Liu c1929

Liu by Guerlain, launched in 1929, is a fragrance steeped in artistry and homage. Jacques Guerlain, a devoted opera enthusiast, chose the name “Liu” in reference to the tragic heroine of Puccini’s opera Turandot. In the opera, Liu is a devoted and selfless servant who sacrifices herself to save the prince Calaf, embodying purity, grace, and quiet strength. The word “Liu,” pronounced simply as “LU,” evokes delicate elegance, subtle mystery, and an air of refined serenity, conjuring images of a graceful, ethereal woman cloaked in quiet sophistication.

The perfume emerged during the late 1920s, a period marked by post-war cultural flourishing and the exuberance of the Art Deco era. Fashion at the time emphasized sleek silhouettes, geometric patterns, and a new liberation in women’s style, reflecting both modernity and elegance. In perfumery, this era saw the rise of aldehydic fragrances—sparkling, bright, and sophisticated—pioneered by the likes of Chanel No. 5 (1921). Liu fits seamlessly within this context, yet it distinguished itself through its restrained yet luxurious composition, anchored by a dominant jasmine note that exudes velvety floral richness while maintaining subtlety and refinement.

 

Women of the late 1920s would have related to Liu as a perfume of quiet confidence and elegance—a scent that spoke of inner sophistication rather than overt flamboyance. The aldehydic floral structure lent a modern, airy lift to the jasmine heart, while the delicate balance of supporting notes allowed the fragrance to feel intimate, tender, and personal. Within the market, Liu offered a unique interpretation of the aldehydic floral trend: it was lighter, more floral-focused than some of the bolder contemporaries, yet it retained the luxurious, ethereal quality expected of a high-end Parisian perfume house. It remains a timeless example of Jacques Guerlain’s ability to combine emotion, artistry, and technical mastery in a single scent. 

Liu by Guerlain, as described in a 1929 issue of Vogue, reflects both serendipity and artistic inspiration. Initially, Jacques Guerlain and his chemists were searching for a scent to bear the name Fleur de Feu, yet their experimentation unexpectedly yielded a perfume that charmed the Guerlain family and friends alike. Its allure lies in a delicate yet unmistakable Oriental tinge—a subtle exoticism that enhances the floral heart without overwhelming it.

At the same time, Puccini’s opera Turandot was playing at the Paris Opera, and the Guerlains drew inspiration from the tragic heroine, Liu. This connection lent the fragrance both a narrative and an emotional depth: Liu, with her purity, selflessness, and quiet strength, became the perfect emblem for a perfume of understated elegance.

The perfume was presented in a squat black glass bottle, small and enigmatic, resting in a black-and-gilt box. The effect is almost reverential, as though the fragrance were a miniature Buddha preserved in its shrine—a visual echo of the perfume’s subtle, meditative beauty. The combination of Oriental hints, floral softness, and elegant packaging established Liu as a perfume that was at once modern, sophisticated, and imbued with narrative charm, perfectly capturing the spirit of Parisian high culture in the late 1920s.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Liu is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, neroli, bergamot
• Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, rosemary
• Base notes: iris, vanilla, sandalwood, ambergris

 

Scent Profile:

Liu by Guerlain opens with a sparkling burst of aldehydes, their clean, effervescent facets immediately lifting the senses. These aldehydes, the hallmark of early 20th-century Parisian perfumery, bring a luminous, almost abstract shimmer to the fragrance, adding a modern, airy elegance that contrasts beautifully with the floral heart. Layered over this, neroli unfolds with a bright, green-tinged sweetness; sourced traditionally from the blossoms of bitter orange trees in Tunisia or southern Italy, neroli is prized for its delicate, honeyed aroma with subtle citric nuances. Bergamot follows, sharp and sunlit, its Italian origin imparting a zesty, slightly bitter freshness that balances the aldehydic lift, creating a sparkling prelude that feels both airy and intimate.

The heart of Liu is a rich, opulent floral bouquet. Orange blossom weaves a creamy, white-floral softness, warm and radiant, while rose adds depth, its velvety petals exuding a timeless romanticism. Jasmine dominates the composition, imparting a velvety, narcotic sweetness that feels expansive yet comforting, its natural indoles giving Liu its heady, slightly exotic character. The addition of ylang ylang contributes a tropical, slightly fruity facet, its essential oils from Madagascar and the Comoros adding creamy floral warmth with hints of sweet banana-like nuances. Rosemary interjects an aromatic green freshness, its camphorous, pine-like aroma enhancing the vibrancy of the bouquet and providing a gentle herbal lift that prevents the composition from feeling overly saccharine.

Finally, the base notes ground the fragrance with a soft, enduring richness. Iris adds a powdery, sophisticated elegance, sourced from the precious rhizomes of Italy or France, where the slow-drying process yields a complex, violet-like aroma with creamy, earthy undertones. Vanilla, warm and sweet, deepens the heart’s florals with a comforting gourmand richness, while sandalwood, often from Mysore, India, contributes a soft, milky woody warmth, blending seamlessly with ambergris, whose marine, slightly animalic nuances impart a sensual, lingering depth. Together, the ambergris and sandalwood provide a velvety canvas for the florals to shine. The entire structure is elegantly lifted by the subtle interplay of natural extracts and carefully measured synthetic aldehydes, which enhance the clarity, diffusion, and longevity of the scent.

Experiencing Liu firsthand is like stepping into a Parisian salon of the 1920s: the bright opening sparkles like sunlight on a gilded mirror, the floral heart envelops you in sophisticated intimacy, and the warm, velvety base lingers on the skin with quiet yet undeniable presence. Each ingredient plays its part in a harmonious, layered symphony—ethereal yet grounded, delicate yet enduring—capturing both the artistry of Jacques Guerlain and the ethereal essence of the opera heroine for whom it was named.

Bottles:

The original presentation, in a black bottle known as the Tabatiere (snuff bottle) decorated with a gold label is inspired by Chinese tea caddies from the eighteenth century, designed by Raymond Guerlain and made by Cristalleries de Baccarat, design #679.


Flacon Tabatiere (Snuff) c1927-1972

Bottle designed by Bernard D'Escayrac (the then Vice President of Guerlain, Inc in New York) and produced by Baccarat to hold extraits of Liu. The bottle was molded after a Chinese snuff bottle and was made only in black crystal. Bottle also made by Pochet et du Courval over the years.

Baccarat:

• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 7.8cm (limited edition of only 6000 Single copies, often unsigned)

Pochet et du Courval:

• 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 5.9cm/2.32" (1934, export version)
• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 6.4cm/2.52" (1937)
• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 7.8cm/3.07" - changed to 75ml/2.5 oz limited edition of 3000 copies (1994)
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 9cm/3.54"
• 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 11cm/4.33"

 

 

Presented in the Tabatiere flacon (parfum), the Montre flacon (eau de cologne), the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), the quadrilobe flacon (parfum), the Amphore flacon (parfum), the parapluie flacon (parfum), the flacon de guerre (parfum) and various spray flacons over the years, also available in the ancillaries: talcum powder, lotion vegetale, stilboide fluide, soap, bath oil, etc.

