Kadine c1911

 Kadine by Guerlain was launched in 1911, a perfume steeped in both personal history and cultural imagination. Gabriel Guerlain created it in tribute to Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma (1870–1899), Princess consort of Bulgaria, who was known for her devotion to the art of fragrance. From the gardens she tended, Marie Louise distilled what Gabriel Guerlain himself remarked no Parisian perfumer could obtain in such purity: the true essence of Bulgarian roses, unadulterated and intoxicating. Her family heritage also linked her to Parma violets, cultivated to capture their delicate, powdery sweetness in near-perfect form. But above all, she adored iris. While perfumers of the day used orris powder from its roots, she longed for something more elusive—a liquid iris note with depth and nuance, enriched with subtle tonalities and even a hint of citrus dissonance. Guerlain, whom she considered a friend, undertook the challenge and composed Kadine, a fragrance that embodied her vision of beauty and refinement.

The name “Kadine” draws its inspiration from the Ottoman Empire. In Turkish, Kadın (pronounced kah-DEEN) signifies a woman, but in the context of the Sultan’s court, a Kadine was more than that—she was a favorite, a consort elevated within the harem to the rank of wife. The name thus carried connotations of allure, privilege, and mystery. Jacques Guerlain, during a visit to the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, is said to have been struck by the portrait of a Kadine—her beauty, presence, and rumored sensitivity to scent left a deep impression. Naming the perfume Kadine evoked not only exoticism and opulence but also the power of fragrance to elevate and distinguish. To women in Paris of 1911, the word would have suggested an intoxicating blend of romance, Eastern luxury, and feminine power.

The year 1911 fell within the Belle Époque, a period in France defined by prosperity, innovation, and flourishing culture. Fashion, shaped by designers such as Paul Poiret, was moving away from the rigid corseted silhouettes of the 19th century toward freer, more fluid forms inspired by Orientalism. The exoticism of the East was a dominant motif—rich fabrics, jewel-toned colors, and flowing drapery set the stage for perfumes that echoed this fascination with the mysterious and the foreign. Women who wore Kadine would have felt they were stepping into this world of modern elegance tinged with Oriental fantasy, asserting both refinement and individuality.

Interpreted in scent, the word Kadine translates into a powdery, aromatic floral fragrance, rich in violets and iris. The Parma violet note lent the perfume its tender, velvety sweetness—cool, powdery, and romantic—while the Florentine orris root provided a creamy, earthy depth, giving body and persistence to the composition. Together, they created an accord that was both sophisticated and unmistakably feminine. The fragrance was designed not as a fleeting floral but as a textured, layered creation, with “fugitive half-tones” and subtle contrasts—qualities that mirrored the complexity of the name itself.

In the context of perfumery in the early 20th century, Kadine was at once of its time and distinct. Powdery florals were very much in vogue—violet especially, with iconic scents such as Coty’s L’Origan (1905) and Jacinthe or Muguet-based compositions reflecting this trend. Yet Kadine distinguished itself by elevating the violet with the noble iris, weaving in an aromatic sophistication that was less common. Guerlain’s choice to emphasize iris also foreshadowed a theme that would become central to the house’s identity, seen later in Après l’Ondée and L’Heure Bleue. Thus, while it fit seamlessly into the fashions of its day, Kadine carried the unique Guerlain signature that ensured it would stand apart.

  

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Kadine by Guerlain is classified as a powdery aromatic floral fragrance for women. It was heavy on the iris note, obtained by Florentine orris roots.

• Top notes: anise, Calabrian bergamot, Parma violet, aromatic notes, Portugal orange
• Heart notes: Florentine iris, Grasse jasmine, Bulgarian rose, Indian carnation, leather, Florentine orris, Parma violet leaf
• Base notes: Tonkin musk, almond, Mexican vanilla

Evening Star, 1913:

"Kadine is an iris, but so fragrant and lasting, so arranged and dressed up, that it seems a queen of odors."

A 1914 edition of Pearson's Magazine has this to say about the creation of Kadine.

"Perfumes were a hobby with her. From her gardens, she distilled what Gabriel Guerlain says no Paris perfumer is able to buy unadulterated - the true concentrated essence of Bulgarian roses. Parma violets, the invention of her family, yielded her almost their exact fragrance. Above all, she loved the iris, the flag or fleur de luce of the old French Kings. Orris powder from the root is known to all; but no perfumer had succeeded in producing what the delicate fancy of Marie Louise hit on - a concentrated liquid iris that was not insipid, a central iris decorated with fugitive half-tones and a tantalizing suspicion of orange for dissonance. Gabriel Guerlain, that grand old artiste whom she called her friend, made it up for her under the name "Kadine", which is Turkish or Bulgarian for "queen" and "woman"; and such it was finally destined to become a precious modern scent. And a glory of the rue de la Paix. Who, today, paying $5 for seven grammes of it, will dream of what it typified in the reveries of the blonde daughter of the Bourbon-Parmas - the destiny of her beloved Ferdinand: the ancient fleur de lis, royal emblem of their common ancestry, adorned with the haunting half tones of every modern devotion to the people!"

Scent Profile:

Kadine opens with a curious and elegant brightness, its first impression both aromatic and sweetly floral. The faintly licorice-like anise rises first, airy and herbaceous, a cooling breath that clears the senses and sharpens anticipation. Just beneath, the citrus of Calabrian bergamot unfurls—bright, slightly bitter, but with a floral undertone unique to the orchards of southern Italy. Calabrian bergamot was, and still is, considered the finest in the world, prized for its complexity and its balance of green, floral, and citrus facets, unlike the harsher bergamots of other regions. Woven into this sparkling freshness is the powdery sweetness of Parma violets. Cultivated by the Bourbon-Parma family, these blossoms carried not only delicate fragrance but also aristocratic heritage; their aroma is tender, almost crystalline, evoking pressed petals and sugared confections.

A burst of Portugal orange—a term used in 19th-century perfumery for sweet Seville orange—adds juiciness and sunlit warmth, softening the sharper edges of the bergamot. Together, these top notes create an opening that is airy, polished, and slightly nostalgic: cool herbs and citrus enlivened by tender powdery violets.

As the fragrance deepens, the heart becomes opulent, floral, and textured. The unmistakable signature of Kadine lies in its Florentine iris, derived from orris roots aged and powdered for years before distillation. Only the roots from Tuscany yielded such a creamy, buttery richness, blending violet-like sweetness with a faintly woody, carroty earthiness. Unlike the dry, powdery orris often found in lesser perfumes, Florentine iris lent Kadine a silken texture, at once powdery and radiant, with soft “half-tones” that gave it an almost musical quality.

The floral chorus expands with jasmine from Grasse, warm and narcotic, carrying honeyed, indolic richness that makes the iris seem more alive, more human. Bulgarian rose, distilled from the legendary Valley of Roses, adds a liquid velvet depth: lush, slightly spicy, with nuances of honey and clove that distinguish it from lighter Turkish roses. From India comes carnation, fiery and clove-like, lending spiced warmth to the cool elegance of iris and violet. These florals do not sit separately but weave together, creating a luxurious harmony that is softened yet emboldened by a faint leather accord—a fashionable touch in early 20th-century perfumery, suggestive of refinement, books, and travel trunks.

