Fleur Qui Meurt c1901

Fleur Qui Meurt was launched by Guerlain in 1901, during the Belle Époque—a period of artistic flourishing, elegance, and refined luxury in Europe. The name, French for “The Dying Flower” (pronounced "flur kee muh"), evokes delicate beauty, fleeting moments, and the tender poignancy of life’s transience. Guerlain’s choice of this name reflects the fragrance’s essence: a perfume that captures the final, fragile breath of a violet flower, immortalizing its fleeting charm. The imagery and emotions evoked are intimate and wistful—soft mauve petals fading in gentle light, tender memories of a moment too quickly gone, and the bittersweet interplay between presence and nostalgia.

Created by Jacques Guerlain, Fleur Qui Meurt was celebrated for its exceptional purity and sensitivity, particularly in its handling of violet. At the turn of the 20th century, violet was one of the most cherished and enduring floral notes in perfumery, yet the majority of violet extracts were artificial, derived from chemical syntheses rather than the true blossoms. Guerlain, however, drew only from authentic violet flowers, capturing the subtle powdery sweetness, the airy softness, and the fragile elegance of the natural bloom. This dedication to authenticity resulted in a perfume that stood out as a true quintessence of violet, offering women a fragrance of refined sophistication and understated intimacy.

The composition is classified as a powdery floral chypre musk fragrance, with soft violet notes resting delicately upon a musky, chypre-infused base. The gentle musks and subtle earthy chypre accord provide depth and grounding to the airy floralcy, creating a nuanced interplay between fragility and structure. Women of the Belle Époque, attuned to elegance, romance, and refinement in both fashion and lifestyle, would have been drawn to Fleur Qui Meurt for its intimate charm, its delicate powderiness, and its ability to evoke both beauty and ephemeral emotion. It offered an olfactory metaphor for fleeting femininity, a whisper of softness and sensitivity amid the opulent fashions and luxurious surroundings of the time.

The perfume was housed in the “fleuri” bottle, adorned with a bouquet of mauve silk flowers encircling the neck, reflecting the perfume’s violet-centered theme and enhancing its romantic, delicate presentation. In the context of the market, Fleur Qui Meurt was remarkable for its authentic floral purity, distinguishing itself from contemporaneous violet perfumes that relied on synthetic approximations. Its delicate, powdery character and emotional resonance made it both fashionable and unique—a fragrance that balanced the prevailing trends of floral elegance with Guerlain’s artistry and innovation, creating a timeless expression of fragility, beauty, and refined sophistication.

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Fleur Qui Meurt by Guerlain is classified as a powdery floral chypre musk fragrance for women. Powdery violets over a musky chypre base.

• Top notes: violet, costus, reseda, green notes
• Middle notes: jasmine, orris, violet, heliotrope, patchouli, vetiver
• Base notes: oakmoss, acacia and musk

 

Scent Profile:

From the first inhalation, Fleur Qui Meurt immediately reveals the delicate, powdery charm of violet, the star of the composition. Guerlain’s violet is derived from true blossoms, rather than relying solely on synthetic approximations, giving it a soft, airy, and authentic floral sweetness that is instantly recognizable. Layered beneath, costus imparts a slightly earthy, leathery warmth, adding depth and contrast to the ethereal violet, while reseda, a green, herbaceous floral note, provides a fresh, dewy lift. Subtle green notes enhance the sensation of walking through a sunlit violet garden, emphasizing the fragrance’s natural, tender opening. Together, these notes create a luminous yet fragile first impression, delicate as a fleeting flower, evoking the essence of transience and quiet elegance.

As the perfume deepens, the heart unfolds into a rich floral-spicy bouquet. Jasmine, possibly from Grasse, brings creamy, opulent floralcy, while orris—the prized rhizome of the iris—adds a powdery, slightly woody richness that complements the violet. A second layer of violet reinforces the soft, powdery sweetness, while heliotrope contributes a subtly almond-like, gourmand nuance, creamy and comforting. The addition of patchouli introduces a warm, earthy depth, balancing the airy florals with gentle grounding, and vetiver adds a smoky, green-woody complexity that enhances longevity. Synthetics are carefully woven into the composition here, accentuating the florals, smoothing transitions between notes, and ensuring that the bouquet remains luminous, harmonious, and long-lasting.

The base notes provide a lasting, intimate foundation, anchoring the fragrance in sophistication and subtle sensuality. Oakmoss delivers a soft, earthy, forest-like depth characteristic of classic chypres, while acacia adds a sweet, almost honeyed floral nuance that rounds out the base. Musk, both natural and enhanced with synthetics, creates a soft, skin-like warmth, lingering delicately and tying together the powdery florals and earthy chypre notes. The result is an elegant, enduring trail that evokes the quiet intimacy of a violet garden at twilight—fragile, tender, yet deeply memorable.

Overall, Fleur Qui Meurt is a masterful orchestration of powdery florals and musky chypre depth. The authentic violet conveys fragility and ephemeral beauty, while the rich heart and grounding base lend sophistication, warmth, and longevity. Guerlain’s artistry lies in balancing these contrasts: the fleeting freshness of top notes, the creamy complexity of the heart, and the intimate, powdery trail of the base. The fragrance embodies both nostalgia and elegance, evoking the tender, transient beauty of a flower in its final bloom—a sensory expression of its evocative name, “The Dying Flower.”

Harper's Weekly, 1903:

"Guerlain who levies upon the flowers alone to yield to him their filmy treasures, has succeeded in obtaining the quintessence of exquisite Violet perfumes in his delightful "Fleur Qui Meurt."

 

Bottles:

Fleur Qui Meurt, the delicate violet flower that died too soon, "is presented in a bottle called "fleuri" because it was marketed with a bouquet of mauve silk flowers encircled by a collar on the bottle neck."

