Flacon Nahema c1980-1992

The Flacon Nahema, produced between 1980 and 1992, was created exclusively to hold the extrait of Nahema, one of Guerlain’s most dramatic rose-centered compositions. The bottle’s design reflects the symbolic and mystical character of the fragrance itself. Robert Granai, Guerlain’s artistic director, drew inspiration from the form of an alchemist’s flask, which is echoed in the graceful curve at the base of the bottle. A defining feature is the teardrop motif set within the body of the glass, representing the distilled essence of the perfume—its very quintessence—and serving as a visual metaphor for the emotion the fragrance was intended to evoke.

Production of the flacon was shared between two of France’s leading glassmakers: Pochet et du Courval, who manufactured seven moulds, and Saint-Gobain Desjonquères, who created one additional mould. Over its period of use, two specific bottle sizes became familiar to collectors, though they remain somewhat difficult to document formally. A 7.5ml bottle was produced and sold from March 1981 until September 1992, alongside a total of 51,912 bottles manufactured by Saint-Gobain. A second bottle, in the 15ml size, was available from March 1980 until September 1991.

By the autumn of 1992, the Nahema flacon was retired. The extrait was then transferred to the 7.5ml size of the classic quadrilobe-stopper bottle, which became its standard presentation through the mid-1990s. For collectors today, the Flacon Nahema represents both a rare design departure for Guerlain and a perfect marriage of symbolism and form, encapsulating the alchemy of a fragrance that was itself a bold and emotional creation.

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval:

Pochet produced seven moulds with necks for the "plastemeri" stopper. Bases of the bottles are sand engraved with "Copyright 78 - Bottle Made in France."

• Mould #22153 = 2.9cc sample bottle (Dec 1979)
• Mould # 22929 = 5cc sample bottle (April 1981)
• Mould # unknown = 7.5ml/0.25 oz - 8cm (1981-1992)
• Mould # unknown = 15ml /0.5 oz- 10.4 cm (1980-1991)
• Mould # 22155 = 30ml/1 oz - 13.4 cm (1979-1988)
• Mould # 22259 = 60ml/2 oz - 16.2 cm (1979-1985)
• Mould # 22261 = 120ml/4.06 oz - 20.2 cm (1979-1984)
• Mould # 22263 = 500cc (may 1979, not marketed)
• Mould # 22265 = 1460cc - 43.5cm, large factice display bottle (April 1981)

Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres:

• Mould #5097 (plan #25182) = 7.5ml - neck for "plastemeri" stopper, base with hollow engraving" Bole.M.I.France - Copyright 79." for "bottle made in France"

Bottles:

Nahema Parfum de Toilette Flacon c1978:

Four moulds were produced by Pochet et du Courval for the Parfum de Toilette. The bottle is based on the Robert Granai edition used for the Nahema parfum. 

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval:

• Mould #22157 = 60ml - 11.5cm, not marketed (Dec 1978)
• Mould #22159 = 100ml - 14.3cm (Dec 1978-Dec 1992)
• Mould #22161 = 250ml - 18.8cm (Dec 1978-Dec 1992)
• Mould #22263 = 500ml - 23cm (May 1979-Dec 1987)

Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres:

Whereas the Parfum de Toilette Nahema has not been available in bottles since 1992, it was still being sold in a 50ml atomizer made by Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres.

• Mould #5014 (plan#25288) = 50ml atomizer, base with hollow engraving "Copyright 80 - SGD - Bottle - Made in France."

Bottles:

Flacon Montre (Watch) c1936 - 1999

The Flacon Montre (Watch), introduced in 1936, was one of Guerlain’s most enduring bottle designs, remaining in use until 1999. Created by Pochet et du Courval, the flacon was originally conceived to hold eaux de cologne, first appearing with Cachet Jaune. Its name, Montre, meaning “watch” in French, reflects the circular, compact shape of the bottle, which resembles the form of a pocket watch. Over time, it became a versatile vessel used for an impressive range of Guerlain fragrances, including Shalimar, Mitsouko, Jicky, Fôl Arôme, Chamade, Chant d’Arômes, Liu, L’Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Sous le Vent, Chypre 53, Parure, and many more.

Production of the Flacon Montre involved multiple glassmakers over its long history. Pochet et du Courval, the primary producer, created six moulds. In addition, Belgium’s Val Saint Lambert and Momignies Glass Co. each supplied a mould, while the Brosse glassworks also produced one mould of its own (22.5cm tall). This collaboration across different manufacturers ensured consistent supply as demand for Guerlain’s eaux de cologne increased, particularly in the mid-20th century when lighter, more affordable concentrations of luxury perfumes gained popularity.

