Promenade des Anglais 2016

Promenade des Anglais by Guerlain, launched in 2016 as part of the Les Parisiennes line, evokes the essence of a sun-drenched stroll along the famed Promenade des Anglais in Nice, France. The name, pronounced as "proh-mah-nahd day ahn-glay", literally translates from French as “Walkway of the English.” It immediately conjures images of leisurely, stylish promenades along the Mediterranean coast, bathed in golden sunlight, where gentle sea breezes mingle with the scents of citrus orchards and blooming gardens. The fragrance captures both the elegance of the Riviera and the lighthearted joie de vivre associated with Provençal escapes, appealing to women who seek a sensory moment of refinement and sophistication amidst daily life.

The launch period of 2016 found the perfume world embracing fresh, bright compositions with subtle complexity, often inspired by travel, nature, and lifestyle experiences. Thierry Wasser’s decision to reformulate the earlier 2008 Aqua Allegoria Figue-Iris reflects this trend, offering a fragrance that is simultaneously modern and rooted in the house’s historic craftsmanship. Women of this time, drawn to fragrances that evoke both elegance and vitality, would have related to Promenade des Anglais as an olfactory passport—a chic escape along sunlit streets and fragrant gardens, capturing the warmth of Provence even in winter months.

The fragrance itself is a masterful orchestration of contrasting yet harmonious elements. At first encounter, the bergamot top note presents a bright, citrusy freshness, sourced from Calabria, Italy, prized for its balanced acidity and aromatic richness. The natural limonene and linalyl acetate within bergamot provide sparkling clarity, which is further enhanced by synthetics that ensure a persistent, luminous lift. Midway, the fig note evokes the green, slightly milky facets of freshly cut leaves and ripening fruit, balancing the citrus with its soft, vegetal sweetness. This is complemented by the delicate iris, whose powdery, slightly woody nuance—rich in irones—imparts refinement and longevity, blending seamlessly with the fig to create a tactile, velvety floral heart.

Finally, the base settles with subtle powderiness that envelops the wearer in elegance without heaviness. The interplay of these notes recalls the sun-warmed streets of the Riviera, the gentle rustle of fig leaves, and the whisper of iris petals, all harmonized in a composition that balances freshness, fruitiness, and powdery sophistication. Guerlain’s use of noble raw materials, enhanced judiciously by modern aroma chemicals, ensures that the fragrance is both radiant and enduring, offering a contemporary interpretation of a timeless Mediterranean escape. Promenade des Anglais thus stands as both a nod to Guerlain’s heritage and a testament to the modern luxury fragrance landscape of its era.

From Guerlain: "Promenade des Anglais is part of the Exclusive Collections, fragrances for perfume enthusiasts rare, sensitive to the noble materials and the refinement of the details. The Exclusive Collections are available in France exclusively in Parisian Guerlain Boutiques and now on your online shop Guerlain. Promenade des Anglais invited to a chic Parisian escape along the French Riviera. A soft and fresh breakaway, bathed in the sun of Provence. Bergamot, curled up in the softness of iris and fig, is the promise of a sunny walk in the heart of winter. The fragrance is composed as a tribute to the subtle and contrasting flavors of the Mediterranean. The freshness of citrus blends with the plant side of the fig, double delight face, the round and fruity flesh marries elegance with powdery iris."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Promenade des Anglais is classified as a fresh, fruity powdery fragrance for women. 

• Top notes: bergamot, fig, violet leaf, currant buds
• Middle notes: violet, mimosa, lily of the valley, rose
• Base notes: orris, heliotrope, white musk

Scent Profile:

Promenade des Anglais by Guerlain opens with a luminous blend of bergamot, fig, violet leaf, and currant buds, each note inviting you into a sunlit, Mediterranean escape. The bergamot, likely sourced from Calabria, Italy, carries a sparkling brightness with a natural interplay of limonene, linalyl acetate, and subtle terpenes, giving a clean, uplifting citrus clarity that feels like the first rays of dawn on the Riviera. Layered atop this, the fig evokes the green, milky essence of fig leaves and the ripe, succulent fruit itself—a combination of natural aldehydes and subtle green esters creating a fresh, slightly sweet vegetal aroma, which modern synthetic accords gently amplify to enhance longevity and radiance. Violet leaf brings a crisp, watery greenness, rich in ionones, evoking soft leafiness that tempers the sweetness, while currant buds add a piquant, tangy freshness reminiscent of early spring shoots, adding subtle tartness and vibrancy to the initial impression.

The heart of the fragrance blossoms with an elegant floral bouquet. Violet petals exude soft powdery facets, their natural ionones lending both warmth and ethereal lightness. Mimosa imparts a golden, honeyed warmth that feels delicate and intimate, balancing the crisp green top notes. Lily of the valley contributes a fresh, dewy quality, with its lactonic compounds lending a creamy floral clarity, while rose enriches the bouquet with classic elegance and depth, emphasizing the romantic character of the composition. Together, these florals create a harmonious, airy bouquet that feels simultaneously tender and radiant, the floral accords delicately lifted by subtle synthetics that enhance diffusion and ensure the heart lingers softly over the skin.