  

Fate of the Fragrance:

Fleur Qui Meurt was launched by Guerlain in 1901, during the Belle Époque, an era of elegance, artistic flourishing, and luxurious refinement in Europe. Its delicate, powdery violet composition reflected the period’s fascination with refined, romantic florals, appealing to women who valued subtle sophistication and emotional resonance in their perfumes. The name, “The Dying Flower”, captured the ephemeral beauty of its signature violet, evoking tender nostalgia and the fleeting grace of nature itself.

Although the exact date of discontinuation is unknown, records indicate that Fleur Qui Meurt was still being sold as late as 1941, demonstrating its enduring appeal across four decades. Its longevity on the market is a testament to Guerlain’s artistry, particularly in capturing the authentic essence of violet at a time when many violet extracts were artificially recreated. The fragrance’s sophisticated blend of powdery florals, chypre undertones, and musky depth allowed it to remain relevant through changing tastes and societal upheavals, including the interwar period.

Even after it ceased regular production, Fleur Qui Meurt continued to be celebrated for its delicate elegance, refined composition, and the emotive qualities that made it both a personal and cultural treasure. It stands as a quintessential example of early 20th-century perfumery, embodying both the technical mastery and poetic sensitivity that defined Guerlain’s work, offering a fragrant snapshot of a bygone era of grace and refinement.

Fleur de Feu c1948

Fleur de Feu was launched by Guerlain in France in 1948 and in the United States in 1949, marking a moment of renewal and celebration in the aftermath of World War II. Its name, French for “Flower of Fire” (pronounced "flur duh fuh"), evokes powerful imagery of a phoenix rising from the flames—a symbol of rebirth, resilience, and triumph. Guerlain chose this name to celebrate both the liberation of Paris and the house’s 120th anniversary, making the perfume not only a work of olfactory artistry but also a commemorative emblem of hope, renewal, and enduring elegance. The words conjure images of vibrant blossoms emerging from ashes, suffused with warmth, energy, and passionate beauty, evoking both excitement and emotional uplift.

Created by Jacques Guerlain, Fleur de Feu is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance, a composition that layers bright, sparkling aldehydes over spicy, opulent florals and the signature Guerlinade accord. This accord—an elegant blend of iris, jasmine, bergamot, rose, vanilla, tonka bean, and soft woods—adds warmth, depth, and complexity, acting as a harmonious base that binds the fiery florals into a cohesive whole. Women of the late 1940s, emerging from the austerity and hardship of wartime, would have embraced Fleur de Feu as a perfume of liberation and indulgence: bold yet elegant, celebratory yet intimate. Its name and scent together suggest empowerment and vitality, capturing the mood of a society eager to reclaim joy, style, and beauty.

The period following World War II, often referred to as the post-war era, was a time of reconstruction, renewed optimism, and cultural resurgence. In fashion, Christian Dior’s New Look of 1947 had just revolutionized style, emphasizing femininity, elegance, and lavishness after years of wartime austerity. Perfume trends followed suit, favoring rich, aldehydic florals that combined freshness with luxurious depth. In this context, Fleur de Feu was both on trend and unique: it embraced the aldehydic floral movement popularized by Chanel No. 5, yet its spicy floral heart and the Guerlinade signature accord gave it a distinct Guerlain identity, exuding warmth, sophistication, and a sense of triumphant exuberance.

In scent, Fleur de Feu can be interpreted as a metaphor for the energy and resilience of the time. The aldehydes sparkle like sunlight on flames, the spicy florals suggest a fiery elegance, and the Guerlinade base provides enduring warmth, softening the composition while giving it depth and intimacy. It is a fragrance that celebrates renewal, radiates optimism, and embodies the passionate elegance of post-war Paris—a perfume both historic and timeless, capturing the spirit of its era in every luminous, fiery note.

. 

Barrier Miner (Broken Hill, NSW : 1888 - 1954), Monday 12 February 1951

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Fleur de Feu by Guerlain is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. Spicy flowers layered over the Guerlinade accord.

• Top notes: aldehydes, honey, jasmine, bergamot
• Middle notes: jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, ylang ylang, violet, musk, sandalwood, sweet acacia, carnation
• Base notes: musk, heliotrope, tonka bean, vanilla, orris

Scent Profile:

From the very first spray, Fleur de Feu opens with a sparkling brilliance that is both radiant and electrifying. Aldehydes create a luminous, effervescent shimmer, infusing the fragrance with clarity and a sense of airy sophistication, reminiscent of sunlight dancing on delicate petals. Layered with this is honey, offering a soft, gourmand sweetness that adds warmth and richness, subtly balancing the brightness of the aldehydes. Jasmine, likely sourced from Grasse, France, provides a creamy, heady floralcy that feels both opulent and tender, while bergamot from Calabria, Italy, introduces a citrusy brilliance with a slightly green nuance, enhancing the top’s sparkling freshness. Together, these notes evoke an immediate impression of vibrancy, optimism, and radiant femininity, capturing the celebratory spirit of post-war Paris.

As the fragrance develops, the heart unfolds with a bouquet of spicy, floral, and exotic notes. The second layer begins with jasmine again, deepening the floral complexity, accompanied by the delicate, airy green freshness of lily of the valley, which provides a soft, almost dewy elegance. Rose, with its timeless velvet richness, is enhanced by subtle aroma chemicals that prolong its luminosity, while ylang-ylang, often from Madagascar or Comoros, contributes a creamy, slightly tropical floralcy that adds sensual depth. Violet introduces a powdery, slightly green nuance, while musk in the heart softens and ties the florals together, creating a gentle, skin-like intimacy. Sandalwood lends a smooth, woody warmth, while sweet acacia and carnation provide gentle spiciness and a honeyed nuance that complements the aldehydic top notes. Here, the careful use of synthetics—enhancers for jasmine, violet, and musk—ensures that each floral note maintains clarity and longevity, while blending harmoniously with the richness of the composition.