A 1950 article highlighted Guerlain’s marketing approach with this bottle: “Guerlain recommends spraying a room with their famous Shalimar eau de cologne. This is a lighter form of their famous perfume. Because it is lighter, it is less expensive and can be used more lavishly.” This quote not only illustrates the practicality of the cologne concentration but also underscores how the Flacon Montre was positioned as both luxurious and accessible, a way for customers to indulge in Guerlain scents on a grander scale.

Originally created for Cachet Jaune in 1936, the Montre bottle quickly became the standard vessel for all Guerlain’s perfumed Eaux de Cologne and was widely exported, cementing its place as one of the house’s most recognizable flacons. Its packaging evolved considerably over the decades: the earliest boxes were blue with simple banding, later replaced by a plain white design, followed by a coffee bean motif, then a striking black-and-white zigzag pattern, and finally, elegant gold boxes. By 1997, the Montre flacon was offered in France in 100ml and 200ml sizes for Shalimar (distinguished by its navy blue label) and Mitsouko. For the export market, Guerlain also produced a 60ml size, most commonly filled with Shalimar, Mitsouko, and Vol de Nuit, extending the bottle’s reach to an international clientele who sought a lighter yet refined form of Guerlain’s iconic perfumes.

Used for over six decades, the Flacon Montre is emblematic of Guerlain’s ability to balance tradition with modern utility. While its design was simple and functional, its longevity and adaptability across a wide range of Guerlain’s iconic fragrances make it an important chapter in the house’s bottle history.

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval:

• From 1936-1972, necks are smoothed for ground glass stopper, base of bottle molded with "guerlain - 90 Alcoolique - Made in France."
• From 1972-1979, these bottles were made with a threaded neck for the gold screw-cap. 
• From 1979-1999, necks are smoothed for "plastemeri" plastic stopper, the bases are molded with "Guerlain - 90 Alcoolique  Made in France - HP." 

• Mould #15221 = 50cc/50ml/1.7 oz - 11cm/4.33" (1936-1950) 
• Mould #20619 = 64cc/64ml/2.16 oz - 12.5cm/4.92" (1972-1979) changed 60ml 
• Mould #15223 = 100cc/100ml/3.4 oz - 14.6cm/5.75" (1936-1999) 
• Mould #15225 = 200cc/200ml/6.7 oz - 18.5cm/7.28" (1936-1999) 
• 400cc/400ml/13.5 oz -9.5" (1936-1972) 
• Mould #15227 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 24.3cm/9.57" (1936) 
• Mould #15229 = 1 liter/1000ml - 30cm/11.81" (1936) 
• 2 liter/2000ml - 37.5cm/14.75" (1970) 
• 3 liter/3000ml - 42cm/16.54" (1979) 

Val St Lambert and Momignies Glass Co (Belgium):

• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 16cm/6.3" (1960-1972) base molded "Guerlain - Paris - 90 Alcoolique"

Brosse Glassworks:

• Only one bottle detailed due to lack of information. Bottle stands 25.5cm tall. Neck smoothed for ground glass stopper. Base molded with "Guerlain - 90 Alcoolique - Bottle Made in France - VB"

Stoppers: 

• 1936-1972: ground glass stopper 
• 1972-1979: gold screw-cap stopper 
• 1979-1999: plastic stopper 

Labels:

Since it was used for all of Guerlain's standard colognes, only the central disk of color varied with the names of perfume. 

• Red for Shalimar 
• Yellow for Cachet Jaune 
• Sky Blue for L'Heure Bleue 
• Purple for Ode 
• Pink for Fleur de Feu 
• Navy Blue Vol de Nuit 
• Orange for Chant D'Aromes 
• Emerald Green for Mitsouko
• Burgundy for Jicky 
• Light Aqua for Chamade 
• Turquoise for Parure 
• Sage Green for Chypre 53 
• Black for Liu 
• Between 1972-1979 Shalimar, when in a Montre with a gold cap, had a Navy Blue center.

Bottles:

Scents:

• Cachet Jaune
• Chamade
• Chant d'Aromes
• Chypre 53
• Fol Arome
• Jicky
• Liu
• L’Heure Bleue 
• Mitsouko
• Ode 
• Parure 
• Shalimar
• Sous le Vent
• Vol de Nuit

 

Flacon Mauresque (Moorish) c1910 - ?

