Anthaemia Nobilis 1848

Anthaemia Nobilis by Guerlain, launched in 1848 as part of the Jardin d’Hiver Collection, exemplifies the mid-19th-century fascination with botanical purity and classical elegance. The name itself—Anthaemia Nobilis—draws from Latin, as was customary in the era for perfumes that sought to convey refinement and erudition. “Anthaemia” refers to the flowering plant, while “Nobilis” translates to “noble,” evoking dignity and elevated taste. Pronounced as "An-THAY-mee-ah No-BEE-lis", the title conjures images of sunlit Roman gardens, soft white and golden blooms, and a genteel serenity that permeated aristocratic salons. It evokes a sense of calm sophistication, echoing the soothing and delicate qualities of Roman chamomile itself.

The perfume’s star ingredient, Anthaemia nobilis or Roman chamomile, was prized for its gentle, subtly sweet floral aroma, often associated with comfort and quiet luxury. The essential oil, typically steam-distilled from the flowers, carries notes of apple-like freshness, soft herbaceous warmth, and a hint of honeyed sweetness, which combine to create a calming, almost balsamic character. In a period when perfumery was heavily influenced by opulent, animalic notes like musk, amber, and vetiver, the choice to foreground Roman chamomile signaled Guerlain’s dedication to nuanced and refined compositions, offering an alternative that was both delicate and sophisticated.

Women in 1848 would have related to Anthaemia Nobilis as a perfume of grace and modern taste. Its gentle aroma would have complemented the light silks and laces of the period, while its classical name and exotic botanical origin suggested cultural knowledge and elegance. Within the context of other fragrances on the market, Anthaemia Nobilis was both in line with trends favoring floral purity and subtly innovative in its use of a botanical often overlooked in perfumery. Its soft, soothing profile marked it as a distinctive choice for a refined woman, one seeking to assert sophistication without resorting to overpowering scents. Guerlain’s creation captured the essence of understated aristocratic luxury, demonstrating the maison’s mastery of botanical individuality and the art of subtle elegance.

Jardin d’Hiver Collection:

Guerlain’s Jardin d’Hiver Collection, launched in 1848, represents a remarkable celebration of botanical singularity and refined artistry. Each fragrance within the collection is devoted to a single floral or plant note, captured with painstaking care to highlight its unique character and essence. The collection’s Latin-styled names—Tilia microphylla, Lathyrus odorans, Mimosa fragrans, Cyperus ruber, and the most recent addition (1853), Mimosa Esterhazya—lend an air of classical sophistication, evoking the scholarly prestige and aristocratic refinement associated with the study of plants and natural sciences. These names, both precise and exotic, signal the high level of craft and attention devoted to each fragrance, appealing to a clientele who valued knowledge, taste, and exclusivity.

At the 1851 Universal Exposition, these perfumes competed not merely as products of luxury, but as demonstrations of technical mastery and artistic innovation. Each extrait is a distillation of a single botanical note, conveying the essence of the plant in a way that is at once vivid, nuanced, and enduring. Tilia microphylla, for instance, would have unfolded with the delicate, honeyed softness of its linden blossoms, while Mimosa fragrans exudes a sunlit, powdery warmth, evocative of early spring mornings. Cyperus ruber, with its earthy, subtly green facets, contrasts with the intensely floral sweetness of Lathyrus odorans, creating a spectrum of olfactory experiences within a unified concept.

The collection was designed for the highest echelons of society, intended for women who were not merely consumers of fragrance but arbiters of taste and refinement. These perfumes were not relegated to the dressing table as casual adornments; they were worn as statements of identity and prestige, perfuming the air with subtlety and elegance. In essence, the Jardin d’Hiver Collection embodies the aristocratic ethos of mid-19th century Paris—a union of botanical scholarship, artistic sophistication, and the cultivated elegance expected of the queens of fashion and fortune. Each fragrance is an intimate portrait of a singular flower, captured with the utmost care, and presented as a jewel of olfactory refinement.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? The perfume’s star ingredient, Anthaemia nobilis or Roman chamomile, was prized for its gentle, subtly sweet floral aroma, often associated with comfort and quiet luxury. The essential oil, typically steam-distilled from the flowers, carries notes of apple-like freshness, soft herbaceous warmth, and a hint of honeyed sweetness, which combine to create a calming, almost balsamic character. 

• Top notes:
• Middle notes:
• Base notes:

Bottle:

Presented in the carre flacon.

