Ne M'Oubliez Pas 2015

Ne M’Oubliez Pas by Guerlain was launched in late September 2015 as a limited-edition fragrance for women—a creation steeped in history, emotion, and symbolism. The name, Ne M’Oubliez Pas (pronounced nuh moo-blee-ay pah), is French for “Do not forget me.” It is a phrase at once tender and commanding, evoking the timeless human desire for remembrance and connection. The name carries with it both nostalgia and intimacy—an invocation not to be forgotten, whispered like a plea between lovers or an echo of memory preserved in scent.

The title itself is drawn from Guerlain’s own heritage, referencing one of the house’s earliest lipstick lines from 1870, Ne M’Oubliez Pas, which holds the distinction of being the first modern lipstick sold in a tube. At the time, it was a revolutionary creation—both practical and luxurious—symbolizing femininity, self-expression, and allure. In naming the perfume after this historic product, Guerlain bridged two art forms—makeup and fragrance—while honoring its legendary Parisian address at 68, Champs-Élysées. Perfumer Thierry Wasser composed Ne M’Oubliez Pas as a tribute to this house of artistry and memory, capturing the spirit of Guerlain itself: at once rooted in tradition and forever forward-looking.

Launched in 2015, the perfume arrived during a time when perfumery was balancing heritage with innovation. The 2010s were marked by a wave of revivals—heritage houses reissuing or reinterpreting archival scents, while niche perfumery gained international acclaim for its daring compositions. Fashion reflected a similar mood: the late 2010s blended vintage romanticism with modern minimalism. There was an appreciation for craftsmanship, authenticity, and story-driven luxury—a return to meaning in an era saturated with mass production. Guerlain’s Ne M’Oubliez Pas embodied precisely that sensibility: it was not simply another fragrance launch, but a statement of legacy and identity.

The scent itself was described as oriental spicy woody—a composition both seductive and mysterious. It unfolds like a memory in motion, rich with warmth and shadow. Its oriental structure might feature spicy top notes—cinnamon, carnation and cumin—enlivening the senses, followed by a heart of soft florals or resinous accords, grounded by a base of amber, vanilla, and woods. The effect would be both enveloping and sophisticated, a scent that lingers like an unspoken promise. In olfactory terms, Ne M’Oubliez Pas interprets its name through depth and persistence: it is a perfume that refuses to fade quickly, one designed to be remembered long after its wearer has left the room.

Women encountering this fragrance in 2015 would have understood the title on several levels. Literally, it is a message of remembrance; emotionally, it resonates as an expression of individuality and presence. In a world increasingly transient and digital, Ne M’Oubliez Pas spoke of permanence—the enduring power of a scent to anchor memory. The name also conjures the imagery of the myosotis, or forget-me-not flower, a delicate bloom symbolizing eternal love and devotion. To wear a perfume called Ne M’Oubliez Pas was to embrace that sentiment: to leave behind an invisible trace of oneself in fragrance, to be unforgettable.

Within the broader fragrance landscape of 2015, Ne M’Oubliez Pas stood out for its romantic classicism. While many contemporary perfumes leaned toward minimalist, transparent formulas, Guerlain’s creation celebrated complexity and richness. Its oriental-spicy character harkened back to the great Guerlain perfumes of the past—Shalimar, L’Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit—yet it was reinterpreted through modern craftsmanship and balance. In doing so, Ne M’Oubliez Pas became more than a perfume; it became a dialogue between eras, a sensual declaration of memory and artistry, reminding the world—just as its name implores—do not forget me.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Ne M'Oubliez Pas is classified as a spicy woody oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: plum, cardamom, cumin
• Middle notes: immortelle, carnation, rose and cinnamon
• Base notes: patchouli, vanilla, moss, woodsy notes and ambergris accord

Scent Profile:

Ne M’Oubliez Pas by Guerlain unfolds like a rich, baroque tapestry—its scent layered with warmth, mystery, and emotional resonance. Classified as a spicy woody oriental, it is both modern and timeless, an embodiment of Guerlain’s heritage and its continuing dialogue between the natural and the imagined. Each ingredient tells a story, and together they compose a fragrant memory—complex, haunting, and impossible to forget.