 

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Liu by Guerlain, as captured in contemporary accounts, was celebrated as one of the most luxurious and refined perfumes of its era. Theatre Magazine in 1929 described it as a “gift de luxe,” emphasizing its status as an opulent, desirable treasure. The name Liu, of Chinese origin and pronounced simply “LU,” evokes images of elegance, mystery, and the distant allure of the Orient. The fragrance itself was described as an embodiment of oriental seductiveness, rich and exotic, yet unmistakably French in its refinement. It was seen as a perfume that balanced Eastern inspiration with Parisian sophistication, making it uniquely alluring to the fashionable women of the late 1920s.

By 1930, Fashions of the Hour noted Liu’s “exquisite, faintly oriental scent,” underscoring its delicate blend of heady florals and soft warmth. The perfume was housed in a striking black crystal bottle with a gold and black case, lending a ceremonial, almost sacred presence to its already compelling aura. The presentation reinforced the perfume’s exotic and luxurious character, suggesting a ritual of refinement and sophistication for the wearer. Priced at $30 for two ounces, Liu was positioned as an accessible indulgence for the elegant, modern Parisienne.

Writers of the era often highlighted the poetry of Liu’s character. Harper’s Bazaar in 1931 described the fragrance as whispering “that her jests lack joy,” evoking both melancholy and depth, yet paradoxically leaving space for glamour and gallantry. Similarly, Marie-Claire in 1937 praised Liu as “the king of perfumes—heady, subtle, and fresh all at once,” with a dominant note that was “almost indescribable”—quiet, modest, and essential, elevating everything around it. This duality—both discreet and profound—was part of Liu’s enduring charm, giving it a personality that felt alive on the skin.

By 1945, La Femme Chic captured the visual and olfactory elegance of Liu, noting that its crystalline clarity was “concealed within a black crystal bottle inspired by Chinese design,” lending an aura of exotic mystery. Despite the Eastern inspiration, the perfume remained thoroughly Parisian in style, a bridge between distant fantasies and local sophistication. Connoisseurs described Liu as “a perfume with ascending scents,” where the jasmine at its heart creates a velvety, richly floral, and delightfully sweet character,” a signature of Jacques Guerlain’s mastery. Across these decades, Liu was celebrated not only for its scent but also for its capacity to evoke imagery, emotions, and a rarefied sense of elegance that made it a timeless classic in the pantheon of Guerlain perfumes.

Still available for sale in the 1950s. Discontinued (date unknown).

1994 Reissue:

In 1994, it was reissued as a limited edition in its original tabatiere bottle, but the juice was reformulated with modern notes of bergamot, neroli, jasmine, rose de mai, iris, amber, vanilla, woods.(75ml parfum). Then it was discontinued.

From Guerlain:

"The exotic inspired Shalimar, is a strong trend of the first quarter of the century. -Art Deco -introduces the taste of the addition, research; Asia fascinates as much as we gradually discover Japan, whose openness to the West began in the era Meiji period, at the end of the 19th century. Japanese and Chinese female silhouettes, and their clothes to straight cuts, will influence the Western fashion designers and artists, beginning with Puccini and Madame Butterfly.

The opera Turandot will confirm this fascination with Asian heroines, their sense of the sublime and the sacrifice, with the character of Liu. This young servant in love with Prince Calaf will prefer to die rather than reveal his nickname: -Love- It is in homage to this figure who embodies the virtues of women's only Jacques Guerlain created in 1929, the perfume Liu. Its Baccarat bottle, black glass, inspired by a Chinese tea box that once belonged to the Guerlain family, contains a delicately floral and powdery perfume."

2005 Reissue:

In 2005, it was reissued as a limited edition in its original tabatiere bottle, but the juice was reformulated. It is classified as a green floral fragrance for women.
Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, neroli
heart notes: rose de mai, jasmine
Base notes: vanilla, woods, iris, amber

From Guerlain:

"Liu is one of the Exclusive Collections, fragrances for perfume enthusiasts rare, sensitive to the noble materials and the refinement of the details. The Exclusive Collections are available in France exclusively in Parisian Guerlain Boutiques and now on your online shop Guerlain.  

A great lover of opera, Jacques Guerlain could only mesmerized by Puccini's Turandot. Difficult to resist the charm of Liu, a beautiful heroic wife, for whom he composed this poem olfactory aldehydes interpret one of their best roles. They dominate the head and announce such cymbals, the entrance to the rose and jasmine deploying brilliantly fresh air of sensuality. As a musical work, the fragrance has to have a calm and voluptuous extension. Pari held because very soon gives vanilla its carnal accents to those of the iris and wood.  

The fragrance is magnified in the iconic bottle with "Bees" in a proprietary format of 125ml.  Reissue of 1929.  Floral aldehyde. Rare, feminine, timeless. 

• Top notes: aldehydes  
• Heart notes: rose, jasmine 
• Base notes: vanilla, woody, iris

After L'Heure Bleue which introduced for the first time aldehydes in the composition of perfumes, Jacques Guerlain again uses these synthetic molecules to compose Liu. A timeless and legendary fragrance, in which aldehydes are "singing white flowers".

It now only exists as an Eau de Parfum in the exclusive 'Les Parisiennes' collection, housed in a 125 ml bee bottle.

"A great lover of opera, Jacques Guerlain created Liu as an homage to Turandot in 1929. Liu was a beautiful and desirable young woman who, even under torture, will not reveal the secret of her master's name: Love ... Real poem dedicated olfactory femininity."

In 2012, Guerlain released, the Liu Perfumed Shimmer Powder for Face and Body (37.5g),

"The star product of the Guerlain Liu Christmas collection, this show-stopping, limited edition loose powder dresses the body with sensuality. Drawing its inspiration from Jacques Guerlain's iconic Liu Eau de Parfum from the 1920's, this precious beauty ritual softly illuminates the body with a mysterious, refined and festive air. The black lacquered bottle is a talisman all of its own. Styled in the image of the original Liu perfume bottle, which in turn was inspired by traditional Japanese tea trays, this legendary fragrance is transformed into a desirable objet d'art."

180 Ans de Creations c2008

180 Ans de Créations 1828-2008 by Guerlain was launched in 2008 to commemorate the Maison’s extraordinary 180-year history. The name, translated from French as “180 Years of Creations” (pronounced roughly as “say-san-wee-zah de kray-ah-syon”), evokes a sense of heritage, refinement, and mastery in perfumery. It conjures images of generations of artisans, laboratories filled with precious raw materials, and the enduring elegance of a house that has shaped fragrance history. The title carries both gravitas and intimacy, suggesting a celebration of creativity, continuity, and dedication to the art of scent.

