Oeillet 000 c1880

Oeillet 000 by Guerlain, launched around 1880, takes its name from the French word œillet (pronounced uh-yay), meaning carnation—a blossom long associated with love, passion, and refinement. The addition of “000,” or Triple Extrait, signified the perfume’s remarkable strength and purity, a mark of luxury and exclusivity. In essence, Oeillet 000 translates to Triple Extract of Carnation, a name that promised depth, richness, and intensity far beyond ordinary floral waters. To the 19th-century woman, this was a statement of elegant sensuality, a scent that embodied both boldness and grace.

The word œillet evokes vivid imagery—velvety red petals tinged with clove, their spicy sweetness unfolding in soft waves. It conjures emotions of romance and vitality, yet also discipline and polish; for in Victorian culture, the carnation symbolized devotion and admiration, a flower worn by gentlemen in buttonholes and adored by women for its lingering, peppery perfume. The name “Oeillet 000” suggests something both precise and indulgent—a scent crafted with care, yet opulent enough to intoxicate the senses.

The year 1880 fell within the Belle Époque, a period of cultural flourishing in France marked by elegance, optimism, and innovation. Paris was the world’s capital of luxury, where fashion, cosmetics, and perfume were integral to self-expression. Women’s dress at the time was elaborate—corseted bodices, trailing skirts, and silken gloves—and perfume served as the invisible complement to this visual splendor. Guerlain’s Oeillet 000 would have suited the sophisticated woman of this era—poised, socially aware, and drawn to the refined sensuality that only a house like Guerlain could produce.

In perfumery, carnation fragrances were already admired for their warm, spicy floral character, but Guerlain’s Triple Extrait stood apart for its exceptional concentration and polish. While many perfumeries of the period offered oeillet perfumes, Guerlain elevated the form by refining the balance between natural carnation absolutes and emerging synthetics such as eugenol and isoeugenol—aroma compounds found in clove and ylang ylang that replicate the flower’s distinctive, spicy profile. These synthetics enhanced the perfume’s complexity, lending it a luminous warmth and long-lasting vibrancy that natural materials alone could not achieve.

In scent, Oeillet 000 would have opened with the peppery sparkle of fresh carnation petals, softened by traces of clove and rose. The heart likely bloomed into a lush bouquet of warm florals, underscored by powdery notes and a faintly balsamic sweetness. As it settled on the skin, the perfume would reveal a velvety, ambery base, its spiciness mellowed by soft woods and musk—a composition both bold and romantic, perfectly suited to the refined yet passionate sensibilities of the era.

In the context of 19th-century perfumery, Oeillet 000 both aligned with contemporary floral trends and transcended them through its concentration and technical artistry. Guerlain’s mastery lay in transforming familiar floral themes into olfactory luxury—taking something traditional, like the carnation, and rendering it sublime through precision, imagination, and depth. Oeillet 000 was not merely a perfume; it was an expression of craftsmanship and identity, the scent of a woman who understood beauty as both art and power.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Oeillet 000 is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: carnation, eugenol, orange blossom, cassie
• Middle notes: clove, isoeugenol, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang 
• Base notes: vanilla, civet, storax

Scent Profile:

To smell Oeillet 000 is to encounter a fragrance that seems to smolder softly in the air—a velvety, spicy floral that fuses warmth and elegance with the precise craftsmanship that defined Guerlain’s 19th-century artistry. It opens with the unmistakable fire of carnation, the flower that inspired its name, whose scent is not purely floral but textured with spice, clove, and a faint medicinal sweetness. The carnation note—drawn from natural extracts and enriched by eugenol, a key molecule also found in clove—creates the perfume’s signature duality: at once feminine and assertive, a bloom with both beauty and bite. This opening is lifted by a breath of orange blossom, radiant and honeyed, which softens the carnation’s sharper edges and brings a gentle sunlight warmth to the first impression. Alongside, cassie (from the acacia tree of Egypt and southern France) adds a powdery, mimosa-like greenness with faint violet and almond undertones, grounding the brightness with a natural, skin-like warmth.