Petit courrier des dames: Journal des modes, 1848:

"By creating the Château des Fleurs, inventing the Jardin d’Hiver, and making flowers fashionable in all the salons of Paris, the trend of perfumery simultaneously returned—after having been somewhat neglected due to the overuse of amber, musk, and vetiver. Yet the perfumes that reappear today bear no resemblance to those bourgeois emanations of old-fashioned coquetry. At Guerlain, 11 Rue de la Paix, however, belongs the right to this thoroughly modern renewal, offering compositions more delicate, more suave, more gentle on the nerves, and more voluptuous to the sense of smell than any other.

Ladies of good society are recognized by these perfumes, just as the high lineage of noble families is recognized by their coats of arms; and when a lock of hair flutters near you, when a magnificent handkerchief falls beside you, or when a fresh, coquettish glove happens to brush near your lips, you can judge by the fragrance emanating from that hair, that handkerchief, or those gloves whether the woman to whom they belong has received at Guerlain the mark of good taste, fashion, and refinement.

New odors composed by Guerlain:

• Extrait de Lolium agriphyllum 
• Extrait de Phlomis asplenia, 
• Extrait d'Azalea melaleuca
• Extrait de Cyparisse Elaidon
• Extrait d'Hyemalis anthelia
• Extrait de Cytise sylvaria 
• Extrait d'Anthemia nobilis 
• Extrait de Cyperus ruber  
• Extrait de Tilia micropluilla
• Extrait d'Hymenaea nitida 
• Extrait de Mimosa fragrans
• Extrait de Caryophilus album 
• Extrait d'Amyris Polyolens 
• Extrait de Polyanthe suaveolens  
• Extrait de Lathyrus odorans  
• Extrait d'Ocymum dulce 

By bringing to light these entirely new perfumes, Guerlain points out that they can only be found at home, and recommends to be on guard against the imitations that one will try to make."

Shalimar - Special Edition in Leather Case 1984

In 1984, Guerlain unveiled a luxurious and highly collectible presentation of Shalimar Parfum, a masterpiece of refinement that elevated the iconic fragrance to an object of art. The perfume was housed in a 30 ml Baccarat crystal flacon, whose clarity and weight conveyed the timeless quality of Guerlain’s craftsmanship. Each flacon was nestled within a white suede-covered presentation box, the surface soft and opulent to the touch—an embodiment of tactile luxury that complemented the sensual nature of the scent itself.

The box design featured the distinctive gilded metal lattice motif first introduced on Guerlain’s Habit de Fête refillable cases from 1982 to 1990, a hallmark pattern that symbolized the house’s devotion to elegance and continuity. For this edition, the lattice was further enhanced with accents of turquoise blue, a hue that lent the piece a serene yet regal sophistication. The combination of gold and turquoise—colors often associated with opulence, purity, and Eastern splendor—echoed Shalimar’s storied origins as a fragrance inspired by the romance and luxury of the Orient.

This special edition was strictly limited to 2,000 examples, making it an exceptionally rare find among collectors today. Every detail, from the crystalline clarity of the Baccarat bottle to the tactile elegance of the white suede and the jewel-like embellishments of the box, spoke to Guerlain’s commitment to artistry and its reverence for heritage. The 1984 Shalimar Parfum presentation captured not only the essence of the perfume itself—exotic, sensual, and eternal—but also the grandeur of Guerlain’s vision of beauty and refinement.

Ocymum Dulce 1848

Ocymum Dulce by Guerlain, launched in 1848 as part of the Jardin d’Hiver Collection, reflected the house’s fascination with nature’s aromatic diversity and classical botany. The name itself, Ocymum Dulce—derived from Latin—translates to “sweet basil,” pronounced as "Oh-see-mum Dool-chay". The use of Latin, rather than French, gave the perfume an aura of scientific sophistication and timeless elegance, echoing the 19th century’s obsession with cataloguing the natural world. To the fashionable women of mid-19th-century Paris, a name like Ocymum Dulce would have conjured visions of a conservatory filled with potted herbs and exotic plants—sunlight streaming through glass, the air rich with aromatic greenness and faint floral warmth.