The violet leaf from Parma brings a sharper green note, crisp and metallic, balancing the powdery sweetness of the flowers with a modern freshness. This leafy greenness, often achieved through natural isolates such as ionones (discovered in the late 19th century), heightened the violet effect. Ionones gave violets persistence and radiance beyond what natural petals could yield, allowing the scent to shimmer with facets of raspberry, wood, and powder. Here, the synthetic element did not overshadow the natural violet but amplified it, giving Kadine both body and longevity.

The base is sumptuous, warm, and quietly sensual. Tonkin musk, one of the most precious animalic materials of its day, imparts depth and radiance, its powdery, slightly leathery warmth fusing the perfume with the wearer’s skin. Almond lends its sweet, marzipan-like note, soft and comforting, an echo of the powdery iris. Finally, Mexican vanilla rounds out the composition with golden warmth: rich, creamy, and faintly spicy. Compared with Tahitian or Bourbon vanilla, Mexican vanilla was considered deeper, darker, and more resinous, its complexity adding gravity to the floral bouquet.

The result is a fragrance that feels simultaneously aristocratic and exotic. The powdery iris and Parma violet lend delicacy and refinement; the Bulgarian rose and Grasse jasmine provide richness; the carnation and leather introduce fire and strength; while musk and vanilla offer intimacy and sensuality. It is a perfume that speaks of cultivated gardens and Oriental palaces, of powdered gloves and silk gowns, of a woman who is both elegant and commanding. Kadine translates its name into scent by embodying allure, privilege, and mystery: a favorite elevated above all others.

Bottles:

Kadine was originally launched in 1911 in the Flacon Carré, a square, clear bottle that served as a standard presentation for Guerlain perfumes of the time, accompanied by the bottle with the elegant Quadrilobe stopper, which would become one of the house’s enduring signatures. As the fragrance’s popularity continued, it was offered in a range of bottles across the decades. In 1923, Kadine appeared in the Goutte flacon for the eau de toilette, a graceful teardrop shape that emphasized lightness and everyday wear. From 1926 to 1939, it was also housed in the Petit Beurre, nicknamed the “Butter Pat” for its flat, rounded form reminiscent of a small serving of butter—a design cherished by collectors for its charm and simplicity. From c1935-1943, it was housed in the Flacon Lanterne Bleue for parfum.  During the years of World War II, Kadine was presented in the Flacon de Guerre (1938–1945), a practical, utilitarian design necessitated by shortages of luxury materials. Finally, in 1955, Guerlain introduced Kadine in the iconic Amphore flacon, a graceful, elongated bottle with flowing curves that reflected the elegance of mid-century design and gave the fragrance a timeless new identity.

Photo from the vintage perfume vault

Fate of the Fragrance:

Kadine was eventually discontinued, though the exact date remains uncertain; records confirm that it was still available for purchase as late as 1956. Today, original bottles of Kadine are regarded as exceptionally rare, surviving examples often surfacing only in private collections or at specialized auctions. When they do appear on the market, they command extraordinarily high prices, a reflection not only of their scarcity but also of the fragrance’s historical significance within the Guerlain legacy. Collectors prize these bottles as much for their elegant presentations as for the enduring aura of mystery and refinement the perfume represents.

2005 Reissue:

In 2005, Kadine was reformulated and reintroduced by Jean-Paul Guerlain, breathing new life into one of the house’s early 20th-century creations. This modern edition was re-packaged with updated presentation, yet it retained the essence of the original concept. Classified as a powdery aromatic floral fragrance for women, the 2005 Kadine sought to capture the elegance and refinement of its 1911 predecessor while aligning with contemporary tastes. The reformulation paid homage to the powdery iris and violet heart that defined the original, allowing a new generation of perfume lovers to experience the timeless sophistication of Kadine through a refreshed lens.

• Top notes: anise, bergamot, violet, aromatic notes 
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, carnation, leather, orris, violet leaf 
• Base notes: musk, almond, vanilla

Scent Profile:

When smelling the 2005 reformulation of Kadine, the first impression is strikingly luminous yet intriguingly spiced. The top opens with the cool, liquorice-like sharpness of anise, its herbal sweetness immediately creating an air of mystery. This mingles with the zesty freshness of bergamot, most often sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, whose fruit is prized above all others for its balance of bright citrus sparkle and delicate floral undertones—never too acidic, never too bitter. The pairing of bergamot with violet creates a soft halo effect: violet’s candied, powdery sweetness has both nostalgic charm and an elegant restraint, while the violet leaf, with its green, ionone-rich facet, adds a crushed-leaf freshness that keeps the floral note from veering into confection. The “aromatic notes” woven into the top are subtle—herbal and almost Mediterranean in character—bringing to mind thyme, rosemary, or clary sage, airy counterpoints that temper the sweetness with a crisp botanical freshness. Here, synthetics like ionones are essential, deepening the violet’s velvety character while simultaneously enhancing its petal-like delicacy, lending body where nature alone might fade too quickly.

The heart unfolds with a refined floral interplay. Jasmine, likely from Grasse or possibly India, radiates its narcotic richness, lush yet luminous, its indoles softened to give a silken glow. Rose provides the balance—a Bulgarian or Turkish rose note, deep and slightly honeyed, marrying beautifully with jasmine in a classic floral accord. Carnation enters with a spicy, clove-like accent, a touch of warmth that lifts the florals and keeps them from becoming too docile. This spiciness flows seamlessly into the surprising accent of leather, which brings a tactile, animalic richness that feels daring for a feminine perfume of this character. At the heart of it all lies orris, distilled from the dried rhizomes of Florentine iris. Orris is one of perfumery’s costliest materials, treasured for its buttery, powdery, violet-like elegance. Its tenacity and complex texture provide the very soul of Kadine, giving it a powdery sophistication unmatched by other flowers. Violet leaf, again, plays its role here—green and dewy, its ionone character enhancing the orris and violet interplay, grounding them with a touch of realism, as if one were holding a freshly picked bouquet still attached to its leaves.

The base settles into warmth and sensuality. Musk lends its velvety, skin-like softness, rounding the fragrance into a lingering caress. In earlier eras this note may have been evoked by natural Tonkin musk, but in modern formulations it is expressed through sophisticated white musks, their crystalline smoothness both clean and diffusive, designed to amplify the floral heart rather than overpower it. Almond adds a bittersweet, marzipan-like gourmand touch, rich and comforting, while vanilla—likely sourced from Mexico or Madagascar—brings both warmth and sensual sweetness. Mexican vanilla is particularly prized for its deep, creamy, almost smoky undertones, lending a richer base than the brighter, fresher qualities of Madagascar vanilla. This triad—musk, almond, and vanilla—creates a velvety cushion for the powdery iris and violet, softening the spice and leather notes into a dreamy haze.