As the perfume unfolds, the spicy facets deepen. Clove—rich, dark, and aromatic—merges with isoeugenol, a synthetic molecule developed to echo the natural oil but with a smoother, rounder profile. Together, they amplify the floral fire of carnation, giving it both longevity and luminosity. The middle notes bloom with rose, jasmine, and ylang ylang, each contributing a different shade of sensuality: the rose lending its classic, powdery romance; jasmine infusing a narcotic, indolic depth; and ylang ylang from the Comoros islands bringing a creamy, almost banana-like lushness. These tropical blossoms, with their natural components such as benzyl acetate, linalool, and methyl anthranilate, form a luxurious heart that transforms the sharp clove notes into something rounder and more feminine. The interplay between these natural essences and their synthetic counterparts—particularly the eugenol derivatives—creates a harmony of heat and softness, mimicking the living carnation more faithfully than nature alone could provide.

As it settles, Oeillet 000 becomes warmer, more intimate, and deeply sensual. The base glows with vanilla, its sweetness thickened by the balsamic tones of storax, a resin prized for its leathery, smoky warmth. Civet, in minute quantity, adds a faintly animalic undertone—an echo of skin, warmth, and luxury—that transforms the floral spiciness into something profoundly human and tactile. This was a hallmark of Guerlain’s work: a subtle sensuality that never shouted, but lingered like a secret.

The effect is of a fragrance alive with contrast—floral yet spicy, warm yet polished, natural yet artfully refined. You can almost imagine the materials themselves: the spiced air of a Parisian boudoir, the gleam of cut carnations in crystal vases, and the soft rustle of silk as perfume warms against the skin. Oeillet 000 was more than a scent; it was a sensory portrait of 19th-century femininity, rendered in clove, rose, and amber light.

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre Flacon (parfum) and the flacon Goutte (eau de toilette).

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1931 (as just Oeillet).

Ladies In All Climates - Face Powder 1897

Once upon a time, in the elegant year of 1897, Guerlain introduced a remarkable innovation in beauty — Ladies in All Climates, a universal light powder designed to illuminate and refresh the complexion. At a moment when Impressionist painters were capturing the fleeting shimmer of light and photography was beginning to reveal subtle gradations of tone and shadow, Guerlain sought to do the same for the skin. This powder was a poetic interpretation of light itself — a beauty product that mirrored the way sunlight played across a landscape or the way soft shadows curved along the cheek.

The creation of Ladies in All Climates was more than cosmetic; it was cultural. During the late 19th century, travel was becoming increasingly possible for women. Steamships, railways, and new modes of transport opened the world to the adventurous and the refined alike. Guerlain, ever attuned to the needs of the modern woman, envisioned a powder that could accompany her across every latitude — from the soft mists of Paris to the blazing sun of the French colonies. Wherever she went, this delicate veil of powder promised to preserve her complexion’s freshness and grace.

At the time, pale skin was a mark of refinement, and sun exposure was considered unladylike. Ladies in All Climates was therefore more than a vanity item; it was a form of protection — a means to maintain the aristocratic pallor admired in the Belle Époque. Guerlain’s formula helped women retain their fair coloring even under tropical skies, combining lightness, refinement, and a subtle radiance that seemed to filter the face through a soft-focus lens, much like the art and photography that inspired it. The powder was originally available in four shades: White, Rachel, Pink, and Flesh.

The powder’s name itself was a declaration of universality — Ladies in All Climates — a phrase that spoke to inclusivity before its time. It suggested a beauty without borders, adaptable to all women, whatever their origin, wherever they might be. Guerlain’s genius lay not only in his formulas but in his understanding of the modern woman’s aspirations: her wish to move freely, to explore, and yet to remain effortlessly composed.

,

Harper's Weekly, 1903:

"Beware all face powders which have the effect of whitening too much. The major part of these powders contain chemically active constituents which in time spoil the skin. Guerlain's powder 'Ladies in all Climates' is a product which is absolutely harmless, it vivifies the complexion and my ladies, prudence counsels you not to seek further effects from its use."

The Queenslander, Saturday 25 December 1915:

"Guerlain (15 Rue de la Paix, Paris) With his most respectful compliments calls attention to his POWDER. LADIES IN ALL CLIMATES. This Powder, which is made in four shades, White, Rachael, Pink, and Flesh Colour, is an absolutely neutral product; it cannot affect in any way the epidermis. Moreover, it is soft, and has a very agreeable perfume. It is so much neutral that it can be used during any medical treatment, even with sulphurous baths."

