Flacon Plat (Flat) c1890

The Flacon Plat, created around 1890, represents one of Guerlain’s early standardized bottles, employed for a wide range of perfumes. Produced by Pochet et du Courval in three moulds, it is a simple yet elegant colorless glass design, characterized by its flat form and fitted with a ground-glass, polylobed disk-shaped stopper. Its understated shape allowed the richly colored and decorative labels to take center stage, while still maintaining a refined, timeless silhouette suitable for Guerlain’s varied offerings.

The front of the bottle carries a large, polychromed paper label measuring 6.6cm by 3.6cm, which became the defining decorative feature of the design. The reverse side is molded with the distinctive femme drapeaux motif, a figure draped with banners, as well as the “HP” mark denoting Pochet et du Courval. Many of the labels associated with this bottle predate 1890, and examples can be found bearing Guerlain’s addresses at either 15 Rue de la Paix or later at 68 Avenue des Champs-Élysées. In addition to the main label affixed to the bottle, a secondary, smaller label with a curved lower edge was often placed on the wrapping papers, extending the decorative identity of the presentation.

The presentation box further reinforced the house style, with its interior featuring another large label in the same polychrome tones as those found on the bottles. This cohesive approach created an impression of richness and visual continuity, making the Flacon Plat a versatile yet luxurious option.

The mould for the bottle was destroyed at the end of the 1950s, making it a design firmly rooted in Guerlain’s earlier history. Over its lifespan, it housed a wide selection of Guerlain fragrances, including Tsao Ko, Belle France, Dix Pétales de Roses, Cyprisine, Le Jardin de Mon Curé, Gavotte, Paris Nouveau, Violette à Deux Sous, Bouquet Mademoiselle, Grande Maréchale, Young Princess, and Rodomel. Today, bottles that survive with intact labels and original boxes offer a rare glimpse into Guerlain’s 19th-century visual and olfactory heritage.

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval produced three moulds:

• Mould #12606 = 15cc
• Mould #12607 = 30cc
• Mould #12608 = 80cc - 14cm

Bottles:

Scents:

• Belle France
• Bouquet Mademoiselle
• Cyprisine
• Dix Petales de Roses
• Gavotte
• Gracia
• Grande Marechale
• Le Jardin de Mon Cure
• Marquise D'Auberive
• Noesseri
• Ouridis
• Paris Nouveau
• Rodomel
• Senorita
• Toutes Fleurs
• Tsao Ko
• Ultra Fresca
• Violette a Deux Sous
• Violette de Parme
• Young Princess

Flacon Petit Beurre (Little Butter Pat) c1916 - ?

The Flacon Petit Beurre, introduced around 1916, is affectionately known as the “little butter pat” or the “biscuit-shaped” bottle because of its compact, square form and softly rounded edges, which resemble a small tea biscuit. This standard bottle was primarily distributed in the United States, where Guerlain often tailored presentations to suit American tastes. Each fragrance housed within the Petit Beurre flacon received its own specific labels and boxes, emphasizing Guerlain’s attention to detail and the importance of branding even for export markets. Over time, the bottle was used for an impressive range of Guerlain’s fragrances, including L’Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Rue de la Paix, Candide Effluve, A Travers Champs, Fol Arome, Quand Vient L’Été, Kadine, Guerlinade, Une Rose, Pour Troubler, Vague Souvenir, and Champs-Élysées.

Two glassmakers were responsible for producing this design: Baccarat originally in 1916, and later Pochet et du Courval in 1929. Baccarat’s version, catalogued as model #293, was made in very limited numbers. Guerlain ordered only 500 bottles in each of the 40cc and 80cc sizes in January 1916. These Baccarat bottles are notable for their smooth, flat polished bases, which lack the usual Baccarat logo. Inside, they also display a distinctive indentation, a detail documented in the Baccarat Perfume Bottles reference book. The smaller 40cc size measured 7.7 cm in height, while the 80cc offered a larger format. Both sizes are considered rare today, owing to their limited production.