The Flacon Mauresque (Moorish), created around 1910, stands out as one of Guerlain’s most exotic and opulent designs, reflecting the fascination with Orientalist aesthetics that pervaded French decorative arts in the early 20th century. This long-necked, carafe-style bottle was almost certainly produced by Pochet et du Courval in a single mould, measuring 22.5 cm in height and with a generous capacity of 250cc. Its design was based on a 17th-century Persian or Moorish perfume flacon preserved in the Guerlain family collection, which served as a direct source of inspiration.

The body of the Flacon Mauresque has a distinctive four-sided belly paired with a tall, gadrooned neck, its form evoking both antique vessels and Oriental craftsmanship. The surface is richly decorated with lacquer and polychrome enamel, hand-painted with delicate motifs of daisies, flowers, geometric threads, and friezes of triangles or pastilles. These designs, applied in a variety of vivid colors, reinforced the sense of luxury and exotic refinement. Each example is slightly unique, as both bottle and stopper were mouth-blown, and the stoppers themselves varied in shape while also receiving the same lacquer and enamel treatments.

Guerlain used this rare Oriental-inspired bottle for several of its important perfumes, including Quand Vient l’Été, Jicky, L’Heure Bleue, and Kadine. The base of the bottle is embossed with “Guerlain Paris,” confirming its authenticity. The presentation box was no less striking: it bore a marbled effect in shades of brown, black, green, and orange, further enhancing the bottle’s exotic flair.

Because only one mould was created by Pochet et du Courval, and given the hand-decorated nature of its production, the Flacon Mauresque remains a particularly rare and highly coveted example of Guerlain’s artistry, a vessel that perfectly encapsulates the house’s early embrace of Orientalist design in both fragrance and presentation.

Sizes:

Pochet only made one mould: 

• 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 22.5cm/8.86"

Bottles:

Flacon Lyre c1921-1959

The Flacon Lyre, produced from 1921 to 1959, is a clear glass bottle originally created by Baccarat to house the extrait Candide Effluve. Its elegant form, inspired by the lyre—a classical stringed instrument—reflects the artistic and decorative sensibilities of the early 1920s, when perfume bottles were increasingly seen as objects of art as much as vessels for fragrance. The bottle was designed with refined lines and proportions that emphasized both verticality and grace, making it a visually striking presentation for Guerlain’s luxurious extraits.

Baccarat produced five moulds of the Flacon Lyre, ensuring consistent quality and allowing for continued production across multiple fragrances. In addition to Candide Effluve, the bottle was later used for other prominent Guerlain scents, including A Travers Champs and Guerlinade, demonstrating the versatility of the design. Its understated elegance allowed it to complement a variety of perfumes without overwhelming their branding.

A particularly rare variation was produced in August 1924 by Pochet et du Courval. This single mould was created in very small quantities specifically for export to the United States, illustrating Guerlain’s early efforts to reach an international market. The combination of Baccarat’s main production and the limited Pochet export edition makes the Flacon Lyre both historically significant and highly collectible, bridging European luxury craftsmanship with the expansion of Guerlain’s global presence.

Sizes:

Baccarat (model#475):

• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 12.9cm/5.08" (1921-1959)
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 14.7cm/5.79" (1921-1959)
• 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 18.7cm/7.36" (1921-1959)
• 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 23.5cm/9.25" (1921-1952)
• 1 liter/1000ml - 29cm/11.42" (1921-1952)

Pochet & the Courval:

• Mould #13638 = 30cc/30ml/1 oz (1924) produced very limited quantities to the USA

Labels:

The same gold and black paper label was available in two sizes:

• Large: 3.1cm x 2.4cm for the three larger bottles.
• Small: 2.5cm x 2.1cm for he two small sizes.

Bottles:

Scents:

• A Travers Champs
• Candide Effluve 
• Guerlinade

Flacon L'Urne Antique c1830

The Flacon L’Urne Antique, created around 1830, is one of the earliest known Guerlain bottles, embodying the refined neoclassical sensibilities of the period. Made of colorless glass, the bottle was produced in four different moulds and carries one of the earliest molded brand inscriptions: “Guerlain – Rue de la Paix No. 15.” This marking not only situates the bottle in its historical context—during Guerlain’s early years at his celebrated boutique on the Rue de la Paix—but also provides collectors with one of the most tangible links to the house’s origins. Standing at just 4 inches tall, it is modest in scale yet rich in historical importance.

The stopper is particularly striking, described as being in the “Chinois” style. Its distinctive mandarin hat–shaped form reflects the 19th-century fascination with Orientalist motifs, which often influenced European decorative arts. The ground glass stopper was fitted with kid leather to ensure a tight seal, and the closure was further secured with a silk bow, adding both practicality and refinement. This meticulous attention to finishing details speaks to Guerlain’s early reputation for elegance and craftsmanship, even in utilitarian aspects of packaging.