The perfume opens with the luscious sweetness of plum, a note that immediately captures the senses with its velvety ripeness. This fruit accord, often created through a blend of natural absolutes and synthetics such as gamma-decalactone and ionones, gives a deep purple richness—a balance of juicy brightness and shadowed darkness. The use of ionones, molecules naturally present in violets, lends the plum a soft, powdery elegance that evokes the sensation of crushed petals on skin. Into this opulent fruitiness slips the spice of cardamom, most likely sourced from Guatemala, prized for its cool, camphorous clarity and its delicate contrast between citrus and balsamic warmth. Its primary aromatic compound, 1,8-cineole, contributes a brisk, aromatic lift, while terpinyl acetate provides sweetness and finesse. Alongside it, cumin adds a surprising human warmth—a touch of sensual skin-like muskiness arising from its aldehydic molecule cuminaldehyde. While it can be provocative, Guerlain’s masterful blending tempers cumin’s intensity, using it as a whisper of intimacy that gives life to the opening, a reminder of presence and closeness.

As the top notes settle, the fragrance reveals its opulent heart—where warmth and florals entwine in an intricate dance. The golden immortelle, or everlasting flower, radiates its distinctive scent of sun-dried hay, maple syrup, and honeyed tobacco. Native to Corsica, immortelle’s essential oil is rich in italidiones—unique ketones responsible for its balsamic, slightly caramelized warmth. It brings a sun-soaked dryness that perfectly contrasts the lushness of the plum and the coolness of cardamom. Carnation, spiced and clove-like due to its eugenol content, adds a classic floral spiciness reminiscent of vintage perfumery, lending structure and a nostalgic heartbeat to the composition. Rose, the eternal symbol of femininity, offers a soft, romantic glow—likely a blend of Bulgarian rose oil for its deep honeyed undertones and Turkish rose for its citrusy freshness. Naturally rich in citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, and geraniol, rose bridges the spicy and floral elements seamlessly, while traces of synthetic rose molecules such as damascones heighten its velvety texture and longevity. Finally, cinnamon curls through the heart like a red silk ribbon, uniting the warmth of immortelle and carnation with its rich sweetness. The cinnamaldehyde it contains provides both heat and depth, reminiscent of polished wood, warmth, and quiet opulence.

As the fragrance deepens, it rests upon a base as enduring as memory itself. Patchouli, most likely sourced from Indonesia, gives an earthy, woody resonance—its patchoulol and norpatchoulenol molecules contributing to the scent’s rounded, slightly damp character. Unlike the raw, smoky patchouli of the 1970s, this is refined and softened—smoothed by Guerlain’s signature Guerlinade touch. Vanilla, sourced from Madagascar, brings creamy sweetness through vanillin and p-hydroxybenzaldehyde, but its natural richness is amplified by synthetic vanillin and ethyl vanillin, which extend its warmth and silkiness. Together, they create a sensual accord that hums softly beneath the other notes. Oakmoss, or its modern, regulated synthetic re-creation, adds an earthy greenness—evoking forests and antique wood trunks lined with velvet. It lends the perfume both gravitas and a touch of nostalgia. The woody notes—likely a blend of cedar, sandalwood, and modern synthetics such as Iso E Super—provide both structure and air, giving the fragrance its elegant diffusion. Finally, the ambergris accord completes the composition: a blend of amber molecules such as ambroxan and Cetalox that replicate the marine, musky sweetness of true ambergris, lending warmth, sensuality, and extraordinary longevity.

Smelling Ne M’Oubliez Pas is like tracing a memory through scent—a progression from the sweetness of emotion to the depth of devotion. The fragrance moves from fruit and spice to warmth and shadow, mirroring the bittersweet pull of remembrance. It smells of memory preserved: of letters kept, of fabric scented with perfume, of fleeting presence made eternal. Each note seems to echo the phrase that inspired its name—Ne m’oubliez pas—a plea, a promise, and a perfume that, true to its name, refuses to be forgotten.