In choosing this name, Guerlain celebrated not only the beauty of nature but also the refinement of intellect and taste. The word Ocymum comes from the Greek okimon, meaning basil, a plant long revered for its aromatic leaves and spiritual symbolism. Dulce, meaning “sweet,” described its softer, more honeyed and clove-like nuances, distinct from the sharper, camphorous notes of common basil. The combination of these words evoked a sense of purity and quiet vitality—an herb garden distilled into perfume form. To 19th-century sensibilities, it suggested both the elegance of nature tamed for polite society and the exotic allure of distant, sun-drenched lands where such plants thrived.

The perfume debuted at a time of great cultural and industrial transformation. France in 1848 was marked by political upheaval—the end of the July Monarchy and the birth of the Second Republic—but amid the turbulence, a romantic ideal of beauty and nature persisted in art, fashion, and fragrance. The Jardin d’Hiver Collection embodied this aesthetic: delicate, intellectual, and naturalistic. Fashion emphasized lightness and refinement—women wore gowns in soft pastels and floral prints, and interiors were decorated with botanical motifs and greenhouse-inspired glass domes. Perfumes, in turn, began moving away from the heavy animalic and amber bases of earlier decades toward fresher compositions that captured the scent of living plants and flowers.

Ocymum Dulce would have appealed to the cultivated woman of this period—one who appreciated both the poetry and science of scent. She would recognize the perfume not as a simple herbal accord, but as a symbol of modern refinement: clean, verdant, and subtly sensual. Interpreted in scent, Ocymum Dulce would have combined the crisp greenness of basil leaf with its spicy, anise-like undertones, softened by perhaps a touch of floral sweetness and a warm, musky base to lend body and sophistication. It would smell like the meeting point of a sun-warmed garden and a Parisian salon—alive, elegant, and quietly luxurious.

In the context of other fragrances of its time, Ocymum Dulce stood apart. While most perfumes in the 1840s favored floral bouquets or rich balsamic blends, this fragrance ventured into greener, more aromatic territory. Guerlain’s choice to highlight an herb rather than a blossom was both daring and modern, aligning with the intellectual fascination of the age and foreshadowing the aromatic, unisex compositions that would not become fashionable until many decades later.

Jardin d’Hiver Collection:

Guerlain’s Jardin d’Hiver Collection, launched in 1848, represents a remarkable celebration of botanical singularity and refined artistry. Each fragrance within the collection is devoted to a single floral or plant note, captured with painstaking care to highlight its unique character and essence. The collection’s Latin-styled names—Tilia microphylla, Lathyrus odorans, Mimosa fragrans, Cyperus ruber, and the most recent addition (1853), Mimosa Esterhazya—lend an air of classical sophistication, evoking the scholarly prestige and aristocratic refinement associated with the study of plants and natural sciences. These names, both precise and exotic, signal the high level of craft and attention devoted to each fragrance, appealing to a clientele who valued knowledge, taste, and exclusivity.

At the 1851 Universal Exposition, these perfumes competed not merely as products of luxury, but as demonstrations of technical mastery and artistic innovation. Each extrait is a distillation of a single botanical note, conveying the essence of the plant in a way that is at once vivid, nuanced, and enduring. Tilia microphylla, for instance, would have unfolded with the delicate, honeyed softness of its linden blossoms, while Mimosa fragrans exudes a sunlit, powdery warmth, evocative of early spring mornings. Cyperus ruber, with its earthy, subtly green facets, contrasts with the intensely floral sweetness of Lathyrus odorans, creating a spectrum of olfactory experiences within a unified concept.

The collection was designed for the highest echelons of society, intended for women who were not merely consumers of fragrance but arbiters of taste and refinement. These perfumes were not relegated to the dressing table as casual adornments; they were worn as statements of identity and prestige, perfuming the air with subtlety and elegance. In essence, the Jardin d’Hiver Collection embodies the aristocratic ethos of mid-19th century Paris—a union of botanical scholarship, artistic sophistication, and the cultivated elegance expected of the queens of fashion and fortune. Each fragrance is an intimate portrait of a singular flower, captured with the utmost care, and presented as a jewel of olfactory refinement.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance.

