The perfume emerged during the late 1920s, a period marked by post-war cultural flourishing and the exuberance of the Art Deco era. Fashion at the time emphasized sleek silhouettes, geometric patterns, and a new liberation in women’s style, reflecting both modernity and elegance. In perfumery, this era saw the rise of aldehydic fragrances—sparkling, bright, and sophisticated—pioneered by the likes of Chanel No. 5 (1921). Liu fits seamlessly within this context, yet it distinguished itself through its restrained yet luxurious composition, anchored by a dominant jasmine note that exudes velvety floral richness while maintaining subtlety and refinement.
Women of the late 1920s would have related to Liu as a perfume of quiet confidence and elegance—a scent that spoke of inner sophistication rather than overt flamboyance. The aldehydic floral structure lent a modern, airy lift to the jasmine heart, while the delicate balance of supporting notes allowed the fragrance to feel intimate, tender, and personal. Within the market, Liu offered a unique interpretation of the aldehydic floral trend: it was lighter, more floral-focused than some of the bolder contemporaries, yet it retained the luxurious, ethereal quality expected of a high-end Parisian perfume house. It remains a timeless example of Jacques Guerlain’s ability to combine emotion, artistry, and technical mastery in a single scent.
At the same time, Puccini’s opera Turandot was playing at the Paris Opera, and the Guerlains drew inspiration from the tragic heroine, Liu. This connection lent the fragrance both a narrative and an emotional depth: Liu, with her purity, selflessness, and quiet strength, became the perfect emblem for a perfume of understated elegance.
The perfume was presented in a squat black glass bottle, small and enigmatic, resting in a black-and-gilt box. The effect is almost reverential, as though the fragrance were a miniature Buddha preserved in its shrine—a visual echo of the perfume’s subtle, meditative beauty. The combination of Oriental hints, floral softness, and elegant packaging established Liu as a perfume that was at once modern, sophisticated, and imbued with narrative charm, perfectly capturing the spirit of Parisian high culture in the late 1920s.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Liu is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, neroli, bergamot
- Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, rosemary
- Base notes: iris, vanilla, sandalwood, ambergris
Scent Profile:
Liu by Guerlain opens with a sparkling burst of aldehydes, their clean, effervescent facets immediately lifting the senses. These aldehydes, the hallmark of early 20th-century Parisian perfumery, bring a luminous, almost abstract shimmer to the fragrance, adding a modern, airy elegance that contrasts beautifully with the floral heart. Layered over this, neroli unfolds with a bright, green-tinged sweetness; sourced traditionally from the blossoms of bitter orange trees in Tunisia or southern Italy, neroli is prized for its delicate, honeyed aroma with subtle citric nuances. Bergamot follows, sharp and sunlit, its Italian origin imparting a zesty, slightly bitter freshness that balances the aldehydic lift, creating a sparkling prelude that feels both airy and intimate.The heart of Liu is a rich, opulent floral bouquet. Orange blossom weaves a creamy, white-floral softness, warm and radiant, while rose adds depth, its velvety petals exuding a timeless romanticism. Jasmine dominates the composition, imparting a velvety, narcotic sweetness that feels expansive yet comforting, its natural indoles giving Liu its heady, slightly exotic character. The addition of ylang ylang contributes a tropical, slightly fruity facet, its essential oils from Madagascar and the Comoros adding creamy floral warmth with hints of sweet banana-like nuances. Rosemary interjects an aromatic green freshness, its camphorous, pine-like aroma enhancing the vibrancy of the bouquet and providing a gentle herbal lift that prevents the composition from feeling overly saccharine.