2013 Limited Edition:

In 2013, Guerlain paid homage to its storied past by reissuing one of its most legendary creations — Ladies in All Climates — in an exclusive limited edition of only 400 numbered pieces. This modern reinterpretation was more than a revival; it was a tribute to over a century of Guerlain’s artistry in the delicate craft of face powders. Carefully recreated with the same spirit of refinement as the 1897 original, the 2013 edition sought to veil the skin in the same luminous softness, evoking that timeless impression of freshness and poise that defined the Belle Époque woman.

Each compact was a work of art in itself, echoing the luxurious craftsmanship and design sensibilities that have long distinguished Guerlain. The powder within retained its ethereal quality — an ultra-fine texture that seemed to dissolve upon application, leaving the complexion haloed in a transparent light, as if touched by the softest morning sun. Its transparency was key: neither matte nor glistening, it lent a natural radiance, a voile de lumière that enhanced the skin rather than masking it.

By releasing only 400 pieces, Guerlain transformed the reissue into a collector’s treasure, an object that celebrated both beauty and heritage. The limited numbering underscored its exclusivity, linking each compact to a lineage that stretched back more than a century — to a time when women carried their Guerlain powders in silver or tortoiseshell cases as symbols of sophistication and travel-ready elegance.

In this 2013 edition, Guerlain achieved a delicate balance between tradition and innovation. The powder captured the same light-infused philosophy of the original Ladies in All Climates, while benefiting from modern advances in texture and formulation. It was a powder designed not only to beautify but to evoke — to remind the wearer of an era when makeup was an art, a ritual, and an expression of timeless grace.

Geranium c1839

Guerlain’s Geranium, launched in 1839 by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, takes its name directly from the flower, known in French as géranium (pronounced “zhay-rah-nee-um”). The choice of name immediately evokes images of lush, verdant gardens in full bloom, where delicate pink, red, and white blossoms mingle with sunlight and gentle breezes. There is an inherent freshness and refined elegance suggested by the word Geranium, one that conveys both natural beauty and the subtle sophistication expected of early 19th-century French society.

The fragrance was introduced during a period in France known for its transition between the late Romantic era and early industrialization. Fashion and lifestyle were defined by opulence, refinement, and an appreciation for the artistry of everyday life. Women of the time would have seen a perfume called Geranium as a graceful expression of femininity and taste, a floral statement that was both fashionable and approachable. In scent, the name evokes the green, slightly peppery freshness of geranium leaves combined with the soft floral nuances of the blossoms themselves, a balance of sharpness and sweetness that delights the senses.

Classified as a spicy floral fragrance, Geranium fell in line with 19th-century trends where perfumers experimented with floral compositions enriched with gentle spice notes. While many perfumeries offered their own takes on geranium-based perfumes, Guerlain’s version distinguished itself through the careful use of high-quality natural extracts and the meticulous layering of ingredients. At the time, formulations relied on tinctures, infusions, and essential oils, but as the 19th century progressed, perfumers began incorporating synthetics and aromachemicals to enhance or substitute for natural raw materials. Guerlain’s Geranium successfully bridged these approaches, maintaining the authenticity of the natural flower while benefiting from modern techniques to accentuate its vibrancy and longevity, making it a standout in the perfume market of its era.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  Geranium by Guerlain is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women, reflecting the aromatic and slightly piquant character of the geranium flower..

• Top notes: bergamot, violet, geraniol
• Middle notes: rose, Algerian geranium, tuberose, jasmine, Manila ylang ylang
• Base notes: clove, musk, orris

Scent Profile:

Guerlain’s Geranium, classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women, opens with a sparkling top accord that immediately awakens the senses. The bergamot—likely sourced from the sun-drenched groves of Calabria, Italy—offers a crisp, luminous citrus brightness, its zesty tang invigorating yet delicate, with a subtle bitterness that prevents it from being overly sweet. Nestled alongside is the violet, providing a soft, powdery floral nuance that evokes the gentle fragrance of spring meadows. Central to this opening, the geraniol molecule—a key constituent of geranium essential oil—lends its green, rosy, slightly minty aroma, the very essence of the geranium flower that inspired the fragrance. This note is crucial for establishing the perfume’s aromatic and lightly piquant signature, bridging the freshness of citrus with the heart’s deeper florals.

