurious formulas designed to enchant and delight. The gilded bowtie flacon, in particular, transforms an everyday beauty ritual into an experience steeped in theatrical elegance and refined artistry.

'Coque d'Or' Iridescent Perfumed Powder (Limited Edition)

Graceful and feather-light, Guerlain Coque d'Or Iridescent Perfumed Powder is a subtle glitter for body and hair. For the first time since its creation, Guerlain has reproduced the original bottle and reinterpreted it in gold-lacquered glass. With a mere press of the bulb, the twirling, airy powder covers the hair and décolleté in a delicate sparkling veil. It's subtly scented with Coque d'Or's legendary chypre notes, recomposed in an exclusive variation.


Notes: bergamot, lavender, iris, rose and patchouli.

'Meteorites' Perles d'Etoile (Limited Edition)

Guerlain Meteorites Perles d'Etoile are light-revealing pearls of powder. The legendary pearls are available in a blend of six light and radiant tones specially designed to enhance your complexion after nightfall under the lights of evening. Its fragrant note of violet adds a light scent while a shimmering finish illuminates your complexion. It comes in a goldtone container with the famous bow inspired by Coque d'Or sculpted on the lid.





'Rouge G de Guerlain - 820 Rouge Parade' Jewel Lipstick Compact (Limited Edition)


Rouge G de Guerlain 820 Rouge Parade is a pure, French-style satin-finish bright red shade for gala evenings—luminous and distinctively elegant. Ready to go out, the exceptional lip color is adorned in red lacquer set off with a golden charm and mechanism. It's the shade worn by Natalia Vodianova in the campaign visual, attracting every eye from her balcony.

'A Night at the Opera' Eyeshadow Duo

Guerlain’s Duo Eyeshadow palettes feature two stunning colors that work off each other to give your eyes a gorgeous glow. One hue is a pure matte and the other is a luminous veil with a glittering or metallic finish. Simply glide on the matte then layer the veil on top, or wear one at a time to create a look that’s yours alone.













'Petrouchka' Eye & Blush Palette (Limited Edition)

Petrouchka Eye and Blush Palette by Guerlain is filled with makeup essentials for your eyes and cheeks cleverly combined in a golden case adorned with a flat bow in red fabric, which can easily be transformed into a bracelet or hair tie. The limited-edition palette is filled with sophisticated hues, including five finely iridescent eyeshadow shades and four matte or pearlescent blushes.

















'A Night at the Opera - Maxi Shine' Gloss d'Enfer Lip Gloss

Maxi Shine Gloss d'Enfer guarantees lips a shimmering, radiant and plumping finish. Maxi Shine's oil composition creates a moisturizing barrier to ensure an intense softness. Additionally, each shade presents varying degrees of coverage and pigment intensity. The perfect partner for a desirable, appealing smile, Maxi Shine offers tailor-made effects for beautifully enhanced lips

'A Night at the Opera' Nail Lacquer

Guerlain's newest nail lacquers are indispensable allies for accomplished femininity. The ultra-vibrant shades incorporate adhesive resins to offer a perfectly even sheen that lasts for days. Using each shade's extra-flat and widened brush, the easy-to-use formula imparts a shiny, daring and immaculate finish.

'Shalimar' Eau de Parfum Set

To celebrate the season, Guerlain invites you into its fairy universe to discover an enchanted Christmas tree, where every decoration is a wink to the House symbols.

Inspired by the passionate love story between an emperor and an Indian princess, Shalimar, which means “temple of love” in Sanskrit, symbolizes the promise of eternal love forevermore. It’s a fragrance of desire. With its smoldering and slightly impertinent character, the star oriental fragrance in perfumery embodies skin-caressing sensuality with a hint of the forbidden.
Set includes:
- Eau de Parfum (1.7 oz.)
- Eau de Parfum Purse Spray (0.5 oz.)

La Ruche Imperiale - 160 Year Bee Bottle Anniversary c2013

La Ruche Impériale stands as a luminous tribute to Guerlain’s legendary Abeille flacon, created in 2013 to commemorate the 160th anniversary of the bee bottle. As part of this extraordinary series, Guerlain invited nine Maîtres d’art from the Institut National des Métiers d’Art of France, granting them complete artistic freedom to create unique interpretations centered around a one-litre bee bottle. The results are not merely decorative objects but singular masterpieces, reflecting the highest level of craftsmanship and creativity in contemporary French artistry.

This particular creation, La Ruche Impériale (“The Imperial Hive”), was designed by Laurent Nogues, a Maître d’art and founder of the Creanog studio, widely recognized as a leading authority in embossing, hot-stamping, and paper insets. Nogues transformed paper into an artistic medium, crafting a honeycomb-shaped case that unfolds to reveal layers of intricate embossed detail. The six panels of the case are lined with pristine white paper, each panel etched with a tone-on-tone honeycomb motif, creating an almost architectural geometry. At the center, the optical illusion of the legendary bee bottle appears, a subtle yet striking nod to Guerlain’s iconic heritage.