Finally, the base notes ground the fragrance with a soft, enduring richness. Iris adds a powdery, sophisticated elegance, sourced from the precious rhizomes of Italy or France, where the slow-drying process yields a complex, violet-like aroma with creamy, earthy undertones. Vanilla, warm and sweet, deepens the heart’s florals with a comforting gourmand richness, while sandalwood, often from Mysore, India, contributes a soft, milky woody warmth, blending seamlessly with ambergris, whose marine, slightly animalic nuances impart a sensual, lingering depth. Together, the ambergris and sandalwood provide a velvety canvas for the florals to shine. The entire structure is elegantly lifted by the subtle interplay of natural extracts and carefully measured synthetic aldehydes, which enhance the clarity, diffusion, and longevity of the scent.
Experiencing Liu firsthand is like stepping into a Parisian salon of the 1920s: the bright opening sparkles like sunlight on a gilded mirror, the floral heart envelops you in sophisticated intimacy, and the warm, velvety base lingers on the skin with quiet yet undeniable presence. Each ingredient plays its part in a harmonious, layered symphony—ethereal yet grounded, delicate yet enduring—capturing both the artistry of Jacques Guerlain and the ethereal essence of the opera heroine for whom it was named.
Bottles:
Flacon Tabatiere (Snuff) c1927-1972
Bottle designed by Bernard D'Escayrac (the then Vice President of Guerlain, Inc in New York) and produced by Baccarat to hold extraits of Liu. The bottle was molded after a Chinese snuff bottle and was made only in black crystal. Bottle also made by Pochet et du Courval over the years.
Baccarat:
- 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 7.8cm (limited edition of only 6000 Single copies, often unsigned)
- 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 5.9cm/2.32" (1934, export version)
- 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 6.4cm/2.52" (1937)
- 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 7.8cm/3.07" - changed to 75ml/2.5 oz limited edition of 3000 copies (1994)
- 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 9cm/3.54"
- 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 11cm/4.33"
Presented in the Tabatiere flacon (parfum), the Montre flacon (eau de cologne), the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), the quadrilobe flacon (parfum), the Amphore flacon (parfum), the parapluie flacon (parfum), the flacon de guerre (parfum) and various spray flacons over the years, also available in the ancillaries: talcum powder, lotion vegetale, stilboide fluide, soap, bath oil, etc.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Liu by Guerlain, as captured in contemporary accounts, was celebrated as one of the most luxurious and refined perfumes of its era. Theatre Magazine in 1929 described it as a “gift de luxe,” emphasizing its status as an opulent, desirable treasure. The name Liu, of Chinese origin and pronounced simply “LU,” evokes images of elegance, mystery, and the distant allure of the Orient. The fragrance itself was described as an embodiment of oriental seductiveness, rich and exotic, yet unmistakably French in its refinement. It was seen as a perfume that balanced Eastern inspiration with Parisian sophistication, making it uniquely alluring to the fashionable women of the late 1920s.
By 1930, Fashions of the Hour noted Liu’s “exquisite, faintly oriental scent,” underscoring its delicate blend of heady florals and soft warmth. The perfume was housed in a striking black crystal bottle with a gold and black case, lending a ceremonial, almost sacred presence to its already compelling aura. The presentation reinforced the perfume’s exotic and luxurious character, suggesting a ritual of refinement and sophistication for the wearer. Priced at $30 for two ounces, Liu was positioned as an accessible indulgence for the elegant, modern Parisienne.
Writers of the era often highlighted the poetry of Liu’s character. Harper’s Bazaar in 1931 described the fragrance as whispering “that her jests lack joy,” evoking both melancholy and depth, yet paradoxically leaving space for glamour and gallantry. Similarly, Marie-Claire in 1937 praised Liu as “the king of perfumes—heady, subtle, and fresh all at once,” with a dominant note that was “almost indescribable”—quiet, modest, and essential, elevating everything around it. This duality—both discreet and profound—was part of Liu’s enduring charm, giving it a personality that felt alive on the skin.
