Flacon Elixir c1909-1939

The Flacon Elixir (c.1909–1939) was a utilitarian yet carefully executed design, created exclusively to house Guerlain’s dental preparations. Most notably, it contained Élixir de Guerlain, an antiseptic dentifrice that occupied an important place in the house’s catalog as part of its dedication not only to beauty but also to hygiene and personal care. This dual focus reflects Guerlain’s broader vision during the early 20th century, when the company offered both luxury perfumes and practical apothecary items.

The bottle itself was distinguished by a sealing method unique to this product. Around the neck, a strip of paper in blue, black, and white—printed with the name Guerlain—was carefully wrapped, serving as both a hygienic safeguard and a branded detail. This seal was secured with a narrow black ribbon threaded through the space in the stopper, ensuring that the contents remained untouched until use. The presentation thus communicated both reliability and elegance, underscoring Guerlain’s ability to elevate even the most functional articles.

Manufactured by Pochet et du Courval, the bottle was produced in four moulds over its lifespan. Each bore an embossed marking on the base reading Guerlain Made in France, a practical identifier that also affirmed its authenticity. While less decorative than Guerlain’s perfume bottles, the Flacon Elixir was nevertheless a thoughtfully conceived vessel, one that reflected the house’s standards of quality and refinement.

Produced until 1939, the Flacon Elixir is now a rare example of Guerlain’s early ventures into hygienic products, representing a fascinating intersection between luxury branding and everyday health care. Today, surviving examples serve as important reminders of the breadth of Guerlain’s historical offerings and the artistry the house extended even to its most utilitarian designs.

Sizes:

• Mould # 14562 = 15cc/15ml/0.5 oz - 7cm/2.76" (1930-1939)
• Mould # 15053 = 83cc/83ml/2.81 oz - 11cm/4.33" (1930-1939)
• Mould # 12504 = 160cc/160ml/5.41 oz - 15.5cm/6.1" (1909-1939)
• Mould # 12640 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 19.5cm/7.68" (1910-1939)

Bottle:

Flacon Eau de Guerlain c1974-1993

The Flacon Eau de Guerlain (1974–1993) was a strikingly original design created by sculptor Robert Granai in 1973. Granai, who frequently drew inspiration from nature, history, and archaeology, conceived the bottle after studying primitive stone-age tools in the museum of Saint-Germain-en-Laye. In particular, he was captivated by hand-worked sandstone fishing net weights, whose irregular, rounded shapes and notched edges were both functional and evocative. This archaeological reference connects seamlessly with the fragrance’s theme, as the utilitarian tools were linked to water—an association that resonates with the very name Eau de Guerlain.

The resulting bottle is a sculptural work in itself: its clear glass body is rounded with softly irregular curves, featuring a deeply grooved central indentation that emphasizes both tactility and movement. This organic, stone-like quality gives the flacon an elemental character, as though it had been smoothed and shaped by time and water. The design captures the spirit of Granai’s artistic approach, where everyday or ancient objects were elevated into refined, modern forms.

Fitted with a matching gilded screw cap, the bottle was dedicated exclusively to Eau de Guerlain and was never repurposed for other fragrances. Its production was undertaken by several glassmakers: Pochet et du Courval created four moulds, while Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres contributed two, ensuring both technical precision and consistency in this unusual design.

Produced for nearly two decades, the Flacon Eau de Guerlain remains one of the house’s most distinctive modern presentations—a bottle that bridges the worlds of art, history, and perfumery while perfectly embodying the elemental freshness of the fragrance it contained.

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval:

• Mould #23256 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (1982)
• Mould #23258 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 16cm/6.3" (1982) 
• Mould # 21043 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 18cm/7.09" 
• Mould #7 = 1 liter/1000ml - 21cm/8.27"

Gold screw stopper with "Eau de Guerlain" on the top.

Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres:

• Mould #52105 (plan # 66490) = 125ml, base engraved "SGD"  (1973)
• Mould # 52106 (plan # 66491) = 250ml, base engraved "Bottle Made in France -  Guerlain - Copyright 1973 - SHD" (1973)

Bottles:

 

Flacon de Voyage (Travel Bottle) c1955-2002

The Flacon de Voyage (Travel Bottle), produced between 1955 and 2002, was originally introduced to house Eau de Cologne Ode. Its functional yet elegant design quickly proved versatile, and by the late 1950s it had been adopted as the standard presentation for Guerlain’s perfumed eaux de cologne in 100cc and 200cc formats. In 1959, the 200cc size became the definitive standard, solidifying the flacon’s role as a practical and recognizable part of Guerlain’s product line, holding eaux de cologne, eaux de toilette, eaux lustrale and lotion vegetales.

The bottle’s clean lines and durable construction were well-suited for frequent handling, making it ideal for travel, as its name suggests. Produced by Pochet et du Courval, five separate moulds were created over its production span, ensuring consistency across large-scale manufacture. Later, Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres took over, producing a single mould that continued the bottle’s legacy.

Packaging for the Flacon de Voyage evolved alongside Guerlain’s broader branding strategies. The earliest versions were presented in blue boxes accented with bands, a design that emphasized freshness and utility. Over time, this was replaced with a more streamlined white box, reflecting mid-century and later minimalist aesthetics while maintaining a sense of refinement.

Serving Guerlain for nearly half a century, the Flacon de Voyage represents both continuity and adaptability within the house’s history. It bridges the gap between practicality and luxury, offering consumers a reliable presentation for Guerlain’s eaux de cologne while embodying the timeless elegance associated with the brand.

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval:

• Mould #19024 = 50cc/50ml/1.7 oz - (1962)
• Mould #18149 = 100cc/100ml/3.4 oz - (1955)
• Mould #18150 = 200cc/200ml/6.7 oz - 12,8cm (1955)
• Mould #19469 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - (1965)
• Mould #19746 = 1 liter/1000ml - (1967)

Bottles had either smooth or ridged gold screw tops with white ring, later with black ring.

Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres:

• Mould #4970 (plan #36088) = 100ml (1981-1996) base engraved: "Guerlain Paris SGD  Bottle Made in France."

Eau de Colognes:

• Atuana
• Cachet Jaune
• Chamade (in 1969)
• Chant d'Aromes (in 1962)
• Chypre 53
• Fleur de Feu
• Jicky
• L'Heure Bleue
• Liu
• Mitsouko
• Ode
• Shalimar
• Sous le Vent
• Vetiver (in 1959)
• Vol de Nuit

Eau de Toilettes:

• Eau de Cologne Imperiale
• Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat
• Eau de Lavande 
• Eau de Verveine

Lotion Vegetales:

• Jasmin
• Jicky
• L'Heure Bleue
• Mitsouko
• Mouchoir de Monsieur
• Shalimar

After Shave:

• Vetiver (in 1959)
• Habit Rouge (in 1965)

Flacon de Guerre (War Time Edition) c1938-1945

The Flacon de Guerre (War Time Edition), produced between 1938 and 1945, was Guerlain’s pragmatic solution to the challenges posed by World War II. Made of clear glass, this vessel was nicknamed the “war bottle” because it became the standard container for exporting Guerlain perfumes during the conflict. Unlike Guerlain’s specialized and often elaborate flacons of earlier decades, the Flacon de Guerre was created as a uniform, practical option that could be adapted across multiple fragrances. Pochet et du Courval manufactured the bottle in seven mould sizes—10cc, 20cc, 30cc, 40cc, 82cc, 125cc, 250cc, and 500cc—allowing Guerlain to maintain production despite the extraordinary limitations of the time.