This perfume emerged in a period when luxury brands were increasingly emphasizing heritage and exclusivity, blending tradition with contemporary sensibilities. In 2008, perfumery was characterized by an appreciation for limited editions, bespoke creations, and collector-oriented releases, and Guerlain’s decision to craft this fragrance as a non-commercial, gift-only edition underscored its significance. The bottle itself, hand-sealed by the “dames de table”, visually reinforces the perfume’s status as a unique, ceremonial object — a miniature jewel celebrating craftsmanship and legacy. Women and men of the time would have perceived 180 Ans de Créations as an emblem of refined taste and connoisseurship, connecting the fragrance to both personal luxury and the historic prestige of Parisian perfumery.

Classified as an ambery fragrance for both men and women, 180 Ans de Créations reflects the warmth, sensuality, and opulence typically associated with amber accords, combining richness with subtlety to create a scent that is at once timeless and contemporary. Its composition, crafted by Jean-Paul Guerlain, adheres to traditional Guerlain style while embracing modern sensibilities, placing it alongside other high-end commemorative releases of the period. Yet its exclusivity, deliberate scarcity, and role as a collector’s item make it unique, distinguishing it from broader market trends and highlighting Guerlain’s enduring commitment to artistry and legacy.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? 180 Ans de Creations is classified as an ambery fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: bergamot, pink pepper and grapefruit
• Middle notes: jasmine, orange blossom,
• Base notes: musk, vetiver, tonka bean, ambergris, vanilla

Scent Profile:

180 Ans de Créations opens with a sparkling burst of bergamot, its Italian origin lending a lively, sun-soaked brightness that is distinctly fresh yet slightly bitter, with limonene and linalyl acetate naturally contributing a crisp citrus aroma. Layered with pink pepper, the fragrance acquires an immediate piquancy and warmth—its subtle rosy facets and eugenol content creating a gentle spiciness that dances atop the citrus. Grapefruit adds an effervescent tartness, enriching the opening with a lively, invigorating zing that balances the aromatic sharpness of the pepper and the soft, green citrus facets of bergamot.

At the heart, jasmine unfurls, rich and opulent, carrying its natural indoles and benzyl acetate, which lend depth, sensuality, and an almost creamy floral warmth. This is perfectly complemented by orange blossom from Southern Europe or North Africa, known for its sweet, radiant, and slightly green facets, infused with linalool and nerolidol that lend softness and a luminous quality. Together, these middle notes form a luminous floral bouquet, both velvety and uplifting, harmonizing the initial brightness with a luxurious elegance.

The base reveals the perfume’s sensual and enduring character. Musk provides a soft, animalic warmth, enhancing the skin-like intimacy of the composition. Vetiver, with its earthy, smoky undertones, grounds the fragrance, while the Haitian or Indonesian tonka bean contributes a sweet, slightly ambery warmth from coumarin, bridging the floral heart and the animalic base. Ambergris, a rare and prized ingredient from New Zealand or the Atlantic, adds a marine, sweet, and complex depth, elevating the perfume’s longevity and lending a natural, slightly resinous balsamic richness. Finally, vanilla wraps the composition in a soft, comforting sweetness, its vanillin accentuating the amber nuances and tying together the floral, citrus, and spicy layers into a coherent, enveloping ambery fragrance that feels both modern and timeless.

This carefully balanced interplay of ingredients—natural and enhanced by subtle modern synthetics—creates a luminous ambery masterpiece, celebrating Guerlain’s 180-year heritage in a scent that is simultaneously celebratory, elegant, and deeply sensual.

Bottle:

The 75ml Eau de Parfum is housed in the square Elixirs Charnels bottle decorated with an elegant strip of metal bearing the perfume's name.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Pao Rosa c1877

Pao Rosa by Guerlain, launched in 1877, represents a fascinating intersection of nature, elegance, and innovation in late 19th-century perfumery. The name itself, “Pao Rosa” — pronounced “pah-oh ROH-zah” — translates roughly from Portuguese as “rosewood,” immediately conjuring images of dense, exotic forests, the smooth, reddish-brown heartwood, and the soft pinkish sapwood of the Pao Rosa tree. Guerlain’s choice of this name evokes a sense of refined natural luxury, suggesting a fragrance that captures the rosy, aromatic essence of this rare African timber. It is a name that conveys subtle sophistication and a faintly exotic allure, transporting the wearer to distant forests filled with mystery and warmth.

Created by Aimé Guerlain, Pao Rosa belongs to the fresh citrus floral musk family, a combination that feels simultaneously uplifting, soft, and enduring. The inspiration from the Pao Rosa tree — whose essential oil carries a rosy, slightly woody aroma — sets the tone: a fragrance that blends floral delicacy with the warmth of wood, enhanced by a musky undertone that gives the composition a natural, intimate aura. Women encountering Pao Rosa in the late 1870s would have been immediately drawn to its balance of freshness and sensuality, its ability to bridge everyday wear and special occasions, and its sophisticated nod to faraway lands, a sentiment deeply in vogue during the era of colonial exploration and fascination with exotic materials.

The period of its launch was characterized by the Belle Époque, a time of optimism, elegance, and cultural flourishing in Europe. Parisian society reveled in opulent fashions, lavish social gatherings, and an ever-growing interest in fine arts and luxury goods. Perfumes were a vital part of personal elegance, with women seeking scents that expressed refinement, individuality, and subtle sensuality. In this context, Pao Rosa would have appealed as both a modern and exotic choice: the musky base giving a sense of warmth and intimacy, while the floral and citrus notes offered freshness and brightness, echoing the elegance of Parisian salons and the natural grace of garden blooms.

The olfactory impression of Pao Rosa is of a delicate rosiness softened by the warmth of wood and musk. One might imagine inhaling a gentle citrus lift that awakens the senses, giving way to the heart of the Pao Rosa’s rosewood aroma — subtly spicy, slightly balsamic, and warmly floral. This central accord, intertwined with a musky undertone, lingers on the skin, evoking the intimacy of fine fabrics and polished wooden interiors. While the use of exotic woods in perfumery was not uncommon for the time, the focus on the Pao Rosa tree’s unique aroma was distinctive, giving the fragrance a signature character that set it apart from the more common rose or jasmine-centered compositions prevalent in the 1870s.