By 1945, La Femme Chic captured the visual and olfactory elegance of Liu, noting that its crystalline clarity was “concealed within a black crystal bottle inspired by Chinese design,” lending an aura of exotic mystery. Despite the Eastern inspiration, the perfume remained thoroughly Parisian in style, a bridge between distant fantasies and local sophistication. Connoisseurs described Liu as “a perfume with ascending scents,” where the jasmine at its heart creates a velvety, richly floral, and delightfully sweet character,” a signature of Jacques Guerlain’s mastery. Across these decades, Liu was celebrated not only for its scent but also for its capacity to evoke imagery, emotions, and a rarefied sense of elegance that made it a timeless classic in the pantheon of Guerlain perfumes.
Still available for sale in the 1950s. Discontinued (date unknown).
1994 Reissue:
From Guerlain:
"The exotic inspired Shalimar, is a strong trend of the first quarter of the century. -Art Deco -introduces the taste of the addition, research; Asia fascinates as much as we gradually discover Japan, whose openness to the West began in the era Meiji period, at the end of the 19th century. Japanese and Chinese female silhouettes, and their clothes to straight cuts, will influence the Western fashion designers and artists, beginning with Puccini and Madame Butterfly.
The opera Turandot will confirm this fascination with Asian heroines, their sense of the sublime and the sacrifice, with the character of Liu. This young servant in love with Prince Calaf will prefer to die rather than reveal his nickname: -Love- It is in homage to this figure who embodies the virtues of women's only Jacques Guerlain created in 1929, the perfume Liu. Its Baccarat bottle, black glass, inspired by a Chinese tea box that once belonged to the Guerlain family, contains a delicately floral and powdery perfume."
2005 Reissue:
In 2005, it was reissued as a limited edition in its original tabatiere bottle, but the juice was reformulated. It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women.
Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, neroli
heart notes: rose de mai, jasmine
Base notes: vanilla, woods, iris, amber
Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, neroli
heart notes: rose de mai, jasmine
Base notes: vanilla, woods, iris, amber
From Guerlain:
"Liu is one of the Exclusive Collections, fragrances for perfume enthusiasts rare, sensitive to the noble materials and the refinement of the details. The Exclusive Collections are available in France exclusively in Parisian Guerlain Boutiques and now on your online shop Guerlain.
A great lover of opera, Jacques Guerlain could only mesmerized by Puccini's Turandot. Difficult to resist the charm of Liu, a beautiful heroic wife, for whom he composed this poem olfactory aldehydes interpret one of their best roles. They dominate the head and announce such cymbals, the entrance to the rose and jasmine deploying brilliantly fresh air of sensuality. As a musical work, the fragrance has to have a calm and voluptuous extension. Pari held because very soon gives vanilla its carnal accents to those of the iris and wood.
The fragrance is magnified in the iconic bottle with "Bees" in a proprietary format of 125ml. Reissue of 1929. Floral aldehyde. Rare, feminine, timeless.
- Top notes: aldehydes
- Heart notes: rose, jasmine
- Base notes: vanilla, woody, iris
After L'Heure Bleue which introduced for the first time aldehydes in the composition of perfumes, Jacques Guerlain again uses these synthetic molecules to compose Liu. A timeless and legendary fragrance, in which aldehydes are "singing white flowers".
It now only exists as an Eau de Parfum in the exclusive 'Les Parisiennes' collection, housed in a 125 ml bee bottle.
"A great lover of opera, Jacques Guerlain created Liu as an homage to Turandot in 1929. Liu was a beautiful and desirable young woman who, even under torture, will not reveal the secret of her master's name: Love ... Real poem dedicated olfactory femininity."
In 2012, Guerlain released, the Liu Perfumed Shimmer Powder for Face and Body (37.5g),
"The star product of the Guerlain Liu Christmas collection, this show-stopping, limited edition loose powder dresses the body with sensuality. Drawing its inspiration from Jacques Guerlain's iconic Liu Eau de Parfum from the 1920's, this precious beauty ritual softly illuminates the body with a mysterious, refined and festive air. The black lacquered bottle is a talisman all of its own. Styled in the image of the original Liu perfume bottle, which in turn was inspired by traditional Japanese tea trays, this legendary fragrance is transformed into a desirable objet d'art."
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