Together, the 2005 Kadine feels like a fragrance that honors its powdery, floral roots while weaving in subtle gourmand and leather nuances. The natural beauty of iris, violet, rose, and jasmine is amplified by carefully chosen synthetics such as ionones and musks, which extend and refine their natural qualities, making them more diffusive and long-lasting. The result is an elegant, powdery aromatic floral, rich with memory and yet modern in its clarity—a scent that feels both tenderly nostalgic and unexpectedly bold.

2021 Reissue:

In 2021, Kadine was once again revived, this time reformulated by Guerlain’s in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser. Presented as a floral fragrance designed for both women and men, this exclusive edition reimagined the historic composition for the modern era while maintaining its heritage of refinement. Released in a precious 30 ml parfum concentration, Kadine (2021) was produced as a strictly limited edition of only 935 pieces worldwide, underscoring its rarity and collectable appeal. With a retail price of 690 Euros, the fragrance was positioned as a true luxury item, celebrating both Guerlain’s history and its continued ability to transform archival creations into contemporary masterpieces.

• Top notes: bergamot and green notes 
• Middle notes: iris, jasmine and rose 
• Base notes: vanilla and leather
  

Scent Profile:

The opening of Kadine greets you with a luminous burst of bergamot, its zest bright and sparkling, almost like sunlight dancing on morning dew. Sourced from Calabria, Italy—the cradle of the finest bergamot—the fruit carries a subtle bittersweet nuance that distinguishes it from other citrus varieties. Here, its freshness is at once invigorating and refined, a slightly green tartness underscored by delicate floral undertones. Intertwined with the bergamot are green notes, a verdant tapestry that evokes the scent of freshly cut grass, tender leaves, and the crisp scent of spring air. These green nuances lend the top accord a sense of natural immediacy, grounding the citrus brightness in an organic, almost dewy reality. In a subtle but vital way, aroma chemicals like cis-3-hexenol may be employed to heighten this verdant crispness, emphasizing the leafiness without overwhelming the senses.

As the heart unfolds, a soft, powdery floral bouquet emerges. Iris rises with its unique, velvety elegance, a root-based floral that carries both a buttery, slightly woody aroma and a delicate, ethereal powderiness. Iris from Florence, Italy, renowned for its finely balanced nuance, imparts a creamy softness that melds seamlessly with the surrounding florals. Nestled alongside it, jasmine blossoms in a sensual, luminous radiance. This jasmine, likely from Grasse, France—the historic epicenter of perfumery—boasts an unparalleled balance of indolic richness and bright floral clarity. Its aroma is creamy yet transparent, filling the air with a gentle intoxicating warmth. Rose adds a complementary layer, its petals seemingly plucked at the height of their bloom. If sourced from Bulgaria or Turkey, the rose carries a deep, rich, almost wine-like complexity, while subtle synthetic enhancers such as phenyl ethyl alcohol may intensify the natural freshness and lift the floral brightness, harmonizing the heart notes for a modern, enduring floral signature.

The overall effect is a floral accord that is at once tender and radiant, powdery yet lively, designed for both women and men. Each ingredient is carefully chosen not only for its inherent olfactory qualities but for the way it interacts with its companions: bergamot and green notes spark a crisp introduction, iris lends a luxurious powderiness, jasmine evokes luminous sensuality, and rose grounds the fragrance in timeless floral elegance. The interplay between the natural and the synthetic ensures that Kadine 2021 retains clarity, longevity, and a subtle modern twist, while remaining respectful of classical floral craftsmanship.

Jasmiralda c1912

In 1912, Guerlain introduced Jasmiralda, a perfume created by Jacques Guerlain and later launched in the United States in 1917. The name itself is a poetic invention: “Jasmiralda” is a portmanteau of “jasmine” and “Esmeralda,” the heroine of Victor Hugo’s 1831 novel Notre-Dame de Paris (The Hunchback of Notre-Dame). Pronounced as "jass-mee-RAHL-dah", the name suggests both the luminous beauty of jasmine blossoms and the exotic allure of Hugo’s gypsy dancer.

Victor Hugo’s Notre-Dame de Paris is a story of love, desire, and tragedy set against the grandeur of medieval Paris. Esmeralda, the central female figure, is a free-spirited dancer whose beauty and innocence captivate all who encounter her—most notably Quasimodo, the bell-ringer of Notre Dame, and the priest Claude Frollo. The novel’s dramatic interplay of purity, sensuality, and doomed passion makes Esmeralda an enduring symbol of untamed femininity and fatal charm. Naming a fragrance Jasmiralda aligned Guerlain with this literary mystique, evoking images of romance, beauty, and exotic enchantment.

The word Jasmiralda itself evokes vivid imagery: a cascade of white jasmine blossoms glowing in moonlight, infused with an emerald-green vibrancy that hints at passion and intrigue. It was said to be Jacques Guerlain's favorite flower. It carries both softness and intensity, conjuring emotions of femininity, allure, and an almost otherworldly radiance. As a name, it suggested not only the scent of jasmine but also the idea of a woman who was captivating, mysterious, and untouchable.

The perfume’s debut in 1912 placed it at the twilight of the Belle Époque, a period characterized by artistic flourishing, opulent fashions, and cultural optimism before the devastation of World War I. Women’s fashion was shifting from the structured silhouettes of the late 19th century to the freer, more fluid lines of Paul Poiret and Mariano Fortuny. Flowing gowns, oriental-inspired textiles, and an embrace of exoticism were at the forefront of style. In perfumery, florals dominated—violet, rose, lilac, and, increasingly, jasmine were popular, often presented with soft, powdery accords that mirrored the elegance of the era.

To women of the time, Jasmiralda would have embodied both modernity and romantic escapism. The Belle Époque fascination with the exotic and the literary made the name instantly evocative, transporting wearers into Hugo’s world of passion and beauty. The fragrance’s dominant jasmine note would have been interpreted as lush, feminine, and sensual, yet softened into a refined floral suitable for daily wear. In scent terms, Jasmiralda was jasmine transformed into character: luminous and innocent at first breath, yet possessing a depth that hinted at seduction and tragedy.

In the context of other perfumes on the market, Jasmiralda was not radically unusual, as soft florals—especially jasmine-forward compositions—were already in vogue. Yet Jacques Guerlain’s interpretation carried the refinement and artistic vision for which the house was already becoming renowned. By anchoring the fragrance in a name that blended natural beauty (jasmine) with literary romance (Esmeralda), Guerlain distinguished it from more generic floral perfumes. It was both of its time and slightly ahead of it, laying the groundwork for Guerlain’s later explorations of sensual florals in the 1920s and beyond.

    

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Jasmiralda by Guerlain is classified as a soft floral perfume for women with a dominant jasmine note.