The Pochet et du Courval interpretation of the Petit Beurre followed more than a decade later, in 1929, and was produced in larger quantities for broader distribution. The Pochet versions have bases that are slightly curved, in contrast to Baccarat’s flat design. These bases can be entirely smooth or molded with inscriptions such as “Guerlain – Paris – France – HP” or “Guerlain – Made in France – Paris France – HP.” Some also bear a number engraved by stylus, adding another layer of identification. Pochet’s mould #14421 was used to produce a 20 ml size bottle measuring 5.5 cm in height.

Altogether, the Petit Beurre flacon embodies both the rarity of Baccarat’s early limited runs and the more standardized, export-oriented production of Pochet et du Courval. Its enduring use across so many Guerlain perfumes underscores the bottle’s versatility and charm, making it a small but significant part of the house’s early 20th-century bottle repertoire.

Baccarat (model #293):

For the Baccarat bottle lacks its logo and has a smooth, flat polished base. Guerlain ordered 500 of the 40cc and 500 of the 80cc bottles in January 1916. This bottle has indentation on the interior, as shown in the Baccarat Perfume Bottles reference book.

• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 7.7cm/3.03" (limited edition of only 500 in 1916)
• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - (limited edition of only 500 in 1916)

Pochet et du Courval:

For the Pochet bottle, the base is slightly curved and is either smooth or molded with "Guerlain - Paris - France - HP" or "Guerlain - Made in France - Paris France - HP." Some bottles had a number engraved by stylus on the base.

• Mould #14421 = 20ml - 5.5cm (1929)

Bottles:

In the mid to late 1920s, the Flacon Beurre reappeared in a particularly striking presentation by Baccarat, created to coincide with the 1925 Paris Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. This relaunch gave the bottle a renewed prestige, linking it to the Art Deco movement at its peak. The flacon itself was adorned with a distinctive blue and silver foiled paper label, a design chosen to evoke the dazzling crystal fountain designed by René Lalique for the exposition’s Grand Pavilion. The fountain, with its play of light and water, became one of the fair’s iconic symbols, and Guerlain’s choice to reference it underscored both the house’s connection to cutting-edge French design and its position among the elite participants of the exposition.

The presentation box accompanying this edition was equally refined, echoing the crystal fountain motif with elegant repetition across its surfaces. This harmony of bottle, label, and box created a cohesive Art Deco statement—modern, luxurious, and unmistakably French. It is this 1925 Expo-inspired presentation that collectors most frequently encounter today when seeking out the Beurre flacon.

 

Another later version of the Beurre presentation emerged during the 1940s, when Guerlain repackaged the bottle with a box of entirely different character. This design featured red and gold coloring and floral patterns, offering a warmer, more traditional aesthetic than the sleek modernism of the earlier fountain motif. While not as strongly associated with the glamour of the 1925 exposition, the 1940s box reflects Guerlain’s adaptability in reinterpreting its designs for new audiences and changing times.

Scents:

• A Travers Champs
• Candide Effluve
• Champs Elysees
• Fol Arome
• Guerlinade
• Kadine
• L'Heure Bleue
• Mitsouko
• Pour Troubler
• Quand Vient L'Ete
• Rue de la Paix
• Une Rose
• Vague Souvenir

Flacon Persane (Persian) c1900

The Flacon Persane, introduced around 1900, is one of Guerlain’s most exceptional and rarest bottles. Created by Pochet et du Courval, it was originally conceived as the standard container for Guerlain’s hair lotions, though it was later also employed for certain eaux de cologne. Its design was inspired by a 17th-century Persian perfume flacon preserved in the Guerlain family collection, embodying the fascination with Orientalist motifs that influenced much of European decorative arts at the turn of the century.

The bottle features refined rumen cutting and a long, ringed neck, lending it both elegance and a sense of historical authenticity. Its flat-cut stopper was designed to echo the simplicity and restraint of antique vessels, balancing the elaborate neck treatment with clean, functional lines. The detailing reinforced Guerlain’s intention to link the bottle with an exotic past, while still presenting it as a luxurious modern object.

In terms of markings, the Flacon Persane carries several distinctive engravings: “Depose” is inscribed on the bottom front, the “HP” monogram for Pochet appears on the opposite side, and “Guerlain Paris” is engraved beneath the base. These features confirmed both its authenticity and its place within Guerlain’s prestigious production line. Pochet et du Courval produced only a single mould of this flacon, in the generous 250 ml size, emphasizing its specialized use rather than mass distribution.