Bottle:

Ne M’Oubliez Pas was conceived not only as a fragrance but as a testament to Guerlain’s enduring artistry—a celebration of its olfactory heritage, craftsmanship, and Parisian elegance. Presented as a parfum extrait, the richest and most concentrated form of fragrance, it embodies the very essence of the Maison’s savoir-faire. For this limited edition, Guerlain chose to house the scent in its most emblematic vessel—the quadrilobe flacon, a design first introduced in 1908 and long reserved for the house’s most precious compositions. Its graceful silhouette, with its four-petaled stopper echoing the form of a clover, has become a timeless symbol of Guerlain’s refined aesthetic.

For this 2015 edition, the 125 ml flacon was meticulously finished with a deep purple baudruchage, a traditional sealing technique in which a fine silk thread and wax seal are hand-applied around the neck of the bottle to ensure both authenticity and luxury. The purple hue, long associated with nobility, mystery, and memory, perfectly reflects the character of Ne M’Oubliez Pas—a fragrance of emotion, allure, and permanence. This decorative detail was executed by the Dames de Table, the highly skilled artisans of Guerlain’s own ateliers, whose work represents one of the last remaining examples of true haute parfumerie craftsmanship in France. Each flacon, therefore, is not merely a container but a handmade object of art—its perfection achieved through patience, precision, and heritage techniques passed down through generations.

This exclusive edition was limited to just 500 pieces, each individually numbered and available only at Guerlain’s historic flagship boutique at 68, Champs-Élysées in Paris. The boutique itself, long regarded as a temple of French luxury, served as the natural stage for this creation—a place where fragrance, art, and memory converge. Priced at 500 €, the release represented both rarity and reverence: a fragrance designed for collectors, connoisseurs, and admirers of the house’s legacy.

In this edition, Ne M’Oubliez Pas became more than a perfume—it was an expression of identity, of Guerlain’s devotion to beauty in every detail. From the mastery of the Dames de Table to the subtle gleam of the purple seal, every element was crafted to embody the phrase that inspired its name: “Do not forget me.” The bottle stands as a quiet promise—an object of permanence in a fleeting world, destined to be remembered long after the scent within has faded from the skin.

Bouquet de Laurier Camphrier c1847

In 1847, Petit Courrier des Dames: Journal des Modes published an elegant notice on Guerlain’s latest olfactory innovation—Bouquet de Laurier Camphrier, a fragrance that drew upon a botanical marvel newly appreciated in Europe. The article begins by tracing the perfume’s exotic origins to the Laurus camphora, or camphor laurel, a tree native to Japan and first introduced to the West by the naturalist Engelbert Kaempfer. Belonging to the Lauraceae family, the camphor laurel was celebrated not only for its majestic growth and glossy evergreen leaves but also for the aromatic substances concealed within its wood and flowers. The writer carefully distinguishes it from the Dryobalanops camphora of Sumatra—a towering forest tree that also yields crystalline camphor, but in plate-like tears resembling mica. Though both share certain olfactory and botanical affinities, the Japanese laurel’s perfume was said to be far more refined, its scent luminous and pure rather than resinous and medicinal.

Unlike the traditional camphor distilled from the wood, Bouquet de Laurier Camphrier derived from an essence newly obtained by distilling the flowers alone—a novel technique in the mid-19th century. This floral distillation produced an ethereal and volatile essence, faintly tinged with the characteristic sharpness of camphor, yet distinguished by a liveliness and delicacy unknown to European perfumers. The discovery was credited to Madame de Lagrenée, who first presented the substance to Parisian society, and to M. Renard, a French envoy to China, who provided assurance of its authenticity and recent production in the Far East. Such international collaboration reflected the era’s growing fascination with exotic botanicals and the cross-cultural exchange of luxury materials that defined mid-19th-century perfumery.

The journal praised Guerlain for transforming this rare oriental extract into a fragrance of great distinction. His creative vision and technical mastery elevated the raw material beyond its novelty, shaping it into a perfume that was at once vivid, penetrating, and suavely sweet. The scent was described as unlike any known perfume—a refined tension between brisk clarity and soft sensuality. This contrast likely arose from the interplay of natural compounds such as borneol, cineole, and safrole, responsible for the camphoraceous coolness, balanced by floral terpenes that imparted sweetness and warmth. Guerlain’s art lay in tempering the volatile freshness with a harmonious roundness, crafting a perfume that captured both exotic vigor and Parisian sophistication.