The embossing technique employed is singular, developed specifically for this project to achieve complex geometry and an extraordinary interplay of light. Each fold and facet catches the light differently, producing endless variations in tone and shadow that emphasize both the precision and artistry of the design. Beyond its visual beauty, the piece embodies Guerlain’s celebration of innovation, tradition, and the passing of artisanal knowledge: the proceeds of these creations support the “Maîtres d’art – Students” initiative, which ensures the continuation of these rare skills through mentorship and apprenticeship overseen by the Institut National des Métiers d’Art (INMA). La Ruche Impériale is thus both a dazzling objet d’art and a living testament to the fusion of craft, history, and creativity that defines Guerlain.

 

La Cage aux Oiseaux et aux Abeilles - 160 Year Bee Bottle Anniversary c2013

La Cage aux Oiseaux et aux Abeilles is a breathtaking creation from Guerlain’s 2013 series celebrating the 160th anniversary of the Abeille flacon, or bee bottle. As part of this exceptional project, Guerlain commissioned nine Maîtres d’art from the Institut National des Métiers d’Art of France, granting each artist full freedom to interpret the iconic one-litre bee bottle. The resulting pieces are singular masterpieces, combining technical mastery, imagination, and the timeless elegance of French craftsmanship.

This particular presentation, La Cage aux Oiseaux et aux Abeilles (“The Bird and Bee Cage”), was crafted by Nelly Saunier, a distinguished plumassier of the 2008 class of Maîtres d’art. Saunier’s expertise in ornamental plumes and feather artistry elevates this work into a realm of almost surreal beauty. The piece takes the form of the iconic Abeille bottle but is enveloped in a delicate golden cage, within which a mesmerizing feather marquetry is perfectly inlaid into precisely chiselled metal cutouts. The interplay of matte and iridescent feathers, along with subtle contrasts of light and shadow, creates a living sense of movement and depth, as though the feathers themselves might flutter at any moment.

Peering through the openwork dome, one discovers a small silky, feathery nest, carefully cradling the bee bottle as if it were a delicate bird poised to take flight. The visual poetry of the composition evokes both nature and elegance, symbolizing freedom, fragility, and the precious care with which Guerlain approaches its art. Beyond its aesthetic allure, the piece also embodies Guerlain’s commitment to sustaining artisanal excellence: the proceeds from this creation support the “Maîtres d’art – Students” project, which ensures that these rare, exceptional skills continue to be passed down to future generations under the guidance of the Institut National des Métiers d’Art (INMA). The result is a work that is simultaneously a celebration of heritage, technical mastery, and the imagination of its creator—a true jewel of modern perfumery artistry.

 

Bouquet du la Sierra Morena c1834

Bouquet de la Sierra Morena was introduced by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain in 1834, only six years after the founding of his Parisian perfume house. The name, written in French as Bouquet de la Sierra Morena (pronounced Boo-kay duh lah See-air-rah Mor-eh-nah), translates to “Bouquet of the Sierra Morena,” referencing the rugged mountain range in southern Spain. The Sierra Morena was romanticized in 19th-century European culture as a place of wild natural beauty, sun-warmed herbs, flowering shrubs, and dramatic landscapes. By choosing this name, Guerlain was not merely marketing a fragrance but invoking an exotic, picturesque destination that spoke to the era’s fascination with travel, nature, and the poetry of untamed landscapes.

The imagery conjured by the name is rich and layered: a “bouquet” suggests a carefully gathered arrangement of blossoms, while the Sierra Morena calls to mind wild meadows, aromatic herbs, and perhaps even the resinous scent of pine carried on mountain air. To a Parisian woman in 1834, the name alone would have evoked feelings of romantic escapism and natural vitality, an olfactory journey beyond the city’s confines. This was the Romantic era in full bloom, an age when artists, writers, and composers drew inspiration from nature, folklore, and faraway lands. Fashion in the 1830s reflected this sensibility, with flowing gowns, floral embellishments, and hairstyles inspired by natural motifs—all trends that harmonized with perfumes bearing evocative, pastoral names.

At the time of its release, perfumes often followed established formulas popularized across Europe. Variants titled Bouquet de la Sierra Morena, Bouquet de Sierra Nevada, or Bouquet des Fleurs du Val d’Andorre appeared in perfumeries well into the late 19th century, signaling that this structure was widely admired. Recipes for these perfumes circulated in professional formularies, offering perfumers a template to adapt and personalize. Early interpretations leaned on natural extractions—orange blossom, violet, rose, or herbal notes—layered with tinctures and infusions of aromatic plants. Guerlain’s version in 1834 was likely more refined and modernized, designed to distinguish itself through balance, harmony, and the finesse of composition.