The base notes reveal a warm, lingering, and intimate depth, giving the fragrance its enduring elegance. Musk continues to provide a soft, sensuous veil that envelops the wearer, while heliotrope adds a powdery, almond-like sweetness, evoking nostalgia and comforting refinement. Tonka bean, with its warm, vanilla-almond nuances, reinforces the gourmand undertones, while vanilla enhances the cozy sweetness and longevity of the composition. Orris, derived from the rhizome of the iris plant, provides a sophisticated powdery texture and subtle floral-woody nuance, distinguishing Fleur de Feu’s base from simpler, linear compositions. The interplay of natural extracts with synthetic enhancers—aldehydes, musks, and fixatives—ensures that each layer is luminous, long-lasting, and perfectly balanced, allowing the spicy, floral, and gourmand elements to coexist in harmonious elegance.

Altogether, Fleur de Feu is a masterclass in layered sophistication: the sparkling, aldehydic top notes evoke clarity and celebration; the spicy, floral heart conveys vibrancy, sensuality, and elegance; and the warm, powdery, gourmand base ensures intimacy and enduring presence. It is a fragrance that embodies both triumph and femininity, capturing the emotional resonance of rebirth, the exuberance of post-war Paris, and the timeless artistry of Guerlain, where each note—natural or enhanced—is orchestrated to create a luminous, fiery, and unforgettable bouquet.

The New Yorker, 1950:

"Fleur de Feu, a fragrance or rare fascination, combining the delicacy of flowers with the drama of flame in this compelling bouquet. 2/3 oz $14.00."

Fleur de Feu retailed for $14, $24 and $45 in 1951.

L'Atlantique, 1952:

"Despite its name exotic name, the latest Guerlain perfume, 'Fleur de Feu' is a delicate flower scent of which someone has said that "it has the freshness of dew, the aroma of a field of flowers in the dawn." It is a perfect scent for the woman who likes alluring subteley instead of strength."

Bottles:

Presented in a variety of formats—including 2½ oz and 4 oz crystal Fleur de Feu bottles, the ‘Capsule’ flacon for lotion vegetale, Quadrilobe and Amphore flacons for parfum, the Goutte flacon for eau de toilette, and the Montre flacon for eau de cologne

Fate of the Fragrance:

Fleur de Feu was launched by Guerlain in 1948, a time of rejuvenation and celebration following the end of World War II. Its vibrant, aldehydic floral composition reflected the optimism and renewed energy of post-war society, offering women a perfume that was both elegant and spirited—a fragrant emblem of liberation and triumph. The name, “Flower of Fire”, conveyed passion, vitality, and the idea of beauty emerging from adversity, resonating deeply with the cultural mood of the era.

The fragrance remained available on the market at least until 1959, demonstrating its continued popularity and relevance over more than a decade. Its enduring appeal can be attributed to the sophisticated interplay of aldehydic brightness, opulent florals, and the warm, powdery Guerlinade accord, which allowed it to stand out in the competitive post-war perfume landscape. Guerlain’s artistry ensured that Fleur de Feu remained a symbol of both elegance and resilience, offering women a sense of empowerment, celebration, and indulgence during a period of social renewal.

The exact date of its discontinuation is unknown, but even after production ceased, Fleur de Feu remained a notable example of Guerlain’s post-war creativity, admired for its fiery elegance, masterful composition, and ability to capture the spirit of an era marked by hope, reconstruction, and renewed joie de vivre.

 

Jasmin c1835

Jasmin by Guerlain was originally launched around 1835, composed by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. The name, Jasmin, is the French word for jasmine, pronounced "zhaz-MAN". The word evokes images of sun-drenched gardens, trailing vines heavy with delicate, white blossoms, and the heady, intoxicating aroma of the flower in full bloom. Emotionally, it suggests romance, elegance, and a timeless femininity, capturing both the purity and sensuality associated with jasmine.

The perfume was introduced during a period of refinement in early 19th-century France, a time when the country was recovering from political upheaval and women’s fashion emphasized graceful, flowing silhouettes, often complemented by delicate floral scents. Perfumes were becoming increasingly popular among the bourgeoisie and aristocracy, with jasmine serving as a particularly beloved motif due to its natural sweetness, complexity, and long-lasting fragrance. Women of the period would have immediately associated a perfume called Jasmin with sophistication, luxury, and refined femininity, as jasmine was celebrated both in perfumery and in decorative arts.

In scent, Jasmin was interpreted as a rich, luminous floral fragrance, emphasizing the lush, indolic warmth of true jasmine blossoms. During the 19th century, nearly every perfumery offered its own version of jasmine, based on a general structural formula. Perfumers often adjusted ingredients to create a signature style, and Guerlain’s version stood out for its refined balance and the house’s meticulous craftsmanship. Early formulations relied heavily on natural extracts, tinctures, and infusions, capturing the authentic essence of jasmine. By the close of the century, however, modern aromachemicals and synthetics began to appear, either to substitute for costly raw materials or to enhance the natural note, adding clarity, longevity, or subtle lift without overshadowing the flower’s inherent richness.

Jasmin remained in production for many decades, still being sold in 1853, and its enduring popularity prompted Jacques Guerlain to release updated versions in 1906 and 1922, reflecting both changing olfactory fashions and innovations in fragrance chemistry. While jasmine perfumes were widespread on the market, Guerlain’s formulations were recognized for their elegance, refinement, and the masterful integration of natural and synthetic elements—a hallmark of the house’s artistry.