The notice predicted that Bouquet de Laurier Camphrier would surpass in popularity the celebrated botanical perfumes then fashionable in European salons—Vétiver, Ayapana, Géranium, Patchouli, and Verveine de l’Inde—all of which Guerlain had already helped bring to prominence. Within this lineage, the Bouquet de Laurier Camphrier represented both innovation and continuity: a fresh expression of nature’s aromatic power filtered through the cultivated artistry of the perfumer’s hand. To the fashionable women of 1847, it offered not merely fragrance, but an emblem of modern curiosity and global refinement—an olfactory bridge between the mysteries of the Orient and the elegance of Paris.

La Petite Robe Noire Hair Mist c2014

La Petite Robe Noire Hair Mist by Guerlain, launched in 2014 and created by Thierry Wasser, captures the joyful, flirtatious spirit of the original perfume but reimagined in a delicate mist designed to scent and beautify the hair. More than a fragrance accessory, it is described by Guerlain as a woman’s “everyday secret weapon,” leaving an airy, scented trace wherever she moves—a whisper of elegance that lingers like the memory of silk brushing past the skin.

The scent opens with an effervescent sparkle, as if sunlight has struck the surface of a crystal flute filled with rosé champagne. The first impression is that of a tender floral melody—rose, jasmine, and orange blossom intertwine in a graceful dance. The rose, Guerlain’s eternal muse, radiates with a youthful freshness—its petals soft and dewy, recalling the cool of morning air. The jasmine, delicate yet luminous, lends a creamy, almost honeyed warmth, while orange blossom adds a golden sweetness touched with the brightness of Mediterranean sunshine. Together, they form a floral accord that is light, joyful, and effortlessly feminine.

Then comes the playful heart—a juicy medley of cherry, apple, and blackcurrant, enlivened by green notes that bring crispness and sparkle. The cherry, both tart and candied, recalls the gourmand signature of La Petite Robe Noire’s original Eau de Parfum, though softened here for the hair mist’s lighter form. The apple lends a bright, crunchy freshness, while the blackcurrant introduces a tangy, slightly musky fruitiness, rich in natural aroma molecules such as dimethyl sulfide and blackcurrant bud absolute’s ionones, which lend a natural leafy nuance. The subtle green notes amplify this liveliness, evoking the scent of crushed leaves and orchard air, keeping the sweetness playful rather than cloying.

As the fragrance settles, it drapes the hair in a soft, sensual base of white amber and white musks. The amber adds a gentle, resinous warmth—more like sunlight diffused through silk than heavy oriental amber—while white musks (modern synthetic compounds like galaxolide or helvetolide) wrap around the hair in a clean, velvety aura. These musks also serve a practical function: they cling beautifully to the hair’s keratin fibers, allowing the scent to diffuse subtly throughout the day with every movement. The result is a “halo effect”—the perfume’s radiance surrounding the wearer without overwhelming her.

In La Petite Robe Noire Hair Mist, Guerlain managed to reinterpret one of its modern icons into an ethereal, wearable gesture of luxury. Light enough for daily use yet unmistakably chic, it captures the essence of French femininity: effortless, romantic, and just a little mischievous.

From Guerlain:"Carried everywhere, I am your everyday secret weapon. Heads turn as I go past. I adorn the hair in a deliciously scented veil. I am La Petite Robe Noire hair mist. Fresh Floral. Fresh, delicate, swirling. In the first wink, a bouquet of rose, jasmine and orange blossom takes flight to a delicate melody. The second twirl takes place as cherry, apple and blackcurrant enter the stage, refreshed by explosive green notes. Finally, white amber temptations are revealed and a cloud of white musks envelops the ensemble in a cosy halo."

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral hair fragrance mist for women.

