The name Vol de Nuit evokes powerful imagery: the whir of propellers cutting through the darkness, a pilot’s solitude under a canopy of stars, and the faint glimmer of light guiding him home. It carries with it the mystery of the night sky and the emotional tension between risk and reward, fear and passion. In the early 1930s, aviation was not only a technological marvel but a symbol of progress, freedom, and modernity. To name a perfume after a night flight was bold and sophisticated—an acknowledgment of human innovation and the intoxicating romance of venturing into the unknown. This was a time when air travel was still a luxury reserved for the elite, embodying adventure and exclusivity—qualities perfectly aligned with Guerlain’s image of refined modern femininity.
The 1930s, often referred to as the Art Deco period, were marked by streamlined elegance and a fascination with speed, machinery, and progress. In fashion, sleek silhouettes replaced the extravagance of the 1920s; women wore sharply tailored suits, fur collars, and red lipstick—a look that balanced power with poise. Perfumery followed suit: compositions became more sophisticated, more abstract. Vol de Nuit fit this emerging aesthetic with its complex structure and enigmatic beauty. Classified as an oriental chypre, the fragrance blended the earthy depth of oakmoss and woods with the sensual warmth of amber and vanilla, elevated by a subtle radiance of galbanum and narcissus. It was not a coquettish perfume, but a scent of introspection and quiet strength—made for a woman of mystery and resolve.
Women of the time would have been deeply moved by a perfume called Vol de Nuit. Many had experienced the cultural upheavals of World War I, and the daring aviatrices of the 1930s—such as Amelia Earhart and Hélène Boucher—had become modern heroines, symbols of independence and courage. The perfume’s name and its scent composition reflected this new femininity: confident, enigmatic, and adventurous. To wear Vol de Nuit was to align oneself with that spirit—to embrace the unknown with grace.
In the landscape of 1930s perfumery, Vol de Nuit stood apart. While many houses were producing sweet florals or powdery aldehydic blends, Guerlain ventured into uncharted territory with a fragrance both shadowed and luminous, abstract yet profoundly emotional. Its unusual balance of green, leathery, and oriental tones gave it a complexity that felt ahead of its time—neither wholly feminine nor masculine, but something eternal.
The legacy of Vol de Nuit endures not only as a masterpiece of perfumery but also as a cultural emblem. Every year, the French Air Force College at Salon-de-Provence commissions special presentation boxes of Vol de Nuit, decorated with the emblem of the French Wings, to present during official visits abroad. This long-standing tradition honors both France’s aeronautical heritage and Guerlain’s symbolic association with the nobility of flight. The choice of this perfume is deeply meaningful—it represents not only the courage and elegance of French aviation but also the enduring artistry of a house that turned human aspiration into fragrance.
In essence, Vol de Nuit is more than a perfume—it is an olfactory sonnet to courage, love, and the beauty of the night sky.
What does it smell like? The original 1933 version of Vol de Nuit is classified as a oriental chypre fragrance for women. Blended with the hesperidic aromas of expressed citrus peel oils, are dry mountain herbs: bay, marjoram, basil, rosemary, mint, thyme, and the lyre sage of Provence and flowers of the mountains: laurel, dittany and lavender. The narcotic sorcery of jasmine and orange blossom is tendered by violets, narcissus, roses, dusty orris root heated with the pungency of spices: nutmeg, coriander and cinnamon. Vegetal mossy covered oaks are mixed with the essences of exotic woods, myrrh, vanilla and animalic infusions of civet, musk, precious ambergris and castoreum.
- Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, orange, orange blossom, mandarin orange, lemon, petitgrain, basil, rosemary, mint, Provencal lyre sage, galbanum
- Middle notes: phenylethyl alcohol, cinnamic alcohol, linalool, lavender, wild thyme, marjoram, bay leaf, dittany, Bulgarian rose, jonquil, daffodil, narcissus, jasmine, orris, violet, Iralia, carnation, nutmeg, coriander and cinnamon
- Base notes: myrrh, frankincense, spikenard, cascarilla, castoreum, musk, oakmoss, vanilla, ambergris, ambreine, civet, costus, patchouli, vetiver, vetiveryl acetate, and sandalwood
Marie-Claire, 1937:
The first impression of Vol de Nuit (1933) is a luminous ascent — a shimmer of aldehydes that gives the air a silvery, effervescent sparkle, as though moonlight were caught in a crystal decanter. Their metallic brightness lifts the entire composition, creating a celestial glow that feels at once modern and timeless. Then, a radiant burst of bergamot and mandarin orange from Calabria spills forth — sharp, sweet, and sun-warmed — joined by the honeyed purity of neroli and orange blossom from Tunisia, whose natural linalool and nerolidol impart both floral creaminess and a delicate green zest. Lemon and petitgrain add a crisp, almost sparkling greenness, while basil, rosemary, and mint bring the cool, resinous breath of a Mediterranean herb garden. Galbanum, with its bitter, green intensity, binds these notes together like a ribbon of shaded forest air, while the lyre sage of Provence contributes a uniquely dry, aromatic sharpness—distinct from common sage by its sun-bleached, slightly peppery edge.
As the fragrance warms on the skin, the heart unfurls into a complex floral tapestry—lush, narcotic, and alive with movement. Phenylethyl alcohol lends the tender, dewy sweetness of rose petals, while cinnamic alcohol brings a faintly balsamic, spicy warmth that deepens the floral core. Lavender, with its camphorous linalool and coumarinic undertones, bridges the herbal brightness of the top with the floral opulence of the middle. Wild thyme, marjoram, and bay leaf offer a shadowy aromatic counterpoint—herbal yet musky—evoking the scent of warm leaves crushed between fingers.
"Vol de Nuit: Subtle and sophisticated—a true chypre for the woman of the world. She brings grace and distinction wherever she goes, honoring her husband when she accompanies him out, and welcoming guests with perfect poise. Elegant and refined, she is the very image of la charmante Madame X.
This ethereal fragrance seems to soar above nocturnal gardens, a “supernatural flight” through the stillness of the night. Guerlain, ever the magician, has captured the melody of open skies and moonlit air in a suave, luminous scent that reveals its full character when it mingles with the warmth of fur."
Combat, 1955:
"Vol de Nuit (Eau de Cologne Parfumée) by Guerlain — created for the most refined of city dwellers, as if the fireflies of a Mediterranean night had composed a secret elixir from the rugged herbs of the sun-scorched earth. Notes of lavender, basil, rosemary, mint, bay leaf, and the wild lyreleaf sage of Provence intertwine with exotic accents of spikenard, nutmeg, cascarilla, and dittany. Stacte—the liqueur of myrrh—blends with pillolet, the essence of wild thyme, evoking the distant sound of the sea gently lapping against a rocky shore, even behind closed curtains on a sumptuous night. Then, the enchantment deepens: roses, warmed by civet and castoreum, transform this aromatic tapestry of brushwood and moss into a regal cloak—mysterious, sensual, and utterly Guerlain."
Scent Profile:
The first impression of Vol de Nuit (1933) is a luminous ascent — a shimmer of aldehydes that gives the air a silvery, effervescent sparkle, as though moonlight were caught in a crystal decanter. Their metallic brightness lifts the entire composition, creating a celestial glow that feels at once modern and timeless. Then, a radiant burst of bergamot and mandarin orange from Calabria spills forth — sharp, sweet, and sun-warmed — joined by the honeyed purity of neroli and orange blossom from Tunisia, whose natural linalool and nerolidol impart both floral creaminess and a delicate green zest. Lemon and petitgrain add a crisp, almost sparkling greenness, while basil, rosemary, and mint bring the cool, resinous breath of a Mediterranean herb garden. Galbanum, with its bitter, green intensity, binds these notes together like a ribbon of shaded forest air, while the lyre sage of Provence contributes a uniquely dry, aromatic sharpness—distinct from common sage by its sun-bleached, slightly peppery edge.