The labeling system for the bottle was equally considered. Two labels accompanied each presentation: one affixed to the back identifying it as “lotion pour les cheveux,” and a second, more prominent label on the front displaying the name of the lotion’s perfume. This dual-label approach reflected Guerlain’s combination of practicality with refinement, ensuring that both the product type and its luxurious scent were immediately clear to the consumer.

Today, surviving examples of the Flacon Persane are exceedingly rare, highly prized by collectors for their craftsmanship, historic inspiration, and place in Guerlain’s lineage of early 20th-century flacons. Would you like me to also expand on how this bottle fits into Guerlain’s broader Orientalist design influences of the period?

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval created one mould:

• Mould #12088 = 250cc - 21 cm tall.

Bottles:

Scents:

• Ai Loe
• Apres L'Ondee
• Bon Vieux Temps
• Cananga
• Fleurs de Guildo
• Jardin du Roi
• Jicky
• Pao Rosa
• Rex
• Rue de la Paix
• Vere Novo

Flacon Parure c1975-1987

The Flacon Parure, created in 1975, was a strikingly modern design reserved exclusively for Guerlain’s perfume Parure. Conceived by Robert Granai, it was inspired by natural forms and imbued with a sculptural quality that set it apart from Guerlain’s more classical bottle repertoire. Its faceted oval body evoked the image of a river-worn pebble, polished smooth by the passage of time, while its base—a molded and titled black resin pedestal—gave the bottle a sense of weight and permanence, like a jewel mounted on a plinth.

The stopper, equally bold in conception, was crafted from blue-grey tinted glass. Shaped to resemble the wavy aura of the sun, it crowned the bottle with a luminous, celestial presence, reinforcing Granai’s theme of timeless elegance and natural harmony. Together, the pebble-like body and solar stopper conveyed both the solidity of the earth and the radiance of the sky, reflecting the perfume’s name, Parure—a word that suggests adornment, elegance, and completeness.

Production of the flacon was shared between two renowned French glassmakers: Pochet et du Courval produced seven moulds while Saint-Gobain Desjonquères produced one. Their combined expertise ensured the bottle’s precision of form and the clarity of its tinted stopper, hallmarks of Guerlain’s long-standing collaboration with the finest artisans.

The Parure bottle was manufactured only until spring 1987, after which it was discontinued. From September 1981, the fragrance continued to be sold in Guerlain’s standard 7.5 ml and 15 ml quadrilobe stopper bottles until the end of 1989, when Parure itself was withdrawn from production.

Today, the Flacon Parure stands as a testament to Guerlain’s innovative spirit during the 1970s, when the house embraced bold, sculptural designs that blended natural inspiration with modern luxury. Its unique form and short production span make it a particularly collectible piece within the Guerlain canon.

Sizes:

Pochet et du Courval:

• Mould #21153 = 2.3ml sample size, glass base (Mar 1975)
• Mould #21284 = 7.5ml/0.25 oz - 9cm/3.54" (1975-1981)
• Mould #21286 = 15ml/0.5 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (1975-1981) 
• Mould #21155 = 30ml/1 oz - 14.5cm/5.63", bottle without base and stuck to a black Bakelite stand with the "Guerlain" name. Base with engraving "Guerlain - Copyright 1974 - Bottle Made in France." (1975- 1987)
• Mould #21157 = 60ml/2 oz - 17cm/6.69" (1975-1985)
• Mould #21159 = 120cc/120ml/4.06 oz - 20.7cm/8.15", bottle without base and stuck to a black bakelite stand with the Guerlain name. Base engraved in white: "Guerlain - Copyright 1974 - Bottle Made in France." (1975-1980)
• Mould #21305 = 1290 ml - 42.5cm, large display (factice) bottle of yellow tinted glass, with ground glass stopper, the bottle has the black bakelite base.

Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres:

• Mould #4972 (plan 24673) = 15ml/0.5 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" with all-glass foot, base engraved with "Guerlain Paris Bottle Made in France SGD" (1979)

Bottles:

Flacon de Sac (Purse Bottle) /Parapluie Flacon (Umbrella Bottle) c1952-1978

The Flacon de Sac, also known as the Parapluie Flacon (Umbrella Bottle), was introduced by Guerlain around 1952 and remained in use until 1978. Designed as a portable, handbag-sized presentation, it provided a practical yet elegant way for clients to carry their favorite Guerlain extraits. The compact form made it ideal for travel or daily use, while its refined styling ensured it aligned with the house’s tradition of luxury.

The bottles themselves were produced in both round and oval bases, reflecting slight variations depending on the manufacturer. They rarely carried the signature mark of the glassworks, but some examples are inscribed with one of several possible legends: “Guerlain Paris,” “Guerlain Paris France,” or “Guerlain Bottle Made in France.” The flacons were topped with gold-colored screw caps, and from the neck hung a cord suspending a double-sided paper label, a detail that provided both branding and an element of charm.

Production of the purse bottles was shared by several renowned glass manufacturers, including Pochet et du Courval, Brosse, and Saint-Gobain Desjonquères. Over time, the presentation styles evolved. Early examples were housed in decorative boxes tailored to the identity of each perfume, while later versions omitted this extra packaging. For export to the United States, Guerlain adapted the format further by enclosing the bottle in a fitted leather case, underscoring its practicality as a true travel accessory.

The Flacon de Sac was employed for a wide range of Guerlain perfumes, among them Shalimar, Ode, L’Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Jasmin, Vega, Jicky, Sous le Vent, Chant d’Arômes, Chamade, Vol de Nuit, and Liu. Interestingly, despite its popularity, this bottle was never used for Nahema when the fragrance debuted in 1979, marking the end of its era.

Measuring 7.8 cm (3.07 in) and holding 7 cc (7 ml, or about 0.25 oz) of extrait, the Flacon de Sac represents a thoughtful fusion of practicality and refinement. Today, it is remembered as a charming example of Guerlain’s attention to how perfume could accompany a woman throughout her day—portable luxury in miniature form.

In 1954, the leather etui cases were introduced.

Sizes:

Produced by three glassworks: Pochet, Brosse and SGD:

• 7cc/7ml/0.237 oz - 7.8cm/3.07"

Bottles:

Flacon Opaline c1951 - 1956

The Flacon Opaline, (bulle de savon opaline) produced between 1951 and around 1956, stands out as one of Guerlain’s most distinctive and luxurious creations of the mid-20th century. Conceived by the Cristal et Bronze company and designed by the enamelist R. Noirot, who worked from 1948-1956, the bottle was inspired by the popular French opaline cologne bottles of the mid-19th century. Those Victorian bottles, with their milky opalescent surfaces, bronze mounts, and gilded ground-glass stoppers, were highly prized for their decorative elegance. Guerlain’s version captured this nostalgic charm while updating it with a modern touch, decorating the glass with delicately enameled butterflies that danced across its surface.

Cristal et Bronze, renowned for producing garnitures de toilette of exceptional refinement, executed the bottle with the same artisanal precision for which they were famous. Their work for Guerlain highlights the house’s dedication to elevating perfume presentation into the realm of decorative arts. The bottle’s silhouette and embellishment evoked a romantic, antique sensibility, making it both a container for fragrance and a collectible object in its own right. The design harmonized beautifully with Guerlain’s aura of timeless elegance, bridging Victorian inspiration with mid-century luxury.

The Flacon Opaline was not tied to a single scent but rather served as a versatile vessel for Guerlain’s most celebrated perfumes, including L’Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Mitsouko, Jicky, Ode, and Shalimar. In some instances, it even appeared without a fragrance name in the front cartouche, emphasizing its role as a universal luxury presentation. Available in three sizes—11.5 cm (4.53 in), 15.5 cm (6.1 in), and 18.5 cm (7.28 in)—the bottle offered variety for collectors and connoisseurs alike.

Although produced only for a short span, the Flacon Opaline is a testament to Guerlain’s postwar creativity and its willingness to collaborate with specialized artisans outside the traditional glassmakers like Baccarat or Pochet et du Courval. Today, it remains a rare and coveted example of Guerlain’s artistry, blending perfume heritage with the decorative elegance of French enamel and opaline traditions.