 Originally housed in the Carre flacon (parfum), it remained in production for many decades, still being sold in 1853.  It continued to be offered until at least the 1950s. Over the years it was presented in several iconic bottles, including the quadrilobe flacon (parfum), the Amphore flacon (parfum), Lalique’s Bouquet de Faunes flacon (parfum), and the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette). It is classified as a soft floral animalic oriental fragrance for women with a dominant jasmine note.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Guerlain's Jasmin is classified as a soft floral fragrance for women with a dominant sweet jasmine note.

• Top notes: orange blossom, apricot, jasmine, lemon, bergamot, cassie 
• Middle notes: methyl anthranilate, lavender, rose, honey, sambac jasmine, indol, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, orris 
• Base notes: blond tobacco, sambac jasmine, civet, oakmoss, leather, vetiver, ambergris, balsam, sandalwood, vanilla, storax and Tonkin musk

Recently, I was fortunate to obtain a sample of Guerlain’s Jasmin from my good friend Alexandra Star, who curates an impressive collection of rare antique Guerlain treasures in her Etsy shop, Parfums de Paris. For those eager to experience the refined, floral elegance of this historic fragrance, her collection is well worth exploring.

Scent Profile:

Guerlain’s Jasmin is a masterful soft floral fragrance, where jasmine dominates with a lush, enveloping sweetness. The top notes open with a sparkling, sunlit bouquet of orange blossom, apricot, lemon, and bergamot. The citrus notes—bergamot from Calabria, known for its crisp, slightly spicy nuance, and Sicilian lemon with its bright, clean sweetness—create an immediate freshness that awakens the senses. Orange blossom brings a soft, honeyed floral facet, while apricot adds a delicate fruity warmth. Cassie, or acacia, rounds out the top with its natural honeyed nuance, adding a soft, velvety texture that contrasts beautifully with the citrus and fruitiness. The initial sweetness and subtle “bubblegum” character of the perfume is primarily due to methyl anthranilate, a naturally occurring aromatic ester found in jasmine and orange blossom. This chemical emphasizes the creamy, slightly fruity facets of the flower, creating that playful, almost gourmand nuance without artificiality.

As the fragrance evolves into its heart, it becomes richer and more complex. Sambac jasmine, sourced from India, contributes an exotic, heady opulence that is deeper and more intoxicating than the more delicate jasminum grandiflorum from Grasse. The indolic quality of jasmine introduces a soft animalic undertone, heightening the perfume’s sensuality. Ylang-ylang imparts tropical creaminess with subtle hints of banana and floral spice, while lily of the valley provides a cool, dewy green brightness, and orris root introduces a powdery, slightly nutty softness. Rose adds classic elegance and depth, and lavender infuses a gentle aromatic lift. The natural honey note melds seamlessly with these florals, offering a warm, golden sweetness. Together, these middle notes form a multi-dimensional floral bouquet, where sweetness, freshness, and soft green nuances coexist harmoniously.

The base notes provide warmth, depth, and longevity, anchoring the florals beautifully. Blond tobacco lends a delicate smokiness, while leather and civet introduce subtle animalic sophistication. Oakmoss, vetiver, and sandalwood contribute earthy, woody textures, giving the fragrance a grounded, elegant structure. Ambergris and balsam provide a resinous, slightly marine warmth, while vanilla softens the composition with creamy sweetness. Storax adds balsamic richness, and Tonkin musk creates a lingering, intimate trail. Sambac jasmine reappears here as well, weaving through the base to maintain continuity of the floral heart. The combination of natural absolutes and synthetics like methyl anthranilate enhances the longevity, projection, and clarity of the jasmine, allowing the perfume to retain its signature soft sweetness and floral elegance over time.

Experiencing Jasmin on the skin is a journey: the sparkling citrus and apricot top notes gradually give way to a lush, exotic floral heart, which finally settles into a warm, intimate, and subtly animalic base. The bubblegum-like sweetness, exotic richness, and harmonious depth exemplify Guerlain’s artistry, blending natural extracts and aroma chemicals to create a perfume that is at once timeless and sensually modern.

Bottles:

Presented in a flacon by Cristalleries de Baccarat design # 678, in the Amphore flacon (parfum) during the 1950s and in the beautiful frosted glass Lalique Bouquet de Faunes flacon (parfum) in the 1920s. Also sold in the quadrilobe flacon (parfum) in the 1940s and Goutte flacon (eau de toilette) from the 1920s-1950s.

photo by ebay

photo by rago auctions

bottle by Baccarat. photo by rago auctions

Photo by ellenaa

Fate of the Fragrance:

Guerlain’s Jasmin was first launched as early as 1835, a remarkable testament to the house’s enduring mastery of floral perfumery. Throughout its long history, the fragrance remained a favorite among women for over a century, still being sold in 1953, though the exact date of its discontinuation is unknown.

This longevity reflects the timeless appeal of its composition: a soft floral bouquet centered on jasmine, balanced with citrus, fruit, and powdery green notes that evolve into a warm, animalic, and resinous base. The perfume’s ability to charm multiple generations of wearers demonstrates Guerlain’s skill in creating fragrances that feel both classic and perpetually fresh. Jasmin’s continued presence on the market for more than a century underscores its status as a signature floral, capturing the elegance and sophistication that defined the house’s creations throughout the 19th and 20th centuries.

Even decades later, the perfume retained its distinctive character, with the delicate sweetness of sambac jasmine, the airy brightness of citrus and apricot, and the gentle warmth of vanilla, musk, and ambergris providing a layered olfactory experience that resonated with women across changing fashions and eras. Its enduring popularity illustrates the power of a well-crafted floral to evoke beauty, refinement, and quiet luxury, hallmarks of Guerlain’s perfume legacy.