The necessity for such a standardized bottle arose from wartime restrictions and rationing. Access to specialty glass, decorative finishes, and even skilled glassmakers was limited, as many glass houses were appropriated for wartime production or disrupted by the Nazi occupation. By employing a simple, multipurpose flacon, Guerlain could continue distributing its perfumes while navigating these constraints.

The presentation was further simplified with paper labels printed in stark black and white, accented only by the iconic Marly horse in red. Labels were tailored in five proportional sizes, ranging from 2 cm x 1.2 cm for the smallest 10cc and 20cc bottles, up to 5 cm x 2.8 cm for the 250cc version. This pared-down aesthetic was a direct reflection of the wartime climate, when luxury had to be expressed in restrained and resourceful ways. Today, the Flacon de Guerre stands as a historical reminder of Guerlain’s resilience and adaptability during one of the most difficult periods of the 20th century.

Sizes:

• 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz (1939-1945)
• 30cc/30ml/1 oz (1938-1945)
• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz (1938-1945)
• 82cc/82ml/2.77 oz - 10.3cm/4.06" (1938-1945)
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz (1938-1945)
• 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz (1938-1945)
• 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz (1938-1945)

Labels:

• 2cm x 1.2cm for the 10cc and 20 cc bottles
• 2.8cm x 1.6cm for the 30cc and 40 cc bottles
• 3.4cm x 1.9cm for the 82cc bottle
• 3.9cm x 2.2cm for the 125cc bottle
• 5cm x 2.8 cm for the 250cc bottle

Bottles:

Scents: 

• A Travers Champs
• Bouquet de Faunes
• Candide Effluve
• Champs Elysees
• Coque d'Or
• Fleur de Feu
• Fleur Qui Meurt
• Gardenia
• Gavotte
• Geranium d'Espagne
• Guerlilas
• Guerlinade
• Imperial Russe
• Jasmin
• Jasmiralda
• Jicky  
• Kadine
• Kriss
• L'Heure Bleue
• Lilas
• Liu
• Mitsouko
• Shalimar 
• Tsao-Kao
• Vague Souvenir
• Vega
• Verveine 

Flacon de Cave (Wine Decanter Flacon) c1830-1938

Guerlain’s Flacon de Cave, also referred to as the Flacon Chinois, is a quintessential example of early 19th- and early 20th-century perfume bottle design, in use from approximately 1830 to 1938. Typically produced in a generous 500 cc size, this bottle served as the standard vessel for a wide range of Guerlain products, including eaux de colognes and eaux de toilettes. Each bottle was accompanied by a label clearly indicating the product, reflecting both practicality and the house’s attention to presentation.

Crafted by the esteemed glassmaker Pochet et du Courval, the Flacon de Cave is characterized by its substantial form, often cylindrical or slightly tapered, reminiscent of traditional wine decanters, which may explain the alternate designation. Many examples were gilded, adding a touch of luxury and highlighting the elegance of the era’s commercial perfume containers. This bottle represents both the functional and decorative priorities of Guerlain during the period, combining a generous capacity with a refined aesthetic suitable for display in both domestic and professional settings.

Sizes:

• 500cc/500ml/16 oz - 21cm/8.27" (1830-1938), engraved with Femme Drapeaux on reverse until 1911 
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 16cm/6.3" (1911-1938)

Bottles:

Flacon Chauve Souris (The Bat) 1924

The Flacon Chauve-Souris (“The Bat”), introduced in 1924, is a masterful creation by Raymond Guerlain in collaboration with Baccarat, designed exclusively to hold the extrait of Shalimar. Its urn-shaped form, also referred to as “fan-shaped,” presents a bold yet elegant silhouette, with a fluted pedestal base that captures and refracts light, giving the crystal a sense of depth and vibrancy. The bottle was created for the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris in 1925, a seminal event that helped define the Art Deco movement, positioning Shalimar not just as a perfume but as an object of modern artistic expression. Over time, the Chauve-Souris bottle was also produced by several other esteemed glasshouses, including Pochet et du Courval, Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres, Cristal Nancy, Verreries Brosse, and Cristal Romesnil, further cementing its reputation as a design icon.