• Top notes: sour cherry and blackcurrant
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, orange blossom, and green notes
• Base notes: white musk and white amber

It is available in the following:

30 ml

Veritable Moelle de Boeuf

To nourish and beautify the hair, Guerlain introduced Véritable Moelle de Bœuf—a richly perfumed pomade formulated from beef marrow, long regarded as a natural remedy for strengthening and stimulating hair growth. In the 19th century, the use of animal fats and marrow was considered one of the most effective treatments for dry, brittle, or thinning hair. The marrow, gently melted and clarified, was believed to restore vitality to the scalp and impart a radiant sheen to the hair. Its dense, lipid-rich composition mimicked the scalp’s natural oils, replenishing moisture and protecting the strands from the effects of heat, sun, and frequent styling. Guerlain, ever the innovator, transformed this simple restorative into a refined cosmetic by perfuming it with a luxurious blend of essences and presenting it in an exquisite porcelain pot.

The base of the formula combined purified bone marrow, beef or veal fat, and hazelnut oil, creating a deeply emollient treatment. The marrow and fat provided the rich, conditioning body of the pomade—each laden with nourishing triglycerides and sterols that softened coarse hair and repaired dryness. Hazelnut oil, prized for its light, silky texture, lent balance to the heavier animal fats, helping the mixture absorb more easily while adding a gentle gloss. It also supplied vitamin E and essential fatty acids, both beneficial for maintaining scalp health and preventing breakage. To this unctuous base, Guerlain added Balsam of Peru and vanilla—not only for their warm, comforting aroma but also for their natural antiseptic and soothing properties, which helped calm irritation and imparted a faint golden tint to the blend.

Once perfumed, the pomade transcended the rustic simplicity of its ingredients. Guerlain’s perfumer would scent the clarified marrow with a selection of cinnamon, lavender, citronella, vetiver, and carnation essences. Each essence served a purpose: cinnamon’s mild stimulatory warmth was thought to encourage circulation to the scalp; lavender lent both a calming fragrance and a natural antibacterial quality; citronella added brightness and kept the preparation feeling fresh; vetiver grounded the composition with its earthy, woody depth; and carnation brought a hint of spicy floral sophistication. Together, they turned the utilitarian act of hair care into a sensory pleasure.

When applied, Véritable Moelle de Bœuf would leave the hair luxuriously soft and gleaming, enveloped in a subtle fragrance that evolved with the warmth of the body. The initial impression would be of creamy sweetness, tinged with the aromatic warmth of vanilla and balsam. As the hair moved, delicate wafts of lavender, spicy carnation, and smoky vetiver would rise, blending with the faint animalic richness of the marrow itself—a scent both comforting and slightly exotic.

The Véritable Moelle de Bœuf pomade was presented in a porcelain cosmetic box of exceptional craftsmanship, made by the porcelain and faience maker Deroche. The small round box, measuring 6.8 cm in diameter, was adorned with grisaille transfers depicting oxen, a refined nod to the product’s principal ingredient, and accented with gilded highlights that added an elegant luster to the surface. Deroche’s work was renowned for its precision and delicacy, qualities that perfectly complemented Guerlain’s luxurious vision.

This collaboration between Guerlain and Deroche exemplified the 19th-century union of art and utility—where even a simple hair pomade became an object of beauty. The fine porcelain, cool and smooth to the touch, protected the precious preparation within, while its decoration reflected the scientific sophistication and decorative refinement of the era. In such a vessel, Guerlain’s Véritable Moelle de Bœuf was not merely a cosmetic; it was a testament to the harmony between French perfumery, craftsmanship, and design.

In the boudoirs of fashionable women, Véritable Moelle de Bœuf stood not merely as a hair treatment, but as a symbol of refinement—transforming a humble apothecary remedy into a luxurious ritual of care and scent.