As the fragrance warms on the skin, the heart unfurls into a complex floral tapestry—lush, narcotic, and alive with movement. Phenylethyl alcohol lends the tender, dewy sweetness of rose petals, while cinnamic alcohol brings a faintly balsamic, spicy warmth that deepens the floral core. Lavender, with its camphorous linalool and coumarinic undertones, bridges the herbal brightness of the top with the floral opulence of the middle. Wild thyme, marjoram, and bay leaf offer a shadowy aromatic counterpoint—herbal yet musky—evoking the scent of warm leaves crushed between fingers.
From the heart of the bouquet, Bulgarian rose rises with its velvety, honeyed richness, while jonquil, daffodil, and narcissus lend their narcotic, green-floral intensity, tinged with indole and hay-like sweetness. Jasmine and violet add both creaminess and powder, while orris—derived from the aged rhizomes of the Iris pallida of Tuscany—infuses an earthy, buttery luxury, its irones imparting the powdery, violet-like timbre that made the Guerlain base so enduring. A touch of Iralia, a synthetic ionone, heightens this violet facet—its crystalline structure refining and expanding the natural orris without overshadowing it. The interplay of nutmeg, cinnamon, and coriander gives the composition warmth and spiced complexity, echoing the exoticism of the faraway lands that inspired the fragrance’s name.
The base of Vol de Nuit is where its true mystery lies—a deep, glowing darkness that lingers like the hush of twilight. Myrrh and frankincense, resins gathered from trees of Arabia and Somalia, offer a balsamic smoke, while spikenard—the ancient aromatic root from the Himalayas—adds an earthy, animalic whisper of moss and wood. Cascarilla bark, rare and complex, provides a dry, bitter spice reminiscent of tobacco and roasted cocoa.
The base of Vol de Nuit is where its true mystery lies—a deep, glowing darkness that lingers like the hush of twilight. Myrrh and frankincense, resins gathered from trees of Arabia and Somalia, offer a balsamic smoke, while spikenard—the ancient aromatic root from the Himalayas—adds an earthy, animalic whisper of moss and wood. Cascarilla bark, rare and complex, provides a dry, bitter spice reminiscent of tobacco and roasted cocoa.
Against this smoldering base, castoreum, musk, and civet lend their sensual animal warmth, breathing life and skin-like depth into the perfume. These natural animalics, rich in muscone and civetone, were artfully balanced with synthetic counterparts such as ambreine and vetiveryl acetate—materials that extend and refine their warmth, ensuring both longevity and harmony. Oakmoss—the defining chypre element—anchors everything with its inky, forest-damp character, melding with vetiver and patchouli to create a landscape of roots and shadows. Sandalwood from Mysore adds a creamy, sacred smoothness, while ambergris, with its salty, marine animality, gives the base its enduring, sensual glow.
Together, these elements compose an olfactory flight—a night journey through clouds, over distant lands, and into the heart of mystery. It is both grounded and ethereal, civilized yet primal. Vol de Nuit captures the paradox of its name: the stillness and thrill of flying through the night, where danger and beauty exist in perfect balance, and where the scent of earth, sky, and human warmth mingle into one timeless breath.
Together, these elements compose an olfactory flight—a night journey through clouds, over distant lands, and into the heart of mystery. It is both grounded and ethereal, civilized yet primal. Vol de Nuit captures the paradox of its name: the stillness and thrill of flying through the night, where danger and beauty exist in perfect balance, and where the scent of earth, sky, and human warmth mingle into one timeless breath.
Vol de Nuit (1989 Version):
Vol de Nuit vintage version (1989) is classified as a sweet oriental fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh orange top, followed by an exotic floral heart, resting on a sweet balsamic powdery base. This bold and adventurous woody and spicy fragrance is offset with hints of vanilla, jonquil, wood and spices.