Sizes:

• 11.5cm/4.53"
• 15.5cm/6.1"
• 18.5cm/7.28"

Bottles:

Scents:

• Jicky 
• L’Heure Bleue
• Mitsouko
• Ode
• Shalimar
• Vol de Nuit

Flacon Noeud Papillon (Butterfly Knot) c1937-1956

The Flacon Noeud Papillon—literally the Butterfly Knot bottle—was created in 1937 to house Guerlain’s perfume Coque d’Or. Its distinctive form, modeled after a bow tie, was unlike anything Guerlain had previously commissioned and perfectly suited the fragrance’s name, which translates as “golden shell.” The design proved versatile enough to be reused in the 1940s and 1950s for other Guerlain extraits, including Kriss (1942–1945) and Dawamesk (from 1945 until about 1955). After June 1956, the bottle was no longer available, closing a unique chapter in Guerlain’s bottle history.

The bottle was made in both crystal and glass, with Baccarat credited as its primary creator. Identified as model #770, Baccarat manufactured five moulds, while Pochet et du Courval contributed two moulds, ensuring production could meet Guerlain’s needs. Notably, the bow-tie bottles were supplied unlacquered by the glassworks, meaning the brilliant cobalt blue versions—both plain and gilded—cannot be firmly attributed to a single perfume, even though they were used across several fragrances. The crystal versions were engraved at the factory with both the Baccarat trademark and their identification number. In contrast, the glass models were numbered only after they had been lacquered.

Collectors can distinguish between Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval examples through close attention to finish and markings. Baccarat bottles bear the acid-etched Baccarat trademark and are numbered with a stylus. Their stoppers can be either smooth or faceted. By comparison, bottles made by Pochet et du Courval initially featured smooth stoppers, but these were later modified to make opening easier. Instead of engraving, bottle and stopper were numbered in matte gold paint.

The Flacon Noeud Papillon remains one of Guerlain’s most iconic Art Deco bottles, admired for its elegance, ingenuity, and theatricality. Whether in cobalt glass or crystal, with or without gilding, it continues to capture the eye as a sculptural object that mirrors the glamour of its era.

Sizes:

Baccarat (smooth or faceted stoppers):

• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 5.5cm/2.17" 
• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 6.5cm/2.56 
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 7.5cm/2.95" 
• 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 8.5cm/3.35" 
• 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 10.5cm/4.13" 

Pochet et du Courval (smooth cap only):

• Mould #15455 = 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 5.5cm.2.17" 
• Mould #15385 = 82cc/82ml/2.77 oz - 6.6cm/2.6"

Bottles:

  

Scents:

• Champs Elysees
• Coque d'Or 
• Dawamesk
• Kriss

Presentation Box:

The presentation box for the Flacon Noeud Papillon was as striking and innovative as the bottle itself, conceived by the celebrated French decorator Jean-Michel Frank. Frank, who was responsible for the décor of Guerlain’s perfume shops with his signature trompe l’oeil effects, extended his refined aesthetic sensibility to this luxurious packaging. The box was constructed from poplar wood, but its surface was covered with a thin layer of plaster worked to imitate the effect of limed wood, giving it a subtly textured and elegant finish. This understated, modernist exterior provided a sophisticated counterpoint to the exuberant bow-tie form of the bottle within.

The box was fitted with a long hinge that allowed it to open smoothly, and many examples also feature a brass fastener to secure the lid. Inside, the bottle rested against a carefully cut white card insert, which held it snugly in place and ensured the presentation remained visually crisp and uncluttered. For export markets, an even more ingenious feature was introduced: a metal support system designed to lift the bottle as the box was opened. This thoughtful addition not only enhanced the presentation but also made removing the heavy glass or crystal bottle far easier for the user.

As with the bottle itself, the Noeud Papillon box reflected Guerlain’s commitment to artistry and luxury in every detail. Marrying Frank’s minimalist refinement with the theatrical glamour of the bow-tie design, the presentation achieved a perfect balance of modern French design and perfume-world fantasy. Today, surviving examples of these boxes are prized by collectors not only for their rarity but also as works of decorative art in their own right.