Lotion de Guerlain c1850

Lotion de Guerlain, created in 1850, was a skin-bleaching cream reflecting the beauty ideals and cosmetic practices of the mid-19th century. Its formulation included several active ingredients that were considered effective at the time for lightening and smoothing the complexion, though some would be regarded as hazardous by modern standards.

The cream contained Extract de Saturne, which was a solution of lead subacetate. Lead compounds were widely used in cosmetics during this era for their perceived ability to lighten and whiten skin, as they could reduce pigmentation and create a smooth, porcelain-like appearance. However, we now know that lead is highly toxic, and prolonged use can result in lead poisoning, skin irritation, and long-term health consequences. Despite its dangers, it was a common cosmetic ingredient in the 18th and 19th centuries, used in powders, creams, and paints.

Another ingredient was tincture of benzoin, a resin derived from trees of the genus Styrax. Benzoin has a sweet, warm aroma and was believed to have soothing and antiseptic properties for the skin. It also helped to preserve the formulation and provide a subtle fragrance.

The formula also included distilled waters of laurel, cherry, and peach, which were botanical infusions providing gentle astringent and moisturizing effects. Laurel water could help tighten and tone the skin, while cherry and peach waters offered mild soothing and hydrating qualities, adding a touch of natural fragrance.

In context, Lotion de Guerlain was considered a luxury cosmetic, combining both functional skin-lightening effects and the refinement of subtle fragrances. While the botanical elements were safe and beneficial, the use of lead subacetate would make this product hazardous by modern standards. It is an example of how 19th-century beauty practices balanced perceived efficacy, scent, and elegance, often at the expense of safety.

Lotion de Guerlain was presented in a cream or unguent form and housed in a compact, elegantly designed jar, reminiscent of Guerlain’s celebrated Rose du Moulin rouge container, though in this case made of colorless glass rather than emerald green. The cylindrical jar features a grooved base, while the molded lid is adorned with a radiating gadroon decoration, a motif characteristic of the Empire style, lending the piece an air of classical refinement and luxury.

Around the center of the base, a band paper label identifies the product, preserving the historic authenticity of the jar. Measuring 4.5 cm tall (approximately 1.77 inches), this small container was both practical and visually sophisticated, designed to sit gracefully on a vanity. The jar was produced by Pochet et du Courval, a renowned French glassmaker, ensuring high-quality pressed glass craftsmanship typical of early Guerlain cosmetic presentations. Its design reflects the 19th-century focus on elegance, utility, and collectible beauty in perfumery and cosmetics packaging.