By the close of the 19th century, the perfume industry was undergoing transformation with the rise of synthetic aroma chemicals like coumarin and vanillin. These innovations allowed perfumers to either replace costly natural extracts or amplify them in ways that were not possible before. In this context, Bouquet de la Sierra Morena represents an important transitional fragrance: rooted in the Romanticism and naturalism of early 19th-century perfumery, but eventually reinterpreted through the lens of scientific progress. Women of the time would have embraced its name and its composition as both familiar and aspirational—an everyday indulgence that carried with it the dream of wandering through a sunlit Spanish landscape, arms full of blossoms gathered from the wild.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Bouquet du la Sierra Morena is classified as an aromatic floral oriental (sometimes also described historically as an "amber fougère" fragrance.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, lemon balm, citron, neroli, geranium, verbena, lavender, cassie 
• Middle notes: rosemary, thyme, marigold, honey, jasmine, tuberose, rose, orange blossom, orris root, reseda, violet 
• Base notes: : juniper, myrtle, laurel, sumac, rosewood, musk, tolu balsam, vanillin, vanilla, ambergris, civet, styrax, coumarin, tonka bean, cistus

Scent Profile:

The perfume Bouquet de la Sierra Morena, classified as an aromatic floral oriental (sometimes described historically as an amber fougère), reveals itself layer by layer, like a journey across sunlit fields, Mediterranean hillsides, and exotic spice routes. Each note, both natural and enhanced by emerging synthetics of the period, plays its part in weaving a tapestry of scent that feels both luminous and deep, timeless yet rooted in its 19th-century origins.

The fragrance opens with a burst of bergamot, that quintessential Italian citrus from Calabria, prized for its balance of freshness and slight bitterness. Its natural compound linalyl acetate lends smoothness, while limonene provides sparkling brightness. Alongside it, Sicilian lemon contributes a sharper zest, its high citral content making it vivid and tart, balanced by the softer, mellower tones of citron, a fruit long cultivated in Mediterranean orchards for its perfumed rind.

A cooling wave of lemon balm (Melissa) introduces a green, herbaceous note, rich in citral and citronellal, evoking crushed leaves between the fingers. Verbena, with its sharper lemon-green brightness, harmonizes beautifully, lifting the citrus accord into something more aromatic.

Neroli, distilled from bitter orange blossoms in the groves of Tunisia or Morocco, brings a honeyed, green-floral touch through its linalool, nerolidol, and indole, adding delicacy and sophistication. Against this, lavender adds herbal sweetness, its coumarin-rich body bridging into the later heart, while geranium offers a rosy, minty facet through its natural geraniol and citronellol. Finally, cassie (acacia farnesiana), a note beloved in 19th-century perfumery, imparts powdery, violet-like warmth thanks to ionones and benzyl derivatives—an early whisper of the floral opulence to come.

As the citrus and herbs soften, the fragrance blooms into its floral-aromatic heart. Rosemary and thyme, both redolent of Mediterranean hillsides, bring resinous, camphoraceous tones—rosemary’s borneol and cineole offering clarity, thyme’s thymol lending spicy depth. These herbs frame the arrival of floral richness. Jasmine, sourced from Grasse or Egypt, breathes lush, narcotic sweetness through its indolic depth. Tuberose intensifies this white-flower opulence, creamy and heady, thanks to methyl benzoate and tuberose lactones. Orange blossom, again from the bitter orange tree, complements neroli with a sweeter, more voluptuous profile, while violet, full of ionones, lends powdery, candy-like tenderness.

Rose, likely Damascus or centifolia, gives its velvety, honeyed richness through natural phenylethyl alcohol and geraniol, tying the bouquet together. Marigold (tagetes) adds green pungency, balancing sweetness with sharp, fruity bitterness. Reseda (mignonette), a rare floral in perfumery, was beloved in the 19th century for its green, balsamic, honey-floral tone, softly linking to the honey note itself, golden and warm, with phenolic richness that gives depth. Orris root, the dried rhizome of iris from Tuscany, reveals its violet-like, buttery, and powdery luxury, rich in irones that enhance the softness of violet and cassie from the top.

As the heart fades, the base rises with a sensual and complex depth. Juniper gives its dry, gin-like sharpness, while myrtle and laurel evoke evergreen forests, spicy and green. Sumac, less common, brings a tart, resinous accent, and rosewood, a prized tropical hardwood, adds a rosy-spicy, woody tone rich in linalool. The foundation is built on musk, ambergris, and civet, the animalic trinity of classical perfumery. Natural musk (from the musk deer) radiates a velvety warmth, softened by early synthetic musks that perfumers began to explore by the late 19th century. Ambergris, rare and marine, gives salty-skin sensuality through ambroxide, while civet, with its powerful civetone, adds a warm, leathery undertone that deepens the florals.