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Tunisian neroli, Portugal sweet orange, linalool, limonene, Egyptian jasmine 
• Middle notes: Grasse jasmine sambac, indole, benzyl acetate, methyl anthranilate, cis-jasmone, rose, De Laire's Bouvardia base, Tuscan violet 
• Base notes: ambergris, Tyrolean oakmoss, Mexican vanilla, Venezuelan tonka bean, Haitian vetiver, Tonkin deer musk, Abyssinian civet, Siam benzoin

Recently, I was fortunate enough to obtain a sample of Guerlain’s Jasmiralda from my good friend Alexandra Star, a dedicated collector who curates an impressive array of rare antique Guerlain treasures in her Etsy shop, Parfums de Paris. Alexandra’s shop is a haven for perfume enthusiasts who appreciate the artistry and history behind these elusive creations. If you’re curious to experience the sweet, bubblegum-like deliciousness of Jasmiralda for yourself—or simply wish to browse through a selection of remarkable vintage finds—I highly recommend taking a stroll through her offerings. Each piece carries with it not only fragrance but also a touch of Guerlain’s storied past.

Scent Profile:

When first inhaling Jasmiralda by Guerlain, the fragrance greets you with an airy sparkle, shimmering with citrus and white flowers. Calabrian bergamot, prized for its radiant balance of tartness and floral nuance, unfurls with a green-tinged brightness, while Portugal’s sweet orange layers in juicy, sun-soaked sweetness. Tunisian neroli, distilled from bitter orange blossoms, lends honeyed softness tinged with a slight green sharpness, its quality distinguished by the country’s warm Mediterranean climate that produces flowers rich in both freshness and depth. Supporting these naturals are linalool and limonene, aroma molecules abundant in citrus peels. Linalool imparts a smooth floral transparency that cushions the sharper citrus facets, while limonene amplifies the zesty sparkle. Even at this stage, Egyptian jasmine begins to glow through—lush, creamy, and faintly indolic, hinting at the opulence to come.

The heart is where Jasmiralda reveals its most memorable quality: a bubblegum-like sweetness born of jasmine’s natural chemistry. Grasse jasmine sambac, harvested in Provence’s legendary fields, is the star—lush and narcotic, with fruity facets that lean toward apricot and banana. Within jasmine’s molecular makeup lie benzyl acetate and methyl anthranilate—two compounds central to the “candy” impression. Benzyl acetate brings a juicy, grape-like brightness, while methyl anthranilate is famously reminiscent of Concord grapes and artificial grape candies, lending the composition its playful, bubblegum sparkle. Balancing this sweetness is cis-jasmone, which contributes a slightly bitter, green-tea nuance, keeping the fragrance from becoming cloying. Indole, another natural constituent of jasmine, adds a sensual, almost animalic undertone, evoking blossoms in full bloom under the sun. Alongside jasmine, rose lends velvety softness, while Tuscan violet, with its ionone-rich powdery sweetness, enhances the candied floral tones.

Perhaps most fascinating in this heart is De Laire’s Bouvardia base, one of the legendary proprietary accords created by the French house De Laire in the late 19th century. Bouvardia flowers themselves are rarely used in perfumery, so De Laire’s base reimagines their scent: a creamy, warm floral accord of rose, jasmine, orange blossom and violet ionones with facets of spice, fruit, and soft woods. This base brought consistency, richness, and longevity to perfumes, and in Jasmiralda it acts as a bridge—deepening the jasmine while cushioning it with a velvety sweetness that amplifies the “confectionary” quality of the perfume.

As the fragrance settles, the base provides both grounding and mystery. Ambergris, historically valued for its marine, salty warmth, lends radiance and diffusion, making the florals glow from within. Tyrolean oakmoss, sourced from alpine forests, contributes an earthy, slightly leathery mossiness that contrasts beautifully with the candied heart. Mexican vanilla infuses a rich gourmand depth, creamy and resinous, while Venezuelan tonka bean provides coumarin, a molecule with almond-hay sweetness that ties back to jasmine’s bubblegum-like aura. Haitian vetiver adds a smoky-grassy thread, cutting through the gourmand richness with elegance. Then come the animalics: Tonkin deer musk (now replaced by ethical recreations) gives warmth and sensuality, while Abyssinian civet offers a slightly leathery, carnal purr. Finally, Siam benzoin, with its balsamic, caramel-vanilla sweetness, rounds the perfume in a resinous glow, leaving behind a trail that is both playful and profoundly sensual.

The bubblegum facet of Jasmiralda emerges from this unique interplay: jasmine’s natural esters (benzyl acetate and methyl anthranilate) mingling with the fruity sweetness of orange, the powdery lift of violet ionones, and the creamy softness of the Bouvardia base. The effect is both unexpected and enchanting—a floral that behaves like candy, yet anchored in the elegance and complexity of Guerlain’s golden age of perfumery. It is jasmine transformed into something whimsical and daring, at once innocent and carnal, lighthearted yet steeped in luxury.

 

Bottles:

Jasmiralda was presented in the elegant Flacon Bouchon Fleurs (Floral Stopper Bottle), used between 1914 and 1950, a design that perfectly captured the romantic spirit of its inspiration. The stopper, adorned with delicate floral motifs, echoed the lush bouquet within, while the graceful proportions of the glass lent a timeless refinement. Surviving examples appear in at least two different sizes, offering collectors a glimpse into Guerlain’s dedication to artistry in presentation. Later, beginning in 1923, the eau de toilette version was offered in the streamlined Goutte flacon, whose teardrop silhouette reflected the house’s move toward modern elegance while still preserving the sense of delicacy and sophistication that defined Guerlain’s early 20th-century creations.

 

Fragrance Composition:

Jasmiralda was eventually discontinued, though the exact date remains uncertain. Archival evidence confirms that it was still available as late as 1941, suggesting that the fragrance enjoyed a relatively long presence within Guerlain’s catalog. Its disappearance likely reflected the shifting tastes of the mid-20th century, when heavier, musky florals gave way to newer styles and modern compositions, yet Jasmiralda’s legacy endures as one of Guerlain’s most romantic and distinctive early creations.

Guerlarose c1930

Guerlarose, launched in 1930, is a name that fuses the Guerlain legacy with the timeless beauty of the rose. The word itself is French—pronounced simply as "Gair-la-rose"—and translates quite literally to “Guerlain Rose.” It reads like both a declaration and a signature, as if Guerlain were claiming its own interpretation of the queen of flowers. The name evokes images of freshly cut roses opening their velvet petals at dawn, dewy with the first light, but also carries the weight of refinement, heritage, and a distinctly Parisian elegance.

The year 1930 situates the fragrance at the dawn of the Art Deco period, a time of bold lines, glamour, and modernism. The exuberance of the Roaring Twenties had been tempered by the economic hardships of the Great Depression, but in Paris, fashion and luxury still thrived. Women embraced more streamlined silhouettes, shorter hemlines, and a liberated approach to beauty. Perfumery, too, was shifting—florals were becoming more daring, often paired with aldehydes, exotic woods, or sensual musks. Against this backdrop, Guerlarose presented a reassuringly classic yet modern floral: the eternal rose rendered through the Guerlinade’s soft, vanillic warmth.