The heart of Geranium blooms luxuriously with a bouquet of floral richness. Algerian geranium, known for its aromatic intensity and peppery nuance, adds a pronounced depth and complexity, distinguishing it from the softer geranium varieties of other regions. Its slightly spicy and herbaceous facets enhance the perfume’s character, offering both elegance and vivacity. Intertwined are rose petals, radiating classic sweetness, and the creamy, exotic allure of tuberose, which infuses the composition with a voluptuous, narcotic warmth. Jasmine, with its radiant, honeyed floral facets, harmonizes with the Manila ylang-ylang, whose sweet, slightly fruity and floral aroma adds a tropical softness. Together, these middle notes form a rich, velvety heart that balances freshness with opulent floral depth.

The base unfolds with sensual, grounding notes that leave a lingering impression. Clove introduces a warm, aromatic spiciness, complementing the heart’s floral vibrancy and accentuating the subtle piquancy of geranium. Musk contributes a soft, skin-like warmth, enveloping the composition in a gentle sensuality. Orris, derived from the precious iris root, adds a powdery, slightly woody and floral veil, extending the perfume’s longevity and lending an elegant sophistication to the dry-down. In Geranium, Guerlain masterfully balances natural ingredients and the selective use of aroma chemicals to heighten freshness, amplify floral radiance, and ensure a lasting, harmonious trail, producing a fragrance that is both timeless and unmistakably refined.

Bottles:

Originally launched in the 19th century, Geranium was first presented as a parfum in the elegant Carre flacon, a square-shaped bottle that reflected the refined, classical aesthetic of the era and emphasized the luxury of Guerlain’s compositions. The Carre flacon, with its clean lines and precise proportions, mirrored the meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail that defined perfumery at the time, making it a fitting vessel for such a sophisticated floral creation.

Beginning in 1923, the fragrance was also offered as an Eau de Toilette in the Goutte flacon, or “drop-shaped” bottle. This presentation softened the perfume’s visual identity, making it more approachable for everyday use while still maintaining a sense of elegance. The Goutte flacon’s curved, organic form contrasted with the geometric precision of the Carre flacon, suggesting a lighter, more accessible interpretation of the perfume that allowed women of the period to enjoy Geranium’s spicy floral charm throughout the day. Together, these bottles illustrate the evolution of Guerlain’s presentation styles, balancing opulence and practicality while preserving the fragrance’s timeless character.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Geranium eventually was discontinued, though the precise date remains unknown, leaving a gap in the historical record of its production. Its enduring presence, however, is documented at least as late as 1960s, demonstrating the fragrance’s sustained popularity well into the early 20th century.

During this period, Geranium would have continued to appeal to women who valued its spicy floral character, offering a refined balance of aromatic geranium, rose, and subtle base notes like clove and orris. Its availability in both the Carre flacon for parfum and the Goutte flacon for Eau de Toilette allowed the fragrance to remain versatile, catering to both formal occasions and everyday wear. The fact that it remained on sale for decades highlights its lasting significance within Guerlain’s repertoire, bridging 19th-century perfumery traditions with the emerging tastes of the 20th century.

Chypre c1838

Chypre by Guerlain, launched in 1838, stands as one of the earliest examples of a fragrance bearing the name of its family, “Chypre,” the French word for Cyprus, pronounced as "shee-pruh". The term evokes the sun-drenched Mediterranean island, conjuring images of mossy oak forests, warm amber, citrus groves, and rugged coastal landscapes. In perfumery, a Chypre is defined by the harmonious contrast of bright citrus top notes, a floral heart, and a warm, mossy-amber base, a structure that has endured for centuries and continues to influence fragrance creation to this day. The name itself carries a sense of refinement, sophistication, and natural elegance, promising a scent that is both complex and grounded in tradition.

The fragrance was created by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain at a time when the early 19th century marked a period of expansion in perfumery, fueled by the fascination with exotic ingredients and the development of modern extraction techniques. Women of the period would have recognized a perfume called “Chypre” as a luxurious and fashionable scent, evocative of far-off lands, botanical richness, and refined taste. Its combination of spicy florals and resinous warmth would have been perceived as both elegant and slightly daring, fitting perfectly into the romantic and opulent fashions of the era.

