Marquetry Packaging 1912-Present

For several of its most beloved perfumes—Fol Arome, L’Heure Bleue, and Mitsouko—Guerlain chose an especially refined presentation box that beautifully simulated marquetry. Two distinct versions of this design were produced, both evoking the elegance of inlaid wood craftsmanship.

First Version:

The first version, created around the early part of the century, was crafted from poplar wood and covered in polychrome lithographed paper that imitated the intricate look of ivory-inlaid marquetry. This design depicted pastoral scenes of hunting and fishing, richly detailed and artistically arranged, and was printed by the prestigious Draeger frères, who were known for their exceptional lithographic work. A wide off-white border framed the design, enhancing the impression of delicately inlaid panels. Inside, the box was luxuriously finished with satin and velvet linings, cradling the perfume bottle like a precious jewel.

Second Version:

By the 1950s, Guerlain introduced a second version of the marquetry-style box, also produced by Draeger frères, but with subtle updates reflecting postwar design sensibilities. When the two are compared, differences become apparent—the earlier box features a natural wood grain background, giving it an organic warmth, while the later version adopts a burled wood pattern, offering a more decorative and polished appearance. The typography evolved as well: the older lettering bears a slightly foliate character, graceful and ornate, whereas the newer font appears simpler and more modern. Even the artwork was reinterpreted—the trees in the later design were rendered in a more stylized form, and the birds subtly altered in shape, reflecting the changing tastes of the era.

Together, these two versions illustrate Guerlain’s sensitivity to both tradition and modernity—preserving the poetic imagery of its early packaging while embracing a fresher aesthetic suited to mid-century refinement.

 

 

Bottles:

In the first version of the marquetry presentation, Guerlain housed its most treasured perfumes—Fol Arome, L’Heure Bleue, and Mitsouko—in the iconic Bouchon Cœur flacon. This heart-stopper bottle, with its elegant curves and distinctive hollowed “heart” stopper, had become a symbol of Guerlain’s romantic aesthetic. Nestled within the satin-lined marquetry boxes, these flacons perfectly complemented the refined artistry of their packaging, creating a harmonious marriage between fragrance and presentation. The Bouchon Cœur flacons reflected the craftsmanship and poetic spirit of early Guerlain, embodying both sentimentality and sophistication.

By the 1950s, Guerlain retained the Bouchon Cœur for its parfum concentrations, honoring its established design heritage, but the presentation boxes were subtly reimagined to accommodate newer bottle forms. From 1952 to 1978, the marquetry-style cases were modified to hold the Parapluie “Flacon de Sac”—a portable umbrella-shaped bottle intended for travel—and from 1955 to 1982, the graceful Amphore flacon, whose slender, urn-like silhouette echoed classical antiquity. This adaptation reflected Guerlain’s evolving approach to presentation during the postwar years, balancing practicality with enduring elegance.

These changes demonstrated the House’s ability to blend continuity with innovation—preserving the charm of its original designs while adjusting to modern sensibilities and the demands of a changing luxury market. Each evolution in bottle form and packaging maintained Guerlain’s unwavering commitment to beauty, craftsmanship, and the ritual of perfume.

Special Versions:

During the 1940s and 1950s, Guerlain’s perfume boxes sometimes bore small, clear acetate labels reading either “Guerlain Paris” or “Guerlain New York, NY Distributor.” These discreet labels were affixed directly to the packaging and may appear slightly glossy or translucent against the box surface. While simple in appearance, these labels served an important legal and commercial function. They were not decorative additions but rather a response to U.S. trade and labeling regulations that emerged during the mid-twentieth century.

Following the introduction of the Fair Trade Practice Act and related truth-in-advertising laws in the United States, imported merchandise—particularly luxury goods—was required to bear a clear indication of its origin and point of distribution. These regulations were designed to prevent misleading branding and ensure that consumers were fully informed about where and by whom a product was made or sold. For companies like Guerlain, whose products were both manufactured in France and distributed through American subsidiaries, compliance with these laws was essential to maintaining transparency and consumer trust.

To meet these legal standards, Guerlain began applying these acetate distributor labels to perfume boxes destined for the American market. “Guerlain Paris” indicated direct French origin, while “Guerlain New York, NY Distributor” signified that the perfumes—though blended from French essences—were handled, packaged, or distributed through Guerlain’s U.S. offices. This ensured that the brand could continue operating within American retail networks without violating import or labeling laws.

Beyond their regulatory role, these labels have become a subtle marker of historical context. To collectors today, they help date a product’s period of export and trace Guerlain’s international trade practices during a transformative era when luxury French perfumes were adapting to global markets while preserving their Parisian identity.

In the 1950s-1960s, the box was modified so that the bottle could rest in a base while the lid of the box slips over. It appears this version was made for export to Mexico. 

In the 1980s, cylindrical enameled purse flacons were introduced for a limited time. The flacons were enameled with the marquetry pattern and held L'Heure Bleue parfum.

Also in the 1980s, a special set made for japanese export was created, incorporating the marquetry design.

In the 1990s, for export, possibly only for Japan, Mitsouko was housed inside of a resin case covered in the marquetry paper. 