In the landscape of 19th-century perfumes, Pao Rosa straddled the line between traditional elegance and a burgeoning curiosity for exoticism. It harmonized with trends favoring floral and citrus blends, yet distinguished itself through its rare wood inspiration and musky undertone. The fragrance was both a reflection of its era — embracing freshness, sophistication, and femininity — and a precursor to the later, more adventurous explorations of global botanical treasures that would define Guerlain’s future creations. Women of the period would have found in Pao Rosa a perfume that spoke to their desire for refinement, individuality, and subtle allure, offering a sensory escape into the rich, aromatic heart of distant forests.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Pao Rosa is classified as a musky fragrance for women.

• Top notes: neroli, bergamot 
• Middle notes: rose
• Base notes: Brazilian rosewood, musk, civet 

Scent Profile:

Pao Rosa by Guerlain unfolds as an intimate and exotic fragrance, beginning with a sparkling and luminous top accord of neroli and bergamot. The neroli, derived from the blossoms of bitter orange trees, brings a delicate floral-citrus freshness that is both uplifting and subtly green, with natural aroma chemicals like linalool and limonene creating its soft, effervescent quality. When sourced from the Mediterranean — particularly the groves of Tunisia or Morocco, as would have been typical in the 19th century — neroli carries a slightly honeyed nuance that sets it apart from other regions, contributing an airy elegance to the fragrance. Bergamot, famously grown in Calabria, Italy, offers a brighter, sunnier citrus dimension, with its natural esters and aldehydes giving a sparkling and slightly bitter facet that balances the floral sweetness of neroli, while enhancing longevity and clarity.

The heart of Pao Rosa is dominated by rose, evoking the perfume’s namesake tree. Guerlain captures a floral richness that is both soft and sensual, suggesting the rosy sapwood and reddish-brown heartwood of the African Pao Rosa tree. The rose here is likely a high-grade Damascus or Bulgarian variety, prized for its deep, honeyed facets and natural aldehydic undertones that provide both lift and warmth. The natural phenolic compounds and citronellol in the rose essence create a lush, slightly spicy floral core that evokes elegance, romance, and the sophistication of 19th-century Parisian women.

The base brings depth and sensuality with Brazilian rosewood, musk, and civet. Brazilian rosewood imparts a creamy, woody warmth that complements the floral heart, its fragrant lignans and vanillin-like notes offering a slightly balsamic, soft richness. Musk — whether natural or synthetic, as by this period Guerlain might have blended both — provides an intimate, skin-like warmth, extending the fragrance and anchoring it with velvety depth. Civet, sourced from African or Madagascan origins

Journal des demoiselles, 1879:

"Les extraits concentrés Pao Rosa extrait du bois du Brésil"
("concentrated extracts, Pao Rosa, extract of Brazil wood.")

Bottles:

It was housed in the Carre flacon as well as other bottles.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1894.

Purple Fantasy 2001

Purple Fantasy by Guerlain, launched in 2001, was a modern fairy tale told through scent — a luminous and whimsical creation that blended freshness, sensuality, and a touch of playful mystery. The name “Purple Fantasy” immediately conjures images of dreamlike indulgence. “Purple,” a color long associated with luxury, mystery, and imagination, evokes twilight skies, ripe fruit, and velvet drapery — while “Fantasy” speaks to escapism, desire, and the allure of the unattainable. Together, the name suggests a fragrance meant to transport the wearer into a world of color and sensation — both modern and romantic, elegant yet free-spirited. The name flows easily on the tongue, its simplicity belying the sophistication of the scent it represents.

In 2001, the fragrance landscape was in transition. The exuberance of the 1990s — marked by bold, opulent power scents and sweet, gourmand compositions — was giving way to cleaner, airier fragrances that sought to balance freshness with individuality. The early 2000s were a period of subtle sensuality and sheer textures in both fashion and perfumery: sheer fabrics, metallic finishes, and pastel tones dominated the runways, while fragrances leaned toward luminous florals, transparent musks, and fruit-infused notes. Guerlain’s Purple Fantasy fit neatly within this evolution, offering a composition that was both delicate and spirited — youthful in tone, yet unmistakably refined in structure.

The word “Purple Fantasy” in scent would naturally suggest richness and dreamlike sensuality — a composition that is fruity yet sophisticated, light yet deeply feminine. Guerlain interpreted this through an accord centered on wild blackberries, a note that gives the perfume its vibrant, mouthwatering opening. The blackberry, with its tart juiciness and deep purple hue, evokes summer forests and indulgent pleasures. Layered over this are the bittersweet bigarade and bitter orange — their bright, slightly green character lending a crisp counterpoint to the fruit’s sweetness. Guerlain’s inclusion of a subtle apricot nuance, reminiscent of osmanthus, adds a creamy, suede-like dimension, suggesting soft skin and sun-warmed petals.

At its heart, the fragrance blooms with green tea, osmanthus, and jasmine, a trio that defines its gentle floral core. Green tea brings a modern freshness — serene and clear, with a delicate vegetal note that was particularly fashionable in early 2000s perfumery. Osmanthus, often sourced from China, adds its signature apricot and leathery tones, an elegant bridge between fruit and flower. Jasmine, one of Guerlain’s favorite materials, offers radiance and sensuality, softening the sharper edges and lending the composition its classic floral soul. Beneath this luminous heart lies a woody base, grounding the airy top and middle with a trace of warmth — cedar or sandalwood, used sparingly to maintain transparency.

When Purple Fantasy debuted, it stood apart from Guerlain’s traditional oriental richness. It was a fragrance of light — a modern waltz between freshness and softness, reflecting a new chapter for the house under Jean-Paul Guerlain. For women of the time, a perfume called Purple Fantasy would have embodied the spirit of possibility and personal allure — playful, confident, and just a little bit mischievous. It spoke to an era that embraced color and individuality, when scent was not only an adornment but an expression of mood. In the wider context of perfumery, Purple Fantasy aligned with contemporary trends for luminous fruity-florals but elevated them with Guerlain’s signature elegance and craftsmanship.

Ultimately, Purple Fantasy was less about fantasy as escape and more about fantasy as revelation — the everyday enchantment that lingers in color, light, and scent. It was a dream in violet tones, captured in glass — a whisper of sweetness on the skin, fleeting yet unforgettable.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Purple Fantasy is classified as a fruity floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, orange bigarade, bitter orange, neroli, coconut, wild blackberries
• Middle notes: green tea, apricot, osmanthus, jasmine, tuberose, violet, cardamom
• Base notes: sandalwood, cedar, iris

Scent Profile:

Purple Fantasy by Guerlain unfolds like a luminous daydream — one that opens in a burst of sunlight, deepens into a velvety floral heart, and settles into a soft, lingering haze of woods and iris. Each note feels deliberately chosen to evoke movement — from sparkling light to gentle warmth — creating a scent that is at once playful, feminine, and quietly sophisticated.