The resinous warmth of tolu balsam and styrax contribute balsamic sweetness, their cinnamic and benzoic acids echoing honeyed facets from the heart. Cistus (labdanum) enhances the ambered richness with leathery, ambery depth. Coumarin, freshly isolated in 1868, adds hay-like softness, perfectly paired with tonka bean, its natural source, reinforcing the fougère connection. Finally, vanillin—a synthetic then gaining importance—underscores the natural vanilla absolute. Together, they create creamy, sweet gourmand warmth, marrying the exotic with the modern.

Smelled in full, Bouquet de la Sierra Morena is a perfume that begins with the sparkling freshness of a Mediterranean cologne, blooms into a lush floral garden edged with herbs, and settles into a resinous, ambery embrace warmed by musk and civet. The natural materials—Mediterranean herbs, French and North African florals, exotic balsams—speak of global trade and luxury. The synthetics—vanillin and coumarin—enhance, refine, and stabilize the natural beauty, pointing to a new future for perfumery.

In its time, this perfume would have been both familiar, echoing the bouquets popular across 19th-century Europe, and unique, its complex layering and sensual base placing it at the threshold of modern perfumery.

Bottles:

It was housed in the carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The fragrance Bouquet de la Sierra Morena demonstrated remarkable longevity, not only as a perfume but also in its transformation into other scented products. It remained in circulation at least until 1901, when records show it being marketed as a soap specifically to Spanish-speaking countries. This adaptation reflects both the enduring popularity of Guerlain’s early compositions and the house’s ability to respond to international tastes.

By the turn of the 20th century, soap had become an essential daily luxury, and perfumed soaps offered a way for consumers to experience a prestigious fragrance in a more accessible form. For Guerlain, extending the life of Bouquet de la Sierra Morena through soap production allowed the perfume to continue reaching audiences long after the original scent had fallen out of fashion in Paris. Its introduction to Spanish-speaking markets was also fitting, given the fragrance’s name and inspiration drawn from the landscapes of southern Spain. This ensured the scent resonated not only as a French creation but also as one that carried cultural and geographical familiarity for its audience.

The move highlights Guerlain’s adaptability at a time when perfumery was beginning to evolve rapidly with the arrival of modern synthetics and shifting tastes. By repurposing a beloved 19th-century formula into soap, Guerlain was able to preserve its legacy, extending the life of a fragrance that had once symbolized refinement and exotic allure. Its continued circulation underscores just how influential the composition had been—both as a perfume and as a testament to Guerlain’s early mastery in crafting scents that could transcend eras and formats.

 

Le Trouble d’Eugénie - 160 Year Bee Bottle Anniversary c2013

Le Trouble d’Eugénie was one of the most dramatic and emotionally charged artistic interpretations created in 2013 for Guerlain’s celebration of the 160th anniversary of the bee bottle. As part of this extraordinary project, nine Maîtres d’art were invited to reimagine the iconic one-litre Abeille flacon with complete creative freedom. Among them, Emmanuel Barrois, a glass architect of remarkable technical daring, offered a vision steeped in history, theatre, and metaphor with his creation Le Trouble d’Eugénie—translated as Eugénie’s Confusion.

Barrois, known for his ambitious architectural glass designs ranging from the Beijing Opera to the future canopy of Paris’s Forum des Halles, applied his mastery of light, reflection, and illusion to a more intimate scale. His piece stages a moment of pure tension: the perfume bottle is imagined as having been dropped, its liquid spilled onto an opaque black glass tray. Out of this imagined accident, crystal-clear splashes rise like frozen motion, creating forms that appear at once accidental and carefully sculpted. These fractured shapes, standing against the dark reflective base, evoke both chaos and beauty, capturing the fragility of an instant suspended in time.

 

The narrative is drawn from the historical figure of Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III, who was crowned in 1853—the very era in which Guerlain’s bee bottle was first conceived. The drama imagines Eugénie in the moments before her coronation: her pulse racing, her thoughts clouded, and her reflection distorted in a pool of spilled fragrance. The piece becomes both illusion and realism, a mise en abîme in glass that conjures the inner turmoil of a woman about to step into her imperial destiny.

In Barrois’s hands, the bee bottle is no longer simply a vessel for perfume but an architectural drama in miniature, embodying themes of fate, fragility, and the fleeting nature of beauty. The creation draws the viewer into a suspended moment—where perfume, history, and emotion merge—making Le Trouble d’Eugénie one of the most poetic and enigmatic tributes in Guerlain’s 2013 collection of masterpieces.