Unlike typical Chypres that followed a simple citrus-floral-moss structure, Guerlain’s 1838 version was classified as a complex, opulent oriental floral, layered with spicy floral notes to create a more intricate olfactory experience. Throughout the 19th century and well into the 20th, Chypre remained a popular template; nearly every perfumery had its own interpretation, often customized by varying ingredients to distinguish it on the market. Early formulas relied heavily on natural extracts, tinctures, and infusions, capturing the true essence of flowers, woods, and resins. By the close of the century, the inclusion of synthetics such as coumarin, vanillin, ambreine, and vetiveryl acetate allowed perfumers to emphasize or enhance natural materials, control longevity, and expand creative possibilities. In 1903, Jacques Guerlain reformulated Chypre, updating its composition to reflect contemporary tastes while carefully preserving the signature character that had made it a classic, demonstrating the Maison’s enduring mastery of fragrance innovation.

This Guerlain Chypre represents not just a perfume but a historical milestone—a fragrance that bridged traditional natural perfumery with modern chemistry, offering women of the 19th century a scent that was simultaneously exotic, elegant, and unmistakably luxurious.

In 1913, a newspaper article in Evening Star captured the discerning perspective of Zinda Brozia, emphasizing the elusive nature of perfume: “Mere names of perfumes give no idea…You must smell them.” Brozia’s comment underlines the fact that, especially for chypres, the name alone could never convey the intricate harmony of notes, textures, and lasting impressions within the bottle. She noted that while Houbigant had produced a ‘Cypris’ as early as 1775 and Walter Scott had referenced “chypres” in literature, the category was still fluid, with each perfumer interpreting the style in a personal way.

Brozia highlighted Guerlain’s contributions, mentioning both Cyprisine and Chypre de Paris. The original Chypre—created by Atkinson—had been highly successful, but its name was unprotected, allowing many perfumers to adopt the label for their own compositions. Despite being marketed in the modest $1.20 range, Guerlain’s Chypre de Paris was celebrated for its exceptional value, elegance, and longevity, reflecting the meticulous craftsmanship and compositional skill for which the house was renowned. Brozia suggested that its balance of distinction and enduring quality made it virtually impossible to replicate, highlighting the artistry embedded even in Guerlain’s more accessible offerings.

The article paints a vivid picture of the era, when perfumes were judged not just by name or price, but by the sophistication of their construction, the fidelity of their accords, and their ability to evoke emotion. Guerlain’s chypres, including Chypre de Paris, exemplified this ethos—each a small masterpiece that delivered both sensory pleasure and a reflection of the perfumer’s artistry, illustrating why the house’s fragrances commanded admiration across social classes and decades.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  Chypre by Guerlain is not just a typical chypre, it is classified as a complex, opulent oriental floral fragrance.

• Top notes: bergamot, bitter orange, petitgrain, limetta, neroli, citral, orange blossom, hyacinth, angelica, calamus
• Middle notes: heliotropin, cassie, clary sage, verbena, rosemary, rose geranium, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, tuberose, orris, nutmeg
• Base notes: olibanum, clove, cedarwood, sandalwood, tonka bean, coumarin, musk, safrole, oakmoss, vetiver, vetiveryl acetate, labdanum, patchouli, ambergris, ambreine, civet, castoreum, vanilla

Scent Profile:

Chypre by Guerlain opens with a citrus bouquet that instantly awakens the senses. The top notes of bergamot—likely sourced from Calabria, Italy, renowned for its vibrant, slightly bitter zest—bring a sparkling brightness that lifts the composition immediately. Bitter orange adds a deeper, almost resinous citrus warmth, while petitgrain, distilled from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, introduces a green, slightly floral nuance, contrasting beautifully with the sweeter, sunny limetta. Neroli, extracted from Tunisian blossoms, contributes its delicate, honeyed floral aroma, elevating the citrus brightness with a radiant, almost ethereal quality. The addition of citral, a synthetic aroma chemical that mirrors the lemony facets of citrus, sharpens these notes, enhancing freshness and longevity. Orange blossom and hyacinth bring soft, dewy florals, while angelica adds a subtle earthy spiciness, and calamus, with its root-like, slightly peppery aroma, grounds the top notes with understated warmth.