Flacon Carre Plat Ruspini c1830

Ruspini’s Elixir for the Teeth and Gums by Guerlain, introduced around 1830, was presented in the elegant Flacon Carré Plat, a flat, square-shaped glass bottle typical of early Guerlain pharmacy and cosmetic preparations. The elixir itself was a refined blend rooted in 18th-century dental science and perfumery, formulated to strengthen the gums, freshen the breath, and soothe toothaches. Its composition included the root of Florentine iris—long valued for its delicate violet-like aroma and mild astringency—combined with cloves, known for their antiseptic and analgesic qualities. These were infused in rectified spirit, preserving the aromatic essence while providing a cooling, cleansing effect. The addition of ambergris lent a smooth, luxurious undertone, while camphor added a sharp, medicinal freshness. The ingredients were left to macerate for fourteen days, resulting in a richly scented elixir used both as a cosmetic and therapeutic dentifrice.

The scent of the elixir would have been distinctive—a mingling of warm spice, clean spirit, floral powderiness, and the subtle animalic depth of ambergris—a combination that was as elegant as it was functional. Its use would leave a pleasantly perfumed breath and a sensation of invigorated gums, consistent with Guerlain’s reputation for transforming everyday hygiene into a ritual of refinement.

The formula originated with Chevalier Bartholomew Ruspini (1730–1813), a noted Italian-born surgeon-dentist who established his practice in London and earned the royal appointment as Surgeon-Dentist to the Prince of Wales (later King George IV). By 1801, Ruspini’s name had become synonymous with oral care innovations such as his Dentifrice Powder, Tincture for beautifying and preserving the teeth and gums, and his Balsamic Styptic for stopping bleeding. The Elixir, later produced by Guerlain, drew from this prestigious lineage. Ruspini had claimed a surgical diploma from Bergamo and trained under Monsieur Catalan, a renowned Parisian surgeon-dentist. His legacy continued through his three sons, who all followed him into the dental profession, perpetuating the Ruspini name in early modern dentistry.

Thus, Guerlain’s Ruspini’s Elixir for the Teeth and Gums represented a meeting of medical craftsmanship and French perfumery, embodying both scientific efficacy and luxury presentation—a testament to the brand’s early role in bridging beauty, health, and elegant self-care.

Shalimar - Blue Ottoman Flacon 2011

In 2011, Guerlain unveiled one of its most extraordinary collector’s pieces — the Shalimar Edition Grand Luxe, a creation that fused perfume, art, and French luxury at its highest expression. This exceptional edition was presented during “Les Journées Particulières”, an event organized by LVMH on October 15–16, 2011, during which the public was invited behind the doors of the Guerlain universe to discover the alchemy of its craftsmanship. There, amid Baccarat crystal gleaming under soft light, perfumer Thierry Wasser, makeup artistic director Olivier Échaudemaison, and fragrance creative director Sylvaine Delacourte introduced a masterpiece that paid homage to nearly a century of Shalimar’s legend.

The Edition Grand Luxe was presented in an opulent leather coffret, embossed in gold and lined with the kind of care reserved for fine jewelry. Nestled inside was an imposing Baccarat crystal flacon containing 490 ml of pure extrait de parfum — the richest concentration of Shalimar, and one of the largest ever produced for private collectors. The bottle, in a deep cobalt hue known as “Bleu Ottoman,” radiated a mysterious glow — the same shade of blue once favored in Ottoman ceramics and palace interiors, symbolic of nobility, spirituality, and infinite desire. Its quadrilobed stopper, a historic design associated with Guerlain’s most prestigious presentations, crowned the bottle like a crystal sculpture, balancing geometric precision with liquid sensuality. A gilded gold label, applied to one face of the bottle, caught the light like a piece of antique jewelry.

Standing 18 cm (approximately 7 inches) tall, the Baccarat bottle commanded attention with its sheer scale and craftsmanship. Each example was hand-numbered, and only 30 copies were produced worldwide — making this not merely a perfume, but an objet d’art, representing the rarest echelon of the Shalimar lineage. The retail price was €6,500, which at the 2011 exchange rate equaled roughly $8,900 USD, placing it among the most expensive perfume editions of its time.

While the juice inside remained true to Jacques Guerlain’s 1925 original — that immortal symphony of bergamot, iris, vanilla, opoponax, and tonka — the presentation elevated it to a near-mythic status. The intensity of the extrait, housed in the rich cobalt crystal, seemed to glow from within — the deep blue amplifying the golden hues of the perfume itself, a visual metaphor for passion tempered by serenity. The scent, when dabbed onto the skin, released its familiar cascade of citrus and smoky balsamic notes, but the experience felt heightened — as though the flacon’s visual majesty had imbued the fragrance with a deeper, more opulent aura.