The base unfolds with orris, heliotrope, and white musk, grounding the perfume in a refined, powdery softness. Orris, derived from carefully aged rhizomes, brings a velvety, slightly woody powdery depth enriched by beta-ionone, complementing the gentle, almond-like warmth of heliotrope, which contains natural heliotropin (piperonal) for soft gourmand accents. White musk provides a clean, enveloping softness, enhancing the longevity of the powdery floral accords and creating a delicate, airy trail that evokes the sun-warmed Riviera and the quiet elegance of a morning promenade. The result is a fragrance that is at once fresh, fruity, and powdery—luxurious yet approachable—embodying the timeless elegance and luminous refinement for which Guerlain is celebrated.

Bottles:

Presented as part of the Les Parisiennes line and housed in the white bee bottle. The juice is tinted a mint green which contrasts beautifully with the purple grosgrain bow tied around the neck. Retailed for 205€ for 125ml eau de parfum, available at the Guerlain boutiques.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Geranium d'Espagne c1879

Geranium d’Espagne by Guerlain was introduced around 1879–1881, during a time when European society was captivated by exotic imagery and the allure of foreign lands. The name, Geranium d’Espagne—literally translated from French as “Spanish Geranium” (pronounced "zheh-rah-nee-oom day-spahn-yuh")—evokes the sunlit gardens and vibrant landscapes of Spain. It conjures visions of terracotta courtyards, vivid red geraniums spilling from wrought-iron balconies, and the warmth of Mediterranean air infused with spice and flowers. By choosing this name, Guerlain tapped into the 19th-century fascination with Orientalism and regional romanticism, presenting the perfume as both exotic and refined.

The late 19th century, particularly the Belle Époque, was a period of optimism, technological progress, and artistic flourishing in France. Fashion favored elaborate gowns with bustles, corsets, and layers of lace, while perfumery began to reflect a newfound sophistication, shifting from simple single-note florals to more structured blends. Women of the time, eager to embrace cosmopolitan trends, would have found Geranium d’Espagne both fashionable and evocative—a scent that suggested worldliness and a hint of daring, while still firmly rooted in floral elegance. Its name alone promised both refinement and passion, qualities associated with the romanticized vision of Spain that captivated the French imagination.

In olfactory terms, “Geranium d’Espagne” would have been interpreted as a floral with a spicy, aromatic edge, mirroring the natural qualities of the geranium flower itself. Geranium is unique in perfumery because, beyond its rosy-green freshness, it carries a slightly minty, peppery bite, often used to add lift and vibrancy to floral compositions. The addition of spices or warm accents emphasized its piquant character, making the fragrance stand out against more demure florals of the era. This balance between delicacy and warmth reflected not only the flower’s aromatic complexity but also the romantic ideals associated with Spain—vivid, passionate, and richly atmospheric.

Spanish Geranium was a popular fragrance theme throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, with nearly every major perfumery offering its own version. Recipes appeared frequently in period formularies, often adhering to a shared structure but adjusted with small variations. Some perfumers highlighted the floral character, while others leaned into spice or balsamic notes to distinguish their creation. Guerlain’s version, true to the house’s reputation, likely emphasized refinement and balance, ensuring it stood out among its many competitors. The trend remained influential long enough for Jacques Guerlain to revisit and reformulate the fragrance in 1922, updating it with modern materials. Early compositions had relied almost exclusively on tinctures, infusions, and natural extracts, but by the close of the 19th century, synthetics such as geraniol—a key aroma chemical with a rosy, slightly citrusy freshness—were being incorporated. These new materials allowed perfumers to both amplify the natural effect of geranium and create more stable, long-lasting accords, bridging the gap between tradition and modernity.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Geranium d'Espagne is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women, reflecting the aromatic and slightly piquant character of the geranium flower..

• Top notes: bergamot, violet, rose, geraniol, Spanish geranium
• Middle notes: palmarosa, rose, Algerian geranium, tuberose, jasmine, Manila ylang ylang
• Base notes: clove, musk, orris, cedar, sandalwood

Scent Profile:

When one encounters Geranium d’Espagne, the impression is both immediate and layered—an unfolding of freshness, floral complexity, and subtle spice that together capture the spirited character of the geranium flower. The fragrance opens brightly, almost effervescently, with bergamot lending its crisp, sparkling citrus lift. This Italian bergamot is prized for its refined balance of sweetness and tartness, its essential oil naturally containing linalyl acetate and limonene, which give it a radiant yet smooth brightness. Against this fresh backdrop, a delicate veil of violet appears, powdery and green, its ionones contributing a soft, velvety quality that cushions the sharper citrus. 

Soon, the perfume takes on a rosy glow—rose absolute, with its rich bouquet of citronellol, geraniol, and phenylethyl alcohol, intertwines with geraniol itself (here also employed as a standalone molecule). By highlighting geraniol, Guerlain amplifies the rosy-lemony freshness that naturally occurs in both rose and geranium, bridging them seamlessly into the central theme of Spanish geranium. This variety, cultivated under the hot Iberian sun, develops a spicier, slightly minty facet compared to North African geraniums, the warmth of the climate drawing out sharper terpenes and a green pungency that gives the fragrance its distinct piquant sparkle.