As the heart unfolds, the fragrance reveals a lush floral tapestry intertwined with aromatic green herbs and spices. Heliotropin (heliotrope) provides a gentle almond-like sweetness, a powdery warmth that contrasts with the cassie (acacia) flowers, lending honeyed, slightly balsamic richness. Clary sage and verbena infuse the composition with a green, aromatic crispness, while rosemary brings a sharp, almost medicinal freshness. The rose geranium, with its slightly minty, fresh rose quality, blends seamlessly with Bulgarian rose, celebrated for its deep, opulent floral aroma, to provide a rich, romantic core. Jasmine and tuberose add creamy, heady floral intensity, their sensuality tempered by the powdery elegance of orris root. A whisper of nutmeg spices the florals, creating a gentle warmth that bridges the mid-notes to the base, enhancing complexity.

The base is a sumptuous fusion of woods, resins, musks, and precious animalic accents, enveloping the wearer in an opulent trail. Olibanum (frankincense) introduces dry, resinous depth, mingling with the warmth of clove. Cedarwood and sandalwood offer creamy, woody stability, while tonka bean and coumarin—the latter a synthetic molecule that replicates the sweet hay-like aroma of tonka—add gourmand warmth. Musk, civet, and castoreum lend animalic richness, imbuing the fragrance with sensuality and persistence. Safrole and labdanum contribute balsamic, slightly smoky layers, complementing oakmoss, which gives the scent its characteristic chypre earthiness. Vetiver and vetiveryl acetate provide smoky, woody depth; the latter, a synthetic enhancement, heightens the long-lasting, smooth facets of natural vetiver. Patchouli, ambergris, and ambreine add exotic, resinous sweetness, while vanilla balances the composition with gentle warmth and creaminess. Together, these elements create a fragrance that is both opulent and complex, a true oriental floral chypre, where the interplay of natural materials and carefully chosen aroma chemicals creates a composition of extraordinary depth, longevity, and sophistication.

This Guerlain Chypre exemplifies how a perfume can layer freshness, floral opulence, spice, and deep sensuality, offering a multisensory journey from the sparkling citrus of the top to the velvety, animalic-woody richness of the base—a fragrance that feels simultaneously timeless and luxurious.

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon and the Goutte flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The exact date when Chypre by Guerlain was discontinued remains unknown, though records confirm that it was still available as late as 1953. This longevity speaks to the enduring appeal of the fragrance, which had established itself as a benchmark for complex, opulent oriental floral compositions. Over the decades, Chypre maintained relevance despite shifting trends in perfumery, a testament to its sophisticated layering of citrus, florals, spices, and rich base notes.

For more than a century, Guerlain’s Chypre continued to exemplify the house’s commitment to elegance and artistry, offering a fragrance that balanced bright top notes with a sumptuous floral heart and a warm, sensual base. Its continued presence in the market into the early 1950s underscores the lasting impact of Jacques Guerlain’s vision, even as newer fragrance styles and synthetic materials began to reshape the industry. Though it eventually disappeared from commercial circulation, Chypre’s influence persisted, inspiring both contemporaneous and future interpretations of the chypre family.

Poudre Superdulci c1912

Created in 1912 by Guerlain, Poudre Super Dulci was a luxurious face powder delicately perfumed with the house’s romantic fragrance Après L’Ondée. At a time when perfumed cosmetics were a mark of refinement, this powder embodied both elegance and innovation, offering women not only a cosmetic finish but also the lingering scent of one of Guerlain’s most poetic creations.

The powder was presented in an octagonal cardboard box, wrapped in richly printed polychrome paper. The decoration evoked Chinese motifs, reflecting the fascination with the Chinoiserie style that was popular in the early 20th century, when exoticism and Orientalist influences were highly fashionable in European art and design. The octagonal form itself set it apart from more common round or square powder boxes, underscoring its exclusivity and the care Guerlain devoted to presentation.

Although first launched in the 1910s, evidence suggests that Poudre Super Dulci remained available well into the mid-20th century, with references indicating it could still be purchased around 1949. This longevity speaks to both its enduring popularity and Guerlain’s ability to blend cosmetic function with olfactory pleasure, turning a simple face powder into a true object of beauty and desire.