For women of the period, a perfume called Guerlarose would have resonated on multiple levels. On one hand, the rose had long been associated with romance, femininity, and softness—a comfort in uncertain times. On the other, Guerlain’s confident branding and the perfume’s sophistication positioned it as more than just a pretty floral; it was a statement of refinement, a way of embodying the Parisian chic that women everywhere aspired to. The name itself suggested both intimacy and prestige: a rose that was not generic, but distinctly Guerlain’s.

Interpreted in scent, Guerlarose offered what its name promised: an ode to rose, elevated by Guerlain’s signature accord of vanilla, tonka, and iris. The result would not have been a simple soliflore, but a rose wrapped in powdery softness, shaded by subtle balsamic depth, and made luminous with gentle aldehydic brightness. Compared to other fragrances of the time, it balanced tradition with innovation. While floral perfumes were abundant, Guerlarose distinguished itself by layering the queenly rose over the unmistakable Guerlinade, ensuring both familiarity and originality.

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Guerlarose by Guerlain is classified as a floral fragrance for women featuring beautiful rose notes over the Guerlinade accord.

• Top notes: rose, lemon, aldehyde, bergamot, rose geranium
• Middle notes: rose, violet, jasmine, heliotrope, orange blossom
• Base notes: almond, orris, tonka bean, vanilla, ambergris, vetiver

 

Recently, I was fortunate enough to obtain a sample of Guerlarose from my good friend, Alexandra Star, who curates an impressive collection of rare antique Guerlain treasures in her Etsy shop, Parfums de Paris. For those who would like to experience the well-blended floral sweetness of this long-discontinued gem, Alexandra’s shop is a wonderful place to explore—each piece offered there is a testament to her eye for beauty and passion for perfume history.

Scent Profile:

Guerlarose opens with a radiant rose, the unmistakable queen of flowers unfolding immediately. Its aroma is lush and velvety, sweet with a slight green freshness, suggesting roses grown in Grasse, where the high sun and cool nights produce blooms rich in natural esters, giving the petals a soft, honeyed nuance. This is heightened by rose geranium, a leafier, more herbaceous counterpart that adds a green, almost minty lift, balancing the fullness of the petals and providing a gentle aromatic complexity. Lemon and bergamot bring a sparkling citrus brightness, their essential oils contributing zesty top notes that open the fragrance with a light, sunlit effervescence. Layered over this is a subtle shimmer of aldehydes, adding a crisp, slightly metallic lift that enhances the floral bouquet and gives the perfume a modern, airy elegance uncommon for its time.

At the heart, Guerlarose deepens into a floral symphony. Jasmine enriches the composition with its intoxicating indolic warmth, its oil from Egypt or India prized for richness and heady complexity. Violet provides powdery softness, ethereal and almost translucent, complementing the green-tinged rose geranium, while heliotrope contributes a gentle almond-like sweetness, softening the heart and weaving it into a comforting, enveloping floral tapestry. Orange blossom introduces a delicate, sun-kissed note with a slightly creamy facet, enhancing the natural floral brightness without overpowering the rose. Together, these florals create a harmonious, multi-dimensional bouquet, balancing intensity with elegance.

The base grounds the fragrance with warmth and sensuality. Almond, sweet and nutty, resonates alongside tonka bean, which adds balsamic sweetness enriched by vanillin-like compounds naturally present in the bean. Orris root brings a soft, powdery veil, lending the perfume a delicate iris-like dryness, while vanilla amplifies the comforting, gourmand undertones. Ambergris, a rare marine-derived note, adds subtle saltiness and animalic warmth, enhancing the floral heart and giving longevity to the perfume. Vetiver, earthy and smoky, provides depth and structure, contrasting the sweetness and powdery florals with a sophisticated, slightly woody resonance. Together, these base notes build a long-lasting, multi-layered foundation, making Guerlarose feel at once intimate and radiant.

What makes Guerlarose exceptional is the interplay of natural and synthetic elements. Aldehydes highlight the floral brightness, providing a lift that natural rose and citrus alone could not achieve, while heliotrope and tonka bean’s vanillin-like compounds work in concert with natural orris and almond to create a powdery gourmand warmth. The result is a fragrance that captures the elegance of classic roses yet feels modern, luminous, and enduring—the hallmark of Guerlain’s signature Guerlinade accord.

Smelling Guerlarose is like walking through a sun-drenched rose garden at dawn: petals soft and dewy, layered with hints of sweet almond, distant woods, and the lingering warmth of amber—a perfume that is both comforting and unforgettable.

Fashions of the Hour, 1930:

"Guerlilas and Guerlarose, are such utterly bewitching antidotes. And finally because the smart black and green boxes will perk up a dressing table no end. Each bottle holds 2 ounces. $15 apiece."

Scribner's Magazine, 1930:

"Guerlilas (lilac) and Guerlarose (rose), make most timely gifts. For what more in keeping with the present style than the discreet elegance of perfumes distilled from the flower itself? The purity of the scent remains absolutely unchanged."

 

Advertising & Selling, 1931:

"Guerlarose and Guerlilas are encased in a magnificent pillar of black and silver in alternate horizontal bands which might be the work of Brancusi himself." 

Fortune, 1931:

"Guerlilas and Guerlarose, two flower odeurs, are the latest expressions of Guerlain genius. Choose as you will, but let the fairest name on your Christmas list be the one matched with a perfume by Guerlain."

 

Bottles:

Presented in four different size ‘Guerlilas’ bottles as well as the quadrilobe flacon.

Photos from polyvore, drouot, wikipedia, basenotes, museu del perfum

Fate of the Fragrance:

Guerlarose was launched by Guerlain in 1930, during a period of both elegance and experimentation in perfumery. While the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown, records show that it was still being sold as late as 1961, giving the fragrance a market presence of at least three decades. Its enduring availability reflects both the appeal of its floral composition and Guerlain’s practice of maintaining classic scents over time, even as new launches emerged. Today, Guerlarose’s longevity on the market adds to its mystique, making it a cherished example of early 20th-century Guerlain artistry.

Fol Arome c1896

Fol Arôme by Guerlain was originally launched in 1896, a period marked by optimism and artistic innovation in the Belle Époque, when Paris was at the height of cultural sophistication. Jacques Guerlain chose the name “Fol Arôme,” which is French for “Mad Aroma” or “Crazy Fragrance” (pronounced fohl ah-ROHM), suggesting a perfume that is audacious, exuberant, and daring. The name evokes images of lush, exotic gardens, warm tropical breezes, and a bold, adventurous spirit—an olfactory invitation to escape the ordinary and indulge in fragrant fantasies. For women of the time, the idea of a perfume called Fol Arôme would have conveyed both sophistication and exotic allure, promising a scent that was unconventional, warm, and captivating.

The perfume was crafted as a warm, aromatic floral, designed to transport the wearer to faraway lands. It combined tropical flowers—those with a lush, velvety richness reminiscent of pineapple or banana, rather than the familiar crispness of European blooms—with exotic woods and spices. Notes included cinnamon, sandalwood, and aromatics like pepper and green peppers, alongside bois du rose—a lightly odorous wood from French Guiana, distinct from traditional rosewood. This nuanced blend of tropical florals, spices, and rare woods lent the fragrance both warmth and complexity, setting it apart from the lighter, more conventional florals that dominated the market at the time.