• Top notes: bergamot, citron, orange, cassie, basil
• Middle notes: verbena, geranium, rose, jasmine, tuberose
• Base notes: rose, musk, storax, tonka bean, vanilla

Scent Profile:

Imagine lifting the stopper of this Guerlain floral oriental and inhaling the first airy burst of bergamot, citron, and orange. The citrus feels like sunlight spilling across a Mediterranean terrace—bright, sparkling, and slightly green. Bergamot from Calabria, Italy, is prized for its balance of bitter and sweet nuances, offering a lightly spicy undertone alongside a luminous zest. Citron adds a subtly tart and resinous brightness, while the orange contributes a juicy, sunny sweetness. Layered alongside these fruits is cassie, the delicate, powdery aroma of mimosa, giving the opening a soft floral veil that tempers the sharpness of citrus. The inclusion of basil, likely from Provence, introduces a subtle herbaceous warmth, with aromatic eugenol and linalool compounds that lend a lightly spicy and green nuance, grounding the bright top notes and making them intriguingly complex.

As the perfume unfolds, the heart emerges, a rich bouquet of verbena, geranium, rose, jasmine, and tuberose. The verbena feels like crushed leaves releasing a bright, tangy, and slightly floral green scent, enhancing the citrus top notes while providing a fresh verdant signature. Geranium adds a rosy-tinged complexity, often richer and greener than the pure rose, with small hints of minty freshness, a result of its naturally occurring citronellol and geraniol. The rose here, reminiscent of Damask petals, is plush and opulent, a luxurious floral anchor softened by jasmine, whose indolic compounds provide sensual creaminess and luminous depth. Tuberose, full-bodied and creamy, wraps the bouquet in a rich, almost narcotic softness, its naturally occurring lactones contributing a slightly animalic sweetness that is sensual yet refined. This floral heart is where the perfume’s oriental character quietly begins to emerge.

Finally, the base settles in—a warm, enveloping harmony of rose, musk, storax, tonka bean, and vanilla. The repeating rose in the base emphasizes the continuity and elegance of the bouquet, its scent now deeper and almost velvety. Musk adds a clean, animalic softness that enhances the wearer's skin-like warmth. Storax, a resin from the Liquidambar tree, brings balsamic sweetness and a subtle smoky undertone, bridging the florals with the gourmand warmth of tonka bean, which exudes almond-like, slightly vanilla nuances thanks to its natural coumarin content. Vanilla, possibly sourced from Madagascar, rounds the composition with creamy, comforting sweetness, harmonizing the citrus freshness and floral opulence into a sensual, lingering trail. Together, these ingredients create a floral oriental that is simultaneously bright, intricate, and warmly enveloping—a perfume that moves gracefully from sunlit citrus to an elegant floral heart, finally resting in a soft, resinous, and subtly sweet base.

This fragrance exemplifies how Guerlain masterfully balances freshness, floral complexity, and oriental warmth, creating a sophisticated olfactory journey that is both immediately appealing and enduringly elegant.

Bottle:

Presented in the carre flacon.

Petit courrier des dames: Journal des modes, 1848:

"By creating the Château des Fleurs, inventing the Jardin d’Hiver, and making flowers fashionable in all the salons of Paris, the trend of perfumery simultaneously returned—after having been somewhat neglected due to the overuse of amber, musk, and vetiver. Yet the perfumes that reappear today bear no resemblance to those bourgeois emanations of old-fashioned coquetry. At Guerlain, 11 Rue de la Paix, however, belongs the right to this thoroughly modern renewal, offering compositions more delicate, more suave, more gentle on the nerves, and more voluptuous to the sense of smell than any other.

Ladies of good society are recognized by these perfumes, just as the high lineage of noble families is recognized by their coats of arms; and when a lock of hair flutters near you, when a magnificent handkerchief falls beside you, or when a fresh, coquettish glove happens to brush near your lips, you can judge by the fragrance emanating from that hair, that handkerchief, or those gloves whether the woman to whom they belong has received at Guerlain the mark of good taste, fashion, and refinement.

New odors composed by Guerlain:

• Extrait de Lolium agriphyllum 
• Extrait de Phlomis asplenia, 
• Extrait d'Azalea melaleuca
• Extrait de Cyparisse Elaidon
• Extrait d'Hyemalis anthelia
• Extrait de Cytise sylvaria 
• Extrait d'Anthemia nobilis 
• Extrait de Cyperus ruber  
• Extrait de Tilia micropluilla
• Extrait d'Hymenaea nitida 
• Extrait de Mimosa fragrans
• Extrait de Caryophilus album 
• Extrait d'Amyris Polyolens 
• Extrait de Polyanthe suaveolens  
• Extrait de Lathyrus odorans  
• Extrait d'Ocymum dulce 

By bringing to light these entirely new perfumes, Guerlain points out that they can only be found at home, and recommends to be on guard against the imitations that one will try to make."