- Top notes: orange, bergamot, lemon, mandarin, orange blossom
- Middle notes: jonquil, rosewood, jasmine, palmarosa, ylang ylang
- Base notes: vanilla, benzoin, Peru balsam, musk, ambergris, sandalwood, leather
Scent Profile:
By contrast, the 1989 vintage reformulation of Vol de Nuit shifts tone entirely, softening its density and modernizing its character to appeal to the late 20th-century palate. The bright top of orange, bergamot, lemon, mandarin, and orange blossom is familiar, but it is lighter — smoother, less green and aromatic. The herbal and aldehydic facets are diminished, replaced by a rounder citrus accord, emphasizing sweetness rather than austerity. The floral heart, too, is simplified: jonquil remains as a link to the original, but rosewood, jasmine, palmarosa, and ylang-ylang replace the dense tapestry of Bulgarian rose, narcissus, and violet. Palmarosa introduces a rosy, slightly citrus facet with geraniol, while ylang-ylang adds creaminess and tropical warmth — a distinctly 1980s sensuality. The result is a floral heart more luminous, more openly feminine, and less abstract than the 1933 composition.
The base of the 1989 version reflects a shift toward warmth and smoothness: vanilla, benzoin, Peru balsam, musk, ambergris, and sandalwood dominate, with a hint of leather giving subtle tension. Peru balsam, with its cinnamon-vanilla nuance, and benzoin, with its resinous sweetness, together create a balsamic, powdery cocoon that feels plush rather than mysterious. The animalic civet and castoreum of 1933 have been softened — likely due to regulations and changing tastes — and replaced by musk and amber, creating a velvety, skin-like sensuality rather than the primal warmth of the original.
The reformulation reflects not only evolving olfactory trends but also technical and regulatory changes. The late 1980s favored sweeter, creamier orientals (such as Obsession or Shalimar Eau de Parfum/Parfum de Toilette), and animal-derived materials like civet and castoreum were being phased out. Guerlain adapted by heightening the vanilla-amber accord, amplifying the creamy musks, and simplifying the florals to retain Vol de Nuit’s spirit of mystery, but with modern softness.
To smell the two versions side by side is to experience time passing: the 1933 version feels like the scent of the aviator’s night — leather gloves, altitude, and fur collars in moonlight — while the 1989 version feels like its memory retold in silk, amber light, and nostalgia. Both carry the same soul of adventure, but the earlier speaks in poetry and shadow, the later in warmth and whisper.
Bottles:
Vol de Nuit Parfum by Guerlain, first released in 1933, was not only a masterpiece of perfumery but also a triumph of design, expressed through a remarkable succession of flacons that reflected nearly every era of Guerlain’s aesthetic evolution. Each bottle that held Vol de Nuit — whether in crystal, smoked glass, or frosted form — was a tangible extension of its mysterious, nocturnal character.
The smoked glass flacon Rayonnant, produced from 1933 to 1983, became one of the perfume’s most recognizable presentations. Its deep, smoky hue suggested the veil of twilight, while its radiant sunburst design echoed the glimmer of light breaking through darkness — a perfect metaphor for Vol de Nuit’s duality: shadow and luminescence, strength and tenderness.
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Alongside it, the Borne flacon (1933–1960s) carried the same fragrance in a more architectural form, its upright stature and minimalist elegance evoking stability and refinement. During the 1930s and 1940s, the Petit Beurre flacon — named for its resemblance to a small butter biscuit — offered a compact, endearing format for the parfum, while the Guerre flacon (1938–1945) emerged during wartime, its design more restrained but deeply evocative of the era’s stoic beauty. The cobalt blue flacon Lanterne was used from 1935 to 1943, mostly for export to the UK and United States.
In the postwar years, Guerlain embraced the sensual modernism of the Amphore flacon, made of frosted glass and used from 1955 to 1982. With its curving silhouette reminiscent of ancient vessels, the Amphore brought a classical softness to Vol de Nuit, visually echoing the femininity and mystery of the fragrance itself.
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The Flacon de Sac, affectionately known as the parapluie (“umbrella”) bottle, was produced from 1952 to 1978 and became a favored travel companion — elegant, discreet, and practical. The quadrilobe stoppered flacon, used for parfum presentations, embodied Guerlain’s most timeless design — a symbol of the house’s heritage and enduring craftsmanship. On special request, Vol de Nuit could also be decanted into the Bee Bottle, the emblem of Guerlain’s royal lineage, blending the perfume’s nocturnal mystique with the maison’s golden tradition.