The heart of Geranium d’Espagne expands with lush florals and aromatic accents. Palmarosa, a grass native to India, reveals a green, rosy nuance, owing again to its high geraniol content—here acting as a natural echo of the Spanish geranium note, reinforcing the central theme while adding a grassy brightness. More rose deepens the floral body, but now it is joined by opulent tuberose, creamy, narcotic, and laced with buttery indoles that lend a heady sensuality. The intoxicating quality continues with jasmine, whose natural indole and benzyl acetate bring an almost animalic warmth beneath its white-floral sweetness. 

From the Philippines, Manila ylang ylang contributes a uniquely exotic profile—its tropical climate producing oil rich in benzyl benzoate and p-cresyl methyl ether, giving it both creamy-solar and slightly leathery undertones. This balance of lush white florals against the sharper geranium threads creates a tension between warmth and coolness, decadence and clarity, making the heart both dramatic and refined. Meanwhile, Algerian geranium, harvested in the Mediterranean’s arid soils, offers a greener, slightly peppery counterpoint to its Spanish cousin, distinguished by its dry herbal quality—a nod to the North African influence in European perfumery at the time.

The base anchors the composition with depth, richness, and longevity. Clove, with its eugenol-driven spicy warmth, ties seamlessly to the geranium’s natural piquancy, extending the peppery accents into the drydown. Orris root, powdered and buttery, adds a soft, suede-like texture, while musk enfolds the composition in a sensual haze, smoothing the sharper edges and lending animalic warmth. Cedarwood, likely Atlas cedar from Morocco, contributes its dry, pencil-shaving woodiness, grounded by the creamy balsamic qualities of sandalwood, whose Mysore origin was particularly valued for its smooth, almost milky undertone rich in santalols. Together, these woods and resins form a steady foundation for the lively, spicy florals above.

In Geranium d’Espagne, natural and synthetic elements are carefully balanced—the isolated geraniol heightening the effect of natural geranium and rose, while natural extracts provide the fullness, complexity, and unpredictable nuance that no molecule alone can replicate. The result is a fragrance that feels at once botanical and stylized: a spicy floral that captures the brightness of Mediterranean gardens, the exoticism of foreign blooms, and the quiet sophistication that defined Guerlain’s art of perfumery at the turn of the century.

Bottles:

The perfume was presented in several signature flacons, it was first contained in the Carré flacon (parfum) and then others including the Quadrilobe (parfum) starting in 1908, Flacon Guerre (parfum) 1938-1945, and the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette) starting in 1923. It was eventually discontinued at an unknown date.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1879, Geranium d’Espagne remained a part of Guerlain’s collection for several decades, its longevity a testament to its popularity with women who cherished its lively, spicy floral character. Though the exact date of its discontinuation is not recorded, archival references confirm that the fragrance was still being sold in the 1940s, placing it among the house’s long-standing creations that bridged the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

During its life span, Geranium d’Espagne would have appealed to women who sought a perfume both elegant and distinctive, embodying the bright, piquant qualities of geranium—an ingredient that carried exotic associations with Spain and the Mediterranean. Its continued availability well into the 20th century shows how Guerlain’s clientele valued its enduring freshness and spice, even as newer, more complex compositions emerged. Like many early Guerlain fragrances, it eventually faded quietly from the catalogue, leaving behind only a trace in history, yet its memory lingers as part of the rich fabric of Guerlain’s early explorations in floral perfumery.

Bouquet Mademoiselle c1846

Bouquet Mademoiselle by Guerlain was first launched in 1846, during a period when perfumery was increasingly celebrating femininity and elegance through delicately composed floral fragrances. The name, “Bouquet Mademoiselle”, is French, pronounced roughly as “boo-kay mad-mwaz-el,” and translates literally to “Miss’s Bouquet.” The words evoke images of a carefully gathered, dainty bouquet of flowers, the kind a young lady might carry during a stroll through a sunlit garden. It conveys a sense of youthful charm, refinement, and innocence, paired with subtle sophistication. For women of the mid-19th century, the fragrance would have resonated with ideals of grace, modesty, and cultivated femininity, perfectly complementing the era’s fashions of flowing gowns, delicate lace, and intricate hairstyles.

Created by Aimé Guerlain, Bouquet Mademoiselle was reformulated around 1890 and dedicated to María de las Mercedes, Princess of Asturias, the heir presumptive to the Spanish throne. This connection lent the perfume an air of prestige, linking its floral elegance to the refinement and sophistication of royalty. The fragrance itself is classified as a floral oriental with powdery nuances, reflecting a delicate balance between sweetness, warmth, and soft, powdery elegance. It opens with a bouquet of violet and rose, notes that were highly prized for their subtle, romantic, and feminine character, perfectly in keeping with the sentimental sensibilities of the period.

The heart of Bouquet Mademoiselle is a tender floral accord, enhanced by subtle oriental warmth that provides depth and longevity without overpowering the wearer. Powdery elements, likely derived from orris and violet ionones, lend the perfume a soft, elegant finish, giving it an airy, graceful quality. In its time, it fit well within contemporary trends, as many perfumers were producing floral compositions built around rose and violet, yet Bouquet Mademoiselle distinguished itself through its suave and gracefully charming personality, creating a fragrance that felt both familiar and refined, with a signature sophistication unique to the Guerlain house.