Djedi 1926

Djedi by Guerlain, launched in 1926 in France and introduced to the United States in 1928, was one of Jacques Guerlain’s most enigmatic and conceptually daring creations. It arrived at a time when the world was captivated by the mysteries of ancient Egypt, a fascination ignited by the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922. The perfume’s name—“Djedi” (pronounced Jeh-dee)—was inspired by an Egyptian magician of legend, mentioned in the Westcar Papyrus, who was said to possess the power to restore life to the dead and who advised Pharaoh Khufu in the building of his pyramid. To invoke Djedi was to conjure a sense of timeless wisdom, resurrection, and the occult majesty of a civilization long vanished, yet suddenly very present in the imagination of the 1920s. Guerlain’s choice of this name reflected not only the era’s Egyptomania, but also his own gift for creating perfumes that were as much intellectual and emotional experiences as olfactory ones.

 

The word “Djedi”, ancient and resonant, evokes the dry winds over desert sands, the chill shadow inside a tomb, and the ritual austerity of sacred oils used to anoint the departed. It carries with it a whisper of immortality and magic—an echo from the Old Kingdom rendered in scent. The bottle itself, designed by Baccarat, further deepened this theme: a geometric, architectural form that mirrored the precision and gravitas of Egyptian art, with clean, sharply cut facets like the walls of a pyramid.

When Djedi was released, the world was in the throes of the Art Deco period, an age defined by modernity, elegance, and fascination with exoticism. The 1920s woman—liberated, daring, and cosmopolitan—was drawn to perfumes that expressed both power and sophistication. Against a backdrop of flapper dresses, geometric jewelry, and sleek bobbed hair, Guerlain’s Djedi would have seemed both ancient and avant-garde—a scent that bridged millennia. Women who wore it likely felt it conveyed intelligence and mystery; it was not coquettish or sweet, but commanding, cerebral, and almost ceremonial.

Critics at the time recognized Djedi as something extraordinary, though challenging. As The New Yorker wrote in 1928, it was “distinctive… although a little strong,” noting its “lemony flavor” and a “mysterious incense aroma as an apparent background.” Indeed, Djedi was not a crowd-pleaser—it was a statement of character. The perfume was a leathery chypre, dry, mineralic, and austere, built upon a structure of vetiver, oakmoss, civet, and leathery notes, brightened by citrus and aldehydes yet shadowed by incense and animalic undertones. It had both the refined composure of a Guerlain and the archeological gravitas of a lost ritual.

In the context of perfumery in the late 1920s, Djedi stood apart. While many houses produced lush florals or playful orientals—expressions of Jazz Age exuberance—Jacques Guerlain ventured into something intellectual, sculptural, and even esoteric. It was perfume as an artifact, one that seemed to belong as much in a museum as on a vanity table. Djedi thus remains one of Guerlain’s most rare and fascinating creations—a scent born from history, art, and myth, and a tribute to the eternal dialogue between the past and the modern.

The New Yorker, 1928:

“And because no one in this frivolous business can keep away from France very long, this particular tantara of trumpets announces a new Guerlain perfume, conveniently named Djedi, which might mean almost anything. Any perfume of Guerlain’s is an event to those who know, and this is as distinctive as the others, although it is a little strong for my taste, which is ultra-conservative for this line. The prevailing odor is a sort of lemony flavor, with a mysterious incense aroma as an apparent background. This is as accurately as I can describe it. Since every good perfume causes violent emotions of adoration or doubt according to the individual, I can only advise you to sniff for yourself. And well worth sniffing, since this firm does nothing banal.

Old Favorite Department: While we are on the Guerlain subject, I might as well mention that A Travers Champs, a perfume little known because it is rather musky until it dries, is still, to my mind, ideal for the taileur. And, second, nothing could make the bath a greater luxury than those huge soap bowls, scented with geranium, rose, violet, and other garden odors. Expensive at first, but lasting forever.”

American Druggist, 1929:

"Djedi perfume which is described as an odor striking a modern note both in scent and package. It too is a leader. "

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Djedi is classified as a leathery chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehyde, lily of the valley, bergamot, lemon, rose, cinnamon, spices
• Middle notes: patchouli, calamus, iris, jasmine, rose, orris, vetiver, animal notes
• Base notes: ambergris, exotic resins, oakmoss, vetiver, orris root, cedarwood, sandalwood, leather, civet, musk

Scent Profile:

Djedi unfolds like the opening of an ancient tomb — the air heavy, still, and charged with mystery — revealing a fragrance that feels both ceremonial and alive. Created by Jacques Guerlain in 1926, this leathery chypre is a composition of light and shadow: bright aldehydes and crystalline citrus against the somber gravity of leather, oakmoss, and resin. Each note feels deliberate, sculpted with the precision of a hieroglyph, echoing the perfume’s Egyptian muse.

The top notes shimmer at first breath — a metallic halo of aldehydes that crackle like sunlight striking limestone. These aldehydes lend brilliance and lift, creating a prismatic opening through which the natural elements can shine. Into this light slips lemon, its zest cold and sparkling, a vivid yellow-green that seems to slice through the incense-dark air. Guerlain’s lemon would have been sourced from Sicily, prized for its purity of limonene and citral, the two molecules that give lemon oil its electric freshness — sharper and cleaner than other citrus fruits, with a faint floral edge that ties elegantly to the blossoms that follow. The bergamot from Calabria joins it, softening the lemon’s blade with its nuanced sweetness — a balance of linalyl acetate and linalool that creates the distinctive Guerlain shimmer. Lily of the valley, a fragrance note always built from synthetics such as hydroxycitronellal, lends a silken, dew-bright greenness, like morning air before the heat of the desert rises. The bloom of Bulgarian rose, full of citronellol and geraniol, drapes this brightness in warmth, while cinnamon and other subtle spices add dryness and intrigue, the faint dust of ancient spice markets lingering on the air.