The period of Fol Arôme’s launch was one of experimentation and fascination with the exotic, fueled by colonial trade and growing interest in tropical ingredients. Perfumes that incorporated distant or unusual raw materials were highly prized, and Guerlain’s access to secret tropical essences—closely guarded within the house—allowed the fragrance to stand out as both luxurious and novel. Compared to other fragrances of the late 19th century, which favored more restrained European florl bouquets, Fol Arôme was unusually bold, a statement of olfactory adventure and artistry. The 1912 reformulation only refined these exotic elements, preserving the perfume’s character while modernizing its composition to maintain relevance in a rapidly evolving perfumery landscape.

Women wearing Fol Arôme would have experienced a warm, enveloping scent that hinted at distant lands, mysterious flowers, and richly spiced woods. The perfume’s “mad aroma” lived up to its name, offering an intoxicating interplay of tropical freshness, aromatic spice, and luxurious woods—a fragrance that felt daring, elegant, and entirely Guerlain.

c1918 ad

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Fol Arôme is classified as a warm, aromatic floral fragrance for women. It was described as a warm perfume of tropical flowers and woods.

• Top notes: jasmine, anise, pineapple, lavender, bergamot, cinnamon, green pepper
• Middle notes: jasmine, daffodil, rose, ylang ylang, De Laire's Bouvardia base, mint, clary sage, marjoram, orris, black pepper
• Base notes: French Guiana bois du rose, sandalwood, musk, carnation, sweet acacia, vanilla

Evening Star, 1913:

"Rue de la Paix is softly sweet, restful, nothing pungent, but haunting and even makes a crave. Costs $5 for the smallest bottle, of scarcely seventy grams liquid contents. Guerlain's 'Fol Arome' is a perfume of flowers, but of what you would call tropical flowers. It is a warm perfume, as a pineapple or banana compared to an apple. There are also tropical woods in it, cinnamon, sandalwood, aromatics like pepper, and green peppers and bois du rose, not what we called rosewood, but an odorous wood, very light, from French Guiana. The elder Guerlain says that they have several tropical essences which are a secret of their house."

Scent Profile:

Fol Arôme by Guerlain is a lush, warm, and aromatic floral fragrance that immediately envelops the senses in an exotic embrace, transporting you to faraway gardens where tropical blooms thrive under a golden sun. At first spray, the top notes burst forth with the creamy sweetness of jasmine, its natural indoles lending a heady, animalic sensuality, softened by the subtle, licorice-like sparkle of anise. Pineapple adds a juicy, sun-ripened tropical facet, evoking the brightness and warmth of a far-flung orchard, while bergamot imparts a crisp, luminous citrus top that lifts the composition with airy clarity. The aromatic warmth of cinnamon swirls through the opening, offering a gentle spice reminiscent of distant markets, while green pepper contributes a piquant, almost vegetal kick, giving the initial spray a lively, effervescent energy. The lavender adds a classic Guerlain herbal signature, softening the fruit and spice with its aromatic, slightly camphorous character, rounding out the introduction with refinement.

As Fol Arôme settles, the middle notes reveal a lush heart of tropical and European florals. Jasmine deepens, harmonizing with velvety daffodil and soft rose, creating a luminous floral trio that feels simultaneously rich and airy. Ylang ylang brings its creamy, heady, tropical aroma, tinged with banana-like sweetness, while Bouvardia—a De Laire proprietary base—adds a delicate powdery floral nuance that enhances the bouquet’s elegance. The herbal lifts of mint, clary sage, and marjoram introduce aromatic freshness and complexity, while orris root imparts a soft, powdery iris-like texture. Black pepper introduces a subtle, warming piquancy, threading the florals with an understated, refined spice that keeps the fragrance from becoming cloying.

In the base, Fol Arôme deepens into a sensual and exotic foundation. The rare bois du rose from French Guiana, a delicately odorous tropical wood distinct from the traditional rosewood of Asia, offers a light, sweetly woody character that is both mysterious and elegant. Sandalwood adds its creamy, milky richness, enveloping the floral heart with a comforting warmth. The animalic depth of musk and the subtle carnation-like nuance of carnation bring intimacy and sensuality, while sweet acacia and vanilla provide a gourmand, comforting sweetness. The overall dry-down is a perfectly blended balance of exotic florals, warm woods, and aromatic spices—a fragrance that is both audacious and refined, capturing the “mad aroma” its name promises.

Fol Arôme stands out for its use of tropical ingredients, spices, and aromatic herbs, combining natural essences with Guerlain’s proprietary bases to create an olfactory experience that feels exotic, opulent, and meticulously layered. Each element—from the heady indoles in jasmine to the tropical woodiness of French Guiana’s bois du rose—is carefully chosen to evoke warmth, adventure, and sensuality, making it a truly distinctive perfume for its era.

Bottles:

Fol Arome was presented in a remarkable succession of flacons, each reflecting Guerlain’s dedication to artistry, craftsmanship, and the celebration of luxury. The fragrance was first offered in the Vinaigrier Ottoman bottle, a design originally used in 1870, inspired by traditional Ottoman forms. Its exotic lines and elegant contours complemented the tropical and aromatic character of the perfume, signaling an adventurous sophistication even before the scent touched the skin.

Around 1900, Fol Arome was presented in the Flacon Persane for the parfum, a long-necked, slender bottle that enhanced the sense of refinement and elongation, echoing the perfume’s warm and elegant olfactory personality. By 1902, the Flacon Empire was introduced, though surviving examples are rare; its classical architectural influence provided a stately frame for the luxurious fragrance.

The quadrilobe flacon, launched in 1908 for the parfum, became a signature Guerlain design. Its four-lobed stopper offered both stability and visual elegance, a perfect complement to the fragrance’s layered complexity. In 1912, Guerlain elevated Fol Arome further with the ‘Bouchon Cœur’ bottle, crafted by Cristalleries de Baccarat. This heart-shaped crystal stopper sparkled with clarity and brilliance, making the flacon a jewel in itself—a visual statement as luxurious as the scent contained within.

In 1923, the Goutte flacon was introduced for the eau de toilette, a teardrop-shaped bottle that captured the fluidity and delicacy of the perfume, emphasizing the ethereal nature of its tropical floral notes. By 1955, the Amphore flacon appeared for the parfum version, its classical amphora-inspired columnar shape highlighting refinement and timelessness. Some sources suggest that Fol Arome may also have been offered in the Montre flacon as an eau de cologne, demonstrating Guerlain’s intent to make this luxurious fragrance available in multiple formats and concentrations.