Labels for the Flacon L’Urne Antique were printed in the shape of a “blason” or shield—an early emblematic choice that emphasized heritage, prestige, and the protective quality of a coat of arms. These paper labels bore the perfume’s identification and reinforced the classical character of the presentation.

The bottle was not tied to a single fragrance but instead used to hold various Guerlain scents of the period, making it a versatile vessel within the house’s growing catalog. Today, surviving examples of the Flacon L’Urne Antique are considered extremely rare. Their scarcity, combined with their direct connection to Guerlain’s earliest years, makes them prized by collectors and historians alike as touchstones of the brand’s foundational period.

Sizes:

• Mould #1398 = 2 oz (approx. 61cc) - 11.5cm
• Mould #1415 = 4 oz (approx. 122cc) 
• Mould #1406 = 8 oz (approx. 244cc) - 16.7cm
• Mould #4038 = 1 once (approx. 30cc) (1860s)

Bottle:

  

Scents:

• Amyris Polyolens
• Bouquet de la Cour
• Bouquet de Printemps
• Bouquet des Bois
• Bouquet de la Princess Beatrix
• Bouquet de la Princess Clotilde
• Bouquet du Chateau
• Bouquet du Jockey Club
• Bouquet du Prince Imperial
• Bouquet du Regent
• Bridal Bouquet 
• Chypre
• Cytise Sylvaria
• D'Ayapana
• E Pluribus Unum
• Fantasie de Deauville
• Fior d'Aliza
• Fleur de Pecher
• Genet d'Espagne
• Geranium de Serre
• Honey Water
• Iris Blanc
• New Bouquet
• Ocean Spray Bouquet
• Ordem E Progesso
• Rococo A La Parisienne
• Rose et Violette
• Royal Perfume
• Unter den Linden
• Upper Ten
• Violette des Alpes

Flacon Louis XVI c1902-2002

The Flacon Louis XVI, created in 1902 by Pochet et du Courval, is one of Guerlain’s most enduring and versatile bottle designs, remaining in use for a full century until 2002. Designed to hold extraits of some of the house’s most important early fragrances, it originally contained classics such as Après L’Ondée, Muguet, Le Mouchoir de Monsieur, Violette à Deux Sous, Le Bon Vieux Temps, Sillage, Avril en Fleurs, and Aï Loe, among others. Its elegant yet restrained silhouette made it suitable for a wide range of compositions, balancing sophistication with timeless appeal.

The form of the bottle reflects the refinement of the Louis XVI style, characterized by classical symmetry and harmonious proportions. Its simplicity allowed the perfumes themselves to remain the focal point, while the craftsmanship of the glass embodied Guerlain’s commitment to quality. Over time, the Flacon Louis XVI also served as the vessel for special limited editions, including Chamade, confirming its role as a flexible, prestigious design that could bridge different eras of Guerlain’s history.

The original presentation box for the flacon was equally restrained yet elegant: a cylindrical white case stamped with Guerlain Paris in gold leaf, underscoring the luxury and exclusivity of the contents. Pochet et du Courval produced eight different moulds for the bottle across its long production run, with the base bearing various molded inscriptions depending on the period, in chronological order: “Guerlain Paris,” “Guerlain Made in France,” or “Guerlain Bottle Made in France.” These inscriptions not only authenticated the bottles but also reflect the subtle shifts in Guerlain’s branding and production practices over the decades.

The bottle enjoyed a revival in 1977, when it was reissued in a 30 ml size for a wide variety of Guerlain’s iconic fragrances, including Shalimar, Mitsouko, L’Heure Bleue, Chamade, Liu, Sous le Vent, Habit Rouge, Eau de Cologne du Coq, Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat, Eau de Guerlain, Eau de Cologne Vétiver, and Eau de Verveine. This reintroduction reaffirmed the versatility and classical beauty of the design, making it a fitting vessel for both historic and modern Guerlain creations. In 1983, Après L’Ondée itself—one of the original perfumes bottled in this form—was reissued in the 30 ml Flacon Louis XVI, completing a circle of continuity within Guerlain’s long tradition.

By the time production ceased in 2002, the Flacon Louis XVI had come to symbolize Guerlain’s ability to preserve heritage while adapting to new eras, making it not only one of the house’s most practical designs but also one of its most historically significant.