Typically, the bottle features clear crystal paired with a blue glass or blue-flashed stopper, inscribed with “Guerlain Paris” in gold lettering. A rare variation exists with a plain clear crystal stopper, making it highly sought after by collectors. Early examples (1925-1936.) of the bottle had stoppers drilled at the base to allow the cording used in the finishing process—known as baudruchage—to be threaded through and wrapped around the neck, sealing the bottle. The loose, twisted ends of the cording is then carefully combed out during barbichage, or "bearding" and then brushed out by hand by the "dames de table" in a process known as brossage which results in a fanciful, fluffy tassel. The "dames de table" have perfected this method so that it only takes them four minutes at a time to finish the baudruchage ritual of each Shalimar flacon. Bottles made after 1936 no longer required drilling in the stopper, though the cording and metal Guerlain “G” seal continued to be used to ensure the bottle remained securely closed.

The Chauve-Souris bottle was presented in a luxurious lilac flocked hinged box, simulating velvet, with a tailored compartment ensuring the bottle rested perfectly inside. Collectors can identify the provenance and value of a bottle by checking the acid stamps on the base from Baccarat, Cristal Nancy, or Cristal Romesnil, or the entwined HP mark of Pochet et du Courval. 

Cristal Nancy closed its doors in 1931 and was acquired by Baccarat so if your bottle is marked with the Cristal Nancy logo, your bottle was made between 1925 and 1931. Cristal Nancy made bottles in similar sizes and capacities to those of Baccarat.

A very rare early detail noted by Roja Dove was the subtle violet iridescence on some stoppers, originally achieved through a mercury firing process, though Guerlain later clarified that mercury was never used in their stopper production.

The Flacon Chauve-Souris represents both technical innovation and artistic elegance, combining Baccarat’s precision glassmaking, Guerlain’s visionary design, and meticulous finishing techniques. Its introduction at the 1925 Exposition, along with the elaborate finishing rituals and luxurious presentation, underscores the bottle’s role as both a functional vessel and an objet d’art, capturing the glamour, craftsmanship, and sophistication of early 20th-century French perfumery.

By 1997, Shalimar was available in the following Chauve Souris sizes: 

• 7.5ml = 7.4cm
• 15ml = 10.2cm
• 30ml = 14.9cm
• 60ml = 16.4cm
• 125ml = 20.8cm

By 1997,  the 250ml, 500ml, 1 liter and 1.5 liter (39cm) sizes were only available by special order.

Although Shalimar is often credited as the first perfume to feature a pedestal base paired with a colored glass stopper, this claim is somewhat of a myth. As a perfume historian, it is clear that a very similar bottle had already been produced for Talis by Bourjois, created by Cristalleries de Saint-Louis in 1912. This same design was later used for the 1922 fragrance Miss Kate, demonstrating that the combination of a pedestal and a colored stopper predated Shalimar by more than a decade. While Shalimar popularized the style and firmly associated it with Guerlain’s iconic aesthetic, the historical record shows that the concept was not entirely original to this fragrance.

Baccarat created six moulds:

• 20ml/0.676 oz - 10.5cm/4.13" 
• 30ml/1 oz - 14.3cm/5.63 
• 15.5cm/6/10"
• 16cm/6.29"
• 125ml/4.2 oz - 20cm/7.87" 
• 22.5cm/8.85"

Cristal Nancy made bottles in similar sizes and capacities to those of Baccarat.