At first breath, the top notes shimmer with brightness and energy. The bergamot, likely sourced from Calabria, Italy, provides a sparkling citrus lift — effervescent and green, its natural compounds such as linalyl acetate and limonene give that crisp, slightly floral zest so emblematic of Italian bergamot oil. This radiance is quickly tempered by orange bigarade and bitter orange, two close relatives that add complexity and depth. The bigarade, or Seville orange, is more aromatic and resinous than sweet orange, containing linalool and citral, which lend a green, almost spicy edge. The bitter orange amplifies this with a tart freshness — less juicy, more structured — echoing the rind’s pith and the cool shadow of its leaves. Neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, drifts in next — honeyed yet airy, its soft white-floral quality bridging fruit and flower. The molecules nerolidol and linalool lend it a luminous, slightly green sensuality that captures the delicate radiance of orange blossoms swaying in sunlight.

Then, a surprising twist — a whisper of coconut, creamy but not sweet, rounds out the citrus sharpness with a silky, skin-like smoothness. Guerlain often uses subtle lactonic notes like this to create texture rather than overt gourmand warmth. Into this sunlit medley enters the wild blackberry accord — lush, juicy, and just tart enough to make the mouth water. Natural blackberry aroma is difficult to extract, so the perfumer likely employed synthetic molecules such as ionones (also found in violet and iris), ethyl maltol, and dihydromyrcenol to recreate its fruity-green nuance. The result feels like crushed berries still warm from the sun, their purple juice staining the fingers — playful, radiant, and irresistibly modern.

As the fragrance deepens, the heart reveals its velvety core — a symphony of florals and gentle spice. Green tea imparts clarity and freshness, evoking dew-covered leaves in morning light. Its faintly tannic aroma, often recreated through cis-3-hexenol and ionones, balances sweetness with vegetal transparency. Apricot slips in next, not the sugary fruit itself but its soft, golden scent derived from osmanthus, a blossom prized in China for its rich aroma of ripe apricots and suede. Osmanthus absolute is intensely nuanced — fruity, leathery, and warm — containing gamma-decalactone, the same molecule responsible for peach and apricot’s velvety fleshiness. Here, it connects the fruity opening to the floral heart, adding a sensual warmth that feels quietly indulgent.

The jasmine emerges next — lush and creamy, woven through with hints of indole, lending both brightness and flesh. Its narcotic sweetness is tempered by the crispness of tuberose, whose mentholated greenness lifts the blend while adding a touch of white-floral luxury. Both flowers contain benzyl acetate and methyl anthranilate, molecules that create that heady, sweet, and almost grape-like floral diffusion. These are softened by violet, powdery and cool, its ionones harmonizing with those in the blackberry and iris to create continuity from top to base. A trace of cardamom lends quiet intrigue — its camphorous, lemony warmth subtly threading through the florals, giving a sense of sophistication without overpowering.

Finally, Purple Fantasy settles into its serene, elegant base. Sandalwood, creamy and lactonic, forms the foundation — likely an Indian Mysore or sustainably sourced Australian variety. Its principal molecule, santalol, gives that velvety, lingering softness that feels like polished wood and warm skin. Cedarwood follows, dry and silken, grounding the composition with its slightly resinous, pencil-shaving aroma; its cedrol and thujopsene notes add both structure and radiance. The finale belongs to iris, one of Guerlain’s most beloved ingredients. Derived from the rhizome of the Iris pallida grown in Tuscany, this material lends a powdery, buttery texture, rich in irones — molecules responsible for its violet-like coolness and refined luxury. In Purple Fantasy, the iris wraps all preceding notes in a soft-focus glow, transforming fruit and flower into a delicate, lingering veil of powder and wood.

The interplay of natural and synthetic materials in Purple Fantasy is masterful — the synthetics do not replace, but rather illuminate the naturals, enhancing their radiance and longevity. The synthetic blackberry and apricot accords highlight the lushness of osmanthus; the ionones in violet smooth the transition to iris; the creamy sandalwood and cedar, bolstered by fixatives, lend quiet persistence.

Smelling Purple Fantasy feels like walking through a garden at dusk — the light fading, the air shimmering with floral breath and the faint sweetness of ripe fruit. It is a fragrance of twilight sensuality, where every note glows softly, like the afterimage of a dream painted in shades of violet and gold.

Bottles:

It was first presented in the 1 oz modified Louis XVI spray flacon (eau de toilette), but in a wild purple hue and satin and blue fabric drawstring pouch.

Fate of the Fragrance:

It was discontinued shortly after its introduction. It was then relaunched in 2005 as an eau de parfum in the Les Parisiennes line.

Rose Nacree du Desert c2012

Rose Nacrée du Désert — translated from French as “Mother-of-Pearl Rose of the Desert” (pronounced rohz nah-cray dew day-zair) — is a name that sounds as poetic as it smells. The phrase immediately conjures a vision of something both fragile and eternal: a shimmering rose blooming in the stillness of the dunes, its petals glistening like nacre under the rising sun. The choice of the word nacrée (“pearly” or “iridescent”) evokes softness, luminescence, and rarity, suggesting that this rose is not of the garden, but of the spirit — born from heat, silence, and sand. Guerlain, with its centuries-long tradition of translating beauty into scent, chose this name to evoke an image of mystery and refinement, merging French romanticism with the grandeur and sensuality of the Middle East.

When Rose Nacrée du Désert was launched in 2012, it arrived at a time when Western perfumery was undergoing a profound renaissance of oriental inspiration. The early 2010s saw the global perfume industry fascinated by the opulence of Middle Eastern raw materials — oud, saffron, amber, and rose — marking the beginning of what is often referred to as the “Oud Era.” Fashion mirrored this fascination: couture houses experimented with flowing silhouettes, gilded embellishments, and jewel tones that echoed the East’s splendor. Guerlain’s Les Déserts d’Orient collection was both a tribute and a dialogue — a way of bridging two perfume cultures through craftsmanship, authenticity, and shared sensuality.

The name Rose Nacrée du Désert also carries emotional depth. It speaks to dualities — delicacy and endurance, softness and strength, bloom and desolation. For women and men of the time, this fragrance represented not merely an aesthetic choice but an attitude: one of elegance rooted in mystery. It evoked the allure of travel, the poetry of solitude, and the beauty found in unlikely places. To wear such a perfume was to carry with you a secret — a rose that glows even when the world turns to shadow.

In scent, Rose Nacrée du Désert interprets its name with masterful precision. Thierry Wasser selected the Persian rose — grown in Iran and used here for the first time in perfumery — for its distinctively rich and saffron-tinged character. Unlike the soft, honeyed Bulgarian rose or the crisp Turkish variety, the Persian rose carries a darker, almost leathery nuance, its petals exuding a natural warmth that harmonizes effortlessly with the oud accord at the fragrance’s heart. The oud — built from patchouli, gaiac wood, and dry amber — provides depth and gravitas, yet remains refined rather than overpowering. It is an oud interpreted through Guerlain’s lens: polished, elegant, and suffused with light.