Parfums Préparés par Condensation:

Bouquet Mademoiselle occupied a distinguished place within Guerlain’s “Parfums Préparés par Condensation” series, a collection celebrated for its originality, refinement, and the artistry of its compositions. The term “Parfums Préparés par Condensation” translates literally to “Perfumes Prepared by Condensation” and refers to a sophisticated method of extracting aromatic compounds, most commonly via steam distillation, which was widely employed in the 19th and early 20th centuries. In this process, fresh plant or flower material is exposed to steam, causing its volatile aromatic compounds to evaporate. The resulting vapor is then cooled and condensed into a concentrated liquid essence. Compared to techniques like enfleurage or maceration, which rely on absorption or soaking, condensation preserves the full aromatic profile of the raw material, highlighting subtle nuances and enhancing both the richness and longevity of the fragrance. For Guerlain, presenting a perfume within this series signaled not only technical mastery but also a dedication to olfactory sophistication and artisanal quality.

Within the series, each fragrance was designed to possess a distinct character. Bouquet Mademoiselle, in particular, was described as suave and gracefully charming, a delicate floral oriental with powdery nuances that exuded elegance and refinement. Its bouquet of violet and rose, tender yet nuanced, reflected the sentimentality and femininity cherished in the late 19th century. This smooth, polished composition was harmoniously balanced, creating an aroma that was immediately recognizable yet gentle, never overpowering, in keeping with the wearer’s grace and sophistication.

Other members of the series emphasized contrasting qualities: Le Jardin de Mon Curé was flowery, persistent, and original; Belle France projected freshness and staying power; Cyprisine was highly accentué, with intensified notes for dramatic effect; and Dix Petales de Roses offered a fresh, flowery, and smooth experience. Gavotte and Grande Maréchale highlighted originality and long-lasting presence, while Paris Nouveau and Rodomel showcased sweet, charming, enduring floral tones. Tsao-Ko was boldly accentuated, immediately distinctive, whereas Violette à Deux Sous combined sweetness with a suave, persistent character. Young Princess provided a soft, sweet, and sophisticated impression, rounding out the series.

Within this context, descriptors such as accentué, suave, persistent, and original carried precise meaning. An accentué fragrance emphasizes select notes to make them prominent and memorable. A suave perfume is smooth, polished, and elegantly balanced, harmoniously highlighting the wearer’s refinement. A persistent scent carries heavier, long-lasting notes that linger for hours, while an original fragrance introduces novel and inventive combinations, reflecting Guerlain’s creative audacity. Bouquet Mademoiselle, with its tender floral oriental elegance, exemplified the smooth sophistication and timeless charm that defined the pinnacle of Guerlain’s artistry in this celebrated series.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Bouquet Mademoiselle is classified as a floral oriental fragrance with powdery nuances.

• Top notes: bergamot, cassie, almond, violet, rose tincture 
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose otto, violet, ionone, orris, rosewood, vetiver, patchouli
• Base notes: civet, ambergris, storax, sandalwood, benzoin, musk, ambrette

Scent Profile:

Bouquet Mademoiselle unfolds like a refined floral oriental, opening with top notes that immediately charm the senses. The bright, sparkling bergamot offers a citrusy lift, its natural limonene lending a crisp, effervescent quality that invigorates without overwhelming. Cassie, derived from the blossoms of Acacia farnesiana, introduces a warm, sweetly floral aroma with subtle honeyed nuances, a delicate contrast to the citrus brightness. Almond imparts a soft, nutty warmth, its lactones providing creamy, slightly gourmand undertones that enrich the perfume’s opening. Violet contributes a gentle powderiness, delicate and airy, a floral whisper that balances the richness of the cassie and almond. Meanwhile, rose tincture provides a natural, slightly tinctured aroma reminiscent of freshly steeped petals, deepening the floral impression and hinting at the oriental heart to come. Together, these notes create a fresh yet subtly opulent introduction, immediately sophisticated yet tender.

As Bouquet Mademoiselle evolves into its heart, the bouquet intensifies into a lush, powdery floral composition. Jasmine lends its radiant, narcotic sweetness, a floral cornerstone that harmonizes with rose otto, sourced traditionally from Bulgaria or Turkey, where cooler climates produce roses with a richer, more complex aroma dominated by phenylethyl alcohol, providing both depth and a natural rosy warmth. Violet repeats here, enhancing the soft, powdery character, while ionone, a synthetic aromatic component derived from violets, amplifies the floral nuances and lends a refined, ethereal violet powderiness that natural violet alone could not achieve. 

Orris root, with its iris pallida origin from Italy, contributes a delicate, powdery, and slightly woody aroma, rich in irones that give the perfume a velvety depth. Rosewood, typically from Brazil, adds a sweet, woody floral note with subtle camphoraceous freshness, complementing the vetiver from Haiti, which lends earthy, green, and slightly smoky facets. Patchouli, originating from Indonesia, contributes a deep, resinous earthiness with naturally occurring patchoulol that enhances the fragrance’s oriental structure. This middle phase balances airy floral sweetness with grounded, nuanced woodiness, creating a smooth, sophisticated character that is elegant and persistent.