Sizes:

• Mould # 13619 = 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 9cm/3.54" (1924) amended 30ml/1 oz (1983-2002)
• Mould # 7 = 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 9cm/3.54", modification of the 30cc bottle (1950-1959)
• Mould # 7 = 75cc/75ml/2.5 oz - 11.3cm/4.45", modification of the 80cc bottle  (1971)
• Mould # 11383 = 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 11.3cm/4.45" (1902-1962)
• Mould # 11656 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 12.8cm/5.04" (1903-1965)
• Mould # 11779 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 16.4cm/6.46" (1904-1959)
• Mould # 12156 = 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 21.5cm/8.46" (1907-1959)
• Mould # 13253 = 1 liter/1000ml- 25.5cm/10.04" (1920-1959)

A ground glass stopper was used until 1960, and then glass stoppers fitted with "plastemeri" plastic plugs became the norm, so from 1960-2002, these bottles will have the plastic plugs on the stoppers.

Bottles:

Original Scents:

• Apres L'Ondee
• Ai Loe
• Avril en Fleurs
• Le Bon Vieux Temps
• Mouchoir de Monsieur
• Muguet
• Sillage
• Violette a deux Sous

1977 Issued Scents:

• Chamade
• Eau de Cologne du Coq
• Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat
• Eau de Guerlain
• Eau de Cologne Vetiver
• Eau de Verveine
• Habit Rouge
• L'Heure Bleue
• Liu 
• Mitsouko
• Shalimar
• Sous le Vent

1983 Issued Scent: 

• Apres L'Ondee

Flacon Lanterne Bleue (Blue Lantern) c1935-1943

The Flacon Lanterne Bleue (Blue Lantern), produced between 1935 and 1943, is one of Guerlain’s most striking Art Deco-era designs. Its form, a cube-shaped “lantern” rendered in rich cobalt glass, gave the bottle both modernist simplicity and dramatic visual presence. The flacon’s deep, midnight-blue tone was not merely decorative but also functional, shielding the perfume from exposure to light and helping to preserve its integrity. Each bottle was fitted with a clear glass stopper of flared cubic form, echoing the geometry of the base while creating a subtle play of contrast between dark body and translucent top.

Created by Pochet et du Courval, the design was originally introduced to hold extraits of Jicky, Rue de la Paix, Cuir de Russie, Jasmin, Sous le Vent, and several other Guerlain compositions. Over time, the flacon became a standard presentation for as many as thirty different fragrances offered by the house in France, Europe, and the United States. Five separate moulds were produced by Pochet et du Courval, with bottles typically embossed on the underside with both the word “Guerlain” and the firm’s entwined “HP” mark. Although widely adopted, in France the bottle was marketed more selectively: from February 1937 until the end of 1943, only the 80 cc, 125 cc, and 250 cc sizes were available, reserved for specific scents such as Ambre, Cuir de Russie, Gardenia, Lavande, Pois de Senteur, and Verveine.

The labeling system for the Lanterne Bleue was precise and consistent. A white-and-gold paper label was always placed on the underside of the bottle, never on its faces. Three sizes were produced to correspond to the different formats: a 2.6 cm label for the three larger bottles, a 1.8 cm label for the medium size (7.3 cm in height), and a 1.4 cm label for the smallest (5.4 cm in height). This understated placement ensured that the bold form and rich blue glass remained uninterrupted by paper decoration, emphasizing the flacon’s architectural purity.

Though its production ended during the war years, the Flacon Lanterne Bleue retained a certain mystique and was revived in 1999 when Guerlain reissued the design to house a limited edition 125 ml extrait of Guet Apens. This reintroduction not only honored the elegance of the original form but also reconnected a late 20th-century fragrance release with Guerlain’s interwar design heritage, reminding collectors of the house’s long tradition of marrying utility with beauty in its bottle designs.

Sizes:

• Mould #15240 = 10cc/10ml/0.338 oz - 5.4cm/2.13" (May 1936, size reserved for export) 
• Mould #15205 = 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 7.3cm/2.87" (March 1936, size reserved for export)
• Mould #15150 = 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 9.7cm/3.82" (Sept 1935-1943) 
• Mould #15207 = 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (March 1936, reissued in 1999 125ml/4.2 oz - 12cm/4.72" for Guet Apens) 
• Mould #15209 = 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 14cm/5.51" (May 1936-1943) 

Bottles:

Scents:

1. Ambre
2. Apres L'Ondee
3. Cuir de Russie
4. Gardenia
5. Guerlinade
6. Guet Apens (1999)
7. Jasmin
8. Jicky
9. Kadine
10. Lavande
11. L'Heure Bleue
12. Liu
13. Mitsouko
14. Pois de Senteur
15. Rue de la Paix
16. Sous le Vent
17. Vega
18. Verveine
19. Violette