As Djedi deepens, the heart emerges — somber, earthy, and textural. Patchouli from Indonesia, dark and camphorous when fresh, has been aged to round its edges into velvet, rich in patchoulol that lends an earthy gravity. Calamus, a reed from ancient wetlands, brings a strange, bitter-spicy dryness through its natural asarone, evoking parchment, roots, and time. Iris and orris root, derived from the rhizomes of Florentine irises aged for years, provide a haunting coolness; their irones molecules exhale a silvery, suede-like softness. The jasmine from Grasse breathes warmth back into this coolness, its indole content giving a faintly human, animalic touch. Another layer of rose bridges the light of the opening with the shadowed earth below, while vetiver—Haitian, rich in vetivone—threads its smoky green tendrils through the structure. The faint hint of animal notes—a whisper of fur, of warmth, of skin—animates the perfume, as if something long dormant stirs beneath its mineral calm.

The base is where Djedi becomes eternal. Ambergris, ocean-smooth and warm, lends a salty, radiant softness, the natural ambroxide molecules harmonizing with resins—Siamese benzoin and Spanish labdanum—that add a honeyed, balsamic sheen. Oakmoss from the Balkan forests anchors the chypre structure; its evernyl and atranol molecules breathe cool forest dampness, like moss-covered stone. The interplay of vetiver and orris root continues, blending root and powder, green and pale. Then the leather — dark, tarry, tactile — rises from beneath, wrought from birch tar, civet, and musk. The civet, historically from Ethiopian sources, lends warmth and sensuality through its civetone; musk, once natural but now synthetic, provides human softness, a sense of pulse beneath the composition’s stillness. Cedarwood from Virginia adds dry, woody clarity, while sandalwood from Mysore softens the finale, its creamy santalols diffusing like sacred smoke.

In Djedi, the addition of lemon heightens the contrast — a flash of sun across the shadowed temple walls, illuminating the austerity of the leather and resins. The aldehydes and citrus together create the illusion of life entering still air; they make the earthier, animalic base breathe. Smelling Djedi is like awakening something ancient — a spirit of intellect and reverence, of timelessness bound in scent. It is Guerlain’s most enigmatic creation, a perfume not merely worn but discovered, layer by layer, as if brushing dust from the stone face of eternity.

The Bottle

When Djedi was finally released in the United States in 1928, the advertisements of the day noted that the perfume was a special presentation created to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the founding of Guerlain. The Djedi bottle is actually a modified version of the 'biscuit shaped' bottle from 1916. Presented in a flacon by Cristalleries de Baccarat design # 598, known as the ‘Pourdreur’ style bottle, designed by Georges Chevalier. It was available in the following sizes: 60ml, 125ml and 250ml.

It was also available in the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette). It was also housed in the Guerre (parfum) and the Borne (parfum) flacons during the wartime years of the 1940s. For a rare and special presentation, it was housed in the the Baccarat quadrilobe flacon (parfum) also in the 1940s.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Djedi remained part of Guerlain’s collection long after its 1926 debut, quietly enduring as one of the house’s most enigmatic and revered creations. Records show that it was still being sold as late as 1955, an impressive lifespan for such an avant-garde and intellectual fragrance. Its survival through nearly three decades speaks to its devoted following — those drawn not to sweetness or prettiness, but to depth, mystery, and the austere elegance of leather and resins. By the mid-1950s, perfumery had shifted toward lighter, more floral and aldehydic compositions, leaving Djedi standing apart as a relic of an earlier, more esoteric vision of beauty. Eventually, it was discontinued, fading from Guerlain’s active range but not from the memories of connoisseurs. Even decades after its disappearance, Djedi continued to be whispered about in perfumery circles — a legend of darkness, intellect, and restraint — one of the rare scents that seemed less like a perfume and more like an incantation from another age.

1996 Reissue:

Djedi was reformulated and relaunched in 1996 to mark its 70th anniversary, a rare resurrection of one of Guerlain’s most mysterious and intellectually complex perfumes. This revival was produced in a limited edition of just 1,000 bottles, each faithfully modeled after the original 60 ml flacon designed for the 1926 release. Available exclusively in Paris, it became an instant collector’s item, selling out in less than a week — a testament to the enduring fascination and reverence surrounding this elusive scent.

In this modern interpretation, Djedi was reclassified as a chypre-oriental, its structure refined to meet contemporary perfumery standards while preserving the soul of Jacques Guerlain’s creation. The composition opens with the austere sensuality of leather, moss, and woods, still shadowed by the deep, almost meditative resins that once defined the original. These are balanced by soft, ethereal floral notes of jasmine and rose, offering a delicate contrast — the whisper of life against the solemnity of earth and time. The reformulation carefully modernized certain animalic and mossy components, substituting restricted materials with nuanced accords that maintained the fragrance’s gravity and texture.

The result is a scent that bridges centuries — faithful to its 1920s mystique yet reborn with modern precision. It captures the same sense of ancient ritual and cerebral beauty, echoing its Egyptian inspiration, but through a slightly softened lens. The 1996 Djedi stands not only as a tribute to Guerlain’s heritage but also as proof that some fragrances, no matter how old, retain a timeless power to unsettle and captivate.

The Westcar Papyrus

The Westcar Papyrus, one of ancient Egypt’s most fascinating literary relics, offers a rare glimpse into the mystical imagination of the Middle Kingdom. Now housed in the Egyptian Museum of Berlin, this fragmentary papyrus is believed to date from around the 20th century BCE, during the 12th Dynasty, though its stories are set much earlier, in the time of Pharaoh Khufu of the Fourth Dynasty (c. 2589–2566 BCE). The papyrus, named for Henry Westcar, who acquired it in 1824 or 1825, contains five tales of magic and wonder performed by priests and magicians at the royal court. The text itself is imperfect—its handwriting uneven, its grammar corrupted—leading some scholars, such as Geoff Graham, to speculate that it may have been a student’s exercise, a copy made by a young scribe learning his craft. Yet within its worn lines lies an enduring treasure of storytelling: a cycle of miracles, wisdom, and divine prophecy.