The base notes of Bouquet Mademoiselle are luxuriously warm, enduring, and subtly animalic. Civet, traditionally sourced from African civet cats, adds a musky, slightly leathery depth, while ambergris, a rare marine secretion, provides a salty, sweet, and sensual richness that enhances the fragrance’s longevity and radiance. Storax contributes balsamic, slightly spicy warmth, harmonizing with sandalwood from Mysore, prized for its creamy, soft, and lasting woody aroma. Benzoin, a resin from Southeast Asia, offers sweet, vanillic warmth that blends seamlessly with musk and ambrette, giving a natural, slightly animalic sensuality. Together, these base notes anchor the floral and oriental heart with a sophisticated, velvety finish, leaving a trail that is both elegant and memorable.

Bouquet Mademoiselle, in its entirety, is a masterful interplay of bright citrus, tender floral powders, and deep oriental warmth. The combination of natural extracts, regional distinctions, and carefully chosen aromachemicals—particularly the use of ionones to enhance violet and orris—creates a perfume that is at once delicate and persistent, sophisticated yet inviting. It embodies the 19th-century elegance of floral oriental fragrances, a powdery, charming composition that leaves a graceful, lasting impression.

Bottles:

Presented in the refined Carré flacon and the flacon Plat, the perfume epitomized the grace, elegance, and aristocratic femininity associated with its time..

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Ambre Eternel 2016

Ambre Éternel by Guerlain, launched in January 2016, marked the second chapter in the Les Absolus d’Orient collection — a series inspired by the perfumed grandeur and opulent sensuality of the East. Following Santal Royal, this composition was crafted by Thierry Wasser, Guerlain’s in-house perfumer, as a tribute to the timeless allure of amber, a material that has symbolized warmth, mystery, and immortality for centuries. Initially released exclusively in the United Arab Emirates, Ambre Éternel spoke directly to the region’s appreciation for deep, resinous, and enveloping scents before becoming available worldwide in February 2016.

The name “Ambre Éternel” translates from French as “Eternal Amber” (pronounced Om-bruh Eh-tair-nel), a phrase that immediately evokes images of something precious, luminous, and enduring. The word ambre conjures the golden warmth of fossilized resin, but in perfumery, it refers to the sensual accord built from ambergris, vanilla, labdanum, and benzoin — ingredients that together create an impression of molten gold and sunlit skin. Éternel, meaning “eternal,” amplifies the sense of permanence and devotion, suggesting a fragrance that transcends time and fashion, much like the oriental materials that inspired it.

When Ambre Éternel was released, the early 2010s perfume landscape was defined by a growing fascination with Middle Eastern perfumery. Western houses were increasingly seeking to capture the richness and intensity beloved in Arabian olfactory culture — oud, amber, incense, and leather were no longer niche ingredients but part of a global trend toward luxurious, genderless oriental compositions. In this context, Guerlain’s offering stood out not as a commercial imitation but as a respectful dialogue between French sophistication and Eastern sensuality.

 

To the women and men of 2016, a perfume called Ambre Éternel would have felt like an invitation to travel — both inward and across cultures. It promised warmth, mystery, and timelessness, appealing to a new generation of perfume connoisseurs drawn to artisanal craftsmanship and authenticity. The imagery is evocative: golden light filtering through desert sands, silks perfumed with incense, and the intimate glow of ambergris softening the austerity of spice and smoke.

In scent, Ambre Éternel unfolds as a woody oriental, seamlessly balanced between power and restraint. The opening is infused with cardamom and coriander, whose aromatic spiciness lends brightness and movement to the composition. These spices, rich in natural aldehydes and terpenes, create a sparkling lift before the fragrance deepens into its heart. There, orange blossom introduces a subtle floral thread — its indolic sweetness and honeyed warmth tempering the darker tones — while incense curls through the composition like sacred smoke. The base is anchored by real ambergris, rare and animalic, which lends a mineral smoothness unlike any synthetic counterpart. Leather and dry woods follow, grounding the scent in a tactile sensuality that lingers for hours.

Within the landscape of 2016 perfumery, Ambre Éternel was both timeless and timely. It embraced the prevailing trend of oriental luxury but interpreted it through Guerlain’s signature restraint — elegant rather than overwhelming, mysterious yet luminous. It was not merely another amber fragrance; it was Guerlain’s vision of eternity bottled, a meeting of heritage and modernity, and a continuation of the house’s enduring dialogue between East and West.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  Classified as a woody oriental for both men and women, it combines the warmth of amber with resinous, woody, and spicy undertones, evoking the rich sensuality and depth of the Orient.

• Top notes: coriander, cardamom, cinnamon, true ambergris
• Middle notes: peach, orange blossom, ylang ylang
• Base notes: woody notes, leather

Scent Profile:

As the first veil of Ambre Éternel unfolds, I’m greeted by a swirl of spices that feels alive, shimmering with heat and texture. Coriander rises first — its green, citrusy brightness reminiscent of crushed seeds warmed by the sun. This spice, often sourced from the Mediterranean basin, has a natural linalool content that gives it a lightly floral, almost peppery lift. Here, it sparkles like morning dew before deepening into the fragrance’s richer layers. 

Cardamom follows close behind, that cool, camphorous warmth so distinctive to pods grown in India’s Malabar region. Their essential oil contains cineole and terpinyl acetate, which create that paradoxical freshness that dances over the darker tones of the composition — a whisper of silk over the skin. Then comes cinnamon, not the sharp bakery spice of cheap blends, but the fine Ceylon variety, red-gold and soft, rich in cinnamaldehyde. It lends a velvet heat, an echo of spice markets at dusk, grounding the brightness of cardamom with the burnished sweetness of ancient wood.