The Shalimar Edition Grand Luxe was not simply a perfume; it was Guerlain’s declaration of devotion to its heritage, a tangible expression of craftsmanship that bridged centuries. Through the luminous interplay of Baccarat crystal, Ottoman blue, and liquid gold, Guerlain reaffirmed Shalimar’s place not only as the house’s crown jewel, but as one of the most iconic perfumes in the world — an enduring symbol of romance, artistry, and the eternal allure of luxury.

Guerlilas by Guerlain c1930

Guerlilas, launched in 1930 by Jean-Jacques Guerlain, takes its name from the lilac flower—lilas in French—blended seamlessly with the Guerlain signature, evoking both floral beauty and the house’s heritage. Pronounced "Gair-lee-lah", the name suggests elegance, delicacy, and the ephemeral charm of early spring blooms. It conjures images of softly shaded lilac gardens, their violet and lavender petals unfurling in gentle sunlight, and evokes emotions of nostalgia, romance, and quiet sophistication.

The perfume emerged during a transformative period in the early 1930s, as the elegance of the late Art Deco era met the economic challenges of the Great Depression. Women’s fashions were becoming more streamlined, with softer silhouettes replacing the extreme flapper styles of the 1920s, while accessories and perfumes retained a sense of luxury and refinement. Perfumery itself was exploring new blends, layering floral compositions with subtle spices, woods, and aldehydes, creating fragrances that balanced classic beauty with modern sensibilities. In this context, Guerlilas’ lilac-centered composition offered a fresh and distinctive choice, simultaneously delicate, powdery, and unmistakably Guerlain in character.

For women of the period, a fragrance named Guerlilas would have represented both the familiarity of a beloved floral and the sophistication of the house’s signature style. Lilac, with its soft, slightly powdery aroma, was associated with youth, innocence, and refined femininity—qualities that resonated strongly in a time of social and cultural transition. Interpreted in scent, Guerlilas would have felt airy, gentle, and luminous at the top, with the lilac accord blooming over the familiar warmth of the Guerlinade—the blend of tonka, vanilla, and soft musks that underpins many Guerlain classics.

Among other fragrances on the market, Guerlilas was distinctive in its focus on lilac, a note less commonly isolated in perfumery at the time. While floral perfumes were widespread, the combination of lilac’s delicate greenness with Guerlain’s rich, powdery base accord created a nuanced, elegant fragrance that stood apart from both heavier roses and more linear florals. Guerlilas was thus a testament to Guerlain’s artistry: a fragrance that celebrated a singular flower while enveloping it in the luxurious, unmistakable signature of the house.

 

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Guerlilas by Guerlain is classified as a floral fragrance for women featuring beautiful lilac notes over the Guerlinade accord.

• Top notes: lilac, aldehydes, bergamot, orange blossom
• Middle notes: almond, lilac, rose, jasmine, heliotrope, lily of the valley, violet and Tonkin musk
• Base notes: ambergris, orris, vanilla, vetiver, civet, jasmine and musk

Recently, I was fortunate enough to obtain a sample of Guerlilas from my good friend, Alexandra Star, who curates an impressive collection of rare antique Guerlain treasures in her Etsy shop, Parfums de Paris. For those who would like to experience the well-blended floral sweetness of this long-discontinued gem, Alexandra’s shop is a wonderful place to explore—each piece offered there is a testament to her eye for beauty and passion for perfume history.

Scent Profile:

Guerlilas opens with the soft, ephemeral beauty of lilac, the star of the composition. The lilac note immediately suggests a sun-dappled spring garden, petals unfurling in delicate clusters, their aroma both powdery and slightly green. Lilac is notoriously difficult to extract naturally, so its presence often relies on a combination of natural absolutes and subtle synthetic enhancers that capture the flower’s fresh, lightly honeyed facets. The lilac is lifted by sparkling bergamot and aldehydes, which add a bright, luminous quality—bergamot providing a sunny, zesty citrus top note while aldehydes impart a crisp, slightly metallic shimmer that enhances the florals and gives the fragrance a modern, airy opening. Orange blossom softens this brightness, contributing a creamy, floral sweetness, balancing the citrus and highlighting lilac’s delicate charm.