Across these varied presentations, the flacons of Fol Arome do more than contain the perfume—they tell a story of elegance, creativity, and the house’s unyielding pursuit of visual and olfactory artistry. Each design, from the exotic curves of the Ottoman bottle to the sparkling heart of the Baccarat crystal, mirrors the fragrance’s rich, tropical warmth and ensures that Fol Arome remains a statement of taste, sophistication, and historical significance.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Fol Arome was originally launched in 1896, a period when perfumery was embracing both exoticism and the innovative use of aromatic ingredients from around the globe. Its warm, tropical floral character captured the imagination of early 20th-century women, offering a luxurious and sophisticated scent that contrasted with the lighter, more conventional florals of the era. In 1912, the fragrance was reformulated and relaunched, reflecting Guerlain’s commitment to refinement and evolving taste, while preserving the original essence that had made it beloved.

Despite the changes, Fol Arome maintained its popularity for decades, still being sold in 1941, during a period when perfumery was heavily influenced by wartime constraints but also a desire for small luxuries. In 1947, Guerlain re-launched the original formula, reasserting its classic status in the post-war perfume market, when women sought scents that evoked both elegance and optimism. This edition remained available through 1958, reflecting enduring appreciation for its warm, aromatic floral composition.

Eventually, Fol Arome was discontinued, but its long lifespan—spanning more than six decades—underscores its significance in the Guerlain oeuvre. The fragrance’s ability to adapt to different eras, while retaining its tropical floral warmth, demonstrates both the house’s artistry and the timeless appeal of a well-crafted perfume that balances exotic ingredients, aromatic complexity, and olfactory sophistication.

2020 Reissue:

In 2020, Guerlain honored the legacy of Fol Arome with a meticulously reworked version of the discontinued 1912 formula. Created under the guidance of Thierry Wasser, this modern revival remains faithful to the original extrait, capturing the warm, tropical floral elegance and aromatic complexity that made the fragrance iconic over a century ago. The relaunch reflects Guerlain’s dedication to historical accuracy and olfactory artistry, balancing nostalgia with contemporary refinement.

This limited edition is strikingly exclusive, with only 964 examples released worldwide. Each 30ml extrait is housed in the crystal Bouchon Cœur flacon, a signature design that elevates the perfume into an object of beauty as much as scent. The heart-shaped stopper sparkles with the clarity and craftsmanship of Baccarat crystal, emphasizing the luxury and collectible nature of this edition. Priced at $775 USD, the fragrance is both a celebration of Guerlain’s heritage and a statement piece for collectors and connoisseurs.

The 2020 Fol Arome embodies a sensorial journey: from the first waft of tropical florals and warm spices to the lingering richness of exotic woods, musk, and vanilla. Its limited availability and faithful recreation of the original formula make it a rare opportunity to experience a historical masterpiece in a contemporary context, connecting the past and present in a truly elegant olfactory experience. As of 20205, this exceptional edition is still available, with a new price of $800.

Fragrance Composition:

 

• Top notes: mint, peach, Provencal lavender, bergamot
• Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, sambac jasmine, sage, narcissus
• Base notes: carnation, acacia, vanilla, orris, powdery notes

Scent Profile:

The 2020 revival of Fol Arome by Guerlain opens with a sparkling, refreshing interplay of mint, peach, lavender, and bergamot, immediately awakening the senses. The mint is crisp and invigorating, its herbal sharpness tempered by the juicy sweetness of sun-ripened peach, which provides a velvety, almost tactile fruitiness that contrasts beautifully with the aromatic clarity of Provence lavender. Bergamot, sourced from Calabria in southern Italy, adds a luminous, citrusy top note that feels sunny and effervescent, its natural bitter-sweetness enhanced subtly by the underlying green facets of the mint. Together, these top notes create an invigorating and playful introduction, a modern flourish that immediately draws attention yet remains sophisticated.

As the fragrance settles, the heart reveals a lush bouquet of Grasse rose and Grasse jasmine, two iconic flowers from the historic perfumery region of Grasse, France. The Grasse rose exudes a creamy, dewy sweetness, rich in natural phenols that impart depth and complexity, while Grasse jasmine carries the narcotic, indolic character synonymous with the Sambac and Grandiflorum species, its natural molecules like jasmone and benzyl acetate giving a honeyed, heady lift. Intertwined with these blooms are sage and narcissus, which add an aromatic and slightly green, peppery nuance; sage contributes camphorous freshness and herbaceous clarity, while narcissus offers a creamy, slightly waxy floral nuance that enhances the opulence of the bouquet. This heart is both warm and enveloping, a delicate yet intensely floral passage that bridges the sparkling top with the creamy, comforting base.

The base unfolds with carnation, acacia, vanilla, orris, and powdery notes, grounding the composition in warmth and sophistication. The carnation imparts a spicy, clove-like nuance, its eugenol content giving a natural warmth that blends seamlessly with French acacia, which adds soft honeyed sweetness and a subtle golden floral undertone. Vanilla provides a comforting gourmand touch, its vanillin molecules balancing the natural spiciness of the florals. Orris root, renowned for its violet-like powderiness and creamy texture, adds a luxurious, lingering depth that evokes classic Guerlain elegance. Finally, subtle powdery facets round out the base, tying the composition together with a soft, enveloping finish that feels intimate and timeless.

In its entirety, this modern Fol Arome captures the essence of the original 1912 extrait, yet the precision and clarity of the 2020 version bring each ingredient into sharper relief. The interplay of natural essences from Grasse and Provence with carefully calibrated aromatic and powdery nuances demonstrates Guerlain’s mastery in balancing tradition and contemporary refinement. Every inhalation is a journey—from sparkling freshness to heady floral heart, to the soothing, sensual caress of the base—inviting the wearer into a world of elegance, warmth, and timeless sophistication.

Vere Novo c1895

Vere Novo by Guerlain was introduced in 1895, during a time when the house was firmly establishing itself as one of the premier arbiters of refined French perfumery. The name, Vere Novo, comes directly from Latin, translating to “Spring.” Pronounced as “Vay-ray No-vo”, the phrase is not only a linguistic echo of antiquity but also a direct reference to a poem by Victor Hugo, who used the words to evoke themes of renewal, vitality, and the beauty of nature’s rebirth. Guerlain, like many perfumers of the late 19th century, often drew inspiration from the arts—whether literature, opera, or poetry—giving his perfumes cultural resonance as well as olfactory delight. By choosing this name, Guerlain aligned the fragrance with poetic imagination and the timeless cycle of nature.

The word Vere Novo conjures vivid imagery: the first budding blossoms after winter, fresh greenery unfurling in soft light, and the air scented with earth newly awakened by rain. Emotionally, it suggests optimism, rejuvenation, and a delicate joy, much like the tender warmth of early spring days. For women and men of the Belle Époque—the glittering cultural period in which this perfume was born—these associations would have been deeply appealing. The Belle Époque (1871–1914) was marked by prosperity, artistic innovation, and a fascination with elegance and leisure. Fashions leaned toward light, elaborate textiles, airy hats, and flowing gowns, reflecting the era’s indulgence in beauty and refinement. In perfumery, the trends shifted toward increasingly complex compositions, where florals, woods, and new synthetics offered both longevity and richness that earlier perfumes lacked.