Threaded through this lively opening is true ambergris, the soul of the perfume. Unlike amber accords built from resins and vanillin, genuine ambergris — a rare substance aged by sea and sun — offers something ineffable: a soft, saline warmth, musky yet airy, animalic yet luminous. Its natural ambrein molecules diffuse the other notes, giving them space and depth, like scent carried on the breath of ocean wind. Where synthetics often give sharpness or exaggeration, this ambergris is subtle, endlessly smooth, transforming the spicy top into something almost tactile, like sun-warmed skin after a day beneath desert light.

As the heart begins to bloom, a gentle succulence of peach emerges — not syrupy or candied, but the soft blush of ripe fruit just split open. This note adds a rounded sweetness, echoing the warmth of the spices while lending a human tenderness. It melts seamlessly into orange blossom, radiant and honeyed, distilled from the delicate flowers of North African bitter orange trees. Rich in linalool and nerolidol, the essence offers both sparkle and creaminess — a golden luminosity that bridges the fruit to the florals. The ylang ylang, often sourced from the Comoros or Madagascar, breathes narcotic lushness into the heart; its benzyl acetate and methyl salicylate components give it a solar, almost tropical character. Together, these florals temper the amber’s animalic pull, weaving an aura of sensual restraint — the scent of warm petals caught on perfumed skin.

As the perfume deepens, wood and leather take center stage, the composition now pulsing with a dry, shadowed sensuality. The woody accord evokes aged cedar and sandalwood, their natural sesquiterpenes releasing a creamy, resinous hum that anchors the fragrance. There’s a suggestion of smoke — perhaps the lingering echo of incense — that mingles with the leather note, soft and supple like tanned hide. This final chord feels ancient, eternal, as if born of fire and skin, resin and time. It’s here that Ambre Éternel earns its name: the amber warmth never fades, only softens into a glow that seems to live on the skin, a scent that hums rather than shouts.

In its entirety, Ambre Éternel is an ode to contrast and continuity — cool and warm, light and dark, flesh and spirit. Every ingredient serves the amber’s eternal theme: the spices ignite it, the florals soften it, and the woods cradle it in silence. It is the perfume of endurance — the embodiment of warmth made eternal.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Shalimar Yellow Gold Flacon 2008

To celebrate its remarkable 180th anniversary in 2008, Guerlain honored its most legendary creation, Shalimar, with a magnificent limited edition presentation: the “Shalimar Yellow Gold”. This edition paid tribute not through a reformulation of the perfume, but through a visual and tactile expression of its enduring opulence. The fragrance itself — unchanged from Jacques Guerlain’s 1925 masterpiece — was housed in a resplendent matte gold flacon, its surface glowing softly like brushed metal beneath candlelight. The gold finish reimagined the sensuality of Shalimar’s oriental character in a new light: instead of the glint of crystal, the bottle exuded warmth, weight, and quiet grandeur, symbolizing Guerlain’s gilded legacy.

The Eau de Toilette edition, in its full matte gold attire, reflected the graceful curves of the classic Shalimar bottle — the scalloped fan-shaped stopper and the voluptuous basin form designed by Raymond Guerlain, inspired by the fountains of the Shalimar Gardens in Lahore. Yet in this anniversary interpretation, every contour seemed touched by sunlight — a bottle transformed into a precious object, both perfume and jewel. The muted sheen of the gold was deliberately matte rather than mirrored, giving it a sense of timelessness, like an antique artifact discovered in a Maharaja’s treasury rather than a freshly minted ornament.

A second edition, even more exclusive, was created for the Extrait de Parfum, presented in a smaller 30 ml bottle also finished in matte gold and individually numbered. This edition was priced at 278 euros, a nod to the rarity and artistry of the piece rather than any change to the fragrance inside. The extrait’s denser formula, rich in vanilla, tonka, and opoponax, took on a new dimension when enclosed within the gold — as if the bottle itself suggested the inner radiance of the scent it held.

Though the perfume remained unchanged, the symbolism of this presentation was profound. Shalimar — long regarded as the quintessence of oriental luxury — was now clothed in the color of the element that best represents eternity, glory, and craftsmanship. The golden casing paid homage to Guerlain’s mastery of both perfumery and presentation — a reminder that every Guerlain flacon is as much a piece of art as the fragrance it holds.

In this way, Shalimar Yellow Gold served as both a celebration and a reaffirmation: a declaration that after 180 years, Guerlain’s heart still beats within the shimmer of artistry, the depth of heritage, and the timeless seduction of gold.

Guerlain Fragrances: Rare vs. Common

It is common to see sellers on platforms like eBay describing certain Guerlain perfumes as “rare,” when in reality some of the most frequently encountered, such as Shalimar, Mitsouko, and Jicky, are anything but rare. These fragrances, in fact, are among the most widely produced and distributed Guerlain creations, with continuous availability spanning decades, making them the opposite of scarce.

Throughout its long history, Guerlain has launched several hundred perfumes. While a handful of these remain in production today, others are more difficult to find, having been discontinued or produced only for a limited time. Some of these lost or short-lived compositions are genuinely rare and highly sought after by collectors.