For the lighter concentrations, Guerlain continued this design lineage with equal artistry. The Goutte flacon, a teardrop-shaped bottle used for the Eau de Toilette from 1933 to 2001, conveyed grace and simplicity, while the Montre flacon — a sleek, round “watch” design — housed the Eau de Cologne from 1936 to 1999, merging modernity with intimacy. The Flacon de Voyage (1955–2002) provided elegant portability for the traveler, a nod to the perfume’s aviation-inspired theme. Other specialty formats included the Flacon Capsule (1933–1971) for Lotion Végétale, the Lyre Bath Oil Flacons introduced around 1952, and the frosted glass Lyre Talcum Poudreur bottles (1947–1980s), which carried the scent into luxurious body care.
Over the decades, Vol de Nuit was also translated into a variety of spray and ancillary forms that reflected changing beauty rituals. The Film Spray (1966–1975) offered a scented moisturizing body mist — an innovation in light, perfumed skincare. The Capillaque Hair Spray (1961–1971) extended Vol de Nuit’s glamour to the coiffure, while the enameled Delft-style refillable atomizers (1965–1982) added a decorative touch reminiscent of fine porcelain. During the 1960s and 1970s, the ribbed glass Natural Spray Cologne bottles (1964–1977) became household icons of modern perfumery. Later came the Habit de Fête series — ornate latticework flacons (1982–1990) followed by the playful bubble motif versions (from 1996 onward), each expressing the celebratory spirit of Guerlain’s limited editions.
Finally, the Le Sucrier de Madame demonstration bottles, crafted from gilded brass between 1980 and 2008, recalled 19th-century opulence, offering a grand, theatrical flourish worthy of Guerlain’s heritage.
Through each of these incarnations, Vol de Nuit remained unmistakable — its identity preserved across decades of artistry. Whether encased in smoky glass, frosted amphora, or radiant gilt, every flacon captured the essence of flight, light, and night — the timeless mystery that has made Vol de Nuit one of Guerlain’s most evocative creations.
Through each of these incarnations, Vol de Nuit remained unmistakable — its identity preserved across decades of artistry. Whether encased in smoky glass, frosted amphora, or radiant gilt, every flacon captured the essence of flight, light, and night — the timeless mystery that has made Vol de Nuit one of Guerlain’s most evocative creations.
Fate of the Fragrance:
The Vol de Nuit Parfum was officially discontinued in 2022, marking the end of an era for one of Guerlain’s most storied creations. The fragrance had held a near-mythical status for nearly ninety years, and its legacy lives on through its Eau de Toilette, which was thoughtfully reformulated in 2021 and relaunched as part of Guerlain’s prestigious Les Légendaires collection. This collection celebrates the house’s most iconic perfumes, bringing together emblematic creations composed over more than a century by five generations of Guerlain perfumers. These fragrances form a unique olfactive library, a curated chronicle of pioneering compositions that the Maison carefully preserves for both historical and artistic significance.
As part of the Patrimoine Collection, Vol de Nuit represents the Maison’s dedication to heritage and craft. It is a fragrance that embodies history, innovation, and timeless sophistication. However, modern regulatory and safety requirements necessitated a careful reformulation. Over the years, certain natural and synthetic ingredients traditionally used in perfumery have been restricted or banned due to updated safety standards enforced by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA).
In the case of Vol de Nuit, this likely included adjustments to oakmoss, civet, ambergris, and certain nitro-musks, as well as the regulation of some aldehydes and phenolic compounds. Oakmoss, a critical component of chypre fragrances, has been restricted because of allergenic potential, while civet and natural ambergris, once used for their animalic warmth, are either banned or replaced with synthetic equivalents to ensure ethical sourcing and safety. These modifications are designed to maintain the essence and character of the original scent while meeting contemporary safety standards, preserving the balance between the woody, floral, and oriental nuances that define Vol de Nuit.
The reformulated Eau de Toilette thus bridges history and modernity: it retains the spirit of the 1933 creation while aligning with 21st-century regulations. By doing so, Guerlain ensures that this legendary fragrance continues to enchant new generations of connoisseurs, even as the original Parfum gracefully exits the Maison’s active repertoire.