To the modern nose in 2012, Rose Nacrée du Désert stood apart from the numerous oud-and-rose pairings flooding the market. While many perfumes of the time pursued density and power, Wasser’s creation favored texture and balance — a silken interplay between smoky wood and translucent floral light. It honored the codes of oriental perfumery without imitation, capturing the romance of Guerlain’s French heritage while paying sincere homage to the perfumed traditions of the Middle East.

Ultimately, Rose Nacrée du Désert was more than a fragrance — it was a story in scent. It spoke of sunrise over the dunes, of a single rose glowing beneath an amber sky, its scent suspended between memory and mirage. It invited wearers, whether women or men, into that luminous stillness where time and beauty seem to pause — and where, just for a moment, one can breathe eternity.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Rose Nacree du Desert is classified as a woody floral fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: saffron note, Persian rose, patchouli
• Middle notes: cardamom, curcuma, cedar wood, oud accord
• Base notes: myrrh, benzoin

Scent Profile:

The first breath of Rose Nacrée du Désert opens like the dawn over the Persian landscape — warm, shimmering, and touched by the spice of sun-baked air. The initial impression is led by saffron, one of the most precious ingredients in perfumery and in history. Here, it feels like strands of red-gold silk — slightly metallic, honeyed, and leathery at once. The saffron note used by Guerlain is one specially crafted by Thierry Wasser, designed to replicate the complex, multi-faceted scent of the true Iranian spice, whose aroma owes much to safranal and picrocrocin, natural compounds that give it its bittersweet and leathery nuance. In perfumery, saffron often bridges floral and woody notes, creating a glowing, amber-like warmth that lingers just beneath the surface.

Immediately intertwined with it is the Persian rose, the beating heart of the fragrance. Grown in the highlands of Iran, this rose differs profoundly from its Bulgarian and Turkish cousins. The arid climate and mineral-rich soil produce blooms that are drier, more resinous, and more spiced — a rose with a subtle leathery tone and a faint thread of smoke. Chemically rich in citronellol, geraniol, and phenylethyl alcohol, its scent captures both the dewiness of fresh petals and the dusky shadow of the desert evening. The synthetic supports around the rose — modern aroma molecules that amplify its longevity — act as translucent veils, allowing the natural essence to retain its radiance without heaviness. Together, saffron and rose unfold like silk unfurling, a golden-red tapestry of warmth and sensuality.

As the fragrance deepens, the patchouli rises — dark, earthy, and slightly camphorous. Guerlain’s patchouli, likely sourced from Indonesia or India, is refined to highlight its most elegant aspects, removing the musty, damp facets while keeping its spicy depth intact. Patchouli’s main components, patchoulol and norpatchoulenol, create a grounding effect, linking the airy rose to the resinous heart that follows. Then comes the warmth of cardamom and curcuma (turmeric) — spices that shimmer like sunlight caught in amber. Cardamom adds a cool, aromatic brightness with its cineole and terpinyl acetate molecules, while turmeric offers an earthy, golden undertone, softening the sharper edges of the composition. Together, they lend the perfume both exotic warmth and balance — a reminder of spice markets and polished wooden chests.

The woody backbone of the perfume begins to assert itself through cedar wood and oud accord. Guerlain’s cedar, likely from Atlas or Virginia sources, imparts a pencil-shaving dryness and gentle smokiness, full of cedrol and thujopsene, lending both structure and calm. The oud accord is not raw agarwood, but a sophisticated recreation blending patchouli, gaiac wood, and amber materials to emulate the ancient resin’s dark, smoky sweetness. This accord ensures the oud remains elegant and wearable, without the animalic bite of natural oud oil. It provides a dusky, velvety texture — a shadow for the rose’s glow to play against.

As the perfume settles, the base emerges — myrrh and benzoin, the twin resins that anchor the entire composition. The myrrh, sourced from the Horn of Africa, breathes a bitter-sweet incense note, full of depth and solemnity, its complexity owed to furanoeudesma-1,3-diene and other aromatic sesquiterpenes that create its sacred, resinous aura. The benzoin, likely from Siam (Thailand), wraps everything in a golden balsamic sweetness — its vanillin-like qualities lending a honeyed warmth that echoes the saffron of the opening. The marriage of these two resins with the musky undertone of the oud gives the scent an enduring sensuality — smoky, sweet, and profoundly comforting.

The impression left by Rose Nacrée du Désert is one of fluid contrast — the shimmer of spice against the softness of floral petals, the sacred hush of resins against the glow of sun-warmed wood. Each note breathes in rhythm, capturing the soul of the desert itself: vast, mysterious, and quietly alive. It is both a fragrance and a reverie — a rose carved from sunlight and shadow, its every facet polished by the desert wind.

Bottle:

Available as: 75ml eau de parfum (unisex)

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Encens Mythique d'Orient c2012

Encens Mythique d’Orient (pronounced "Ahn-sahn Mee-teek doh-ree-ahn") translates from French to “Mythical Incense of the Orient.” The name immediately evokes mystery and grandeur — a sense of reverence, like entering a sacred place perfumed by centuries of history. The word “Encens” means incense, suggesting something spiritual, meditative, and enduring, while “Mythique” alludes to legend and timeless beauty. Together, the phrase conjures the image of an ancient temple at dusk, where wisps of aromatic smoke curl toward vaulted ceilings as golden light reflects off mosaic walls. It is a name steeped in both sensuality and serenity — the essence of the East as imagined through the poetic lens of French perfumery.

When Guerlain introduced Encens Mythique d’Orient in 2012, the house was reaffirming its deep connection to Orientalism — a theme that had defined much of its creative identity since the 19th century. The early 2010s were marked by a renewed fascination with luxury craftsmanship and exotic materials, as Western perfume houses sought to engage the growing Middle Eastern market. This period, often described as the “resurgence of artisanal perfumery,” emphasized richness, longevity, and opulent raw ingredients. Fashion, too, reflected this taste for the sumptuous and global — designers like Elie Saab, Balmain, and Valentino explored ornate embroidery, flowing silhouettes, and jewel-toned palettes that mirrored the lush complexity of Eastern aesthetics. Guerlain’s Les Déserts d’Orient collection arrived perfectly within this cultural moment, bridging French refinement with the region’s deep-rooted love of perfumed storytelling.

To a woman (or man) of that era, a fragrance named Encens Mythique d’Orient would have carried a sense of discovery and reverence. It spoke of luxury that transcended the material — of spirituality expressed through scent. The name suggested not a fleeting trend, but an eternal idea: incense as the universal language of devotion. It would have appealed to those drawn to fragrances that lingered like memory — elegant, introspective, and quietly powerful.

