Lait de Perles

Lait de Perles (Pearl Milk) was a popular 19th- and early 20th-century skin preparation marketed as a “bleaching” or lightening lotion, part of a wider beauty trend that prized pale, even-toned complexions. Its formula relied on a suspension of powders in water, creating a milky appearance that inspired its name.

The later formulas commonly contained zinc oxide, a white mineral powder long used for its covering power and soothing qualities; it acted as a mild sunblock and gave the skin a temporary whitened appearance. Rose water lent fragrance while also offering a gentle astringent effect, prized for its cooling, refreshing touch. Bismuth oxychloride, a shimmering white powder, imparted a pearly sheen and helped disguise imperfections. Magnesic carbonate and talc added bulk, softness, and absorbency, mattifying the skin. The mixture was perfumed with otto of roses (rose essential oil), giving the cosmetic both a luxurious scent and an air of refinement.

Older recipes were far less benign. They included carbonate of white lead, a highly toxic compound once widely used in face powders and creams for its intense whitening effect. While it gave the skin a smooth porcelain appearance, lead compounds absorbed through the skin could cause serious cumulative health issues, including poisoning—though such dangers were not well understood at the time. The inclusion of geranium essence alongside rosewater and rose oil was meant to heighten the floral fragrance while masking the raw mineral smell of the base powders.

For its era, Lait de Perles was typical of beauty products promising fairness and refinement. The use of whitening powders, sometimes toxic, was common practice, reflecting the cultural association of pale skin with youth, purity, and social status. While the later formula with zinc oxide, bismuth, and talc was relatively safer, the earlier reliance on lead-based compounds reveals the lengths to which cosmetic makers and users of the 19th century went in their pursuit of beauty.

Lotion de Guerlain c1850

Lotion de Guerlain, created in 1850, was a skin-bleaching cream reflecting the beauty ideals and cosmetic practices of the mid-19th century. Its formulation included several active ingredients that were considered effective at the time for lightening and smoothing the complexion, though some would be regarded as hazardous by modern standards.

The cream contained Extract de Saturne, which was a solution of lead subacetate. Lead compounds were widely used in cosmetics during this era for their perceived ability to lighten and whiten skin, as they could reduce pigmentation and create a smooth, porcelain-like appearance. However, we now know that lead is highly toxic, and prolonged use can result in lead poisoning, skin irritation, and long-term health consequences. Despite its dangers, it was a common cosmetic ingredient in the 18th and 19th centuries, used in powders, creams, and paints.

Another ingredient was tincture of benzoin, a resin derived from trees of the genus Styrax. Benzoin has a sweet, warm aroma and was believed to have soothing and antiseptic properties for the skin. It also helped to preserve the formulation and provide a subtle fragrance.

The formula also included distilled waters of laurel, cherry, and peach, which were botanical infusions providing gentle astringent and moisturizing effects. Laurel water could help tighten and tone the skin, while cherry and peach waters offered mild soothing and hydrating qualities, adding a touch of natural fragrance.

In context, Lotion de Guerlain was considered a luxury cosmetic, combining both functional skin-lightening effects and the refinement of subtle fragrances. While the botanical elements were safe and beneficial, the use of lead subacetate would make this product hazardous by modern standards. It is an example of how 19th-century beauty practices balanced perceived efficacy, scent, and elegance, often at the expense of safety.

Lotion de Guerlain was presented in a cream or unguent form and housed in a compact, elegantly designed jar, reminiscent of Guerlain’s celebrated Rose du Moulin rouge container, though in this case made of colorless glass rather than emerald green. The cylindrical jar features a grooved base, while the molded lid is adorned with a radiating gadroon decoration, a motif characteristic of the Empire style, lending the piece an air of classical refinement and luxury.

Around the center of the base, a band paper label identifies the product, preserving the historic authenticity of the jar. Measuring 4.5 cm tall (approximately 1.77 inches), this small container was both practical and visually sophisticated, designed to sit gracefully on a vanity. The jar was produced by Pochet et du Courval, a renowned French glassmaker, ensuring high-quality pressed glass craftsmanship typical of early Guerlain cosmetic presentations. Its design reflects the 19th-century focus on elegance, utility, and collectible beauty in perfumery and cosmetics packaging.

Baume de la Ferte c1830

Baume de la Ferté was one of Guerlain’s earliest skincare products, created around 1830 with a very practical and compassionate purpose. Originally intended for nursing mothers and wet nurses, it was designed to soothe the pain of dry, cracked, and sore nipples caused by breastfeeding. The formula was based on a simple but effective apothecary-style blend of ingredients: tannins from Bordeaux wine production, prized for their astringent and mildly antiseptic qualities; benzoin resin, with its balsamic, protective properties that calmed irritation and provided a subtle vanilla-like scent; beeswax, which created a protective barrier to lock in moisture; and almond oil, long valued for its nourishing and softening effects on dry or inflamed skin. Together, this combination offered both healing and comfort, making the balm a trusted ally for mothers at a time when breastfeeding was central to childcare.