2021 Version:
So what does it smell like? The 2021 version of Vol de Nuit is classified as a floral amber fragrance for women.
- Top notes: galbanum, bergamot and petitgrain
- Middle notes: narcissus, spices and jasmine
- Base notes: vanilla, woody notes, patchouli and ambergris accord
Scent Profile:
The 2021 Vol de Nuit Eau de Toilette, relaunched as part of Guerlain’s Les Légendaires collection, is a masterful reinterpretation of the 1933 classic, now classified as a floral amber for women. The fragrance opens with a vivid green burst of galbanum, a resin historically sourced from the Middle East, particularly Iran and Afghanistan, known for its sharp, almost slightly bitter green aroma with a resinous, balsamic undertone. Galbanum’s unique intensity sets it apart from other green notes like oakmoss or petitgrain, offering a sparkling, almost crystalline freshness. This is complemented by bergamot, grown in the sunny groves of Calabria, Italy, prized for its radiant citrus sweetness with a subtle bitter nuance that deepens the opening, and petitgrain from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, which adds a fresh, slightly woody green lift with floral nuances. Together, these top notes create an opening that is both bright and sophisticated, reminiscent of the original 1933 Vol de Nuit, but lighter and more contemporary in its crispness. Compared to the 1989 vintage, which opened with heavier, juicier citrus and a pronounced orange blossom sweetness, the 2021 version is more restrained and elegant, emphasizing clarity and green brightness over bold juiciness.
The heart of the perfume is richly floral yet subtly spiced. Narcissus, sourced primarily from Morocco, imbues the fragrance with its unmistakable green-floral narcotic scent, combining fresh green leaves with a soft, creamy floral facet. This is joined by jasmine, likely from Grasse, France, whose warm, honeyed, and slightly indolic facets add depth and sensuality, and a delicate spicy accord—likely inspired by classic Vol de Nuit spices such as nutmeg or cinnamon—giving the middle notes a subtle warmth. In contrast to the 1933 original, which used a far larger palette of spices and florals including rose, iris, violet, and carnation, the 2021 formulation simplifies the heart to emphasize clarity and elegance, preserving the exotic, nocturnal feel but in a modern, cleaner interpretation. The 1989 version, with its exotic floral heart accented by rosewood and palmarosa, felt richer, deeper, and more assertive, whereas the 2021 iteration feels fresher and more airy, making it more approachable for contemporary wearers.
The base of the fragrance grounds it with a warm and sensual amber-woody foundation. Vanilla, likely sourced from Madagascar or Tahiti, contributes a creamy sweetness that softens the sharpness of the green and spice. Patchouli, probably Indonesian in origin, gives an earthy, slightly camphorous depth, while woody notes and an ambergris accord add sophistication and lingering warmth. In the original 1933 Vol de Nuit, the base was far more opulent and animalic, featuring ingredients like oakmoss, civet, ambergris, castoreum, myrrh, and vetiver, which gave the fragrance a rich, leathery, and smoky character. The 1989 version retained some of the warmth and balsamic depth through benzoin, Peru balsam, and ambergris, but with sweeter, more modern touches such as vanilla. The 2021 reformulation retains the warmth and resinous feel but presents it in a cleaner, safer, and more transparent way, with the ambergris accord recreating the animalic complexity without the use of restricted materials like civet or natural ambergris.
Overall, the 2021 Vol de Nuit honors the nocturnal, adventurous spirit of the original 1933 creation—its boldness, sophistication, and sense of mystery—while adapting it for modern sensibilities. The top is fresh, galbanum-driven, and sparkling, the heart is elegantly floral with gentle spices, and the base is a comforting yet refined amber-woody blend. Compared to the 1989 vintage, which leaned heavier on exotic florals and sweet balsamics, and the 1933 original, which was dense, spicy, and animalic, the 2021 version feels lighter, more transparent, and refined, allowing the wearer to experience the iconic Vol de Nuit character in a contemporary context while respecting IFRA-compliant safety regulations. It is a fragrance that invites both nostalgia and modern elegance, bridging Guerlain’s storied history with today’s olfactive expectations.
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