For a woman in 1895, wearing a perfume called Vere Novo would have felt like carrying springtime with her, even into the social salons, theaters, or garden promenades of Paris. The name itself would have resonated as both sophisticated and romantic, blending classical learning with modern sensibility. The interpretation of Vere Novo in scent would likely embody fresh florals softened with woody undertones—bright and awakening, yet grounded in elegance. It may have suggested dew-touched blossoms opening on branches, tempered by woods that lent stability and warmth, a balance between lightness and depth.

In the context of its time, Vere Novo was both of its era and forward-looking. The late 19th century saw the rise of floral perfumes with greater complexity, aided by advances in synthetic aroma-chemicals such as coumarin and vanillin, which allowed perfumers to build fuller, more enduring compositions. Yet Guerlain’s choice of a Latin name tied to Victor Hugo elevated the fragrance beyond mere fashion, giving it cultural gravitas. While it aligned with the floral-woody trend, Vere Novo also distinguished itself by linking poetic inspiration with the sensory evocation of spring, offering wearers not just a perfume, but a narrative of rebirth, refinement, and timeless elegance.

Vere Novo: The Genesis of Butterflies (Translation by Andrew Lang (1844-1912) from Poetry-Archive.com.):

The dawn is smiling on the dew that covers
The tearful roses; lo, the little lovers
That kiss the buds, and all the flutterings
In jasmine bloom, and privet, of white wings,
That go and come, and fly, and peep and hide,
With muffled music, murmured far and wide.
Ah, the Spring time, when we think of all the lays
That dreamy lovers send to dreamy mays,
Of the fond hearts within a billet bound,
Of all the soft silk paper that pens wound,
The messages of love that mortals write
Filled with intoxication of delight,
Written in April and before the May time
Shredded and flown, playthings for the wind’s playtime,
We dream that all white butterflies above,
Who seek through clouds or waters souls to love,
And leave their lady mistress in despair,
To flit to flowers, as kinder and more fair,
Are but torn love-letters, that through the skies
Flutter, and float, and change to butterflies.

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? Vere Novo is classified as a floral woody fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: bergamot, cassie, acacia, mimosa, saffron
• Middle notes: jasmine, violets, galbanum, heliotrope, hyacinth, rose, honey, snow bells, narcissus,
• Base notes: civet, guaiac, vanilla, leather, woody notes, balsam, musk, ambergris, pine

Scent Profile:

Smelling Vere Novo is like walking through a sunlit garden at the height of spring, every step revealing another hidden pocket of blossoms, resins, and woods. Its composition unfurls slowly, shifting from sparkling brightness to lush florals and finally to deep, sensual warmth, each note carefully layered to capture the poetry of renewal.

The opening greets you with the brisk, lively sparkle of bergamot, a citrus fruit cultivated in Calabria, Italy, where the unique climate produces oils both luminous and slightly floral, containing high levels of limonene and linalyl acetate that lend brightness and lift. Immediately, this radiance is softened by the powdery, golden airiness of cassie (Acacia farnesiana), which brings a honeyed warmth with undertones of violet and leather, due to its naturally occurring ionones and coumarins. The acacia itself adds a deeper sweetness, more resinous and earthy than mimosa, while mimosa blooms contribute a tender, almond-like puff of powder, almost tactile in their softness. Into this bouquet slips saffron, its strands offering a bittersweet, leathery nuance with metallic warmth, carried by safranal and picrocrocin. Together, these top notes paint the early spring dawn: fresh, golden, alive with delicate yet radiant energy.

As the fragrance deepens, the heart blossoms with opulence. Jasmine, rich in benzyl acetate and indole, radiates a narcotic sensuality—lush yet slightly animalic—while violets, through ionones, add a candied, powdery elegance, veiling the composition in soft purple hues. Galbanum, a resin from Persia, cuts sharply through the florals with its piercing green bitterness, heavy with hexenals and galbanol, conjuring the first shoots of grass breaking through soil. Heliotrope follows, almond-powdered and vanillic, soothing in its sweetness thanks to heliotropin, while hyacinth floods the senses with cool, watery green florals, crystalline and crisp. Rose, timeless and velvety, offers a balance of citronellol and geraniol, its dewy freshness tempered by honeyed richness. A veil of honey itself adds a golden, animalic sweetness, sticky with warmth, while snowbells and narcissus lend a crystalline, almost icy floral note contrasted by narcissus’ heady, indolic depth. This heart feels alive—bright, lush, green, and intoxicating—like standing in a garden where spring flowers clash and harmonize in dazzling variety.

The base grounds the exuberance, revealing the sensual sophistication that marked Guerlain’s style. Civet, with its musky, slightly fecal yet warm sweetness, adds a human, animalic depth—softened by musk, which smooths and rounds the edges, transforming the animal growl into a caress. Guaiac wood contributes smoky, tarry warmth, oily with guaiacol, while vanilla (rich in vanillin) lends its familiar, creamy sweetness, both softening the sharper resins and amplifying the florals’ honeyed tones. Leather notes weave through the base with a bitter-tar quality, evoking well-worn gloves or saddlery, while balsam adds a syrupy, resinous sweetness, acting as a cushion for the woods. Ambergris, rare and marine, lends salty warmth and a smooth, radiant diffusion, harmonizing the animalics with the balsams and vanilla. Finally, pine, crisp and resinous, breathes an invigorating freshness into the base, balancing warmth with an evergreen sharpness.

Together, Vere Novo feels like a living tableau of spring—damp earth and budding flowers, pollen-laced air warmed by sun, the sweetness of blossoms carried on a breeze tinged with woods and leather. The interplay of natural materials and synthetics (ionones, heliotropin, vanillin) gives the perfume both realism and structure, heightening what nature provides while ensuring longevity and depth. It is not merely a floral-woody fragrance, but an olfactory poem of rebirth—faithful to its name, Vere Novo, “Spring.”

Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Vere Novo was launched by Guerlain in 1895, during the height of the Belle Époque, a period characterized by optimism, prosperity, and cultural flourishing. The name itself, drawn from Victor Hugo’s poem and translating from Latin as “Spring,” positioned the fragrance as a celebration of renewal, vitality, and nature’s rebirth. Its release reflected Guerlain’s ability to align poetry, literature, and fine perfumery, offering clients not only a scent but an artistic expression of the era’s ideals.

The fragrance enjoyed remarkable longevity on the market. Records suggest that Vere Novo remained available well into the early 20th century, with mentions around 1935 and possibly lingering until the disruption of World War I. This long shelf life highlights both its popularity and Guerlain’s practice of maintaining enduring classics alongside new creations, giving clients familiar favorites they could return to for years.

The precise date of Vere Novo’s discontinuation remains uncertain, but its eventual withdrawal likely reflects broader cultural and economic shifts. The upheavals of the First World War, followed by changing tastes in perfumery during the interwar years, gradually eclipsed late 19th-century floral-woody compositions. By the 1930s, consumers were drawn to streamlined, modern perfumes with sharper aldehydic openings and more daring accords, leaving Vere Novo a treasured relic of an earlier, more romantic age.