Over time, the balm’s reputation grew, and it found a secondary use as a lip salve, protecting against chapping and dryness during the colder months. Its gentle, moisturizing character made it versatile and beloved well beyond its original medical purpose. Guerlain’s careful formulation ensured the balm was both practical and indulgent, with the faintly sweet, resinous aroma of benzoin elevating what might otherwise have been a purely utilitarian product into a small luxury of daily life.

The packaging itself reflects Guerlain’s history and evolution. The earliest pots, dating to the mid-19th century, were made of stamped tin and bore the prestigious 15 rue de la Paix address (used from 1840 to 1914). After Guerlain moved to the 68 Champs-Élysées in 1914, the pot lids were updated with the new address. Later versions were produced in galalith, an early plastic made from casein, which was considered modern and hygienic at the time. Today, more recent formulations of Baume de la Ferté are housed in plastic tubes, continuing its legacy in a contemporary form.

In essence, Baume de la Ferté bridges practical care, maternal intimacy, and Guerlain’s devotion to refinement. What began as a solution for nursing women became a discreet beauty staple, offering comfort and protection while carrying the house’s heritage across nearly two centuries.

Guerlain’s Baume de la Ferté Lip Balm is presented as far more than a simple hydrator—it is positioned as a luxurious treatment steeped in the house’s heritage of refinement and care. Designed to address the everyday challenges of dryness, chapping, and environmental stress, this balm functions as both a protective shield and a beauty enhancer, ensuring the lips remain soft, supple, and perfectly nourished. Guerlain emphasizes its suitability for all skin types and all ages, making it a universal solution for anyone seeking to maintain comfort and elegance in their daily lip care.

The formula is enriched with carefully chosen ingredients that do more than just moisturize—they work in harmony to minimize fine lines, smooth texture, and enhance the natural tone of the lips. Its subtle, fleshy pink hue gives a soft veil of color, brightening and evening out the lips while maintaining a natural finish. This dual action—care and beautification—captures Guerlain’s philosophy of merging cosmetic artistry with therapeutic benefit. The creamy consistency allows for effortless application, offering instant soothing relief while delivering hydration that lasts throughout the day.

Practicality also plays a key role. Guerlain recommends applying the balm whenever needed, particularly before braving dry or harsh weather, ensuring the lips remain comfortable in all conditions. The result is a formula that not only hydrates but also plumps and rejuvenates, leaving the lips looking fuller, healthier, and naturally radiant.

Ultimately, Baume de la Ferté Lip Balm is an extension of Guerlain’s long tradition of innovative yet indulgent skincare, transforming a simple daily ritual into an experience of refinement. With its balance of heritage, science, and elegance, this lip balm embodies the idea that even the smallest details—like the softness of one’s lips—deserve nothing less than the finest care.

Veritable Graisse D'Ours

Guerlain’s Véritable Graisse d’Ours (or Graisse d’Ours Liquéfiée) was one of the many hair pomades popular during the 19th century, designed to tame unruly locks, nourish the scalp, and lend a perfumed sheen to the hair. Despite the name, most “bear’s grease” pomades did not actually contain bear fat; instead, they were usually formulated with substitutes such as beef marrow, veal suet, or lard. These animal fats, when rendered and purified, provided a thick, emollient base that softened and conditioned the hair. While not harmful in themselves, their heavy, greasy nature made them prone to rancidity unless balanced with stabilizers and fragrant oils. In their time, such bases were very common in pomades, skin salves, and ointments, prized for their ability to coat and protect.

To this fatty base, perfumers like Guerlain added a mixture of luxurious ingredients that elevated the pomade from a simple grooming product into a scented indulgence. Spermaceti, derived from the waxy oil of the sperm whale (commonly used until the mid-19th century), gave the pomade a firmer, more stable texture. Cocoa butter and olive oil added smoothness and suppleness, while white wax provided body and hold. Compound tincture of benzoin not only imparted a balsamic, resinous sweetness but also served as a natural preservative, slowing the rancid odor of animal fats.

The fragrance bouquet was opulent, unmistakably Guerlain. Bright top notes of orange oil, bergamot, and clove would have provided a lively, slightly spicy opening, cutting through the heaviness of the fat. The heart was lush with floral absolutes—rose otto, jasmine, tuberose, cassie, lavender, and orris—layered to create a soft, powdery elegance. These would have lent the hair a lingering romantic aura, especially as warmth from the scalp helped release their scent. Almond oil contributed a nutty sweetness, while tuberose and cassie offered creamy, animalic undertones.

The resulting pomade would have smelled richly floral, balsamic, and faintly spicy, with an underlying fatty smoothness. It was far more than just a practical product: such pomades were fashionable grooming essentials, associated with elegance, refinement, and even luxury. For women, it promised to keep elaborate coiffures neat while nourishing the hair; for men, it helped achieve the glossy, controlled styles so popular in the era. Though modern noses might find it heavy, in the 19th century this blend of florals, spices, and resins over an oily base would have been the height of sophistication—both a tool of grooming and a quiet form of scented self-expression.