Pochet et du Courval created thirteen moulds:

• Mould #13694 -'fan shaped bottle' (1924, cancelled)
• Mould #14161 -'fan shaped bottle' (1927)
• Mould #17147 = 20cc - 'Shalimar bottle with raised base' (1948)
• Mould #17148 = 30cc (1948, changed plan to 3100/F in 1979 to 30ml)
• Mould #18008 = 10cc (1954)
• Mould #19131 = 60cc (1962, changed plan to 3899/D in 1978 to 60ml)
• Mould #19353 = 16.5cc (blue 'plastemeri' stopper with "Guerlain Paris" in gold)
• Mould #20584 = 2.3ml sample bottle (1972)
• Mould #22078 = 1/2 oz/approx 15ml (1978)
• Mould #23187 = 1630cc (1982, changed plan to 6207/B in 1982 to 1.5 liters)
• Mould #23814 = 2ml sample bottle (1984)
• Mould #24445 = 80cc (1986)
• Mould #26066 = 7.5ml (1991)

Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres created four moulds:

• Mould #5260 (plan #70935) = 7.5ml - 1.98cm/0.74" 'fine base' (Apr 1981)
• Mould #5141 (plan #30611) = 7.5ml  - 1.98cm/0.74" 'wide base', engraved "Bottle Made in France" (Oct 1981- Apr 1995)
• Mould #5127 (plan #70566) = 10ml/0.388 oz - 8.2cm/3.23" wide base, engraved "Bottle Made in France Net Cont 1/3 fl oz" (1981 to 1984) 
• Mould #4896 (plan#70500)  = 15ml/0.5 oz - 9.3cm/3.66" wide base, engraved "Bottle Made in France" SGD "Net Cont 1/2 fl oz" (1981 to 1986). Modifications to mould #4896: size of base, engraving, capacity. 

Other manufacturers: 

• 7.5 ml/1.25 oz - 7.4 cm/2.91" (1991) 
• 10cc/10ml/0.388 oz - 8cm/3.15" (1954) 
• 16.5cc/0.558 oz - 9.3cm/3.66" (1964, changed in 1978 15ml) 
• 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz - 9.6cm/3.78" (1948) 
• 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 10cm/3.94" (1948, changed in 1979 30ml) 
• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 11.4cm/4.49" 60cc/60ml/2 oz - 15cm/5.91" (1962, changed in 1978 to 60ml) 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 18cm/7.09" 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 20.8cm/8.19" 
• Largest Parfum Bottle 50 oz - 15" tall (2001) - This size also used for factice.

Factice Bottles:

Guerlain’s Shalimar factice bottles are monumental display pieces created to showcase the fragrance in boutiques without containing actual perfume. The large factice, produced by Pochet et du Courval, stands an impressive 15.5 inches tall and 11 inches wide, with a foot measuring 7 inches across, making it a commanding presence on any display. Its design faithfully mirrors the iconic Shalimar bottle, allowing customers to appreciate the shape, proportions, and aesthetic details on a grand scale.

Even more striking is the giant factice, which rises to 17.5 inches tall, with a width of 12.5 inches and a depth of 5.25 inches. The interior of this colossal bottle is colored amber to simulate the appearance of the perfume, though it contains no liquid. Both factices served as visual merchandising tools, highlighting the elegance and luxurious design of Shalimar while protecting the precious fragrance itself. These oversized bottles exemplify Guerlain’s attention to presentation and marketing, transforming the perfume bottle into an object of spectacle and admiration.

Presentation Avion:

A particularly rare and fascinating variant of Guerlain’s packaging is the Presentation Avion (airplane transportation presentation), introduced around 1960 for Air France Paris–New York flights. This presentation was specifically designed to address the challenges of air travel, minimizing the risk of leakage while maintaining an elegant display. Unlike traditional boxes in which the bottle lay flat, the Presentation Avion featured a small plinth inside the box, allowing the perfume bottle to stand upright. The lid of the box then slipped over this plinth, creating a secure and protective cover for the bottle during transport.