 

Lait de Perles

Lait de Perles (Pearl Milk) was a popular 19th- and early 20th-century skin preparation marketed as a “bleaching” or lightening lotion, part of a wider beauty trend that prized pale, even-toned complexions. Its formula relied on a suspension of powders in water, creating a milky appearance that inspired its name.

The later formulas commonly contained zinc oxide, a white mineral powder long used for its covering power and soothing qualities; it acted as a mild sunblock and gave the skin a temporary whitened appearance. Rose water lent fragrance while also offering a gentle astringent effect, prized for its cooling, refreshing touch. Bismuth oxychloride, a shimmering white powder, imparted a pearly sheen and helped disguise imperfections. Magnesic carbonate and talc added bulk, softness, and absorbency, mattifying the skin. The mixture was perfumed with otto of roses (rose essential oil), giving the cosmetic both a luxurious scent and an air of refinement.

Older recipes were far less benign. They included carbonate of white lead, a highly toxic compound once widely used in face powders and creams for its intense whitening effect. While it gave the skin a smooth porcelain appearance, lead compounds absorbed through the skin could cause serious cumulative health issues, including poisoning—though such dangers were not well understood at the time. The inclusion of geranium essence alongside rosewater and rose oil was meant to heighten the floral fragrance while masking the raw mineral smell of the base powders.

For its era, Lait de Perles was typical of beauty products promising fairness and refinement. The use of whitening powders, sometimes toxic, was common practice, reflecting the cultural association of pale skin with youth, purity, and social status. While the later formula with zinc oxide, bismuth, and talc was relatively safer, the earlier reliance on lead-based compounds reveals the lengths to which cosmetic makers and users of the 19th century went in their pursuit of beauty.

Lotion de Guerlain c1850

Lotion de Guerlain, created in 1850, was a skin-bleaching cream reflecting the beauty ideals and cosmetic practices of the mid-19th century. Its formulation included several active ingredients that were considered effective at the time for lightening and smoothing the complexion, though some would be regarded as hazardous by modern standards.

The cream contained Extract de Saturne, which was a solution of lead subacetate. Lead compounds were widely used in cosmetics during this era for their perceived ability to lighten and whiten skin, as they could reduce pigmentation and create a smooth, porcelain-like appearance. However, we now know that lead is highly toxic, and prolonged use can result in lead poisoning, skin irritation, and long-term health consequences. Despite its dangers, it was a common cosmetic ingredient in the 18th and 19th centuries, used in powders, creams, and paints.

Another ingredient was tincture of benzoin, a resin derived from trees of the genus Styrax. Benzoin has a sweet, warm aroma and was believed to have soothing and antiseptic properties for the skin. It also helped to preserve the formulation and provide a subtle fragrance.

The formula also included distilled waters of laurel, cherry, and peach, which were botanical infusions providing gentle astringent and moisturizing effects. Laurel water could help tighten and tone the skin, while cherry and peach waters offered mild soothing and hydrating qualities, adding a touch of natural fragrance.

In context, Lotion de Guerlain was considered a luxury cosmetic, combining both functional skin-lightening effects and the refinement of subtle fragrances. While the botanical elements were safe and beneficial, the use of lead subacetate would make this product hazardous by modern standards. It is an example of how 19th-century beauty practices balanced perceived efficacy, scent, and elegance, often at the expense of safety.

Lotion de Guerlain was presented in a cream or unguent form and housed in a compact, elegantly designed jar, reminiscent of Guerlain’s celebrated Rose du Moulin rouge container, though in this case made of colorless glass rather than emerald green. The cylindrical jar features a grooved base, while the molded lid is adorned with a radiating gadroon decoration, a motif characteristic of the Empire style, lending the piece an air of classical refinement and luxury.

Around the center of the base, a band paper label identifies the product, preserving the historic authenticity of the jar. Measuring 4.5 cm tall (approximately 1.77 inches), this small container was both practical and visually sophisticated, designed to sit gracefully on a vanity. The jar was produced by Pochet et du Courval, a renowned French glassmaker, ensuring high-quality pressed glass craftsmanship typical of early Guerlain cosmetic presentations. Its design reflects the 19th-century focus on elegance, utility, and collectible beauty in perfumery and cosmetics packaging.