 

 

White Box & Dot Packaging 1950-1967

Between 1950 and 1967, Guerlain adopted what collectors now refer to as the White Box packaging style — a minimalist and modern departure from the ornate, gilded designs of earlier decades. Used primarily for the eaux de cologne versions of Guerlain’s most popular fragrances, these boxes were simple yet sophisticated: pure white with a single colored dot centered near the top, immediately identifying the scent within. The choice of color was deliberate and consistent across the range — a form of elegant visual shorthand. Shalimar was distinguished by a rich red dot, L’Heure Bleue and Vol de Nuit by royal blue, Liu by black, Jicky and Ode by a regal purple, Mitsouko by turquoise, Chant d’Arômes by a delicate pale pink, Chamade by a soft pastel green, and Cachet Jaune by a sunny yellow. This subtle chromatic system allowed for instant recognition while maintaining a unified, contemporary appearance that reflected mid-century refinement.

This white box packaging was used for Guerlain’s eaux de cologne presented in both the Montre (disk-shaped) and Voyage (flat square) flacons — both of which embodied the sleek, functional design aesthetic popular during the 1950s and 1960s. These bottles were often produced in France and shipped to the United States, where they were filled with fragrance concentrates imported directly from the Parisian headquarters. The practice of blending and bottling locally allowed Guerlain to meet growing international demand more efficiently while preserving the quality of its French essences.

The same clean, modern packaging aesthetic extended beyond perfume to Guerlain’s skincare and toiletry lines during this period. The crisp white boxes, accented with a single identifying hue, aligned perfectly with the postwar desire for purity, order, and sophistication. They mirrored the era’s fascination with streamlined design — a time when fashion, architecture, and beauty all leaned toward elegant simplicity. Guerlain’s White Box packaging exemplified this shift: understated yet unmistakably luxurious, it symbolized the brand’s ability to adapt to modern sensibilities while maintaining its legacy of timeless French elegance.

Special Wartime Packaging 1939-1945

Between 1939 and 1945, during the difficult years of the Second World War, Guerlain—like all luxury manufacturers in France—faced severe material shortages and production constraints. Precious resources such as glass, metals, and decorative papers were heavily rationed or redirected toward the war effort, forcing even the most prestigious perfume houses to simplify their presentations. During this time, Guerlain’s extraits were issued in a plain, solid blue cardboard box with crisp white lettering, a style known among collectors as “présentations de guerre” (wartime presentations). These understated boxes lacked the ornate gilded details, satin linings, and decorative labels that had characterized Guerlain’s peacetime packaging. Instead, they reflected both the austerity and resilience of the era—a stripped-back, functional design that allowed the company to continue offering its perfumes despite significant wartime limitations.

Each of these blue boxes carried an important printed message: “Conditionnement Provisoire dû au manque d’écrin. La qualité et la quantité du parfum sont rigoureusement identiques à celles de notre présentation normale.” Translated, this means “Temporary packaging due to a shortage of presentation boxes. The quality and quantity of the perfume are strictly identical to those of our regular presentation.” This declaration was not merely a formality—it was a reassurance to customers. In a time of uncertainty and sacrifice, Guerlain wanted to affirm that while the outward appearance of luxury had been temporarily lost, the essence of its artistry remained untouched. The perfume itself, its formula, and its concentration were unchanged, maintaining the same quality that loyal patrons expected.

This label also served a practical and psychological purpose. It prevented any confusion or disappointment among clients who might have mistaken the austere packaging for an inferior or counterfeit product. It reflected Guerlain’s commitment to transparency and integrity during a period when many companies struggled to maintain consistency. The message reassured consumers that Guerlain’s dedication to excellence endured, even in wartime—a promise that the soul of the brand, its perfume, remained as refined and exquisite as ever, regardless of circumstance.

Coffee Bean Packaging 1950-1966

From 1950 to 1966, Guerlain ushered in a new visual identity for its product presentation — a move that reflected both modern elegance and postwar optimism. The house replaced its long-standing blue diagonal wrapping paper with a more contemporary design featuring the stylized Guerlain “G” set within gray polka dots on a crisp white background. Collectors fondly refer to this as the “coffee bean” pattern for its resemblance to neatly scattered beans across a tabletop. This design was sometimes used not only as wrapping paper but also as printed cardboard packaging for soaps, powders, skincare and other perfumed goods, creating a cohesive, instantly recognizable look across the brand’s offerings. Each package bore a sunny yellow label displaying the fragrance name, Guerlain catalog number, and the classic Marly horse emblem — a small but distinguished nod to the brand’s heritage.

Guerlain’s decision to modernize its packaging during this period was both strategic and symbolic. The 1950s marked a new cultural and economic era — one defined by sleek design, optimism, and consumer sophistication. The “coffee bean” motif offered a cleaner, more minimalist aesthetic that felt current yet retained the refinement associated with the house. It represented a bridge between tradition and modernity, echoing Guerlain’s ongoing evolution while staying true to its roots in French luxury. This new style helped position Guerlain alongside other mid-century design leaders, appealing to a generation that valued both quality and contemporary taste.

If your Guerlain product remains factory sealed in its “coffee bean” wrapping, it deserves careful preservation. To open it safely, use a sharp X-Acto knife to gently lift the paper’s corners at the top and bottom seams, allowing the box to slide free without tearing the delicate design. Once removed, store the wrapping in an acid-free plastic sleeve or archival bag, along with your presentation box. This original packaging is not only an attractive artifact but also a valuable dating tool that helps authenticate the item’s period of production. Preserving it adds both historical and collector value, as intact mid-century Guerlain wrapping has become increasingly scarce.

Even so, it is advisable to open the packaging and inspect the contents inside. Over decades, perfumes can leak, evaporate, or stain the interior box unnoticed beneath the sealed paper. Confirming the condition of the bottle and verifying its fill level ensures the piece remains in the best possible state. By preserving both the fragrance and its presentation materials, you safeguard an authentic piece of Guerlain’s postwar design history — a moment when the house redefined luxury for the modern age.