Fantastic Five:

When considering the most popular and enduring Guerlain fragrances, there are what might be called the “fantastic five.” These are the house’s cornerstones, perfumes that have been continuously offered for well over a century in some cases and remain iconic standards in perfumery. They include Shalimar, Mitsouko, Jicky, L’Heure Bleue, and Eau de Cologne Impériale. Far from rare, these perfumes have secured their place as timeless classics, consistently produced and readily available, ensuring their legacy within the Guerlain tradition.

• Eau de Cologne Impériale
• Jicky
• L’Heure Bleue
• Mitsouko
• Shalimar

Second Most Commonly Found:

The second most commonly found group of Guerlain perfumes consists of fragrances that, while not as universally recognized or consistently marketed as the “fantastic five,” are nevertheless widely available and often encountered both in current production and on the resale market. These perfumes represent a mix of long-standing classics, popular modern creations, and specialty lines, showing Guerlain’s ability to appeal to both traditionalists and newer audiences.

This category includes enduring staples such as Après L’Ondée, Chamade, Chant d’Arômes, Jardins de Bagatelle, Mouchoir de Monsieur, Nahema, Parure, Samsara, Sous le Vent, Vega, and Vol de Nuit. These perfumes, though perhaps less well-known to casual buyers than Shalimar or Mitsouko, still maintain a strong presence due to their historical importance or lasting popularity.

Alongside these, Guerlain’s men’s fragrances such as Derby, Habit Rouge, Héritage, Vetiver, and Guerlain Homme are frequently found, reflecting the house’s balanced portfolio between feminine and masculine compositions. Limited seasonal offerings like Muguet and later collections such as Les Voyages Olfactifs, Elixirs Charnels, and L’Art et la Matière are also well represented, as they have been actively produced and marketed within the past few decades.

Modern releases like Idylle, Insolence, La Petite Robe Noire, L’Instant, Mahora, Ode, Champs Élysées (the 1996 version), and the extensive Aqua Allegoria line further reinforce Guerlain’s presence in contemporary perfumery. While not rare, these fragrances form the backbone of the brand’s broader catalogue, widely circulated and readily available to collectors and enthusiasts alike.

The second most commonly found are :

• Apres L'Ondee
• Aqua Allegoria scents
• Chamade
• Champs Elysees (1996 version)
• Chant d'Aromes
• Coriolan
• Derby
• Eau de Guerlain
• Elixirs Charnels line
• Guerlain Homme
• Habit Rouge
• Heritage
• Idylle
• Insolence
• Jardins de Bagatelle
• La Petite Robe Noire
• L 'Art et la Matière scents
• L'Instant
• Les Voyages Olfactifs scents
• Liu
• Mahora
• Mouchoir de Monsieur
• Muguet
• Nahema
• Ode
• Parure
• Petit Guerlain
• Samsara
• Sous le Vent
• Vega
• Vetiver
• Vol de Nuit

Very Valuable:

The perfumes that fall into the “less commonly found, but very valuable” category are largely creations from the early to mid-20th century. Many of these fragrances have long since been discontinued and were produced in comparatively small numbers, which already makes them scarce. What elevates their desirability further is the bottle in which they were housed. Guerlain frequently commissioned extraordinary flacons from renowned glassmakers such as Baccarat, Pochet et du Courval, and Lalique. When these rare presentations survive intact, they can significantly increase the value of a perfume, with collectors seeking both the juice and the artistry of the bottle itself.

Among these valuable treasures are scents such as À Travers Champs, Ai Loe, Atuana, Bon Vieux Temps, Bouquet de Faunes, and Candide Effluve, each reflecting Guerlain’s imaginative approach during the first decades of the 20th century. Some fragrances, like Cachet Jaune, Chypre 53, Coque d’Or, and Cuir de Russie, reveal the house’s exploration of bold structures and innovative accords. Others—Djedi, Dawamesk, Fleur de Feu, Fleur qui Meurt, and Fol Arôme—stand out as especially rare, often commanding high prices when they appear on the market, particularly if preserved in their original luxury flacons.

Floral compositions such as Gardenia, Heliotrope, Jasmin, Jasmiralda, Kadine, Lilas, Mi Mai, and Une Fleur further demonstrate Guerlain’s deep engagement with classic perfumery themes, while Kriss, Loin de Tout, Parfum des Champs Élysées, Quand Vient l’Été, and Rue de la Paix embody the house’s artistry in balancing tradition with innovation.

Equally captivating are Sillage, Tsao-Ko, Vague Souvenir, Verveine, Voila Pourquoi J’aimais Rosine, Voilette de Madame, and Le Jardin de Mon Curé, perfumes that are seldom encountered today but remain testaments to Guerlain’s prolific creativity during this period. Each of these scents, when coupled with a rare or artistically significant flacon, becomes not just a perfume but a valuable artifact of olfactory and decorative history.

Very Valuable List:

• A Travers Champs
• Ai Loe
• Atuana
• Bon Vieux Temps
• Bouquet de Faunes
• Candide Effluve
• Cachet Jaune
• Chypre 53
• Coque d'Or
• Cuir de Russie
• Djedi
• Dawamesk
• Fleur de Feu
• Fleur qui Meurt
• Fol Arome
• Gardenia
• Guerlarose
• Guerlilas
• Guerlinade
• Heliotrope
• Jasmin
• Jasmiralda
• Kadine
• Kriss
• Lavande
• Le Jardin de Mon Cure,
• Lilas
• Loin de Tout
• Mi Mai
• Parfum des Champs Elysees
• Pour Troubler
• Quand Vient L'Ete
• Rue de la Paix
• Sillage
• Tsao-Ko
• Vague Souvenir
• Verveine
• Voila Pourquoi J'aimais Rosine
• Voilette de Madame
• Une Fleur

Rarest of the Rare:

The rarest Guerlain perfumes are those originating from the 19th century, many of which have not survived into the present day. These early creations are exceptionally scarce, and when examples do appear, they command very high prices due to both their age and historical importance. Unlike the more familiar 20th-century classics that were produced in greater numbers, most 19th-century Guerlain fragrances were made in limited runs, often tailored to a more exclusive clientele, which further contributes to their rarity today.

These perfumes were typically housed in the carré flacon, a simple square bottle that served as the standard presentation of the time. While the design itself was understated compared to the ornate bottles that came later, its presence immediately identifies a perfume as belonging to Guerlain’s earliest period. Because these flacons are fragile and over 120–180 years old, very few have survived intact, making them highly desirable among serious collectors and perfume historians alike.

The number of Guerlain’s 19th-century creations runs into the hundreds, far too many to list comprehensively. Their rarity lies not only in the perfumes themselves but also in the fact that they represent the foundation of Guerlain’s legacy, offering a glimpse into the house’s earliest experiments in perfumery. For collectors, owning one of these bottles is considered a pinnacle achievement, as they stand among the most precious relics of Guerlain’s long and storied history.

Shalimar 90th Anniversary Exceptional Edition Flacon 2015

In 2015, Guerlain unveiled an extraordinary collector’s masterpiece to commemorate the 90th anniversary of Shalimar, one of the most iconic perfumes in fragrance history. Created just in time for the holiday season, this opulent edition celebrated both the timeless love story that inspired the perfume and the pinnacle of French craftsmanship. The bottle itself, an enlarged interpretation of the classic Shalimar flacon, was realized in deep cobalt blue crystal by the prestigious glassworks Waltersperger—an atelier celebrated for its mastery of large-scale crystal creations for nearly a century. Standing as both a vessel and a work of art, the monumental flacon held an impressive 1.5 litres of Shalimar extrait, reflecting the luxurious spirit and grandeur associated with Guerlain’s heritage.

Encircling the neck of the bottle was a sculptural, 22-carat gilded branch, delicately shaped and hand-applied, lending the impression of fine jewelry rather than mere ornamentation. Resting upon this golden branch were two exquisitely detailed glass birds—symbols of the eternal love between Emperor Shah Jahan and his beloved Mumtaz Mahal, whose devotion inspired Shalimar. Each bird was meticulously handmade by the renowned Maison Desrues, the French haute couture jeweler founded in 1929, and adorned with rich layers of silver, blue, and gold enamel. Their luminous plumage and poised stance brought a poetic vitality to the composition, elevating the bottle into a sculptural allegory of romance and devotion.

Guerlain described the creation as a “real feat that combines unique expertise with the most advanced technologies.” The cobalt glass, molded and finished with exceptional precision by Waltersperger, gave depth and mystery to the perfume within, while the adornments by Desrues reflected the harmonious partnership between haute parfumerie and haute couture. Only seventeen of these numbered flacons were made available worldwide, each representing the pinnacle of artisanal excellence and rarity.

Inside, the essence of Shalimar remained unchanged—its legendary symphony of notes unfolding with the familiar radiance of bergamot and citrus at the top, melting into a tender heart of iris, opopanax, and vanilla, and concluding with the sensual warmth of tonka bean and balsamic resins. This monumental edition thus captured not only the romance of Shalimar’s origins but also the enduring craftsmanship and artistry that continue to define Guerlain’s legacy.

 From Guerlain: 

"The famous Guerlain Shalimar bottle deploys its monumental scale and is cloaked in midnight blue by the French glassmaker Waltersperger specialist in exceptional formats for almost a hundred years. A real feat that combines unique expertise handbook of best advanced technologies. A delicate golden branch with fine 22.5 karat gold carefully wraps around the bottle's neck and grips his shoulder. A couple of birds called inseparable just asked them. Poetic allegory of the eternal love between Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal, this masterpiece craft reveals the expertise and talent of Maison Desrues, French Haute Couture jeweler since 1929. Only 17 numbered pieces are available in the world.  In his music version Shalimar is a flight of citrus notes that fuels a heart and gently wrapping powdered. The footprint of a carnal bewitching vanilla, the penetrating charm of the iris, the balmy roundness opopanax, gourmet hot tonka bean orchestrate an intimate symphony of scents in which to languish.  Maison Desrues brings his artistic talent and expertise to the adornment inseparable birds adorning the bottle Shalimar Edition 90th anniversary. This French Haute Couture artisan founded in 1929 is combined for the first time to Guerlain sublimate for this creation of a rare and modern technique."

You may remember the previous cobalt blue crystal Waltersperger bottle for the Shalimar Nuit de Indes Exceptional Edition from 2014 shown below.