At the heart, Guerlilas deepens into a layered floral bouquet. The lilac note returns, now fuller and intertwined with rose and jasmine, each bringing distinct qualities: the rose lends soft, velvety romance, while jasmine adds a creamy, indolic warmth. Violet contributes powdery nuance, while heliotrope adds a lightly almonded sweetness that tempers the florals and gives a comforting, almost gourmand lift. Lily of the valley brings a dewy, green freshness, mimicking springtime mornings, and almond introduces a nutty, slightly marzipan-like richness that enhances the heliotrope. The midsection is rounded by Tonkin musk, a soft, animalic musk that subtly supports the florals without overwhelming their airy quality. Together, these notes form a heart that is both nuanced and enveloping, floral yet powdery, sweet yet restrained.

The base of Guerlilas is rich and long-lasting, built on Guerlain’s signature Guerlinade accord. Ambergris lends an elusive marine-animalic warmth that is at once sensual and sophisticated, while civet adds a deeper, slightly animalic layer to anchor the fragrance. Vanilla and orris root contribute powdery, balsamic sweetness, enhancing the mid-floral softness and lending longevity. Vetiver introduces a smoky, earthy counterpoint, grounding the composition and giving it depth and structure. The base is further enriched by musk, which enhances the warmth and diffusive qualities, and a touch of jasmine that ties the heart and base seamlessly together, ensuring the lilac remains luminous even as the perfume settles.

What makes Guerlilas exceptional is the interplay of natural and synthetic elements. The synthetics—aldehydes, heliotrope enhancers, and musk—allow the delicate lilac and violet to shine in a way natural extracts alone might not achieve, giving the fragrance clarity, lift, and projection. The natural ingredients—jasmine, rose, orris, vetiver—provide authenticity, complexity, and richness, forming a lush foundation for the ethereal florals. Smelling Guerlilas is like walking through a spring garden where lilac dominates, yet each flower and soft woody note is perfectly in balance—a powdery, sophisticated, and distinctly Guerlain experience.

Scribner's Magazine, 1930:

"Guerlilas (lilac) and Guerlarose (rose), make most timely gifts. For what more in keeping with the present style than the discreet elegance of perfumes distilled from the flower itself? The purity of the scent remains absolutely unchanged."

Advertising & Selling, 1931:

"Guerlain has adapted a graceful silver fountain motif to both the flat bottle and the carton of L'Heure Bleue. In the category of cylinders, Guerlilas is encased in a magnificent pillar of black and silver in alternate horizontal bands which might be the work of Brancusi himself." 

 

Combat, 1955:

"Lilac - its green scent reeks of love and the suburbs. Guerlain has fixed its springtime message in 'Guerlilas' but, more often, it is asked to mask its ingenuity with perfidious extracts."

 

Bottles:

Presented in four different size ‘Guerlilas’ bottles (parfum) as well as the quadrilobe flacon (parfum) and was also offered in the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette).

Fate of the Fragrance:

Guerlilas was launched by Guerlain in 1930, joining the house’s celebrated line of floral fragrances. While the exact date of its discontinuation remains uncertain, records indicate that it was still being sold as late as 1961, suggesting a sustained appeal among fragrance enthusiasts. Interestingly, a 1934 advertisement in the Pittsburgh Press reported that both Guerlilas and Guerlarose had been discontinued, which may indicate regional or market-specific availability rather than a complete withdrawal from production.

This ambiguity reflects the way Guerlain managed its portfolio of scents in the early 20th century. Fragrances could be phased out gradually, limited to certain markets, or continue quietly in select boutiques even after formal “discontinuation.” Guerlilas’ longevity, however, attests to the enduring elegance of its lilac-centered floral composition and the timeless appeal of the Guerlinade accord, making it a noteworthy example of Guerlain’s craftsmanship during the transitional years of the 1930s.