In a further innovation, the stopper was not pre-inserted into the bottle but placed separately inside a tiny cardboard container included within the presentation, while the perfume itself was sealed with a cork covered in a thin plastic seal. This ensured the fragrance remained intact and unspilled, reflecting Guerlain’s meticulous attention to both practicality and luxury. Later editions of the presentation returned to the more typical layout, with the bottle resting in a cut-out within the box rather than on a plinth.

These Presentation Avion bottles were produced by both Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval, and collectors can identify them by the respective logos on the base, such as Baccarat’s symbol or Pochet’s entwined HP. This rare packaging not only demonstrates Guerlain’s innovative approach to fragrance presentation and travel solutions but also underscores the house’s dedication to combining elegance, function, and collectible appeal.

• 4 oz Baccarat bottle stands about 6" tall from base of bottle to top of cork (not including stopper)
• 2 oz Baccarat bottle stands about 4.75" tall from base of bottle to top of cork (not including stopper)
• 1 oz Baccarat bottle stands 3" tall from base of bottle to top of cork (not including stopper)

Flacon Chant D'Aromes c1962

The Flacon Chant d’Arômes, introduced in 1962, is a beautifully sculpted bottle created exclusively to hold the extrait of Chant d’Arômes. Produced by the renowned glassmaker Pochet et du Courval, this bottle is known as the “Grenadier” model, distinguished by its urn-like form resting upon a pedestal. The design incorporates a ruffled neck, adding a delicate sense of movement and elegance, and is further enhanced by an olive-green velvet ribbon tied around the neck, providing a tactile and visual contrast to the colorless pressed glass. One side of the bottle bears the fragrance name, elegantly titled, while the cylindrical stopper crowns the design with understated sophistication.

Over the years, production expanded to include Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres, demonstrating Guerlain’s dedication to precision and craftsmanship. Pochet et du Courval created six original molds for the bottle, while Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres produced a single mold, maintaining fidelity to the original design. The combination of these glassmakers ensured that the urn-shaped Flacon Chant d’Arômes retained its distinctive proportions, fine detailing, and high-quality finish across different production runs.

This bottle exemplifies Guerlain’s approach to perfume presentation during the early 1960s: sculptural and refined, yet functional and immediately recognizable. The urn silhouette, ruffled neck, and velvet detailing together evoke both classical elegance and mid-century refinement, creating a vessel that elevates the perfume it contains into an objet d’art. The Flacon Chant d’Arômes remains a celebrated example of Guerlain’s commitment to marrying artistry, luxury, and the unique identity of each fragrance.

The Flacon Chant d’Arômes bottles, like many of Guerlain’s extraits of this era, were all fitted with “plastemeri” stoppers—a practical yet ingenious design feature. These consist of small plastic cups that fit snugly over the ground glass stopper plugs. The plastemeri serve multiple purposes: they prevent the stoppers from becoming “frozen” or stuck over time, a common issue with glass-on-glass closures, and they also provide a more secure, stable fit, ensuring the stopper remains properly seated. This subtle innovation reflects Guerlain’s attention to both functionality and longevity, combining elegance with a practical solution that preserves the integrity of the bottle and protects the precious fragrance inside.

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval:

• Mould # 19111 = 58cc/58ml/1.96 oz - 15cm/5.91" (May 1962-Feb 1985)
• Mould #19135 = 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 12,5cm/4.92" (1962, changed in 1979, used until 1988)
• Mould #19146 = 120cc/120ml/4.06 oz - 19cm/7.48" (1962, changed in 1980, used until 1983)
• Mould #19223 = 15cc/15ml/0.5 oz - 10,3cm/4.06" (1963-1980). 15ml/0.5 oz updated edition in 1995 
• Mould # unknown = Factice bottle - 47cm/18.5", ground glass stopper, only a few were made, Smooth base engraved "Guerlain Made in France" or "Guerlain Paris Made in France."

Saint Gobain Desjonqueres:

• Mould #4491 (plan #22166) = 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 12,5cm/4.92" (Sept 1976)

 

Bottles: