Saturday, February 9, 2013

180 Ans de Creations c2008

180 Ans de Créations 1828-2008 by Guerlain was launched in 2008 to commemorate the Maison’s extraordinary 180-year history. The name, translated from French as “180 Years of Creations” (pronounced roughly as “say-san-wee-zah de kray-ah-syon”), evokes a sense of heritage, refinement, and mastery in perfumery. It conjures images of generations of artisans, laboratories filled with precious raw materials, and the enduring elegance of a house that has shaped fragrance history. The title carries both gravitas and intimacy, suggesting a celebration of creativity, continuity, and dedication to the art of scent.

This perfume emerged in a period when luxury brands were increasingly emphasizing heritage and exclusivity, blending tradition with contemporary sensibilities. In 2008, perfumery was characterized by an appreciation for limited editions, bespoke creations, and collector-oriented releases, and Guerlain’s decision to craft this fragrance as a non-commercial, gift-only edition underscored its significance. The bottle itself, hand-sealed by the “dames de table”, visually reinforces the perfume’s status as a unique, ceremonial object — a miniature jewel celebrating craftsmanship and legacy. Women and men of the time would have perceived 180 Ans de Créations as an emblem of refined taste and connoisseurship, connecting the fragrance to both personal luxury and the historic prestige of Parisian perfumery.

Classified as an ambery fragrance for both men and women, 180 Ans de Créations reflects the warmth, sensuality, and opulence typically associated with amber accords, combining richness with subtlety to create a scent that is at once timeless and contemporary. Its composition, crafted by Jean-Paul Guerlain, adheres to traditional Guerlain style while embracing modern sensibilities, placing it alongside other high-end commemorative releases of the period. Yet its exclusivity, deliberate scarcity, and role as a collector’s item make it unique, distinguishing it from broader market trends and highlighting Guerlain’s enduring commitment to artistry and legacy.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? 180 Ans de Creations is classified as an ambery fragrance for men and women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, pink pepper and grapefruit
  • Middle notes: jasmine, orange blossom,
  • Base notes: musk, vetiver, tonka bean, ambergris, vanilla

Scent Profile:


180 Ans de Créations opens with a sparkling burst of bergamot, its Italian origin lending a lively, sun-soaked brightness that is distinctly fresh yet slightly bitter, with limonene and linalyl acetate naturally contributing a crisp citrus aroma. Layered with pink pepper, the fragrance acquires an immediate piquancy and warmth—its subtle rosy facets and eugenol content creating a gentle spiciness that dances atop the citrus. Grapefruit adds an effervescent tartness, enriching the opening with a lively, invigorating zing that balances the aromatic sharpness of the pepper and the soft, green citrus facets of bergamot.

At the heart, jasmine unfurls, rich and opulent, carrying its natural indoles and benzyl acetate, which lend depth, sensuality, and an almost creamy floral warmth. This is perfectly complemented by orange blossom from Southern Europe or North Africa, known for its sweet, radiant, and slightly green facets, infused with linalool and nerolidol that lend softness and a luminous quality. Together, these middle notes form a luminous floral bouquet, both velvety and uplifting, harmonizing the initial brightness with a luxurious elegance.

The base reveals the perfume’s sensual and enduring character. Musk provides a soft, animalic warmth, enhancing the skin-like intimacy of the composition. Vetiver, with its earthy, smoky undertones, grounds the fragrance, while the Haitian or Indonesian tonka bean contributes a sweet, slightly ambery warmth from coumarin, bridging the floral heart and the animalic base. Ambergris, a rare and prized ingredient from New Zealand or the Atlantic, adds a marine, sweet, and complex depth, elevating the perfume’s longevity and lending a natural, slightly resinous balsamic richness. Finally, vanilla wraps the composition in a soft, comforting sweetness, its vanillin accentuating the amber nuances and tying together the floral, citrus, and spicy layers into a coherent, enveloping ambery fragrance that feels both modern and timeless.

This carefully balanced interplay of ingredients—natural and enhanced by subtle modern synthetics—creates a luminous ambery masterpiece, celebrating Guerlain’s 180-year heritage in a scent that is simultaneously celebratory, elegant, and deeply sensual.

Bottle:


The 75ml Eau de Parfum is housed in the square Elixirs Charnels bottle decorated with an elegant strip of metal bearing the perfume's name.



Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

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