In olfactory interpretation, Encens Mythique d’Orient transformed its name into an experience that balanced the sacred with the sensual. Thierry Wasser built the perfume around frankincense, the age-old resin that embodies spiritual purity, and rose, the eternal symbol of love and beauty. Yet, at its core lies ambergris, one of perfumery’s rarest treasures, sourced from the waters surrounding New Zealand. Wasser’s innovative approach to this material — blending various ambergris blocks distinguished by their marine, warm, and animalic nuances — allowed him to create a “communelle” of extraordinary depth and smoothness. The result was not simply a perfume, but an olfactory composition that conveyed both majesty and intimacy.

Within the context of contemporary perfumery, Encens Mythique d’Orient stood apart from the minimalism that dominated much of Western fragrance design in the early 2010s. While many brands pursued sheer, clean compositions, Guerlain instead offered something unapologetically opulent — a fragrance that celebrated the raw materials themselves and the artistry of blending. It was modern in its polish, yet ancient in spirit, proving that the allure of the mythical East still held the power to enchant a new generation of perfume lovers.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Encens Mythique d'Orient is classified as a musky oriental fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: rose, aldehyde, saffron note.
• Middle notes: pink pepper, vetiver, patchouli.
• Base notes: forest floor notes, ambergris, frankincense.

Scent Profile:

At first breath, Encens Mythique d’Orient opens with a whisper of rose, a bloom that feels at once ancient and eternal. This is not a tender garden rose, but rather a lush, honeyed variety — most likely the Damask rose from Bulgaria, famed for its voluptuous depth and naturally high concentration of citronellol and geraniol, compounds that lend an exquisite blend of freshness and warmth. The rose here feels liquid and luminous, its dewy sweetness tempered by the shimmer of aldehydes. These aldehydes — synthetic molecules prized since the early 20th century — lift the floral heart like sunlight refracting through crystal, imparting an almost effervescent quality. They magnify the rose’s radiance, making it feel more airy, more celestial, as though the petals themselves were infused with starlight.

Threaded through this light is the golden, leathery strand of saffron, the “red gold” of perfumery. Likely drawn from Iranian or Kashmiri crocus stigmas — among the finest in the world — this note offers a duality of dry spice and soft warmth. The key molecule, safranal, contributes its distinctive metallic-hay tone, while traces of picrocrocin add a delicate bitterness that prevents the scent from turning overly sweet. In Encens Mythique d’Orient, the saffron serves as both bridge and contrast: it anchors the airy rose in something more tactile, more human — a whisper of skin and sun-drenched spice that hints at mystery and heat.

As the fragrance deepens, the heart reveals a composition of pink pepper, vetiver, and patchouli, each chosen for its ability to both contrast and complement. The pink pepper from Réunion or Madagascar brings a lively, rosé-like sparkle — a gentle bite of limonene and β-pinene that tingles on the skin, brightening the composition’s edges. Beneath it lies vetiver, almost certainly Haitian, celebrated for its dry, woody elegance and its remarkably high vetiverol content, which imparts that noble smokiness Guerlain so often weaves into its orientals. The vetiver’s earthy rootiness harmonizes with the patchouli, whose Indonesian origin ensures a smoother, less camphorous profile — rich in patchoulol and norpatchoulenol, molecules that create a velvety, shadowed depth. Here, the natural patchouli is softened by subtle synthetic modifiers, perhaps Iso E Super or similar molecules, which add translucence and allow the richness to diffuse gracefully, like incense smoke in an airy hall.

Then comes the descent into the base — an atmosphere of forest floor, ambergris, and frankincense. The forest accord feels dark and damp, an evocation of moss and earth tinged with resin, likely supported by notes of oakmoss absolute or synthetic Evernyl, which reproduce the cool, leathery green facets of lichen without overpowering the composition. Ambergris, sourced from the coasts of New Zealand as Guerlain has described, brings an almost paradoxical duality — salty yet warm, marine yet animalic. Its primary component, ambrein, yields upon oxidation the ethereal, radiant tones of ambery and musky sweetness, wrapping the skin like sun-warmed silk.

Finally, frankincense rises — silvery and sacred. Extracted from Boswellia trees of Oman or Somalia, this resin contains α-pinene and limonene, which lend brightness, while incensole acetate provides the meditative, balsamic calm at the core of incense smoke. In Encens Mythique d’Orient, the frankincense does not burn; it smolders softly, mingling with the ambergris to create an illusion of divine stillness.

Altogether, the fragrance breathes like an ancient cathedral illuminated by desert light — rose petals scattered on stone, curls of incense winding upward through golden air. The synthesis of natural and synthetic elements is masterful: the aldehydes expand the rose, the synthetics refine the earthiness, and the ambergris accord amplifies the resins into something timeless. Encens Mythique d’Orient is not merely a scent but a reverie — a meditation on the meeting of heaven and earth, light and shadow, the seen and the unseen.

Bottle:

The Déserts d’Orient fragrances are housed in simple, streamlined bottles gorgeously illuminated by a shower of gold, like a symbol of riches: a sign of belonging to a world in which this precious material has always been given pride of place. Available as: 75ml eau de parfum

Fate of the Fragrance:

Guerlain's original "Encens Mythique d'Orient" from the Les Déserts d'Orient collection was discontinued and reformulated in 2019 into a new fragrance, Les Absolus d'Orient Encens Mythique.

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete c2012

Songe d’un Bois d’Été, launched in 2012 as part of Guerlain’s Les Déserts d’Orient collection, represents the meeting point between East and West—a tribute to the perfumed opulence of the Middle East seen through the lens of Guerlain’s refined French artistry. The name, Songe d’un Bois d’Été, is French for “Dream of a Summer Wood.” Pronounced "Sohnzh dun Bwah day-TAY", it evokes poetry, mystery, and sensual warmth. The word songe—meaning “dream”—immediately suggests reverie, a drifting of the senses into a luxurious, sun-drenched landscape. One imagines a forest glowing under a golden dusk, resin and smoke rising from the earth, the air thick with the scent of wood, leather, and spice. It is a name that feels both intimate and infinite—rooted in nature, yet touched by the ethereal.

When Songe d’un Bois d’Été was introduced, perfumery was experiencing a renaissance of Middle Eastern influence. Western houses were increasingly fascinated by oud, myrrh, amber, and the ancient rituals of perfumed oils and resins. Guerlain’s choice to release the Les Déserts d’Orient line exclusively to the Middle Eastern market was a respectful nod to this tradition—an acknowledgment that the region had long been the cradle of perfumery. In fashion, 2012 was an era of global fusion: opulent fabrics, metallic embroidery, and desert-inspired palettes appeared on couture runways. In scent, rich, resinous compositions—once considered niche—were becoming symbols of sophistication. For a woman or man of this time, wearing a perfume called Songe d’un Bois d’Été meant embracing the modern mystique of the Orient—a fragrance that spoke of refinement, sensual depth, and cultural reverence.