The tales unfold as Khufu’s sons entertain their father with stories of enchantments and extraordinary feats. Prince Khafra begins, followed by Djadjaemankh, but it is Prince Hordedef who captures his father’s imagination with a story not of the past, but of a living magician—a commoner named Djed-djedi, who, he claims, possesses powers beyond comprehension. Djed-djedi, said to live at Djed-djed-Sneferu, is described as 110 years old, with a prodigious appetite—five hundred loaves of bread, a haunch of ox, and one hundred jugs of beer daily—and the uncanny ability to rejoin severed heads and tame wild lions with a mere cord dragging at his feet.

Intrigued, Khufu commands that this mysterious magician be brought before him. After a long journey, Hordedef succeeds in convincing Djed-djedi to come to the royal court, bringing with him his family and his collection of magical papyri. When he arrives, the pharaoh greets him with curiosity and skepticism, demanding proof of his power. At first, Khufu orders a prisoner to be sacrificed for demonstration, but Djed-djedi refuses, declaring that human life cannot be taken for magic. Instead, he performs his wonder upon a goose—its head severed and placed apart from its body. With a series of ancient incantations, the magician calls life back into the bird; the head and body reunite, and the goose rises, honking. He repeats the feat with another bird, and even with an ox, whose head he reattaches before the astonished court. To complete his display, he summons a lion, which follows him obediently, its leash trailing humbly along the ground.

These feats earn Djed-djedi not only the king’s admiration but also his respect. When Khufu asks about the number of sacred chambers in the Temple of Thoth, Djed-djedi humbly replies that he does not know the number—but he knows where the knowledge resides: in a chest of scrolls made of flint, kept in a secret room called the “archive” at Heliopolis. Yet, he warns, it cannot be retrieved by Khufu himself, but only by the eldest of three children soon to be born to Raddjedet, wife of a priest of Ra. These triplets, Djed-djedi prophesies, will one day rule Egypt, establishing a new royal line. Troubled by the thought of his dynasty’s end, Khufu learns from the magician that his own son and grandson will rule before the prophecy comes to pass. To comfort the pharaoh further, Djed-djedi offers to raise the canal waters by four cubits, ensuring Khufu’s journey to the temple of Ra can proceed unhindered.

In the end, Djed-djedi remains with Prince Hordedef, awaiting the fulfillment of destiny. Though there is no archaeological or historical record confirming his existence, Djed-djedi—or Djedi, as he is often called—became a symbol of the magician-philosopher: wise, powerful, and benevolent. His story bridges the divine and human, magic and morality, knowledge and restraint.

The tale also carries remarkable cultural significance. It may represent the earliest known account of the “sawing illusion”, where a being is cut apart and restored—an act that would echo across millennia in both myth and stage magic. For his service, Djed-djedi is richly rewarded: invited to live within the royal palace, granted a diet of ox meat, a thousand loaves of bread, a hundred jugs of beer, and a hundred bunches of onions daily, and promised an honored tomb among his kin.

The Westcar Papyrus is thus much more than an ancient story—it is a literary window into Egyptian values, blending faith, power, and the mystical arts. Through its fragmented lines, we glimpse a world where magic was not illusion but divine truth, where wisdom and restraint were greater powers than conquest, and where the line between life and death could be crossed with a whispered spell.

Dawamesk c1942

Dawamesk by Guerlain, originally launched as Kriss in 1942 and renamed in 1945, occupies a fascinating niche in the house’s history, bridging the worlds of olfactory artistry and exotic storytelling. The name “Dawamesk” derives from a Middle Eastern confection, a rich, pastry-like green paste sometimes referred to as a cannabis-infused jam. Traditionally, it combines ingredients such as hashish, butter or oil, orange juice, sugar, honey, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, rose essence, pine kernels, pistachios, almonds, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, and musk; in some versions, Cantharides (Spanish fly) is included as an aphrodisiac. The word Dawamesk is Arabic in origin, pronounced approximately as "da-wa-mesk." Evoking images of opulent Middle Eastern kitchens, sun-drenched spices, and indulgent sweets, the term conjures a sense of sensuality, warmth, and exotic allure—a perfect match for a fragrance intended to captivate the senses.

The perfume emerged during the 1940s, a turbulent period marked by the Second World War and its aftermath. Despite the global upheaval, perfumery continued to evolve, with exotic and oriental fragrances appealing to consumers eager for escapism, fantasy, and sophistication. The choice of the name Dawamesk reflects this fascination with the “Orient,” connecting European luxury fragrance culture to a faraway world of spice markets, palaces, and sensual delicacies. For women of the time, the name alone suggested mystery, opulence, and a subtle eroticism, framing the fragrance as not only a scent but an experience of indulgence and elegance.

Olfactorily, Dawamesk is classified as an oriental fougère for women, blending warm, resinous, and aromatic notes into a rich, complex composition. The perfume evokes the textures of its namesake: the sweetness of sugared almonds and vanilla, the powdery warmth of cinnamon and clove, and the subtle floral lift of rose. Musk and balsamic resins provide a lingering sensuality, reminiscent of the aphrodisiac qualities historically attributed to the pastry. In the context of contemporary perfumes, Dawamesk was both aligned with the oriental trend that had captivated European perfumery since the early 20th century, yet distinguished itself through its layered, gourmand-like richness and its daring evocation of a Middle Eastern culinary tradition, making it simultaneously familiar and exotic, luxurious and imaginative.