The name “Dream of a Summer Wood” is beautifully interpreted in scent. Thierry Wasser envisioned a forest warmed by the sun yet cloaked in shadows—a tension between heat and coolness, light and dark. The composition is anchored by woods—especially cedar and patchouli—which form the backbone of the perfume. Cedar, often sourced from the Atlas Mountains of Morocco, imparts its dry, aromatic tone, rich in cedrol and thujopsene, molecules that lend the scent its distinctive woody clarity. Patchouli, from Indonesia, brings depth and body—its earthy, camphorous character arising from patchoulol and norpatchoulenol. In this composition, patchouli’s natural damp darkness is polished and refined, evoking aged wood perfumed by desert winds.

Threaded through this heart is myrrh, one of perfumery’s most ancient resins, revered since antiquity for its bittersweet, balsamic warmth. Myrrh’s furanoeudesma-1,3-diene molecules give it its characteristic medicinal-amber tone, but Wasser softens its austerity with saffron—perhaps the perfume’s most striking feature. The saffron accord, created specially for this collection, glows like molten gold. Sourced from the fragile stigmas of the crocus flower—harvested by hand in Iran and Kashmir—saffron’s aroma blends leathery, spicy, and slightly honeyed notes. Its key aroma chemical, safranal, produces a radiant warmth that feels both exotic and human, enhancing the woody-leathery facets of the fragrance.

As the perfume deepens, hints of leather and amber emerge, adding tactile richness and a subtle sensuality. The “leather” here is not raw or smoky, but smooth and supple—an impression achieved through the blending of natural balsams with modern synthetics such as isobutyl quinoline or suederal, which lend texture and depth without heaviness. The interplay between saffron and leather is masterful: together they conjure the image of sun-warmed hide, incense smoke, and burnished wood.

Ultimately, Songe d’un Bois d’Été is a study in contrasts—light and dark, masculine and feminine, modern and ancient. Its structure is precise, yet its mood is dreamlike. Guerlain’s creation stands apart from many of the oud-laden scents of its time by focusing instead on the idea of wood and the feeling of heat, rather than the literal heaviness of resin. It feels contemplative and elegant, like the scent of a cedar forest at twilight—still warm from the day’s sun, yet cooling under a velvet night. For the wearer, it is an olfactory dream: one that lingers on the skin like memory, rich with mystery, sensuality, and the timeless soul of the desert.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Songe d'un Bois d'Ete is classified as a leather fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: bay leaf, neroli
• Middle notes: patchouli, saffron, jasmine, cedar 
• Base notes: leather, myrrh

Scent Profile:

Songe d’un Bois d’Été opens like the breath of an ancient breeze drifting through a dusky forest warmed by the last light of day. Created by Thierry Wasser for Guerlain’s Les Déserts d’Orient collection in 2012, the fragrance is a study in shadow and glow — a seamless fusion of resin, spice, and soft leather that mirrors the mystery and majesty of the desert night. Each note is carefully selected to evoke both the natural splendor of the East and the refinement of French perfumery, blending the two traditions in perfect symmetry.

The opening unfurls with bay leaf and neroli, an unusual pairing that immediately conjures contrast — aromatic and green against radiant floral light. The bay leaf, most likely from the Mediterranean basin, releases its sharp, camphorous aroma full of eugenol and cineole, molecules that lend both spice and clarity. It smells like crushed leaves warmed by the sun — peppery, dry, slightly medicinal, and almost masculine in its bite. The neroli, distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree in Tunisia or Morocco, counters this austerity with its golden softness. Linalool and limonene give neroli its delicate citrus sparkle, while indoles add an undercurrent of sensual warmth. Together, these two notes establish a tone of quiet strength — both contemplative and alive, as if the perfume is waking from a dream.

In the heart, the composition deepens into the richness that defines Songe d’un Bois d’Été. Patchouli, often sourced from Indonesia or India, anchors the center with its earthy, humus-like intensity. Its main components — patchoulol, alpha-bulnesene, and beta-caryophyllene — create a dark, grounding rhythm reminiscent of damp soil and polished wood. Yet, here it is refined, not heavy; Thierry Wasser tempers it with saffron, a specially crafted note designed for the Déserts d’Orient collection. True saffron, harvested from the stigmas of Crocus sativus flowers in Iran or Kashmir, is among the most precious ingredients in perfumery. Its unique molecules — safranal and crocin — release a scent that is simultaneously spicy, leathery, and faintly honeyed. Wasser’s saffron note mirrors this elusive beauty, amplifying the natural aroma with synthetics that enhance its luminous depth and elongate its life on skin.

Threaded through this heart is jasmine, possibly from Egypt, its narcotic sweetness softened by the warmth of cedarwood. The jasmine’s benzyl acetate and indole compounds bring an intoxicating floral glow that melts into the wood’s dry, balsamic smoothness. Cedarwood, particularly from Atlas or Virginia sources, provides a silken frame — pencil-shaving dry, lightly resinous, with a faint touch of honey. The interplay between jasmine’s opulence and cedar’s restraint evokes the sensation of sunlight filtering through a canopy — radiant and shadowed all at once.

As the fragrance settles, leather and myrrh dominate the base, creating a finale that feels both sacred and sensual. The leather accord, likely constructed from isobutyl quinoline and birch tar synthetics, exudes a smoky, animalic warmth that recalls well-worn saddles or burnished hide. It is softened by myrrh, a resin obtained from Commiphora myrrha trees native to Somalia and Yemen. Myrrh’s composition — rich in furanodiene and curzerene — yields a bittersweet aroma of balsamic resin, incense, and warm amber. Here, it infuses the leather with a golden, meditative depth, as though smoke from a ceremonial fire had woven itself into the fabric of the perfume.

Songe d’un Bois d’Été evolves like a journey through layers of shadow and flame. From the aromatic brightness of bay and neroli to the darkly spiced heart and smoldering resinous base, it tells the story of a dream half-remembered — one where the air is perfumed with the scent of sun-warmed wood, sacred smoke, and distant flowers. It is at once masculine and feminine, modern and timeless — a fragrance that seems to breathe with the rhythm of the earth itself.

Bottle:

The Déserts d’Orient fragrances are housed in simple, streamlined bottles gorgeously illuminated by a shower of gold, like a symbol of riches: a sign of belonging to a world in which this precious material has always been given pride of place.  Available as: 75ml eau de parfum

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.