Guerlain’s creation allowed women to experience a sense of refinement and exotic allure, embodying a luxurious, worldly sophistication that transcended its era. The fragrance’s narrative, exotic name, and richly textured composition positioned it as a bold, opulent statement, a perfume that invited the wearer to embrace both elegance and mystery, making Dawamesk an enduring testament to the house’s inventive spirit.

 

 

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Classified as an oriental fougère for women, Dawamesk blends warm, resinous, and aromatic notes to create a sophisticated and opulent composition evocative of its Middle Eastern namesake.

• Top notes:  bergamot, orange, orange blossom, violet, lavender, heliotrope
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, sage, pistachio, nutmeg, clove, cinnamon, orris
• Base notes: almond, tobacco, ambergris, sandalwood, vanilla, benzoin, tonka bean, oakmoss, musk, leather and castoreum

 

Scent Profile:

Dawamesk by Guerlain, an oriental fougère for women, opens with an exquisite interplay of citrus and floral top notes, immediately inviting the senses into a luminous, sun-drenched world. The bergamot—likely sourced from Calabria, Italy—is bright, sparkling, and slightly green, with high levels of limonene giving it a crisp, radiant edge. It blends seamlessly with sweet orange, its cheerful juiciness warmed by subtle bitter undertones, and the ethereal orange blossom, with its indolic floralcy that hints at honeyed creaminess. Violet adds a soft, powdery lift, while lavender—perhaps from the high-altitude fields of Provence, prized for its aromatic purity—lends an herbaceous, aromatic freshness. Heliotrope rounds out the top with its almond-like, vanillic warmth, foreshadowing the gourmand sophistication of the heart and base.

At the heart, the fragrance blossoms into a rich floral bouquet layered with warm, exotic spices. Jasmine, sourced from Egypt or India, exudes a creamy, narcotic floralcy high in benzyl acetate and indoles, lending an opulent, sensual richness. Rose unfolds with a slightly animalic edge from rose otto, balancing the jasmine’s softness. Ylang ylang from Madagascar brings a heavy, creamy, tropical floral facet, while the delicate lily of the valley lends green, dewy freshness. The composition deepens with aromatic and spicy elements: sage adds a camphorous herbal brightness, pistachio introduces a soft, nutty gourmand nuance, and nutmeg, clove, and cinnamon contribute a warm, slightly resinous spiciness. The inclusion of orris root—the buttery, violet-like essence derived from Italian orris rhizomes—enhances the powdery elegance of the bouquet.

The base of Dawamesk is an intoxicating symphony of gourmand, resinous, and animalic richness. Almond adds a soft, edible sweetness, perfectly echoing the pistachio and heliotrope. Tobacco imbues the scent with a warm, slightly smoky nuance, complementing the ambergris, which offers a sensual, marine-animalic warmth that lifts the composition without heaviness. Sandalwood from Mysore, prized for its creamy, milky, and enduring aroma due to high alpha-santalol content, gives the fragrance a soft woody depth. Vanilla, tonka bean, and benzoin enrich the perfume with balsamic sweetness and vanillic warmth, while oakmoss provides a subtle, earthy underpinning. Musk, leather, and castoreum round out the base with a sophisticated animalic resonance, evoking both elegance and sensuality.

Every note in Dawamesk is carefully balanced, creating a layered, complex perfume that is simultaneously warm, exotic, gourmand, and sensual. The interplay of citrus, opulent florals, delicate spices, and rich gourmand-animalic bases results in a fragrance that is evocative of luxurious Middle Eastern pastries and ancient opulent spice markets. Synthetic elements subtly enhance the natural ingredients, stabilizing the volatile florals, amplifying vanillic notes, and giving lasting projection to the animalic and resinous base, ensuring the perfume carries a sophisticated, enduring sillage from first bloom to the final whisper of musk.

This composition is both a sensory journey and an olfactory narrative, inviting the wearer to experience opulence, warmth, and indulgent sensuality in a single, timeless signature.

Bottles:

Dawamesk was presented in several exquisite flacons, each reflecting the elegance and refinement of Guerlain’s design ethos. The Quadrilobe bottle—parfum concentration—offered a stately, geometric silhouette, its stopper's four-lobed form evoking symmetry and precision, a subtle nod to architectural elegance. The bowtie bottle, crafted by Cristalleries de Baccarat, was a jewel-like presentation, cobalt or clear crystal shaped into the form of a bow, known as the “Noeud Papillon.” The curved lines of the bow and its polished crystal surface played with light, creating a visual richness that mirrored the perfume’s luxurious composition, making the bottle itself feel like an objet d’art.

From 1955 onward, Dawamesk was also offered in the Amphore flacon (parfum), a design inspired by ancient Greco-Roman urns. Its elongated, graceful shape evoked classical refinement and sophistication, perfectly suited to the opulent and exotic character of the fragrance. For those seeking a lighter, more everyday version, the perfume was available in the Goutte flacon as an eau de toilette, its droplet-like shape suggesting softness and fluidity, a visual metaphor for the airy, aromatic top notes that first greet the senses.

Across all presentations, the bottles and flacons reinforced the narrative of luxury, artistry, and timeless elegance. Each design enhanced the experience of Dawamesk—not merely a fragrance, but a total sensory statement combining visual beauty, tactile pleasure, and olfactory sophistication.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Dawamesk, despite its enduring popularity, was eventually discontinued, though the exact date remains unknown. Historical records confirm that the fragrance continued to be sold as late as 1955, attesting to its lasting appeal over more than a decade of production. Its sustained presence on the market during this period reflects both the timeless quality of Guerlain’s compositions and the perfume’s resonance with audiences who appreciated its rich, oriental fougère character. Even after its discontinuation, Dawamesk remains celebrated among collectors and connoisseurs for its intricate, luxurious scent and the exquisite flacons in which it was presented, preserving its legacy as one of Guerlain’s most opulent and evocative creations.